"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 May 2019 15:28:15 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
On my lathe that part is a hunk of steel some trade school student
hogged out to replace the missing original. I filed and block-sanded
it until the end mill marks were the same degree of barely visible
all
over.

Yeah, it's amazing what you can do with simple hand tools with a bit
of
training, thought and wana-get-it-done attitude

A guide pin or two for that part on my lathe would help a lot. Or so
I
think it would. If I was moving it often I would probably work on it
some more. The real solution for slick operation would be Steve's
mod:

http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20camlock.html

or something similar.

There are only a few days a year that I can comfortably work on it
or
with it. Most of the time I end up taking care of stuff that just
won't
wait any longer...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


Here's something similar that requires no change to the tailstock. I
made adjustable cam lock clamps for a sheetmetal brake using this type
of fixture bolt:
http://valtrainc.com/products/jlb.php

The cam is 1.250" drill rod, cut about 3x the thickness of the bolt
eye long, and cross-drilled 0.050" off center for the pivot pin. The
bolt eye fits into a slot milled across the center of the cam, with
enough D-shaped thickness left below the slot, connecting the round
sides, to drill and tap for the operating handle.

On the brake the handle can swing all the way around to run the bolt
threads in or out for coarse adjustment to sheetmetal thickness. Since
it would have limited rotation on the tailstock you might need a thumb
nut underneath to adjust the tension. It can be tightened either by
rocking the handle down toward the thicker side of the cam or rotating
it to screw the bolt tighter, or both.

The feed clutch cam on my South Bend is a very similar design.
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ob-mod-129974/