"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-05-18, Leon Fisk wrote:
On 18 May 2019 01:27:57 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

snip
The original design was a lever and cam to pull up the nut, but
that is not with mine (lost before I got the tailstock) and no
longer
stocked by Clausing last I asked. So, I have a slip-on hex wrench
made
for a Logan, with a long hex nut, with the center of the hex turned
to a
cylinder so I can pull the wrench up a bit and slip it to the next
teeth
in the socket. (No, I can't get to the back easily enough to
switch the
ratchet direction on your inexpensive wrenches. Maybe I can make a
remote for the reverse switch and then use your wrench type for the
task.

One of Jim's good ideas (thanks, knowledge is good!) got me to
thinking
I'd seen cammed bolts used on bicycle wheels and seat posts... On a
hunch I searched McMaster and found these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#cams/=ae27...08aabejvttr64k

If the link doesn't work (McMaster links are always iffy) search on
"cams" then "clamping handles". You might want to look through
these if
you still want to fix your tailstock. Might get lucky and spot a
version that would work

As predicted -- the link did not work. They are of short
duration, I think -- generated after your search -- and sent away
sometime after you leave the side. :-)

And my older Firefox was having problems (with lots of security
stuff enabled), so I went to a linux-based one and managed to find
what
you were talking about.

Looking at them -- most of them are too small (max 3/8" thread
and mine needs a 1/2-13 thread), and would be really difficult to
feed
into the hole. The original (still have the bolt) had a carriage
bolt
head for anti-rotation under the locking plate, and the thread
passed up
into the tailstock -- a cavity between the plate and the housing for
the
ram. The lever went around that and passed into a hinged plate on
top
of the lever, and a nut went on top of that all to adjust where the
lever actually locked the carriage.

The only ones big enough (the "heavy duty" ones) either have a
long threaded stud sticking down (I would have to put a nut on under
the
plate -- which is quite difficult to get to -- and a real pain to
remove
again when the time comes to swap in the bed turret for the
tailstock.

The lever appears to have to stick straight up for maximum
clamping (no room given the barrel the ram runs in). Sort of a
crowded
room between the barrel and the carriage plate.

I have one without the stud -- which I would have to spend some
hours grinding to the right profile (a fairly short travel of the
lever
from locked to loose), and make a guide for the screw and a thrust
surface on the top for the nut to bear on. The one without the stud
came from MSC a number of years ago. At least it is a start on the
size
needed.

I may someday do that.

For yours, what about making something to fit in the other end
which is hex of the right size for the wrench and has an extension
also
hex (or square if so needed) to fit the carriage lock -- and if
necessary, Loctite it into the hex socket in the wrench. That way,
one
wrench for both jobs.

The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny little
M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious
look at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a cam
lock of some sort...

M6 is rather small -- and that wrench would make it easy to
wring off the head.

Maybe turn your own screw for it -- with a flange below the hex
so you could rest the wrench on it -- and a hex large enough for a
smaller version of the ratchet wrench.

Good Luck,
DoN.


A "ferry head" bolt like this might work:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10467
The extra points should help keep a 5/16" or 8mm box end wrench from
falling off.