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Jim Wilkins[_2_] Jim Wilkins[_2_] is offline
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:56:19 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
You might try facing the bolt head and nut bearing surfaces square
with the shank and threads to see if that makes the tailstock lock
and
release with less rotation.

My lathe's tailstock was refitted with a 1/2-13 bolt that clamps
tight
(enough) or fully releases in 1/8 of a turn. I found an old wrench
like this and made a hex nut+washer that is 0.80" across the flats
to
fit it.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183811511075?chn=ps


I'm sure that wouldn't make it any worse but the main problem is
part
#1021 rocks around, sloppy below the bed. So if you loosen the bolt
slightly (actually the nut I see) and then try to move the tailstock
it
jams up by going a little cockeyed. The spring I put above #1021
helped
by keeping some downward pressure on it.

https://i.postimg.cc/k57CcpQD/tailstock-parts.jpg

For what I do with it the ratchet wrench and spring combo works good
enough

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


On my lathe that part is a hunk of steel some trade school student
hogged out to replace the missing original. I filed and block-sanded
it until the end mill marks were the same degree of barely visible all
over.

I've fitted two surfaces I couldn't machine, a 5HP gas engine and its
welding-warped mounting plate on my log splitter, by marking the high
spot contacts by pulling sandpaper through and grinding the scratches
off with an angle grinder, then filing as the fit improved. I stopped
when a feeler gauge 0.003" thick (IIRC) wouldn't go into the open
corner, because the offset weight of the engine was interfering with a
delicate feel.