I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 6:53:34 PM UTC-7, John Doe wrote:
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).


I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

You should learn about standard machine tools and what they can do.
Either a lathe or a surface grinder could handle that. The cheaper way
would be a small chop saw, or anneal it, saw it and reharden. If you
weren't as irascible and hostile as Bonkers I might be more helpful.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary
tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

I made my first one from a copper pipe cap that fit the end of the
Dremel closely.

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 7:33:52 PM UTC-7, Anonymous posting pussy "John Doe" showed us he knows jack **** about machining and that he's a very poor learner.

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 23:30:41 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

You should learn about standard machine tools and what they can do.
Either a lathe or a surface grinder could handle that. The cheaper way
would be a small chop saw, or anneal it, saw it and reharden. If you
weren't as irascible and hostile as Bonkers I might be more helpful.

It would likely be cheaper to buy the socket made for the job - sounds
like you are trying to make a sensor socket???

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 23:37:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary
tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

I made my first one from a copper pipe cap that fit the end of the
Dremel closely.


I made mine from a chunk of Delrin - drilled a hole to fit my
handpiece, and another to fit on my compound toolholder post.

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 8:30:34 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"John Doe" wrote in message
...
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

You should learn about standard machine tools and what they can do.
Either a lathe or a surface grinder could handle that. The cheaper way
would be a small chop saw, or anneal it, saw it and reharden. If you
weren't as irascible and hostile as Bonkers I might be more helpful.

Keep helping him, Jim. Give him as much time as you have.

One day you might get a clue but it's not going to be anytime soon.

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 00:40:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 23:37:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary
tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

I made my first one from a copper pipe cap that fit the end of the
Dremel closely.


I made mine from a chunk of Delrin - drilled a hole to fit my
handpiece, and another to fit on my compound toolholder post.

Mine is PVC, and I have another one that fits my ancient B&D die
grinder.

It sounds like every home-shop machinist has had the same idea.

--
Ed Huntress

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8ZdzUvgOnY

That's the idea.

Maybe the rotary tool can be on a simple pivot that accurately/steadily
lowers it down onto the slowly spinning workpiece, aligned with the
slowly spinning workpiece.






I wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a
slot into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off wheel (or other attachment).

wrote:

It would likely be cheaper to buy the socket made for the job - sounds
like you are trying to make a sensor socket???

I'm upgrading the front sprocket connection for my next electric bike.
Using a roughly 3/8 inch slice of 1/2 inch drive 1 1/4 inch socket.

I would post a picture, but currently it isn't anything but the uncut
socket. Not 100% sure that it will work, but it's an elegant design.
And I can use the rotary tool slicer for other things too.

wrote:
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

And it works extremely well for light work . Use foil , rags , newspaper or
something to keep the grinding grit off the ways . Your lathe will thank you
..

--
Snag

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 19:10:32 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 6:53:34 PM UTC-7, John Doe wrote:
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).


I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

Hey, that's a great suggestion, Jon. John is lacking a $500 hobby
lathe that would easily do the job, and you recommend a $5,000 spin
fixture. Great thinking!

--
Ed Huntress

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
wrote:

It would likely be cheaper to buy the socket made for the job -
sounds
like you are trying to make a sensor socket???

I'm upgrading the front sprocket connection for my next electric
bike.
Using a roughly 3/8 inch slice of 1/2 inch drive 1 1/4 inch socket.

I would post a picture, but currently it isn't anything but the
uncut
socket. Not 100% sure that it will work, but it's an elegant design.
And I can use the rotary tool slicer for other things too.

A suitable inexpensive tool is out there if you have the imagination
to adapt it to your use.

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 4:02:46 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, a lying fraud and worthless ad copy writer for pay for play advertising based machining magazines, failed:

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

There is a difference between appreciating a tool and being able to justify buying it. Hard to justify that expense when doing recreational metalworking.

Dan

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 9:53:34 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

Not sure of exactly how you want to cut the socket. But I have made Vee blocks out of wood and think you could make a rotary tool add on out of wood that would do what needs to be done.

Pallets are often made of oak which works well.

Of course if you have a table saw to make the add on, you can probably mount an abrasive disk on the table saw and cut with that.

Dan

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 07:30:11 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:


I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 4:02:46 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, a lying fraud and worthless ad copy writer for pay for play advertising based machining magazines, failed:


Jonny Bonkers, an emotionally disturbed nutcase whose identity is
based on a LinkedIn Group for which he is paid nothing and couldn't
be, because he's never written anything worth paying for, bloviated,
turned tail, and ran...and missed the point, as he is wont to do.

The point you missed, Jonny, is that your disdain for this group has
been noted, "the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can
really appreciate...," as has your need to remind everyone that you're
really slumming here on a recreational newsgroup, which you have
claimed is just for "losers," with you being a professional that no
one in this group "can really appreciate."

On the very last point, there's a grain of truth in the way you said
it, if not in what you intended. At least, a sometime professional.
Often, for a couple of months at a time, apparently. And you are not
appreciated, at least for the legend in your own mind.

--
Ed Huntress

wrote in message
...
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 9:53:34 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to
cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

Not sure of exactly how you want to cut the socket. But I have made
Vee blocks out of wood and think you could make a rotary tool add
on out of wood that would do what needs to be done.

Pallets are often made of oak which works well.

Of course if you have a table saw to make the add on, you can
probably mount an abrasive disk on the table saw and cut with that.

Dan

I've been waiting to see if he was clever enough to figure that out
for himself.

Now that you've revealed it, there's lots to go wrong, like igniting
sawdust and ruining the saw and motor bearings with grit. I run mine
at around 1800 RPM with a small motor that will lift to slip the belt
when the disk jams. I've shattered a cutoff wheel on my surface
grinder and don't need a repeat performance while I'm standing in the
fragments' flight path.

-jsw

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 7:55:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

There is a difference between appreciating a tool and being able to justify buying it. Hard to justify that expense when doing recreational metalworking.

Dan

Right but it's important to know what a quality tool for this kind of job is and either find an alternative or learn to make one.

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 9:45:06 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, the liar and fraud, who has zero modern, current, CNC machine shop experience, failed miserably:

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 7:55:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

There is a difference between appreciating a tool and being able to justify buying it. Hard to justify that expense when doing recreational metalworking.

Dan

When I worked at Central Tool and Machine in Bridgeport Connecticut we use to make this kind of tool. I was hoping the idiot might get some ideas from what I posted but I don't believe that will happen. I think I still have the prints for the tool and how to make it but I would never share them with this asshole. I have shared them in the past with others who have made their own. From what I can tell it's way above his very limited skill set. He's an anonymous posting pussy for a reason.

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 09:55:41 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 9:45:06 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, the liar and fraud, who has zero modern, current, CNC machine shop experience, failed miserably:

Actually, no, it successfully got the point across. Bonkers, on the
other hand, who aspires to write but who can't stop admiring his own
gaze in a mirror long enough to do so, crapped out once again.

Maybe you need some more of that vegetable juice you used to make. Or
are you using your juicer for a milling machine these days?

--
Ed Huntress

wrote in message
...
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can
really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with
side jobs I've done with it.

There is a difference between appreciating a tool and being able to
justify buying it. Hard to justify that expense when doing
recreational metalworking.

Dan

I looked into surface grinder accessories like punch formers and
radius dressers so I'd recognize a good one at an auction, but still
couldn't justify one for the mostly computer and microwave prototype
machining work I did.
http://www.shars.com/punch-former-radius-dresser

Sometimes it's better to contract out a one-time job and spend
valuable time on other parts of the project.

-jsw

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:47:43 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
Now that you've revealed it, there's lots to go wrong, like igniting
sawdust and ruining the saw and motor bearings with grit. I run mine
at around 1800 RPM with a small motor that will lift to slip the belt
when the disk jams. I've shattered a cutoff wheel on my surface
grinder and don't need a repeat performance while I'm standing in the
fragments' flight path.

Harbor Freight has a little 6.5 inch and a 2 inch cutoff saw:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-55...saw-61659.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mi...saw-61900.html

and they sell a guard to go on/with their small angle grinders that you
could use like a table saw. Clamp your angle grinder in something
upside down:

http://www.harborfreight.com/safety-...ers-61680.html

Lotsa of ways to get-it-done...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

wrote
John Doe wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to
cut a slot into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off wheel (or other attachment).

Not sure of exactly how you want to cut the socket. But I have made
Vee blocks out of wood and think you could make a rotary tool add
on out of wood that would do what needs to be done.

Pallets are often made of oak which works well.

Of course if you have a table saw to make the add on, you can
probably mount an abrasive disk on the table saw and cut with that.

I've been waiting to see if he was clever enough to figure that out
for himself.

One reason lathes are precise is because they spin the workpiece. I
often make precise cuts by spinning the workpiece slowly while using a
rotary tool to make the cut. Besides the accurate cut by spinning the
workpiece, rotary tool cut off wheels are thin so they waste less
material.

Given a half decent way of neatly spinning the workpiece, all I need is
a way to steadily move the rotary tool into the metal. I think that can
be accomplished with a simple pivot point like scissors use. Maybe using
aluminum flat bar (since that's in abundance here). The working end/side
of the arm can be short, maybe 3 inches.

I'm not getting any younger, and wasting cut off wheels and material is
pointless anyway when a rotary tool holder is bound to be easy enough to
construct. It will be especially useful for accurately chopping a 1 1/4
inch hard steel socket. I can do it by hand, but I'd rather not.

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 10:26:10 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, the lying fraud, failed again.

As explained in a follow-up post, a simple cutoff saw isn't the answer.

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 10:55:02 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 10:26:10 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, the lying fraud, failed again.

Ha-ha! Bonkers must have a one-pint fuel tank these days. g

--
Ed Huntress

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 18:13:44 +0000 (UTC)
John Doe wrote:

As explained in a follow-up post, a simple cutoff saw isn't the answer.

The problem is we don't know what you have tool wise or are willing to
buy...

When I want to do something like your request I go through the
possibilities in my head based on the tools I have access to. I also
consider things that I could purchase and would stay with my comfort
zone budget wise.

You could put your item in drill and pretend the drill was a lathe.
Lots of slop but it would work for low precision stuff. Or mount your
rotary tool to a board and then push that assembly with the miter
block on your table saw.

Dremel sells a little drill press adapter for their rotary
tools:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...spx?pid=220-01

Or maybe the shaper/router table:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...l.aspx?pid=231

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 11:23:52 AM UTC-7, slow eddy the fraud, lied:

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a
slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut
off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

For free hand work I've found that its handy to clamp a rotary handpiece in
the vise sometimes.

For the OP a drill press or a mill with slitting saw would work. Clamp the
socket in a vise on the table slide it around (drill press) or turn the
handles (mill). On a cheap drill press that you don't care about getting a
little grit in you could use an abbrassive blade to do the job.

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:09:51 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 11:23:52 AM UTC-7, slow eddy the fraud, lied:

....bonkers runs dry again, posts message to himself...

--
Ed Huntress

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 1:52:14 PM UTC-7, slow eddy, the liar and the fraud, proves once again why he's still my bitch:

:)

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:09:51 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 11:23:52 AM UTC-7, slow eddy the fraud, lied:

....but his float bowl holds enough to keep him coughing along for a
while...

--
Ed Huntress

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 14:06:10 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 1:52:14 PM UTC-7, slow eddy, the liar and the fraud, proves once again why he's still my bitch:

Looking in the mirror again, eh, Jonny? I don't think it gets any
better from just staring at it.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:09:51 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 11:23:52 AM UTC-7, slow eddy the fraud,
lied:

...but his float bowl holds enough to keep him coughing along for a
while...


Is this just a game, Ed? I mean, you know he's a no-account, and the
only machine shops he's ever been in, he's been thrown out of bodily!

He has no other occupation except cruising the internet and abusing
people who either hobby in, or actually make a living doing machining,
while all his machining experiences (if he ever had any at all) were
decades in the past, before he started physically abusing women and
getting thrown out of businesses!

Is it really worth it? Or is is just for fun? Pitiful is pitiful, and
Little silly Jonny Bonkers is about as pitiful as a human can get and
still draw breath!

LLoyd

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
As explained in a follow-up post, a simple cutoff saw isn't the
answer.

It isn't the answer for you, perhaps. I typically can cut square
within 0.005" per 1" of cross-section by carefully squaring the
workholding vise to the cutoff wheel or bandsaw blade. The incentive
to get it close is my surface grinder which removes only 1 - 2
thousandths per pass, so I know immediately how far off square the cut
was when I clean it up.

-jsw

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 16:39:30 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:09:51 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 11:23:52 AM UTC-7, slow eddy the fraud,
lied:

...but his float bowl holds enough to keep him coughing along for a
while...


Is this just a game, Ed? I mean, you know he's a no-account, and the
only machine shops he's ever been in, he's been thrown out of bodily!

He has no other occupation except cruising the internet and abusing
people who either hobby in, or actually make a living doing machining,
while all his machining experiences (if he ever had any at all) were
decades in the past, before he started physically abusing women and
getting thrown out of businesses!

Is it really worth it? Or is is just for fun? Pitiful is pitiful, and
Little silly Jonny Bonkers is about as pitiful as a human can get and
still draw breath!

LLoyd

Good points, and a very good question. I'm not sure I have a clear or
satisfying answer.

Early this year Dan asked me to ignore him, which I did for several
months. Bonkers' slurs and slander during that time were directed
mostly at me, and without any pushback, they became more elaborate and
frequent.

I have a pretty good tolerance, but they started coming every couple
of days. It was a pack of lies, but, unless one followed this NG for
years, they might not know that.

It's also true that Bonkers' posts seem to become shorter when he's
pushed back. That, in itself, is a small blessing. g

He's such a simpleton that responding to his slurs is either very easy
or very satisfying, or both. g I withhold a lot of what I know about
him because I don't believe in really intruding in people's lives as a
result of Internet conflicts. I was angry at Gunner for posting some
info I had on Jon Ball, for example, because I passed it on to him
only so he could follow Ball's numerous nym-shifts. Posting private,
very personal info is over the line, AFAIC. Easily searchable public
info is anoher matter.

I learned months ago that ignoring him is not the answer. He just runs
rampant if I do. He's fallen into such a flabby sing-song lately that
it's all just annoying, but he'll surely start with the hard-core
slander again if I don't slap him down.

So I hope you can just ignore it. I don't like cluttering up the NG
with this stuff, but I like even less being called a liar and a fraud.
That's just Bonkers projecting his own self onto others, but he can't
seem to stop. He even starts new threads with slander about me --
something he's done for years.

--
Ed Huntress