Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal

"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal

Making an accurate 45 degree cut is really no harder than making an accurate
90 degree cut. What exactly is the problem that you are having? What saw
are you using?

Hi Leon my problem is fitting the material together because of the poor
grade wood I am using.I thought there might be some profession tricks I
might use.
Sal
"Leon" wrote in message
...

"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce.
I love making sawdust.

Sal

Making an accurate 45 degree cut is really no harder than making an
accurate 90 degree cut. What exactly is the problem that you are having?
What saw are you using?

sal wrote:
Hi Leon my problem is fitting the material together because of the poor
grade wood I am using.I thought there might be some profession tricks I
might use.
....

Again, what are you using to make the cuts? Blade choice is important,
too, of course.

If the material is construction-grade lumber that isn't fully dry, it'll
almost certainly shrink when it dries and any 45 will open up anyway
though...

--

"sal" wrote in message
...
Hi Leon my problem is fitting the material together because of the poor
grade wood I am using.I thought there might be some profession tricks I
might use.
Sal

I don't understand. You want to make an accurate 45 deg cut, but they don't
match because of the poor grade of wood? If the cut is accurate it will fit
no matter the grade of wood.

You need either a good miter box, a good miter saw or an accurate square.
What are you doing now? The only professional trick is to have both cuts
accurate.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
....
I don't understand. You want to make an accurate 45 deg cut, but they don't
match because of the poor grade of wood? If the cut is accurate it will fit
no matter the grade of wood.
....

/Crystalballmodeon...

Perhaps the problem is there isn't a good straight edge so the miter box
or saw doesn't have a consistent registering edge???

/Crystalballmodeoff

--

dpb wrote in :

Perhaps the problem is there isn't a good straight edge so the miter box
or saw doesn't have a consistent registering edge???


That would be my guess too.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Sep 7, 7:02*am, "sal" wrote:
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts *that actually fit
together nicely? I *was building an deck and have some *herringbone and
mitered *joints that were an devil to do , using *number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal

Go to an art supply store and pick up a drafting square, and us this
to make a jig assuming you are using a circular saw. Place the jig on
the wood and use this to guide the saw

Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce.
I love making sawdust.


From What I have read:

It has to do with the force from the blade, how it cuts the kerf, and how
the wood is supported (or secured from movement.)

The force of the motor is way more than you can hold with your hand the
wood against movement. A 90 degree crosscut usually has a lot of support
by the geometry of the cut which prevents wood movement. However a 45
degree cut as a lot a force working to shift the wood due to the blade.
Vector math, resultant forces, and all that.

Step 1, therefore is to check and double check that the wood is secured
in such a way as to prevent the wood from movement during the cut. Stop
blocks do work well in this case.

Several very well written articles in Shopsmith magazine over the years
on this subject. And I believe in the results of the jigs I have built
from Shopsmith to overcome this 45 degree gap problem.

"sal" wrote:

Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually
fit together nicely? I was building an deck and have some
herringbone and mitered joints that were an devil to do , using
number 2 grade spruce. I love making sawdust.


You can't get there from here, the lumber will get you.

Make a perfect fit on day 1, buy day 5 it will be gone.

Lew

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"sal" wrote in message
...
Hi Leon my problem is fitting the material together because of the poor
grade wood I am using.I thought there might be some profession tricks I
might use.
Sal

I don't understand. You want to make an accurate 45 deg cut, but they don't
match because of the poor grade of wood? If the cut is accurate it will fit
no matter the grade of wood.

You need either a good miter box, a good miter saw or an accurate square.
What are you doing now? The only professional trick is to have both cuts
accurate.

Not really. On a table saw, use two miter guides set to 45, one on
each side of the blade. Make one cut on one side, then make the mating
cut from the other side. Even if you don't have exactly 45, the two
cuts will be complementary and join perfectly.

Same thing on a radial saw, except the blade is set to 90 and you
build a jig that holds the work piece at 45 on either side.

You never explained what the problem is. It is a common carpenter
"trick" to backcut all miters so that just the top finish surfaces
comes together. The amount of backcut is really small, I would
guess about 1 degree. On trim work, setting the piece up on a
nail close to the blade gives about the right relief.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that
actually fit together nicely? I was building an deck and have
some herringbone and mitered joints that were an devil to do ,
using number 2 grade spruce. I love making sawdust.

Sal

Thanks for all the help , much appreciated.

Sal

"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal

On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 13:06:21 -0400, Richard Evans
wrote:

Even if you don't have exactly 45, the two
cuts will be complementary and join perfectly.

Incorrect. The two surfaces may meet but the resulting angle of the
two boards will not be 90 degrees unless the cut is exactly 45
degrees. The OP implied he needs the resulting angle to be 90
degrees.

G.S.

"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal


One last thing to consider. If you are trying to come up with a particular
angle and the boards do not intersect at the correct angle the cuts will
never fit.
Often a novice when trying to make a square frame with 45 degree mitered
cuts one of the joints will not close properly. This is because either the
opposite sides are not perfectly parallel or the opposite sides are not
exactly the same length.

sal wrote:
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely?

Cut them at exactly 45 degrees. G
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Make my maek and line using a speed square, then I place the saw on the mark
and set the spped square next to it as a guide.

If you keep a good grip on the square and wood and mark sure to guide the
saw with the square you will make a cut as good as if you had a power miter
saw.




"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal

sal wrote:
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually
fit together nicely?

Build a sled.

Lew

Sal,

I believe that Jay is referring to the speed square technique illustrated in
the third image (labeled "2.") at the following site (only use the 45° edge
rather than the 90° edge as the hand held circular saw guide).
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...nGamdaq4EtqfE=
If you need angles other than 90 or 45 degrees, then get one of the
inexpensive protractor saw guides illustrated in subsequent images on the
same page. If you have problems holding the speed square firmly, clamp it.
Of course, sliding compound miter saw is an even better, but considerably
more expensive, alternative.

If you're trying to use badly warped 'home store' lumber, return it as
unsuitable and go to a quality lumber supplier. And still inspect every
piece (that needs to be straight) before accepting it.

David Merrill

"Jay R" wrote in message
news:OzZwk.774$1a2.445@trnddc04...
Make my mark and line using a speed square, then I place the saw on the
mark
and set the speed square next to it as a guide.

If you keep a good grip on the square and wood and mark sure to guide the
saw with the square you will make a cut as good as if you had a power
miter
saw.




"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce.
I
love making sawdust.

Sal

"Leon" wrote in message
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and

Making an accurate 45 degree cut is really no harder than making an
accurate
90 degree cut. What exactly is the problem that you are having? What saw
are you using?

I'm willing to bet that his "cheaper wood" is splintering a lot. Only
suggestion I can offer is to score it first with a razor knife.

Gordon Shumway writes:

On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 13:06:21 -0400, Richard Evans
wrote:

Even if you don't have exactly 45, the two
cuts will be complementary and join perfectly.

Incorrect. The two surfaces may meet but the resulting angle of the
two boards will not be 90 degrees unless the cut is exactly 45
degrees. The OP implied he needs the resulting angle to be 90
degrees.

G.S.

If the outer edge of the V-shaped guide is 90, then it will be 90 even
if the miter isn't exactly 45. (e.g. 45 1/2 and 44 1/2.)

Both the interior and exterior edges may not line up (picture a 30/60
combined angle).

"Richard Evans" wrote in message

Not really. On a table saw, use two miter guides set to 45, one on
each side of the blade. Make one cut on one side, then make the mating
cut from the other side. Even if you don't have exactly 45, the two
cuts will be complementary and join perfectly.


He'd building a deck. Cutting the 45's on the end of a 12' board on a
tablesaw will be a PITA.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
He'd building a deck. Cutting the 45's on the end of a 12' board on a
tablesaw will be a PITA.

Agreed. It's a deck, not piece of ornate furniture. Even if there's a little
splintering, it would go unnoticed and if it doesn't, it only adds to the
rustic nature of decks. A suitably sized speed square is all that's needed
for a deck.

"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal
Make your 45's with a slight bevel, so only to top edge hits.

Thanks for all the info guys , I got her done in-between all the rain
showers, now I've got to go back to work and take it easy, been on holidays
, worked my butt off.

Sal
"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal

sal wrote:
Thanks for all the info guys ...

So, what was/were the useful piece(s) to the real problem which was
never actually revealed???

--

The real problems were cheap tools that had sloppy angle measurements
black and decker circular saw 45deg was actually 43deg B+D mitersaw 45deg
between 43 and 44deg I bought an protracter to measure the angles. The
lumber I was using grade 2 kiln dried spruce some twist warpage etc hard
to square up. the good stuff goes to US market.

Sal

"sal" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me how to make accurate 45 % cuts that actually fit
together nicely? I was building an deck and have some herringbone and
mitered joints that were an devil to do , using number 2 grade spruce. I
love making sawdust.

Sal

sal wrote:
The real problems were cheap tools that had sloppy angle measurements
black and decker circular saw 45deg was actually 43deg B+D mitersaw 45deg
between 43 and 44deg I bought an protracter to measure the angles. The
lumber I was using grade 2 kiln dried spruce some twist warpage etc hard
to square up. the good stuff goes to US market.

So...

"Cut them to exactly 45 degrees" was helpful? G