I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 6:53:34 PM UTC-7, John Doe wrote:
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).


I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 19:10:32 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 6:53:34 PM UTC-7, John Doe wrote:
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).


I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

Hey, that's a great suggestion, Jon. John is lacking a $500 hobby
lathe that would easily do the job, and you recommend a $5,000 spin
fixture. Great thinking!

--
Ed Huntress

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 4:02:46 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, a lying fraud and worthless ad copy writer for pay for play advertising based machining magazines, failed:

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 07:30:11 -0700 (PDT), jon_banquer
wrote:


I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 4:02:46 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, a lying fraud and worthless ad copy writer for pay for play advertising based machining magazines, failed:


Jonny Bonkers, an emotionally disturbed nutcase whose identity is
based on a LinkedIn Group for which he is paid nothing and couldn't
be, because he's never written anything worth paying for, bloviated,
turned tail, and ran...and missed the point, as he is wont to do.

The point you missed, Jonny, is that your disdain for this group has
been noted, "the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can
really appreciate...," as has your need to remind everyone that you're
really slumming here on a recreational newsgroup, which you have
claimed is just for "losers," with you being a professional that no
one in this group "can really appreciate."

On the very last point, there's a grain of truth in the way you said
it, if not in what you intended. At least, a sometime professional.
Often, for a couple of months at a time, apparently. And you are not
appreciated, at least for the legend in your own mind.

--
Ed Huntress

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 9:45:06 AM UTC-7, slow eddy, the liar and fraud, who has zero modern, current, CNC machine shop experience, failed miserably:

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

There is a difference between appreciating a tool and being able to justify buying it. Hard to justify that expense when doing recreational metalworking.

Dan

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 7:55:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

There is a difference between appreciating a tool and being able to justify buying it. Hard to justify that expense when doing recreational metalworking.

Dan

Right but it's important to know what a quality tool for this kind of job is and either find an alternative or learn to make one.

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 7:55:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with side jobs I've done with it.

There is a difference between appreciating a tool and being able to justify buying it. Hard to justify that expense when doing recreational metalworking.

Dan

When I worked at Central Tool and Machine in Bridgeport Connecticut we use to make this kind of tool. I was hoping the idiot might get some ideas from what I posted but I don't believe that will happen. I think I still have the prints for the tool and how to make it but I would never share them with this asshole. I have shared them in the past with others who have made their own. From what I can tell it's way above his very limited skill set. He's an anonymous posting pussy for a reason.

wrote in message
...
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:10:38 PM UTC-4, jon_banquer wrote:

I'd use a surface grinder and my Newbould Grindit:

http://www.imperialnewbould.com/the-...d-grindit.html

It's the kind of expensive tool that no one in this group can
really appreciate. Mine has paid for itself many times over with
side jobs I've done with it.

There is a difference between appreciating a tool and being able to
justify buying it. Hard to justify that expense when doing
recreational metalworking.

Dan

I looked into surface grinder accessories like punch formers and
radius dressers so I'd recognize a good one at an auction, but still
couldn't justify one for the mostly computer and microwave prototype
machining work I did.
http://www.shars.com/punch-former-radius-dresser

Sometimes it's better to contract out a one-time job and spend
valuable time on other parts of the project.

-jsw

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary
tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

I made my first one from a copper pipe cap that fit the end of the
Dremel closely.

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 23:37:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary
tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

I made my first one from a copper pipe cap that fit the end of the
Dremel closely.


I made mine from a chunk of Delrin - drilled a hole to fit my
handpiece, and another to fit on my compound toolholder post.

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 00:40:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 23:37:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary
tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

I made my first one from a copper pipe cap that fit the end of the
Dremel closely.


I made mine from a chunk of Delrin - drilled a hole to fit my
handpiece, and another to fit on my compound toolholder post.

Mine is PVC, and I have another one that fits my ancient B&D die
grinder.

It sounds like every home-shop machinist has had the same idea.

--
Ed Huntress

wrote:
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

And it works extremely well for light work . Use foil , rags , newspaper or
something to keep the grinding grit off the ways . Your lathe will thank you
..

--
Snag

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 01:51:26 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a
slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut
off
wheel (or other attachment).
It's called a lathe and a toolpost bracket to hold the rotary tool. -
Poor man's tool post grinder.

For free hand work I've found that its handy to clamp a rotary handpiece in
the vise sometimes.

For the OP a drill press or a mill with slitting saw would work. Clamp the
socket in a vise on the table slide it around (drill press) or turn the
handles (mill). On a cheap drill press that you don't care about getting a
little grit in you could use an abbrassive blade to do the job.

On Monday, October 12, 2015 at 3:30:41 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:

For the OP a drill press or a mill with slitting saw would work. Clamp the
socket in a vise on the table slide it around (drill press) or turn the
handles (mill). On a cheap drill press that you don't care about getting a
little grit in you could use an abbrassive blade to do the job.

And clamping some scraps of wood or metal to the table to act as a fence to guide the sliding will help the accuracy a lot.

rangerssuck wrote:

Bob La Londe wrote:

For the OP a drill press or a mill with slitting saw would work.
Clamp the socket in a vise on the table slide it around (drill press)
or turn the handles (mill). On a cheap drill press that you don't
care about getting a little grit in you could use an abbrassive blade
to do the job.

And clamping some scraps of wood or metal to the table to act as a
fence to guide the sliding will help the accuracy a lot.

No idea what you all are talking about. Perhaps you could supply some
pictures or video?

I just need to make accurate cuts and slots with a rotary tool. I cannot
use an extremely thick abrasive cutoff wheel to do the things that a
rotary tool can do.

On Friday, November 6, 2015 at 7:13:57 PM UTC-5, John Doe wrote:
rangerssuck wrote:

Bob La Londe wrote:

For the OP a drill press or a mill with slitting saw would work.
Clamp the socket in a vise on the table slide it around (drill press)
or turn the handles (mill). On a cheap drill press that you don't
care about getting a little grit in you could use an abbrassive blade
to do the job.

And clamping some scraps of wood or metal to the table to act as a
fence to guide the sliding will help the accuracy a lot.

No idea what you all are talking about. Perhaps you could supply some
pictures or video?

I just need to make accurate cuts and slots with a rotary tool. I cannot
use an extremely thick abrasive cutoff wheel to do the things that a
rotary tool can do.

Well, imagine this:
1) clamp the rotary tool to a hunk of 2x4
2) clamp the workpiece to a second hunk of 2x4
3) set both 2x4s on a sheet of plywood, shimming as needed to get the rotary tool's cutter at the height where you want to cut
4) screw the 2x4 with the rotary tool to the plywood. Now, moving the other 2x4 will cut into the workpiece along a line.
5) you can control the depth of the cut (and keep it parallel to the axis of the workpiece) by screwing a fence to the plywood that will restrict the motion of the workpiece to the depth and direction you want.
6) If you want to cut around the workpiece (and I think you do), instead of a 2x4, you can whack together a v-block out of 1x1 scraps screwed to a 1x4 or something like that. Add a stop to the v-block to locate the workpiece and you're in business.

A) All of the dimensions are for example only
B) this sort of fixturing is pretty common in setting up router cuts (wood router). Watch this, and I think you'll get the general idea:
https://youtu.be/Uc8nW_sE_40

HTH,

JPB

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

You should learn about standard machine tools and what they can do.
Either a lathe or a surface grinder could handle that. The cheaper way
would be a small chop saw, or anneal it, saw it and reharden. If you
weren't as irascible and hostile as Bonkers I might be more helpful.

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 23:30:41 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

You should learn about standard machine tools and what they can do.
Either a lathe or a surface grinder could handle that. The cheaper way
would be a small chop saw, or anneal it, saw it and reharden. If you
weren't as irascible and hostile as Bonkers I might be more helpful.

It would likely be cheaper to buy the socket made for the job - sounds
like you are trying to make a sensor socket???

wrote:

It would likely be cheaper to buy the socket made for the job - sounds
like you are trying to make a sensor socket???

I'm upgrading the front sprocket connection for my next electric bike.
Using a roughly 3/8 inch slice of 1/2 inch drive 1 1/4 inch socket.

I would post a picture, but currently it isn't anything but the uncut
socket. Not 100% sure that it will work, but it's an elegant design.
And I can use the rotary tool slicer for other things too.

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
wrote:

It would likely be cheaper to buy the socket made for the job -
sounds
like you are trying to make a sensor socket???

I'm upgrading the front sprocket connection for my next electric
bike.
Using a roughly 3/8 inch slice of 1/2 inch drive 1 1/4 inch socket.

I would post a picture, but currently it isn't anything but the
uncut
socket. Not 100% sure that it will work, but it's an elegant design.
And I can use the rotary tool slicer for other things too.

A suitable inexpensive tool is out there if you have the imagination
to adapt it to your use.

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 8:30:34 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"John Doe" wrote in message
...
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut
a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

You should learn about standard machine tools and what they can do.
Either a lathe or a surface grinder could handle that. The cheaper way
would be a small chop saw, or anneal it, saw it and reharden. If you
weren't as irascible and hostile as Bonkers I might be more helpful.

Keep helping him, Jim. Give him as much time as you have.

One day you might get a clue but it's not going to be anytime soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8ZdzUvgOnY

That's the idea.

Maybe the rotary tool can be on a simple pivot that accurately/steadily
lowers it down onto the slowly spinning workpiece, aligned with the
slowly spinning workpiece.






I wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a
slot into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off wheel (or other attachment).

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 9:53:34 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

Not sure of exactly how you want to cut the socket. But I have made Vee blocks out of wood and think you could make a rotary tool add on out of wood that would do what needs to be done.

Pallets are often made of oak which works well.

Of course if you have a table saw to make the add on, you can probably mount an abrasive disk on the table saw and cut with that.

Dan

wrote in message
...
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 9:53:34 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to
cut a slot
into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off
wheel (or other attachment).

Not sure of exactly how you want to cut the socket. But I have made
Vee blocks out of wood and think you could make a rotary tool add
on out of wood that would do what needs to be done.

Pallets are often made of oak which works well.

Of course if you have a table saw to make the add on, you can
probably mount an abrasive disk on the table saw and cut with that.

Dan

I've been waiting to see if he was clever enough to figure that out
for himself.

Now that you've revealed it, there's lots to go wrong, like igniting
sawdust and ruining the saw and motor bearings with grit. I run mine
at around 1800 RPM with a small motor that will lift to slip the belt
when the disk jams. I've shattered a cutoff wheel on my surface
grinder and don't need a repeat performance while I'm standing in the
fragments' flight path.

-jsw

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:47:43 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
Now that you've revealed it, there's lots to go wrong, like igniting
sawdust and ruining the saw and motor bearings with grit. I run mine
at around 1800 RPM with a small motor that will lift to slip the belt
when the disk jams. I've shattered a cutoff wheel on my surface
grinder and don't need a repeat performance while I'm standing in the
fragments' flight path.

Harbor Freight has a little 6.5 inch and a 2 inch cutoff saw:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-55...saw-61659.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mi...saw-61900.html

and they sell a guard to go on/with their small angle grinders that you
could use like a table saw. Clamp your angle grinder in something
upside down:

http://www.harborfreight.com/safety-...ers-61680.html

Lotsa of ways to get-it-done...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

As explained in a follow-up post, a simple cutoff saw isn't the answer.

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 18:13:44 +0000 (UTC)
John Doe wrote:

As explained in a follow-up post, a simple cutoff saw isn't the answer.

The problem is we don't know what you have tool wise or are willing to
buy...

When I want to do something like your request I go through the
possibilities in my head based on the tools I have access to. I also
consider things that I could purchase and would stay with my comfort
zone budget wise.

You could put your item in drill and pretend the drill was a lathe.
Lots of slop but it would work for low precision stuff. Or mount your
rotary tool to a board and then push that assembly with the miter
block on your table saw.

Dremel sells a little drill press adapter for their rotary
tools:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...spx?pid=220-01

Or maybe the shaper/router table:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...l.aspx?pid=231

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
As explained in a follow-up post, a simple cutoff saw isn't the
answer.

It isn't the answer for you, perhaps. I typically can cut square
within 0.005" per 1" of cross-section by carefully squaring the
workholding vise to the cutoff wheel or bandsaw blade. The incentive
to get it close is my surface grinder which removes only 1 - 2
thousandths per pass, so I know immediately how far off square the cut
was when I clean it up.

-jsw

"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

wrote
John Doe wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to
cut a slot into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off wheel (or other attachment).

Not sure of exactly how you want to cut the socket. But I have made
Vee blocks out of wood and think you could make a rotary tool add
on out of wood that would do what needs to be done.

Pallets are often made of oak which works well.

Of course if you have a table saw to make the add on, you can
probably mount an abrasive disk on the table saw and cut with that.

I've been waiting to see if he was clever enough to figure that out
for himself.

One reason lathes are precise is because they spin the workpiece. I
often make precise cuts by spinning the workpiece slowly while using a
rotary tool to make the cut. Besides the accurate cut by spinning the
workpiece, rotary tool cut off wheels are thin so they waste less
material.

Given a half decent way of neatly spinning the workpiece, all I need is
a way to steadily move the rotary tool into the metal. I think that can
be accomplished with a simple pivot point like scissors use. Maybe using
aluminum flat bar (since that's in abundance here). The working end/side
of the arm can be short, maybe 3 inches.

I'm not getting any younger, and wasting cut off wheels and material is
pointless anyway when a rotary tool holder is bound to be easy enough to
construct. It will be especially useful for accurately chopping a 1 1/4
inch hard steel socket. I can do it by hand, but I'd rather not.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/275322...in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/275322...in/photostream

Going to try it now.

When making symmetrical cuts in cylindrical objects...

The good thing about holding a rotary tool by hand is that the material
can be spun and you can begin the cut at the correct angle according to
the material's spinning axis. The problem is holding the rotary tool
steady and keeping it at that exact angle throughout the cut. That problem
is amplified the deeper you cut into the material.

Hopefully, the only problem with a miter saw styled rotary tool holder is
setting it up so that it attacks the spinning material at the correct
angle. Will see.



I wrote:

I need to slice a piece off of a 1 1/4 inch socket. Also need to cut a
slot into that socket.

Sure would be nice to have a rotary tool add-on...

1. That holds the rotary tool stationary.

2. Slowly and steadily moves or spins the work into the rotary tool
cut off wheel (or other attachment).

No surprise. Superclean thin and easy cut. Apparently the only trick
will be lining up the material.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/275322...n/photostream/
(to be deleted if and when the sprocket holder is complete)

That cut was made with one regular size heavy duty cut off wheel. And
there's still a lot left on the wheel. Took a while, but it was done
outside at night and was kind of cool turning off my headlamp to watch
the sparks fly without worrying about the location of the cut.

Now I'm going to slice off about 1/2 inch of that 1 1/4 inch socket. The
cut will be about 12 mm deep and thin as a cut off wheel. See if the
rotary tool miter saw jig can do it in one cut off wheel without
shattering wheels. No way I could do that by hand. It could be done with
a larger cut off tool since the cut off part of the socket will be
discarded.

Lining up the rotary tool so that the cut off wheel is in line with the
cut is a challenge.

I got halfway through and the NiCad drill battery ran out. In order to
change the battery, things must be repositioned and realigned. But this
time the battery will be very well charged.

This metal is hard, but so far the cut is thin and about 1/4 inch deep.
Have used very little of the cut off wheel. I don't know how, but hopefully
that is a benefit of using the rotary tool holder.

Using my caliper... Looks like the cut cannot be completed with the rotary
tool. The large "EZ" cut off disk isn't going to make it all away through
the metal. I guess it's time to buy a grinder.