Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are? And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe lard
oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess .

--
Snag

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 19:14:43 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 12:03:47 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 10:53:08 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.

Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38
years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is
left over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.

Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.

Makes great chainsaw bar oil. I'm sure you'll tell me how bad I'm polluting now.

Yum, bypassed combustion products and acids on my chainsaw bar,
sprocket, and chain...I can't _wait_ to try that at home!

--
Worrying does not take away tomorrow's troubles,
it takes away today's peace. --Lifehack

"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in news:mlej37$o6r$1
@dont-email.me:

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess .


And I switched to boiled linseed oil and half-again its weight in graphite,
just because I never wanted to paint the inside bearing surfaces of my
garage door roller tracks again.

MAN, there are some stuffed-shirts on here!

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in
news:mlej37$o6r$1 @dont-email.me:

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans
just because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess .


And I switched to boiled linseed oil and half-again its weight in
graphite, just because I never wanted to paint the inside bearing
surfaces of my garage door roller tracks again.

MAN, there are some stuffed-shirts on here!

Totally different applications here Lloyd . I got tired of having to scrub
the mess out of pans that don't see frequent use . Stuffed shirt ? Me ?
Hardly !
I can think of a few places where your BLO and graphite mixture would work
well though .
--
Snag

On 6/11/2015 12:00 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mlcav8
:

boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.

Yep... then top that off with LOTS of dry graphite, to keep everything
moving smoothly. 'Bout a 1/2-oz per foot of roller channel works well.


What am I missing: garage door rollers are supposed to roll, the channel
doesn't need to be lubricated.

On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 8:37:16 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 19:14:43 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 12:03:47 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 10:53:08 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.

Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38
years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is
left over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.

Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.

Makes great chainsaw bar oil. I'm sure you'll tell me how bad I'm polluting now.

Yum, bypassed combustion products and acids on my chainsaw bar,
sprocket, and chain...I can't _wait_ to try that at home!

--
Worrying does not take away tomorrow's troubles,
it takes away today's peace. --Lifehack

I don't run my hands up and down the chain or bar except during adjustments and with work gloves. And I don't eat the firewood. And just exactly how much exposure is there when stacking the firewood when I'm usually using work gloves again? See how silly this exposure to toxins can become. Go ahead and pay for bar oil. Your dime.

"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in
:

Totally different applications here Lloyd . I got tired of having to
scrub the mess out of pans that don't see frequent use . Stuffed shirt
? Me ? Hardly !

'Still don't get it, do you, Terry?

When's the last time YOU painted the INSIDE BEARING SURFACE of a roller
track?

Lloyd

In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are? And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe lard
oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess.

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

Joe Gwinn

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 10:33:46 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are? And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe lard
oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess.

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

Joe Gwinn

Peanut oil is the one often recommended by chefs and cookware
manufacturers, supposedly because it has a high smoking temperature
and seals the cast-iron pores better than other oils.

I used it 40 years ago, but I don't like the smell and switched to
other oils. I never noticed a difference in how my pans behave but
there are so many other factors involved that it's hard to tell.

I'll bet that 20W-40 would work really well. 'Maybe even better if you
load it with graphite powder. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it
toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are?
And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which
is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as
solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe
lard
oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans
just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess.

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

Joe Gwinn

I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
with Dawn and a plastic brush. The remaining black coating is thin but
very stable and the iron doesn't rust while drip-drying. Omelettes
come loose easily in it without splitting.

I don't run the wood stove hot enough to make the oil smoke.

-jsw

In article , Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 10:33:46 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are? And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe lard
oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess.

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

Joe Gwinn

Peanut oil is the one often recommended by chefs and cookware
manufacturers, supposedly because it has a high smoking temperature
and seals the cast-iron pores better than other oils.

I've read that too, though I was using peanut oil long before, probably
because I observed that it seemed to turn to varnish pretty quickly.

Turning this around, I've also discovered that the quickest way to
remove burned-on crud in the bottom of a pan is methylene-chloride
based paint stripper - the cured food oil is in fact varnish.


I used it 40 years ago, but I don't like the smell and switched to
other oils. I never noticed a difference in how my pans behave but
there are so many other factors involved that it's hard to tell.

Any unsaturated edible oil will do, though some cure better than
others, and the taste of the oil varies as well.

As for peanut oil, once the oil on the pan has cured, one cannot taste
the oil. Especially after frying some meat.

I have not tried it, but I bet corn oil would work. Likewise safflower
oil.


I'll bet that 20W-40 would work really well. 'Maybe even better if you
load it with graphite powder. d8-)

I bet the viscosity modifiers are tasty.


Joe Gwinn

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in
:

Totally different applications here Lloyd . I got tired of having to
scrub the mess out of pans that don't see frequent use . Stuffed
shirt ? Me ? Hardly !

'Still don't get it, do you, Terry?

When's the last time YOU painted the INSIDE BEARING SURFACE of a
roller track?

Lloyd

Never , and if you look above you'll see the post where I was laughing my
ass off about it . HOWEVER there may actually be an application where
graphite bound with BLO may make a decent lubricant . Ever heard of/used
molykote 8800 ? MoS2 in a binder .

--
Snag

Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are?
And they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe
lard oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans
just because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess.

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

Joe Gwinn

I can't use peanut oil , wife is sensitive to it . Does awful things to
her digestive tract .

--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in
:

Never , and if you look above you'll see the post where I was laughing
my ass off about it .

Sorry. I didn't see it, or I'd have lightened up on you.

Apparently, though, SEVERAL folks here just do not get the joke.

And to the guy who asked why anyone would lubricate a ROLLING member...
I don't know... why do they lubricate roller bearings? (duh!)

Lloyd

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 13:30:37 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 10:33:46 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are? And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe lard
oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess.

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

Joe Gwinn

Peanut oil is the one often recommended by chefs and cookware
manufacturers, supposedly because it has a high smoking temperature
and seals the cast-iron pores better than other oils.

I've read that too, though I was using peanut oil long before, probably
because I observed that it seemed to turn to varnish pretty quickly.

Turning this around, I've also discovered that the quickest way to
remove burned-on crud in the bottom of a pan is methylene-chloride
based paint stripper - the cured food oil is in fact varnish.

Huh. I'll have to try that. I use a 3/4" wood chisel and a 4"
angle-head grinder. d8-)



I used it 40 years ago, but I don't like the smell and switched to
other oils. I never noticed a difference in how my pans behave but
there are so many other factors involved that it's hard to tell.

Any unsaturated edible oil will do, though some cure better than
others, and the taste of the oil varies as well.

As for peanut oil, once the oil on the pan has cured, one cannot taste
the oil. Especially after frying some meat.

I have not tried it, but I bet corn oil would work. Likewise safflower
oil.

I went to olive oil first, and then settled on canola oil.



I'll bet that 20W-40 would work really well. 'Maybe even better if you
load it with graphite powder. d8-)

I bet the viscosity modifiers are tasty.

It tastes like...quinoa panzanella a la Pennzoil.



Joe Gwinn

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 13:14:20 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in
:

Never , and if you look above you'll see the post where I was laughing
my ass off about it .

Sorry. I didn't see it, or I'd have lightened up on you.

Apparently, though, SEVERAL folks here just do not get the joke.

And to the guy who asked why anyone would lubricate a ROLLING member...
I don't know... why do they lubricate roller bearings? (duh!)

To reduce friction against the cages and against each other, in
cageless sets.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

To reduce friction against the cages and against each other, in
cageless sets.

Really? I didn't know that! not

And why would one lubricate the rollers in a garage door track? Because
they do not roll precisely-true, and rub on the sides. And they're
noisy, metal on sheet metal, and all that; lubrication also quiets them.

Just to be clear, Ed; I knew all about that... its being sort of
"mechanics 101". The joke about BLO and graphite was a joke, so "off-
the-wall" that ANYBODY would have 'gotten it'. And so many didn't...
sigh

Lloyd

In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Joe Gwinn wrote:
In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are?
And they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe
lard oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans
just because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess.

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

Joe Gwinn

I can't use peanut oil , wife is sensitive to it . Does awful things to
her digestive tract .

She'll be OK so long as she doesn't eat the pan. The oil is well cured
and does not come off.

Anyway, as Ed mentioned, canola oil also works.

Joe Gwinn

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 13:24:00 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

To reduce friction against the cages and against each other, in
cageless sets.

Really? I didn't know that! not

And why would one lubricate the rollers in a garage door track? Because
they do not roll precisely-true, and rub on the sides. And they're
noisy, metal on sheet metal, and all that; lubrication also quiets them.

Just to be clear, Ed; I knew all about that... its being sort of
"mechanics 101". The joke about BLO and graphite was a joke, so "off-
the-wall" that ANYBODY would have 'gotten it'. And so many didn't...
sigh

Lloyd

We seem to have a failure to communicate. g Let's see why that is:

Lloyd asks:

"And to the guy who asked why anyone would lubricate a ROLLING
member...I don't know... why do they lubricate roller bearings?
(duh!)"

To which Ed replies:

"To reduce friction against the cages and against each other, in
cageless sets."

And Lloyd rejoins:

"Really? I didn't know that! not"

Lloyd, you asked a reasonable question, got an accurate and reasonable
answer, and now you seem to be perplexed about it. Carrying on:

Lloyd says:

"And why would one lubricate the rollers in a garage door track?
Because they do not roll precisely-true, and rub on the sides. And
they're noisy, metal on sheet metal, and all that; lubrication also
quiets them."

Which is generally true, but which HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE QUESTION
YOU ASKED!

You asked why roller bearings are lubricated. And you expect an answer
to why one would lubricate a roller wheel on a sheet-metal track.
Different questions, and they get different answers. My solution, BTW,
is to shoot some oil into the bearings and don't wipe it up when some
oil drools out. It works great. No fuss, no muss. g

Now, about your linseed-and-graphite soup: You'd just given us a story
about "real" boiled linseed oil, which was sort of half cracker-barrel
technology and half old-wives's tale (more about this later), and now
you sound like you're serious about recommending this glop. Maybe you
were serious. What you said is partly true: linseed is used to protect
against rust (more about this later, too) and graphite is sometimes
mixed with binders for lubricating purposes. You seem to think that
some linseed doesn't get really hard, so maybe you thought that was
all a good idea. I didn't want to get into a big discussion about it
(an idea that now has become a complete loss g), so I let it slip
away after your sardonic remarks.

===================================

A few facts about linseed oil, boiled and otherwise: It boils at
around 300 deg. F. It smokes -- like crazy -- at around 225 deg. F.
When they boiled it in ancient times, it was done with a
metal-compound catalyst, which they called "metal salts," which was,
in earlier times, litharge. That's lead oxide. It wasn't until they
STOPPED boiling it, centuries later, that they found they could use
other metal salts to promote hardening without actually boiling the
oil. Today, it's often a cobalt compound. Sometimes it's a mixture of
a zinc compound and something else.

So I have no idea what you mean by "real" boiled linseed. They haven't
done that for well over a century. Where the idea came from MAY be
from the way they make "stand oil." For that, you heat linseed in a
sealed container to around 600 deg. F, for hours. The result is called
stand oil. It's used a lot in artist's oil paints, and small amounts
of it are sometimes mixed into the commercial product that we call
"boiled" linseed oil today. It's as thick as honey and it's partly
polymerized. It promotes polymerization of raw linseed. Don't do this
at home; a leak could cause an explosion.

So far, you've got some homebrew product that you're happy with, and
that's fine. But you got the tacky part all twisted up. Raw linseed
takes a very long time to harden. I sealed a pair of custom-made ash
oars, which I still have, with raw linseed the year we moved into our
house: 1978. By 1981 or so, they were nice and hard and dry. g They
took extra time because I didn't know at that time that you're
supposed to mix the first coat 50/50 with real turpentine. Now I know.
That's how I've done my gunstocks, only with boiled linseed rather
than raw linseed. The first coat takes weeks to dry. Subsequent coats,
hand-rubbed with the heel of my hand, take around a week or less. My
Model 1885 Browning falling-block, before I sold it, had over 20
hand-rubbed coats on it. It was absolutely beautiful. My antique
woodworking planes were treated the same way.

That was "commercial" boiled linseed. That's what "boiled" linseed is
today. It's refined raw linseed that contains metal compounds
(collectively known as "Japan driers") that catalyze the oil and
promote polymerization, which basically occurs from an oxidation
reaction. As I said, it may also contain some stand oil, some
turpentine (the artists' product, which is thicker than the turps we
used in house paint years ago), and sometimes other solvents.

Now, here's why I didn't get into this with you: You were partly
right. It can protect against rust, but it doesn't do very well in
open air. It's hydrophobic, but it's also porous. It's kind of a mixed
bag in terms of rust protection. For around 90 years, it's been used
to coat the inside of steel tubes used in aircraft tube frames as a
rust protectant. But here's the kicker: Its protection is based
partly, or maybe mostly, on "eating up" available oxygen in those
(hopefully) sealed tubes, as it oxidizes and polymerizes. In other
words, it starves the rust. And, if the tube is well sealed, it never
gets really hard.

So, not being a mind reader, and not knowing where you got your ideas
about "boiled" linseed oil, I let it slide. You do tend to be jumpy
from time to time, as we both know. d8-) I don't doubt your experience
with the oil but man, following you around the block can be a workout.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
news
So, not being a mind reader, and not knowing where you got your ideas
about "boiled" linseed oil, I let it slide

You obviously know nothing but "lore" about BLO.

It is not "boiled", it is slow-cooked at steam temperatures to cause the
oils/fats to separate from the resins. It is then carefully decanted
first, then filtered through material preferential to fats, until only
the resinous parts remain.

You read. I do. I've made authentic BLO furniture finishes since the
early 1960s by the method above. They don't "harden in a month". They
'cure' in a week.

Lloyd

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 15:39:29 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
news
So, not being a mind reader, and not knowing where you got your ideas
about "boiled" linseed oil, I let it slide

You obviously know nothing but "lore" about BLO.

It is not "boiled", it is slow-cooked at steam temperatures to cause the
oils/fats to separate from the resins. It is then carefully decanted
first, then filtered through material preferential to fats, until only
the resinous parts remain.

The jargon in that business is so fouled up that you might mean
anything. Artists make at least a dozen varieties, several of them
"boiled," and some of them "heat-bodied," some "stand oil," some
"sun-thickened," and so on. They're old terms that refer to many
different heat treatments that have been used through the centuries.
There is no single "lore."


You read. I do. I've made authentic BLO furniture finishes since the
early 1960s by the method above. They don't "harden in a month". They
'cure' in a week.

Very nice. Carry on, Lloyd.

--
Ed Huntress

Lloyd

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:42:33 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:18:14 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 18:58:13 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g

Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.
Actually quite a bit is made from natural gas - - - And in South
Africa they made it from coal during apartheid when they were
embargoed

Are you sure they make synthetic motor oil from gas? I know it's a
common source of ethylene, but I'm not sure about what molecules they
use to assemble Mobil 1.

I was told all "petroleum" products in South Africa in the late
sixties/early seventies came from coal and natural gas.

Natural gas and even "coal gas" can be used to syntheaize oil - but it
is easier to use "heavier" feedstock.

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 21:04:46 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:42:33 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:18:14 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 18:58:13 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g

Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.
Actually quite a bit is made from natural gas - - - And in South
Africa they made it from coal during apartheid when they were
embargoed

Are you sure they make synthetic motor oil from gas? I know it's a
common source of ethylene, but I'm not sure about what molecules they
use to assemble Mobil 1.

I was told all "petroleum" products in South Africa in the late
sixties/early seventies came from coal and natural gas.

Natural gas and even "coal gas" can be used to syntheaize oil - but it
is easier to use "heavier" feedstock.

Right. Chemistry is not my thing, but I'm told that ethylene is a
commodity that can come from oil or gas. Still, the people at
Exxon-Mobil told me that their synthetic products are made from
petroleum.

I suppose it doesn't matter.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:37:31 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article , Terry Coombs
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it
toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are?
And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which
is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as
solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe
lard
oil?

-jsw

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans
just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess.

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

I started using canola oil on my cast iron decades ago. Boil out the
pan, reboil and wipe with un-soaped cloth. Heat it on the stove until
very hot, pour in some canola oil, swipe around, and let sit, cooling
for 5 minutes, then wipe down with paper towel to remove excess oil.
Once the pan is cool, it's seasoned and ready. I use 3:1 virgin
coconut oil to butter as my "oil" for cooking. Neither leaves it
sticky.


I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
with Dawn and a plastic brush.

Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!


The remaining black coating is thin but
very stable and the iron doesn't rust while drip-drying. Omelettes
come loose easily in it without splitting.

Yeah, properly seasoned cast iron is as good or better than PTFE.


I don't run the wood stove hot enough to make the oil smoke.

Omelettes must take hours, then. Condolences.

--
Worrying does not take away tomorrow's troubles,
it takes away today's peace. --Lifehack

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 07:23:27 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 8:37:16 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 19:14:43 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 12:03:47 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 10:53:08 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.

Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38
years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is
left over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.

Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.

Makes great chainsaw bar oil. I'm sure you'll tell me how bad I'm polluting now.

Yum, bypassed combustion products and acids on my chainsaw bar,
sprocket, and chain...I can't _wait_ to try that at home!

--
Worrying does not take away tomorrow's troubles,
it takes away today's peace. --Lifehack

I don't run my hands up and down the chain or bar except during adjustments and with work gloves. And I don't eat the firewood. And just exactly how much exposure is there when stacking the firewood when I'm usually using work gloves again? See how silly this exposure to toxins can become.

Who's talking about toxins? Not I. But dirty oil stinks and acids
eat bars, chains, and sprockets. Go ahead and recycle those onto your
chainsaw. Your extra dimes.


Go ahead and pay for bar oil. Your dime.

You bet I will. And next decade, I'll buy another $6 gallon.

--
The beauty of the 2nd Amendment is that it will not be needed
until they try to take it. --Thomas Jefferson

On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 10:30:40 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 07:23:27 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 8:37:16 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 19:14:43 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 12:03:47 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 10:53:08 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.

Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38
years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is
left over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.

Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.

Makes great chainsaw bar oil. I'm sure you'll tell me how bad I'm polluting now.

Yum, bypassed combustion products and acids on my chainsaw bar,
sprocket, and chain...I can't _wait_ to try that at home!

--
Worrying does not take away tomorrow's troubles,
it takes away today's peace. --Lifehack

I don't run my hands up and down the chain or bar except during adjustments and with work gloves. And I don't eat the firewood. And just exactly how much exposure is there when stacking the firewood when I'm usually using work gloves again? See how silly this exposure to toxins can become.

Who's talking about toxins? Not I. But dirty oil stinks and acids
eat bars, chains, and sprockets. Go ahead and recycle those onto your
chainsaw. Your extra dimes.


Go ahead and pay for bar oil. Your dime.

You bet I will. And next decade, I'll buy another $6 gallon.

--
The beauty of the 2nd Amendment is that it will not be needed
until they try to take it. --Thomas Jefferson

No, the "acids" from diesel crankcase oil don't eat anything on 3000 mile oil changes. I'm anal about oil changes on my truck. I'll concede it doesn't smell nice like bar oil. But, no, on the acids. If they did, I'd be going through chains, bars and sprockets. I'm not.
I'm saving money that would have been wasted on bar oil.

Ed Huntress writes:

Turning this around, I've also discovered that the quickest way to
remove burned-on crud in the bottom of a pan is methylene-chloride
based paint stripper - the cured food oil is in fact varnish.

Huh. I'll have to try that. I use a 3/4" wood chisel and a 4"
angle-head grinder. d8-)

For the burned-on crud on the *outside* of my cast iron ware, I apply
a coarse [1] 3M Clean'n'Strip(tm) wheel or the Walther equialent every
couple of years. These flexible mesh wheels cut well enough to remove
*any* organic crud (or even mill scale from new stock) without gouging
the base metal. I have a circa 1925 B&D end grinder that's just right
for the application.


[1] 3M makes them in 3 grades. But it's so much bother to get stuff
from the 3M industrial catalogue that I usually go for Walther
from a local dealer.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

John B. writes:

Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure whether
they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.

Since neither of those (nor other natural has) contains significant
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, there must be more to
the story than that one sentence reveals.


--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 21:04:46 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:42:33 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:18:14 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 18:58:13 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx
wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining
information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main
method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's
made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like
"Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble
around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have
to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade
bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of
application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now.
All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that
well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply
the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g

Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here.
It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from
petroleum
oil.
Actually quite a bit is made from natural gas - - - And in South
Africa they made it from coal during apartheid when they were
embargoed

Are you sure they make synthetic motor oil from gas? I know it's a
common source of ethylene, but I'm not sure about what molecules
they
use to assemble Mobil 1.

I was told all "petroleum" products in South Africa in the late
sixties/early seventies came from coal and natural gas.

Natural gas and even "coal gas" can be used to syntheaize oil - but
it
is easier to use "heavier" feedstock.

Right. Chemistry is not my thing, but I'm told that ethylene is a
commodity that can come from oil or gas. Still, the people at
Exxon-Mobil told me that their synthetic products are made from
petroleum.

I suppose it doesn't matter.

--
Ed Huntress

As student chemists we learned only enough about petroleum refining
that we could understand the explanations of proprietary processes if
we found a job in that industry. The Mobil 1 MSDS shows they don't
reveal much.

In principle we can make any organic (carbon-based) chemical from pure
carbon; coal or charcoal. The methods chosen in practice depend on
economics and politics more than chemistry.
http://blogs.howstuffworks.com/keep-...d-gasoline.htm

-jsw

On 13 Jun 2015 01:08:44 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


John B. writes:

Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure whether
they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.

Since neither of those (nor other natural has) contains significant
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, there must be more to
the story than that one sentence reveals.

I'm not a chemist so I can't argue one way or the other. All I can say
is that I know of two "fertilizer plants" in Indonesia that made
fertilizer from natural gas. I seem to remember the "Habor, or maybe
Haber, process" being mentioned.
--
cheers,

John B.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:37:31 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
with Dawn and a plastic brush.

Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!


I've been waiting for that mailbomb to explode.
What took so long?

http://www.thekitchn.com/5-myths-of-...ookware-206831
"Official word straight from a fourth-generation cast iron
manufacturer-soap will NOT ruin your cast."

I dilute the Dawn to 1/10 - 1/20 strength in the one-hand pump
dispenser beside the sink and squirt only a drop or two into the pan.
There isn't quite enough to remove all the olive oil and maybe sausage
fat. The water beads up and runs off when I hang the pan vertically
over the drying rack.

-jsw

"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...

John B. writes:

Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure
whether
they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.

Since neither of those (nor other natural has) contains significant
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, there must be more to
the story than that one sentence reveals.
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urea

-jsw

"John B." wrote in message
...
On 13 Jun 2015 01:08:44 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


John B. writes:

Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure
whether
they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.

Since neither of those (nor other natural has) contains significant
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, there must be more to
the story than that one sentence reveals.

I'm not a chemist so I can't argue one way or the other. All I can
say
is that I know of two "fertilizer plants" in Indonesia that made
fertilizer from natural gas. I seem to remember the "Habor, or maybe
Haber, process" being mentioned.
--
cheers,

John B.

The Haber Process turns nitrogen from the air and hydrogen from
natural gas into ammonia, which can then be converted into solid urea
for fertilizer.
http://www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/...ria/haber.html

German chemists developed this and the method for making gasoline from
coal during the wars when they were cut off from petroleum. At the
time they weren't economical for nations with better access to raw
materials but they have become so as the natural supply diminished.

-jsw

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 07:54:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:37:31 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
with Dawn and a plastic brush.

Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!


I've been waiting for that mailbomb to explode.
What took so long?

I hadn't seen it? I forced a girlfriend to eat the next omelet from
the pan once I caught her soaping my cast iron skillet. She almost
threw up from the taste. Then I showed her how to clean it, desoap
it, and season it properly. She's been a believer ever since.


http://www.thekitchn.com/5-myths-of-...ookware-206831
"Official word straight from a fourth-generation cast iron
manufacturer-soap will NOT ruin your cast."

grumble, grumble, bloody knuckledraggers, grumble, grumble
It ruins it for ME. That's enough.

Cast iron is extremely porous. Soap simply taints the pan for ten
more (soapless) washings so you have the taste of the soap and all its
perfumes in your _food_ for that entire time. If you like that, carry
on, but I'll still openly call ya a heathen for doing so. The
reason cast iron has such a bad name in many circles is because their
idiot housewives used soap in them. I've helped dozens of misinformed
people to rediscover the worth of these fine metal pans after ceasing
soap use with them. Soap? Just Say NO!


I dilute the Dawn to 1/10 - 1/20 strength in the one-hand pump
dispenser beside the sink and squirt only a drop or two into the pan.

Well, your dilution helps, but the Ick factor is still high.


There isn't quite enough to remove all the olive oil and maybe sausage
fat. The water beads up and runs off when I hang the pan vertically
over the drying rack.

I learned to boil my pan with plain water when it had to be cleaned,
then to reseason. It has never failed me, and I _much_ prefer the
soap-free taste, thankyouverymuch. I wipe my pans after use and
reseason frequently used pans once every week or two. The boiled
water helps keep the kitchen drain clear, too.

--
The beauty of the 2nd Amendment is that it will not be needed
until they try to take it. --Thomas Jefferson

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 21:03:13 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 10:30:40 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 07:23:27 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 8:37:16 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 19:14:43 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 12:03:47 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 10:53:08 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.

Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38
years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is
left over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.

Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.

Makes great chainsaw bar oil. I'm sure you'll tell me how bad I'm polluting now.

Yum, bypassed combustion products and acids on my chainsaw bar,
sprocket, and chain...I can't _wait_ to try that at home!

--
Worrying does not take away tomorrow's troubles,
it takes away today's peace. --Lifehack

I don't run my hands up and down the chain or bar except during adjustments and with work gloves. And I don't eat the firewood. And just exactly how much exposure is there when stacking the firewood when I'm usually using work gloves again? See how silly this exposure to toxins can become.

Who's talking about toxins? Not I. But dirty oil stinks and acids
eat bars, chains, and sprockets. Go ahead and recycle those onto your
chainsaw. Your extra dimes.


Go ahead and pay for bar oil. Your dime.

You bet I will. And next decade, I'll buy another $6 gallon.

--
The beauty of the 2nd Amendment is that it will not be needed
until they try to take it. --Thomas Jefferson

No, the "acids" from diesel crankcase oil don't eat anything on 3000 mile oil changes. I'm anal about oil changes on my truck. I'll concede it doesn't smell nice like bar oil. But, no, on the acids. If they did, I'd be going through chains, bars and sprockets. I'm not.
I'm saving money that would have been wasted on bar oil.

Granted, it's worse with gasoline engines. And short oil changes uses
the money you would have "wasted" on bar oil.

It's a draw. :^)

--
The beauty of the 2nd Amendment is that it will not be needed
until they try to take it. --Thomas Jefferson

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 06:04:51 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 07:54:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:37:31 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
with Dawn and a plastic brush.

Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!


I've been waiting for that mailbomb to explode.
What took so long?

I hadn't seen it? I forced a girlfriend to eat the next omelet from
the pan once I caught her soaping my cast iron skillet. She almost
threw up from the taste. Then I showed her how to clean it, desoap
it, and season it properly. She's been a believer ever since.


http://www.thekitchn.com/5-myths-of-...ookware-206831
"Official word straight from a fourth-generation cast iron
manufacturer-soap will NOT ruin your cast."

grumble, grumble, bloody knuckledraggers, grumble, grumble
It ruins it for ME. That's enough.

Cast iron is extremely porous. Soap simply taints the pan for ten
more (soapless) washings so you have the taste of the soap and all its
perfumes in your _food_ for that entire time. If you like that, carry
on, but I'll still openly call ya a heathen for doing so. The
reason cast iron has such a bad name in many circles is because their
idiot housewives used soap in them. I've helped dozens of misinformed
people to rediscover the worth of these fine metal pans after ceasing
soap use with them. Soap? Just Say NO!


I dilute the Dawn to 1/10 - 1/20 strength in the one-hand pump
dispenser beside the sink and squirt only a drop or two into the pan.

Well, your dilution helps, but the Ick factor is still high.


There isn't quite enough to remove all the olive oil and maybe sausage
fat. The water beads up and runs off when I hang the pan vertically
over the drying rack.

I learned to boil my pan with plain water when it had to be cleaned,
then to reseason. It has never failed me, and I _much_ prefer the
soap-free taste, thankyouverymuch. I wipe my pans after use and
reseason frequently used pans once every week or two. The boiled
water helps keep the kitchen drain clear, too.

If you can taste the soap, then you've stripped off too much of the
oxidized oil. Like Jim, I stopped listening to that "no soap" stuff
around 30 years ago. My 48-year-old and 39-year-old pans don't taste
like soap, and I wash them with soap almost every time I use them.
Likewise, my c.i. Dutch oven, my c.i. griddle, and my two French
carbon-steel saute pans.

Just don't scrub too hard or too long and you won't have to re-cure
the pan. Get it just right, and you'll only have to strip the pan
every 10 years or so, but it will remain stick-free all the while.

--
The beauty of the 2nd Amendment is that it will not be needed
until they try to take it. --Thomas Jefferson

Spurious quotation, first recorded on the Internet in 2007. Jefferson
never said it or anything like it.

--
Ed Huntress

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 5:04:04 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

--
Ed Huntress

Interesting note: Scott Logan says that, with the exception of the geared-headstocks, he uses #2 way oil for EVERY PART of his Logan lathes, So much for all the specialty stuff. When it comes to caring for my Logan, I'm going to take advice from Scott before I take it from Exxon-Mobil.

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 06:40:39 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 5:04:04 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

--
Ed Huntress

Interesting note: Scott Logan says that, with the exception of the geared-headstocks, he uses #2 way oil for EVERY PART of his Logan lathes, So much for all the specialty stuff. When it comes to caring for my Logan, I'm going to take advice from Scott before I take it from Exxon-Mobil.

Well, the general cast of the discussion I had with that Exxon-Mobil
engineer was more like that of Scott than that of the "specialty" lube
makers. She said that it doesn't make a lot of difference until you
get into really complex lube tasks like lubricating a car engine.

--
Ed Huntress

On 13 Jun 2015 01:08:44 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


John B. writes:

Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure whether
they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.

Since neither of those (nor other natural has) contains significant
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, there must be more to
the story than that one sentence reveals.
From Wkipedia-

All nitrogen fertilizers are made from ammonia (NH3), which is
sometimes injected into the ground directly. The ammonia is produced
by the Haber-Bosch process.[5] In this energy-intensive process,
natural gas (CH4) supplies the hydrogen and the nitrogen (N2) is
derived from the air. This ammonia is used as a feedstock for all
other nitrogen fertilizers, such as anhydrous ammonium nitrate
(NH4NO3) and urea (CO(NH2)2). Deposits of sodium nitrate (NaNO3)
(Chilean saltpeter) are also found in the Atacama desert in Chile and
was one of the original (1830) nitrogen-rich fertilizers used.[11] It
is still mined for fertilizer.[12]

In the USA in 2004, 317 billion cubic feet of natural gas were
consumed in the industrial production of ammonia, less than 1.5% of
total U.S. annual consumption of natural gas.[76] A 2002 report
suggested that the production of ammonia consumes about 5% of global
natural gas consumption, which is somewhat under 2% of world energy
production.[77]

Ammonia is produced from natural gas and air.[78] The cost of natural
gas makes up about 90% of the cost of producing ammonia.[79] The
increase in price of natural gases over the past decade, along with
other factors such as increasing demand, have contributed to an
increase in fertilizer price.[80]

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 18:38:32 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On 13 Jun 2015 01:08:44 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


John B. writes:

Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure whether
they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.

Since neither of those (nor other natural has) contains significant
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, there must be more to
the story than that one sentence reveals.

I'm not a chemist so I can't argue one way or the other. All I can say
is that I know of two "fertilizer plants" in Indonesia that made
fertilizer from natural gas. I seem to remember the "Habor, or maybe
Haber, process" being mentioned.
Haber

again from Wiki -

The 1910s and 1920s witness the rise of the Haber process and the
Ostwald process. The Haber process produces ammonia (NH3) from methane
(CH4) gas and molecular nitrogen (N2). The ammonia from the Haber
process is then converted into nitric acid (HNO3) in the Ostwald
process.[96] The development of synthetic fertilizer has significantly
supported global population growth — it has been estimated that almost
half the people on the Earth are currently fed as a result of
synthetic nitrogen fertilizer use.[97]