Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

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On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8

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Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.

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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.


Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38 years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is left
over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.

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Dicker wrote in news:2bafc
:

What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=What+is+a+good+...door+roller s


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Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.


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Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mlcav8
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boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.


Yep... then top that off with LOTS of dry graphite, to keep everything
moving smoothly. 'Bout a 1/2-oz per foot of roller channel works well.
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On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 10:53:08 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.


Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38
years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is
left over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.


Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.
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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:54:16 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.


And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something like
the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
varnish.

--
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Ed Huntress fired this volley in
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And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something like
the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
varnish.


REALLY? And then all that graphite would turn it into BLACK varnish?

Wow! What an amazing factoid!

face-palm action
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something like
the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
varnish.


REALLY? And then all that graphite would turn it into BLACK varnish?

Wow! What an amazing factoid!

face-palm action


ROTFLMAO

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Snag


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"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:54:16 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.


And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something
like
the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
varnish.

--
Ed Huntress


Eventually it hardens into Linoleum.



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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 11:17:01 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something like
the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
varnish.


REALLY? And then all that graphite would turn it into BLACK varnish?

Wow! What an amazing factoid!

face-palm action


Yup. Black paint, as any handyman over 60 ought to know.

Our oldest family home, built in 1741 in Greenland, NH, was painted
with a mixture of linseed oil and white lead for well over 100 years.
'Makes good paint.

And several of my gunstocks are coated with hand-rubbed linseed, which
dries in a month or so.

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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 12:29:03 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:54:16 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.


And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something
like
the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
varnish.

--
Ed Huntress


Eventually it hardens into Linoleum.


Which makes me wonder if these guys are trying to give Dicker the
shaft. Not nice.

--
Ed Huntress




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Ed Huntress fired this volley in
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And several of my gunstocks are coated with hand-rubbed linseed, which
dries in a month or so.


Not if it's PROPERLY "boiled". You must've done them with commercial
'boiled linseed oil', which is not cooked, just prepared with chemical
dryers to eventually sequester all the fats. In the long view, it's
terrible stuff which stays sticky for a LONG time.

Proper old-school cooked, skimmed, strained linseed oil, on exposure to
the oxygen in the air, polymerizes perfectly in about a week. In order
to do that, ALL the fats have to be cooked out and mechanically removed.

And, if you pre-treat the wood with a potassium permanganate solution
(and clean it again) to accelerate the normal slow oxidation process of
the wood's own resins, you'll get a "years old" patina in about two
months.

I've done a whole bunch of that, building period reproduction furniture.

L
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On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

--
Ed Huntress
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Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...


Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.








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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...


Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g

Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.

--
Ed Huntress
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Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...


Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g


not sure what it was, but it seemed like the right choice at the time.


Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.


So is some vinegar. The additives do make a difference, and I do agree
that there are too many types of lubricants to even shake a stick at these
days, all of which claim to be the best thing ever created. The
differences while subtle do exist and for the case of a garage door
rollers anything would probably work fine in the end. Other applications
could be fussier.

I do keep over a dozen types of oils and greases around for various
things. Each have their purpose, for instance the Cameron drill press,
scissors and old camera shutters only get Nyoil, which is just fancy pure
mineral oil. I never add teflon filled oils to motor bearings, locks get
graphite and so forth, super lube for general purpose use blah blah. No
doubt everybody has their favorites as well. Bike people get real crazy
about chain lubricants.






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On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 6:58:19 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:


I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.

--
Ed Huntress


I am not too sure about that statement. Does that include silicon oil? And how about the oil for use with 410a refrigerant? And then there is the oil with iodine in it. And the transmission oil made with jojoba oil.

Dan

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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:16:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 6:58:19 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:


I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.

--
Ed Huntress


I am not too sure about that statement. Does that include silicon oil?


I don't know, but I doubt it. Silicone is a whole other kettle of
fish. I was speaking of motor oils.

And how about the oil for use with 410a refrigerant? And then there is the oil with iodine in it. And the transmission oil made with jojoba oil.


Again, I was speaking of motor oils.

--
Ed Huntress


Dan

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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:50:52 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g


not sure what it was, but it seemed like the right choice at the time.


Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.


So is some vinegar. The additives do make a difference, and I do agree
that there are too many types of lubricants to even shake a stick at these
days, all of which claim to be the best thing ever created. The
differences while subtle do exist and for the case of a garage door
rollers anything would probably work fine in the end. Other applications
could be fussier.

I do keep over a dozen types of oils and greases around for various
things. Each have their purpose, for instance the Cameron drill press,
scissors and old camera shutters only get Nyoil, which is just fancy pure
mineral oil. I never add teflon filled oils to motor bearings, locks get
graphite and so forth, super lube for general purpose use blah blah. No
doubt everybody has their favorites as well. Bike people get real crazy
about chain lubricants.


Yeah. The basic point was that synthetic motor oils, which are derived
from petroleum oils -- cracked into components and then re-combined in
a controlled way-- are much more lubricious than conventional
petroleum oils. Beyond that, the differences between motor oils and
machine oils are not commonly understood.

You know that grease is just oil with metallic soaps in it to make it
thick and pasty. You may know that the true weight of multi-viscosity
oils actually is the lower value: 10W-40 actually is 10-weight oil.
The additives that give it the multi-vis property really don't alter
the viscosity of the oil. Those additives actually are polymers that
swell up when they're heated. What they do is increase the gap between
journals and bearings *as if* the oil was thicker. The polymers just
swell with heat and keep the gap open.

Most of the additives in motor oil have no effect on the oil's
properties for other uses. Anti-foam, rust protection, and anti-acid
(anti-corrosion) components do almost nothing until they're activated.
The detergents and dispersants only come into play in *closed*
lubricating systems, where the oil it recycled through the machine. In
a plain-spindle-bearing lathe, which is a "total loss" lubricating
system, they have no noticeable affect. In a system that recycles, you
can use motor oil as long as you change the oil when it gets dirty.
The lubricating effects won't change. The additives won't do any
damage. You can have a problem if you've used non-detergent oil in a
machine or engine for years and then switch to deterget oil, because
the semi-jelled glorp can come off in lumps big enough and hard enough
to block oil passages.

All of this came up, and prompted me to call Exxon-Mobil, from a
comment by former member Jim Rozen that he had switched his company's
South Bend plain-bearing 10L lathe to Mobil 1 motor oil - 0W-20, I
think. He said the spindle ran cooler and allowed higher speeds. Like
me, he had been lubing it with South Bend spindle oil.

I talked to the E-M VP about it, and she said, first, it's the same
oil as their industrial synthetic, aside from the additives, and that
those additives make no difference in a total-loss system. She thought
0W-20 would be fine in that application.

This prompted me to ask about other applications, and she said it was
generally the same story: synthetic lubricates much better, and the
additives in motor oil won't matter for almost all applications except
those that recycle the oil. As for viscosity, make sure it's thin
enough to get into the bearing area and thick enough to minimize
metal-to-metal contact.

So I stopped driving to my mill supply to stock a few different
weights of machine oil. I use synthetics in my cars, and I just save
the remains, turning the cans upside-down overnight and then pouring
the last bit into my all-purpose pump oil can.

I did buy a can of 0W-20 to use in the spindle of my furnace blower
motor. I use the heavier stuff on my garden tools and the joints of my
pocket knives. My honing oil is still 10% motor oil and 90% kerosene,
as it has been for close to 60 years, and the motor oil for that is
whatever is lying around.

--
Ed Huntress


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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:03:59 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g


I read the Kingston web page to my wife, who grew up cooking on
charcoal, and she declared it as "utterly false" (I translated her
reply which was a bit more colorful) or, she commented, "those
foreigners don't know much about cooking with charcoal" :-)

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

--
cheers,

John B.

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On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 12:03:47 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 10:53:08 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.


Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38
years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is
left over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.


Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.


Makes great chainsaw bar oil. I'm sure you'll tell me how bad I'm polluting now.
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"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:16:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 6:58:19 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:


I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from
petroleum
oil.

--
Ed Huntress


I am not too sure about that statement. Does that include silicon
oil?


I don't know, but I doubt it. Silicone is a whole other kettle of
fish. I was speaking of motor oils.

And how about the oil for use with 410a refrigerant? And then
there is the oil with iodine in it. And the transmission oil made
with jojoba oil.


Again, I was speaking of motor oils.

--
Ed Huntress


Dan


"Made from petroleum oil" can mean that the synthetic oil is based on
chemicals originally derived from petroleum, such as ethylene and its
relatives. Plastics are also "made from petroleum".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene



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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 14:18:02 +0000, Dicker
wrote:

What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

How about something like "Garage door lubricant" from AGS in Muskegon
Michigan. The tube I have says cat no GLC-1 It is a 34 gram tube and
I've had it for at least a decade.
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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 18:58:13 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...


Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g

Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.

Actually quite a bit is made from natural gas - - - And in South
Africa they made it from coal during apartheid when they were
embargoed


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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:29:21 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:16:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 6:58:19 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:


I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from
petroleum
oil.

--
Ed Huntress

I am not too sure about that statement. Does that include silicon
oil?


I don't know, but I doubt it. Silicone is a whole other kettle of
fish. I was speaking of motor oils.

And how about the oil for use with 410a refrigerant? And then
there is the oil with iodine in it. And the transmission oil made
with jojoba oil.


Again, I was speaking of motor oils.

--
Ed Huntress


Dan


"Made from petroleum oil" can mean that the synthetic oil is based on
chemicals originally derived from petroleum, such as ethylene and its
relatives. Plastics are also "made from petroleum".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene


Right. That was the sneaky point. d8-)

They crack it down, and then re-synthesize it to make "synthetic"
motor oil. And the result is worth it.

This comes up from time to time because I once had a boss who was
proud of the fact that she used synthetic motor oil in her Benz, thus
avoiding the use of petroleum. She was really let down when I
explained it to her.

--
Ed Huntress
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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:18:14 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 18:58:13 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g

Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.

Actually quite a bit is made from natural gas - - - And in South
Africa they made it from coal during apartheid when they were
embargoed


Are you sure they make synthetic motor oil from gas? I know it's a
common source of ethylene, but I'm not sure about what molecules they
use to assemble Mobil 1.

--
Ed Huntress
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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 14:18:02 +0000, Dicker
wrote:

What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers


Garage door lube in a can. Second is spray white lithium.
Spray the bearings only, not the tracks and wheels. Spray the axles if
they're loose-caught in their holders. Nothing else quiets squeaks.

Tighten all hinge screws properly, too.

Wax between door sections if they creak. Car wax or polymer treatment
works well.

Lube the garage door opener rod bearings, too. Tighten all screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-GDL-TS...dp/B0036VQE9G/
Best, doesn't attract dust.

--
Worrying does not take away tomorrow's troubles,
it takes away today's peace. --Lifehack
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Ed Huntress writes:

Our oldest family home, built in 1741 in Greenland, NH, was painted
with a mixture of linseed oil and white lead for well over 100 years.
'Makes good paint.

And several of my gunstocks are coated with hand-rubbed linseed, which
dries in a month or so.


And blacksmiths traditionally (and still) rub workpieces straight
from the fire (sooty, some scale) with linseed oil while just hot enough
to gently smoke a bit. The heat accelerates the polymerization and the
wiped-down piece is no longer sticky by the time it's cool enough to
handle. Makes a nice, somewhat weather resistant black finish.

For wood, a point to note is that "boiled" linseed may contain cobalt
dryer. Probably not very much but cobalt is toxic so you may want to
avoid it on salad bowls and food prep surfaces.

Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada
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Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:54:16 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.


And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something like
the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
varnish.


Which is why a lot of old engine folks use it to preserve their engines.
Brush it on and let it dry, apply a couple coats and it keeps them
looking good for years.

--
Steve W.
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On 12 Jun 2015 02:06:39 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Ed Huntress writes:

Our oldest family home, built in 1741 in Greenland, NH, was painted
with a mixture of linseed oil and white lead for well over 100 years.
'Makes good paint.

And several of my gunstocks are coated with hand-rubbed linseed, which
dries in a month or so.


And blacksmiths traditionally (and still) rub workpieces straight
from the fire (sooty, some scale) with linseed oil while just hot enough
to gently smoke a bit. The heat accelerates the polymerization and the
wiped-down piece is no longer sticky by the time it's cool enough to
handle. Makes a nice, somewhat weather resistant black finish.

For wood, a point to note is that "boiled" linseed may contain cobalt
dryer. Probably not very much but cobalt is toxic so you may want to
avoid it on salad bowls and food prep surfaces.


Right. There are several metal "salts" that have been used in "boiled"
linseed, generally not good things for your health. In the old days it
was boiled with litharge -- red lead oxide. They're catalysts that
promote polymerization of the oil.


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue in
cheek? Surely? :-o


One hopes. One never quite depends on it. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress
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"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...


Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada


Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are? And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe lard
oil?

-jsw


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On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:42:33 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:18:14 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 18:58:13 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx wrote:

On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=gara...utf-8&oe=utf-8



I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek


The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. g

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.


What did you apply, 30-weight? g

Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.

Actually quite a bit is made from natural gas - - - And in South
Africa they made it from coal during apartheid when they were
embargoed


Are you sure they make synthetic motor oil from gas? I know it's a
common source of ethylene, but I'm not sure about what molecules they
use to assemble Mobil 1.


Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure whether
they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.
--
cheers,

John B.

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