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Default Commercial water heater in home

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.

How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).

Thanks


i
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Default Commercial water heater in home

Got yourself a heck of a deal there Ig. Should work just fine at home.
Now your women can take unlimited showers and never run out of hot
water

I assume you already have natural gas and adequate room to install it.

Karl
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On 2014-02-26, Karl Townsend wrote:
Got yourself a heck of a deal there Ig. Should work just fine at home.
Now your women can take unlimited showers and never run out of hot
water


Not only women, I want to take long hot showers. I have a great high
volume shower head in the basement.

I assume you already have natural gas and adequate room to install it.


I think so, yes. I have residential gas supply at low pressure and
3/4" gas pipe.

i
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Default Commercial water heater in home

Ignoramus9393 wrote:
I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.

How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).

Thanks


i



91 gallons! Now that would be a great unit for an in floor heating system.

Heck, it might even make enough hot water to deal with my niece and her
45 minute showers...

To check it over you would drain it disconnect it and look inside with a
good light or better yet an inspection camera. As long as it isn't full
of crud and the anodes and such are good you're good to go.



--
Steve W.
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Default Commercial water heater in home

"Ignoramus9393" wrote in message
...
On 2014-02-26, Karl Townsend
wrote:
Got yourself a heck of a deal there Ig. Should work just fine at
home.
Now your women can take unlimited showers and never run out of hot
water


Not only women, I want to take long hot showers. I have a great high
volume shower head in the basement.

I assume you already have natural gas and adequate room to install
it.


I think so, yes. I have residential gas supply at low pressure and
3/4" gas pipe.

i


You could fill it with water with a hose and see if it leaks.

In case you don't read the political junk, what did you learn in
Russian school about Lenin's New Economic Policy? We studied that
period in fair detail in High School.
jsw




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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:32:15 -0600, Ignoramus9393
wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.


I thought you said it was old. Did you mean 2001?


How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).


That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and buy
a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x to
3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,
you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater

Rinnai is the best rated company on the market. Check for rebates
from both Illinois and Federal sources for increasing your efficiency
and lowering your utility bills. I think you get more for upgrading to
gas from electric.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams
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On 2014-02-26, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ignoramus9393" wrote in message
...
On 2014-02-26, Karl Townsend
wrote:
Got yourself a heck of a deal there Ig. Should work just fine at
home.
Now your women can take unlimited showers and never run out of hot
water


Not only women, I want to take long hot showers. I have a great high
volume shower head in the basement.

I assume you already have natural gas and adequate room to install
it.


I think so, yes. I have residential gas supply at low pressure and
3/4" gas pipe.

i


You could fill it with water with a hose and see if it leaks.


It does not leak for sure. I was more concerned about sediment and
crud build-up inside.

In case you don't read the political junk, what did you learn in
Russian school about Lenin's New Economic Policy? We studied that
period in fair detail in High School.


I did not learn all that much in school -- maybe a chapter -- but I
then went on to read a fair amount about Russian history, it was
always fascinating, like a detective story.

i
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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:59:47 -0600, Ignoramus9393
wrote:

On 2014-02-26, Karl Townsend wrote:
Got yourself a heck of a deal there Ig. Should work just fine at home.
Now your women can take unlimited showers and never run out of hot
water


It will if they waste hot water all day. Otherwise, it will be highly
inefficient. A tankless will pay for itself (gas savings) in a year
under those conditions, I'll bet.


Not only women, I want to take long hot showers. I have a great high
volume shower head in the basement.


I have a lower-flow, higher-pressure shower head and love it. It
beats the soap off my body and gives me a tingle, but doesn't waste
water. I take very short showers, too, you wasteful bastids.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams
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Default Commercial water heater in home

On 2014-02-26, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus9393 wrote:
I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.

How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).

Thanks


i



91 gallons! Now that would be a great unit for an in floor heating system.

Heck, it might even make enough hot water to deal with my niece and her
45 minute showers...

To check it over you would drain it disconnect it and look inside with a
good light or better yet an inspection camera. As long as it isn't full
of crud and the anodes and such are good you're good to go.




OK, this is great, I will do just that, thanks.

i
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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:19:03 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

I have a lower-flow, higher-pressure shower head and love it. It
beats the soap off my body and gives me a tingle, but doesn't waste
water. I take very short showers, too, you wasteful bastids.


Showers are like pussy..one should always take ones time and enjoy it
to the fullest.


--
"A "Liberal Paradise" would be a place where everybody has
guaranteed employment,free comprehensive healthcare,
free education, free food, free housing, free clothing,
free utilities, and only Law Enforcement has guns.
And believe it or not, such a place does indeed exist . . . It's called PRISON.

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That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and buy
a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x to
3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,
you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater


Ig could do something the rest of us can't because our heaters are too
small. Set the temp to just above shower temp maybe 110 degrees.
Considerable improvement in efficiency and he won't run out of hot
water.
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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Wednesday, February 26, 2014 9:08:30 AM UTC-5, Karl Townsend wrote:
That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and buy


a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x to


3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,


you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater




Ig could do something the rest of us can't because our heaters are too

small. Set the temp to just above shower temp maybe 110 degrees.

Considerable improvement in efficiency and he won't run out of hot

water.


Right. Then Iggy can get legionnaires disease. Water in the tank should be maintained at at least 140°F. At the tap, it should be at least 122°F.
https://www.osha.gov/dts/osta/otm/legionnaires/faq.html
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On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 22:36:34 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:19:03 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

I have a lower-flow, higher-pressure shower head and love it. It
beats the soap off my body and gives me a tingle, but doesn't waste
water. I take very short showers, too, you wasteful bastids.


Showers are like pussy..one should always take ones time and enjoy it
to the fullest.


That's only if you don't -get- one for weeks, son.
For those of us who shower daily, quick is sweet.

And, speaking of sex, I haven't had any for so long, I can't remember
WHO gets tied up...

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams
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Default Commercial water heater in home

"rangerssuck" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, February 26, 2014 9:08:30 AM UTC-5, Karl Townsend wrote:
That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and
buy


a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x
to


3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,


you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater




Ig could do something the rest of us can't because our heaters are
too

small. Set the temp to just above shower temp maybe 110 degrees.

Considerable improvement in efficiency and he won't run out of hot

water.


Right. Then Iggy can get legionnaires disease. Water in the tank
should be maintained at at least 140°F. At the tap, it should be at
least 122°F.
https://www.osha.gov/dts/osta/otm/legionnaires/faq.html

===============
That's a theoretical, unproven problem, based on an old report from
Canada. Remember that our public water supply has been treated to
disinfect it. I can't be giving specific health recommendations here,
but look up the temperatures where the bacteria stop multiplying
versus where they die.

http://energy.gov/energysaver/projec...ng-temperature
"And while there is a very slight risk of promoting legionellae
bacteria when hot water tanks are maintained at 120ºF, this level is
still considered safe for the majority of the population."

Untreated well water is different.

I leave mine at the minimum setting unless an ice storm is predicted,
then I set it to max to make it stay warm longer without power and
sterilize the tank.

-NotTheCDC


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On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 06:46:31 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 22:36:34 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:19:03 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

I have a lower-flow, higher-pressure shower head and love it. It
beats the soap off my body and gives me a tingle, but doesn't waste
water. I take very short showers, too, you wasteful bastids.


Showers are like pussy..one should always take ones time and enjoy it
to the fullest.


That's only if you don't -get- one for weeks, son.
For those of us who shower daily, quick is sweet.


No wonder you arent getting any sex. Just saying....

And, speaking of sex, I haven't had any for so long, I can't remember
WHO gets tied up...


(Grin)


--
"A "Liberal Paradise" would be a place where everybody has
guaranteed employment,free comprehensive healthcare,
free education, free food, free housing, free clothing,
free utilities, and only Law Enforcement has guns.
And believe it or not, such a place does indeed exist . . . It's called PRISON.

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Default Commercial water heater in home

Karl Townsend wrote:
That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and buy
a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x
to 3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,
you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater


Ig could do something the rest of us can't because our heaters are too
small. Set the temp to just above shower temp maybe 110 degrees.
Considerable improvement in efficiency and he won't run out of hot
water.


Hey , my camper W/H is set up that way ! Only problem is that it's only 7
gallons , and that means short showers unless you need a cold one .
--
Snag


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On 2/25/2014 11:19 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

I have a lower-flow, higher-pressure shower head and love it. It
beats the soap off my body and gives me a tingle, but doesn't waste
water. I take very short showers, too, you wasteful bastids.

--


Stay in long enough to get wet? Must work, nobody is complaining about
a strange aroma.

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On 2/26/2014 9:46 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:


And, speaking of sex, I haven't had any for so long, I can't remember
WHO gets tied up...

--


....and who brings the snacks!
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On 2/25/2014 9:32 PM, Ignoramus9393 wrote:
I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.

How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).

Thanks


i



Probably won't be very efficient. Pour a couple of gallons of white
vinegar in with some hot water and let it sit for a while to loosen any
scale and flush it well.
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Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:32:15 -0600, Ignoramus9393
wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.


I thought you said it was old. Did you mean 2001?


How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).


That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and buy
a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x to
3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,
you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater

Rinnai is the best rated company on the market. Check for rebates


can you get replacement parts for these things, the same day, any day?




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Default Commercial water heater in home

Ignoramus9393 wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

OK, a couple observations. 590 Lbs dry weight plus 91 gal of
water weighs 1318 Lbs! Can your floor take this weight?
Second, can your flue take 199K BTU without
burning down the house? My water heater has a 3" flue connection,
I think. This thing needs a 6" flue, and it burns more gas than the
furnace on my 2600 sq. ft. house, which is 138K BTU, I think. Third, it
apparently needs electricity for the draft blower and safety controls, so
you get no hot water during a power failure.

Jon
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"Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message
...
On 2/26/2014 9:46 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:


And, speaking of sex, I haven't had any for so long, I can't remember
WHO gets tied up...

--


...and who brings the snacks!



One of you knows the right way... always tell your date to bring a lunch,
because its going to take all day.




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"Tom Gardner" Mars@Tacks wrote in message
...
On 2/25/2014 11:19 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

I have a lower-flow, higher-pressure shower head and love it. It
beats the soap off my body and gives me a tingle, but doesn't waste
water. I take very short showers, too, you wasteful bastids.

--


Stay in long enough to get wet? Must work, nobody is complaining
about a strange aroma.


I put in a sink spray head on an extended hose to wash the dog and
liked it myself so much I removed the fixed shower head. It puts the
blast of hot water right up close and shuts off when releases, wasting
no water while I soap up.


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On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:14:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:32:15 -0600, Ignoramus9393
wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.


I thought you said it was old. Did you mean 2001?


How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).


That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and buy
a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x to
3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,
you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater


I really don't think Iggy wants a tankless - he likely does not have a
big enough meter or lines to run the things - and they are EXPENSIVE
to maintain. No way a tankless would ever save me enough on gas to
pay for the cost, even if it didn't need maintenance for the first 5
or 6 years - which, with our water, would be impossible.

Rinnai is the best rated company on the market. Check for rebates
from both Illinois and Federal sources for increasing your efficiency
and lowering your utility bills. I think you get more for upgrading to
gas from electric.


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On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 14:41:59 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Ignoramus9393 wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

OK, a couple observations. 590 Lbs dry weight plus 91 gal of
water weighs 1318 Lbs! Can your floor take this weight?
Second, can your flue take 199K BTU without
burning down the house? My water heater has a 3" flue connection,
I think. This thing needs a 6" flue, and it burns more gas than the
furnace on my 2600 sq. ft. house, which is 138K BTU, I think. Third, it
apparently needs electricity for the draft blower and safety controls, so
you get no hot water during a power failure.

Jon

With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.


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On 2014-02-26, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus9393 wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

OK, a couple observations. 590 Lbs dry weight plus 91 gal of
water weighs 1318 Lbs! Can your floor take this weight?


The floor can, it is a concrete floor in the basement. But taking it
down to the basement will be a pain.

Second, can your flue take 199K BTU without burning down the house?


My furnace has a 6 inch flue. My current water heater has a 3 inch
flue, IIRC, and joins the 6" furnace flue very close to the heater.

My water heater has a 3" flue connection, I think. This thing needs
a 6" flue, and it burns more gas than the furnace on my 2600
sq. ft. house, which is 138K BTU, I think.


Yes, this is badass, 199,00 BTU.

What I hope is that I can use it to fill my inflatable pool with warm
water.

Third, it apparently needs electricity for the draft blower and
safety controls, so you get no hot water during a power failure.


That's OK, I am not worried, I can survive without hot water, and also
I have a well working 20 kW generator.

Thanks for your thoughtful input, this is exactly what I was looking
for.

i
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On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 17:21:10 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:14:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:32:15 -0600, Ignoramus9393
wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.


I thought you said it was old. Did you mean 2001?


How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).


That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and buy
a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x to
3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,
you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater


I really don't think Iggy wants a tankless - he likely does not have a
big enough meter or lines to run the things - and they are EXPENSIVE
to maintain. No way a tankless would ever save me enough on gas to
pay for the cost, even if it didn't need maintenance for the first 5
or 6 years - which, with our water, would be impossible.


Silly Canuck. Filter/soften that water before heating it, eh?

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams
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On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 17:24:36 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 14:41:59 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Ignoramus9393 wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

OK, a couple observations. 590 Lbs dry weight plus 91 gal of
water weighs 1318 Lbs! Can your floor take this weight?
Second, can your flue take 199K BTU without
burning down the house? My water heater has a 3" flue connection,
I think. This thing needs a 6" flue, and it burns more gas than the
furnace on my 2600 sq. ft. house, which is 138K BTU, I think. Third, it
apparently needs electricity for the draft blower and safety controls, so
you get no hot water during a power failure.

Jon

With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.


Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams
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On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 18:47:57 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 17:21:10 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:14:58 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:32:15 -0600, Ignoramus9393
wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.

My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.

I thought you said it was old. Did you mean 2001?


How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).

That will be very inefficient for household use, Ig. Sell it and buy
a new tankless gas heater. They're extremely efficient but cost 2x to
3x that of tank heaters. If you can make a grand off the big one,
you're all set. http://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater


I really don't think Iggy wants a tankless - he likely does not have a
big enough meter or lines to run the things - and they are EXPENSIVE
to maintain. No way a tankless would ever save me enough on gas to
pay for the cost, even if it didn't need maintenance for the first 5
or 6 years - which, with our water, would be impossible.


Silly Canuck. Filter/soften that water before heating it, eh?

I do. A lot do not. .
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On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 18:48:44 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 17:24:36 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 14:41:59 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Ignoramus9393 wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

OK, a couple observations. 590 Lbs dry weight plus 91 gal of
water weighs 1318 Lbs! Can your floor take this weight?
Second, can your flue take 199K BTU without
burning down the house? My water heater has a 3" flue connection,
I think. This thing needs a 6" flue, and it burns more gas than the
furnace on my 2600 sq. ft. house, which is 138K BTU, I think. Third, it
apparently needs electricity for the draft blower and safety controls, so
you get no hot water during a power failure.

Jon

With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.


Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...

Depends - If he's on a well, no. On city water it's never been a
problem here.


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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.


Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...


I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.
jsw


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On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.


Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...


I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.


Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm
working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators
at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.


Don't you have a generator?


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On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 09:22:43 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm
working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators
at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.


Don't you have a generator?


No, and in a crunch, I wouldn't want one. It draws the ire of too
many people, both from the noise and from the "You have power and we
don't; GIMME!" sides.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams
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Larry Jaques on Thu, 27 Feb 2014
06:33:22 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 09:22:43 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm
working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators
at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.


Don't you have a generator?


No, and in a crunch, I wouldn't want one. It draws the ire of too
many people, both from the noise and from the "You have power and we
don't; GIMME!" sides.


Serious point to keep in mind. Just as news of where there is
work, the sound of a genny set, or the smell of meat cooking, travels
- and attracts people. Hungry people who may lack the social
niceties.


--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."


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"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques on Thu, 27 Feb 2014
06:33:22 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

No, and in a crunch, I wouldn't want one. It draws the ire of too
many people, both from the noise and from the "You have power and we
don't; GIMME!" sides.


Serious point to keep in mind. Just as news of where there is
work, the sound of a genny set, or the smell of meat cooking,
travels
- and attracts people. Hungry people who may lack the social
niceties.


In at least one nearby town the sound of a generator attracts fire
inspectors.


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On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 06:05:18 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.

Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...


I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.


Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.

For my well I got tired of spiders or whatever falling in the water
and testing positive for e. coli. So I removed the typical cast
aluminum cap and added a couple tapped holes, one for chlorine and one
for a sintered bronze vent. I replaced the cap, sealed it to the
casing and sealed the wires going into the cap and since have had no
more bacteria problems. Surely you could remove your cap, bore it,
and then weld a pipe fitting of some sort to it.
Eric

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On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 17:12:47 -0600, Ignoramus18316
wrote:

On 2014-02-26, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus9393 wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

OK, a couple observations. 590 Lbs dry weight plus 91 gal of
water weighs 1318 Lbs! Can your floor take this weight?


The floor can, it is a concrete floor in the basement. But taking it
down to the basement will be a pain.

Second, can your flue take 199K BTU without burning down the house?


My furnace has a 6 inch flue. My current water heater has a 3 inch
flue, IIRC, and joins the 6" furnace flue very close to the heater.

My water heater has a 3" flue connection, I think. This thing needs
a 6" flue, and it burns more gas than the furnace on my 2600
sq. ft. house, which is 138K BTU, I think.


Yes, this is badass, 199,00 BTU.

What I hope is that I can use it to fill my inflatable pool with warm
water.

Third, it apparently needs electricity for the draft blower and
safety controls, so you get no hot water during a power failure.


That's OK, I am not worried, I can survive without hot water, and also
I have a well working 20 kW generator.

Thanks for your thoughtful input, this is exactly what I was looking
for.

i

Your 3/4" gas pipe into the house may not be large enough to supply
both the nfurnace and the water heater. At my last house I had to
change to a 1" pipe from the meter when I added a couple extra gas
appliances.
Eric

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Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 09:22:43 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm
working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators
at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.

Don't you have a generator?


No, and in a crunch, I wouldn't want one. It draws the ire of too
many people, both from the noise and from the "You have power and we
don't; GIMME!" sides.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams



Never had a problem with either type around here.

--
Steve W.
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"Jon Elson" wrote in message ...
Ignoramus9393 wrote:

I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

OK, a couple observations. 590 Lbs dry weight plus 91 gal of
water weighs 1318 Lbs! Can your floor take this weight?
Second, can your flue take 199K BTU without
burning down the house? My water heater has a 3" flue connection,
I think. This thing needs a 6" flue, and it burns more gas than the
furnace on my 2600 sq. ft. house, which is 138K BTU, I think. Third, it
apparently needs electricity for the draft blower and safety controls, so
you get no hot water during a power failure.


IIRC typical gas water heaters fall into the 40,000 btu range... IOW, his meter and gas piping is in all likelyhood WAY too small.

--


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