Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.


Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...


I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.
jsw


Sure, and when I was a kid a lot of people took a bath on Saturday
night. Saves even more water.
--
Cheers,

John B.
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Default Commercial water heater in home

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power
outage.

Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...


I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be
poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a
soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash
up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.
jsw


Sure, and when I was a kid a lot of people took a bath on Saturday
night. Saves even more water.
John B.


That made sense before central heat and antibiotics, when catching a
bug could kill you.


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Default Commercial water heater in home

On 2/25/2014 9:01 PM, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus9393 wrote:
I bought a used water heater at an auction (at a defunct Grainger
warehouse). Model G91-200-1.

Here's a link to this model's description:

http://www.grainger.com/product/RHEE...r-Heater-6E743

I bid on it without thinking too much, because it looked expensive. I
would like to ask if a heater like this can be used at my home.
My home water heater is old and needs to be replaced at some point,
and I thought that it would be a very nice high end replacement,
providing a lot of hot water.

The heater that I bought was installed in 2011.
How can I evaluate its condition (I know that it works, but this is
all I know), and generally can this be used at home? I am quite
ignorant about plumbing and water heaters, I only installed one of
them in my life (at my warehouse).
Thanks


i



91 gallons! Now that would be a great unit for an in floor heating system.

Heck, it might even make enough hot water to deal with my niece and her
45 minute showers...

To check it over you would drain it disconnect it and look inside with a
good light or better yet an inspection camera. As long as it isn't full
of crud and the anodes and such are good you're good to go.



Geez guys, the heater isn't even 3 years old yet, it would be pretty
unusual for it to have a problem. The tank is still under warranty!
Mikek
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Default Commercial water heater in home

On 2014-02-27, Larry Jaques wrote:

[ ... ]

Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage.


If it is deep enough to be using a submersible, you can't use a
suction pump at the top -- you would need a moving pump rod going down
to the piston and valves down at the bottom. (Anything over about 30
feet deep, at least.) Even with perfect seals all the way down from a
suction pump to the water you could pump all day at say 33 feet and not
get the water to come out. You would simply build a vacuum in the top
end of the pipe. :-)

If your big-city power generators at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.


Understood.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 09:29:40 -0800, wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 06:05:18 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.

Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...

I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.


Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.

For my well I got tired of spiders or whatever falling in the water
and testing positive for e. coli. So I removed the typical cast
aluminum cap and added a couple tapped holes, one for chlorine and one
for a sintered bronze vent. I replaced the cap, sealed it to the


I'm scratching my head over what a vent provides in a well. To allow
the level of the water to rise and fall, perhaps? My vent is plugged
with a 1/2" pipe cap, as are others I've seen. shrug


casing and sealed the wires going into the cap and since have had no
more bacteria problems. Surely you could remove your cap, bore it,
and then weld a pipe fitting of some sort to it.


No, I can't. The existing pipe hole is centered. I need a couple
off-centered holes, plus one for the wiring.

I have a split type like this:
http://tinyurl.com/ks6d7bn
There isn't room for an additional 1"+ pipe. The guys at the
irrigation supply asked if I had a liner. I don't know yet because it
means I'll have to:
1- Shut the power and water off and remove the union.
2- Loosen the seal and get a jack to lift the existing seal out along
with the submersible pump, pipe, wiring, and safety rope.
3- Remove the top fittings and replace the seal with the new one, once
I've measured all the goodies and found a new one, which may be a real
problem...

I'm waiting for a nice spring day to try this, but it's high on my
list of things to do.

I'm sure these are easily had at the well supply place, but they'll
certainly want $400 for a $30 cap/seal. sigh Effem!

Here's a sample pump the style I'm building.
http://tinyurl.com/lzmwya4

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams


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Default Commercial water heater in home

On 28 Feb 2014 04:57:21 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-02-27, Larry Jaques wrote:

[ ... ]

Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage.


If it is deep enough to be using a submersible, you can't use a
suction pump at the top -- you would need a moving pump rod going down
to the piston and valves down at the bottom. (Anything over about 30
feet deep, at least.) Even with perfect seals all the way down from a
suction pump to the water you could pump all day at say 33 feet and not
get the water to come out. You would simply build a vacuum in the top
end of the pipe. :-)


It's a pressure-style, Don. Raise the handle and it pulls water in
the bottom via the foot valve. PUsh the handle down and the check
valve in the center pipe stops the water, pushing it through the pipe.
That beats the 30' rule for vacuum lock. Simple and effective for up
to several hundred feet, depending on leverage. Mine will be down
about 40', in case my 26' level drops during a drought. (which we were
in but are getting lots or rain right now.)


--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams
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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 21:11:16 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power
outage.

Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...

I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be
poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a
soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash
up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.
jsw


Sure, and when I was a kid a lot of people took a bath on Saturday
night. Saves even more water.
John B.


That made sense before central heat and antibiotics, when catching a
bug could kill you.


And everybody smelled pretty ripe by Friday :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.
  #48   Report Post  
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Default Commercial water heater in home

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 21:11:16 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message
m...
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank,
he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power
outage.

Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...

I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be
poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a
soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash
up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.
jsw


Sure, and when I was a kid a lot of people took a bath on Saturday
night. Saves even more water.
John B.


That made sense before central heat and antibiotics, when catching a
bug could kill you.


And everybody smelled pretty ripe by Friday :-)

John B.


When I was a soldier in Europe I discovered that wasn't so bad for
cold, dry living spaces in winter. We spent two weeks in tents on a
snowy mountaintop radio relay site in December and weren't
particularly offensive when we were trucked en mass to a Kaserne for a
shower at the end of the exercise.


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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 22:18:46 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 09:29:40 -0800, wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 06:05:18 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
m...
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.

Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...

I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.

Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.

For my well I got tired of spiders or whatever falling in the water
and testing positive for e. coli. So I removed the typical cast
aluminum cap and added a couple tapped holes, one for chlorine and one
for a sintered bronze vent. I replaced the cap, sealed it to the


I'm scratching my head over what a vent provides in a well. To allow
the level of the water to rise and fall, perhaps? My vent is plugged
with a 1/2" pipe cap, as are others I've seen. shrug


casing and sealed the wires going into the cap and since have had no
more bacteria problems. Surely you could remove your cap, bore it,
and then weld a pipe fitting of some sort to it.


No, I can't. The existing pipe hole is centered. I need a couple
off-centered holes, plus one for the wiring.

I have a split type like this:
http://tinyurl.com/ks6d7bn
There isn't room for an additional 1"+ pipe. The guys at the
irrigation supply asked if I had a liner. I don't know yet because it
means I'll have to:
1- Shut the power and water off and remove the union.
2- Loosen the seal and get a jack to lift the existing seal out along
with the submersible pump, pipe, wiring, and safety rope.
3- Remove the top fittings and replace the seal with the new one, once
I've measured all the goodies and found a new one, which may be a real
problem...

I'm waiting for a nice spring day to try this, but it's high on my
list of things to do.

I'm sure these are easily had at the well supply place, but they'll
certainly want $400 for a $30 cap/seal. sigh Effem!

Here's a sample pump the style I'm building.
http://tinyurl.com/lzmwya4

The reason for the vent is that I have a plastic tube that runs down
into the water to show the level. This tube should be connected to a
pressure gauge but is not now. Anyway, I didn't know how a sealed well
would affect the pressure reading of the gauge and it was a simple
matter to tap the cap for the air filter. BTW, regarding e coli in the
water, the lab where I send my water sample said the test fo coliform
bacteria is so sensitive it will detect contamination from something
as small as a spider. It is not specific though. So the coliform
bacteria could be harmless to humans. Or not. The point is that if
even this tiny amount can be detected, and none is, your well is
probably not containing surface water or other contaminants, such as
septic water from a drainfield. My water pipe does not come out of the
top of the well casing, but instead goes out of the side. Below ground
level.
Eric

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Default Commercial water heater in home

On Fri, 28 Feb 2014 07:11:50 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 21:11:16 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message
om...
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank,
he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power
outage.

Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...

I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be
poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a
soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash
up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.
jsw


Sure, and when I was a kid a lot of people took a bath on Saturday
night. Saves even more water.
John B.

That made sense before central heat and antibiotics, when catching a
bug could kill you.


And everybody smelled pretty ripe by Friday :-)

John B.


When I was a soldier in Europe I discovered that wasn't so bad for
cold, dry living spaces in winter. We spent two weeks in tents on a
snowy mountaintop radio relay site in December and weren't
particularly offensive when we were trucked en mass to a Kaserne for a
shower at the end of the exercise.


Try working for a living :-)

When I was a lad I remember seeing people working in the woods
stripped down to their long underwear tops and the sweat running down
their face. That leaves you a bit odorous :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.
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