Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?
Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)
My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?

Thanks

George H.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.


My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?

Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I
sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you
get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden.
Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and
drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.


My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect
length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to
pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto
parts store?

Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the
impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.


Once you have the new stud you can try to match it to a standard
metric hex nut and a few metric or inch washers.
jsw

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

George H.
--

I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

Absolutely not! You want the force spread out to reduce friction and
allow all the power to pull the stud in. I've pressed in studs on
long axles sitting in a 5" vise, with the stud descending into an open
1/2" drive socket, so you know it doesn't take that much force.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )

I can imagine. g I used to be able to do it in well under an
hour, including writing up the ticket and pulling stock.

Jack up the wheel involved, remove wheel, remove 2 caliper bolts, pry
caliper cylinder 1/4" back into caliper and remove caliper, remove
rotor, hammer out stud, install stud, run up the nut on the washers,
remove nut, reinstall rotor, reinstall caliper, reinstall wheel, add
extra lug nut, hop in and hit the brakes several times to reseat the
caliper, close out the ticket, then give vehicle to the customer.
Piece of cake, duck soup.


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?

Yes. Wherever you got the capped lug nut and stud.


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

If you were trying to open the center hole in the washer, that would
do it. But it puts force into moving outward rather than down.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )

Probably an hour or 1.5 at most if you are new at it. And its cold.

Ive done it in less than 30 minutes to the time I was putting the
hubcap back on. But I have air tools.

Gunner


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

George H.
--

I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 2:44:19 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:



Absolutely not! You want the force spread out to reduce friction and

allow all the power to pull the stud in.


Within reasonable limits increasing the area does not reduce the friction.

From Marks Handbook, "Under moderate pressures the frictional force in proportional to the normal load on the rubbing surfaces. It is independent of the pressure per unit area of the surfaces."

It is not intuitively obvious.


Dan

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

George H.
--

I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!
You will need more than 2 washers unless you do what I do - and use
the rotor. Pop off the caliper, pop off the rotor, knock out the stus,
insert new stud from behind, install rotor backwards on hub, install a
couple greased washers and then install an open end lug nut, cone side
out and crank it down. Total job can be done in 15 minutes if you've
done it a few times - absolutely no more than an hour if you have the
nut, stud, washers, and grease as well as the required tools at hand.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw


Tubes


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 8:21:49 PM UTC-5, Jim Wilkins wrote:

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on

steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with

Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's

tires is slowly losing air along the bead.

jsw

On rims where looks were not important like your tractor tires, I have sanded and painted them.That gives a smooth surface to seal against.

Dan

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw

Pull the tire off the rim and get an air grider with a "prep pad" -
clean the entire bead - all the way around. Then treat it with a
conversion coating - phosphoric acid -then a coat of urethane paint.
Make sure the rubber bead is totally clean and lubricate with
vegetable soap - like GuGlyde, and reinstall the tire. Every 5 years
or so should do the trick - in other words every time you change
tires.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw


Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to prevent
heating the tube.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:12:19 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw


Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to prevent
heating the tube.


Must be one fast mothafricken lawn tractor!!


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 18:26:26 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:12:19 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
m...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw


Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to prevent
heating the tube.


Must be one fast mothafricken lawn tractor!!
He said one of his car tires is loosing air along the bead. On a lawn
tractor you can use anything that holds air - heat and ballance are
not an issue.
Slime cannot seal a bead leak - pretty useless on sidewalls too.
Pretty good on tread leaks but a good kevlar boot to prevent
puncturing the tube works even better for thorns etc.

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:12:19 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to
prevent
heating the tube.


Must be one fast mothafricken lawn tractor!!

It's faster than it should be. Since it has no suspension it can
bounce itself airborne where the steering and brakes don't work. I
tried chasing the kids around their ATV course fast enough to get air
over the jumps. I should have put the loader bucket on and put some
air under their jumps.

But the problem now is the SUV.

Clare suggested scrubbing and urethane paint. He also sent some
Canadian winter weather that makes painting outdoors unlikely. The
tractor's tires were glued on with something yellowish that made them
hell-owish to remove, even for a tire store after I gave up. Google
brings up other bead sealers. Is there a good simple balance between
difficult and effective?
jsw

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:12:19 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to
prevent
heating the tube.


Must be one fast mothafricken lawn tractor!!

It's faster than it should be. Since it has no suspension it can
bounce itself airborne where the steering and brakes don't work. I
tried chasing the kids around their ATV course fast enough to get air
over the jumps. I should have put the loader bucket on and put some
air under their jumps.

But the problem now is the SUV.

Clare suggested scrubbing and urethane paint. He also sent some
Canadian winter weather that makes painting outdoors unlikely. The
tractor's tires were glued on with something yellowish that made them
hell-owish to remove, even for a tire store after I gave up. Google
brings up other bead sealers. Is there a good simple balance between
difficult and effective?
jsw

Yellow stuff is trim adhesive - a "solution of last resort" for guys
who don't know how to do things right. - or weather-strip adhesive.
Both work for a few weeks.

And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all
places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over the
last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake
Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a
"splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that do
a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep
disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both alloy
and steel rims.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all
places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over
the
last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake
Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a
"splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that
do
a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep
disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both
alloy
and steel rims.

Thanks, latex is safer than urethane to apply indoors near a wood
stove. Is your 'prep disk' a reddish Scotchbrite pad?
jsw

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 23:01:15 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all
places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over
the
last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake
Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a
"splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that
do
a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep
disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both
alloy
and steel rims.

Thanks, latex is safer than urethane to apply indoors near a wood
stove. Is your 'prep disk' a reddish Scotchbrite pad?
jsw

red , purple, or brown - the green ones are a bit too fine.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:58:53 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.

You will need more than 2 washers unless you do what I do - and use

No, you won't. They're generally threaded all the way down to the
splines, which seldom protrude past the hub.

Here are pics from Google for 2002 Toys: http://tinyurl.com/mbguhg4

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.

Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.

TIP: Never buy a -small- bottle of Slime. The big one is much cheaper
per ounce, and you'll always find a wheel which needs it. Just maybe
not this week.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 18:26:26 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:12:19 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
m...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw


Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to prevent
heating the tube.


Must be one fast mothafricken lawn tractor!!

Vroom, vroom! Love that sound. Even on a mower.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrQesU1xrxI

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:12:19 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to
prevent
heating the tube.


Must be one fast mothafricken lawn tractor!!

It's faster than it should be. Since it has no suspension it can
bounce itself airborne where the steering and brakes don't work. I
tried chasing the kids around their ATV course fast enough to get air
over the jumps. I should have put the loader bucket on and put some
air under their jumps.

But the problem now is the SUV.

Clare suggested scrubbing and urethane paint. He also sent some
Canadian winter weather that makes painting outdoors unlikely. The
tractor's tires were glued on with something yellowish that made them
hell-owish to remove, even for a tire store after I gave up. Google
brings up other bead sealers. Is there a good simple balance between
difficult and effective?

If you want to pop the beads, try cleaning both the tire bead and rim,
and then use some regular rubber cement. It's the only thing I've
seen work on rusted beads.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 22:32:36 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:12:19 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to
prevent
heating the tube.


Must be one fast mothafricken lawn tractor!!

It's faster than it should be. Since it has no suspension it can
bounce itself airborne where the steering and brakes don't work. I
tried chasing the kids around their ATV course fast enough to get air
over the jumps. I should have put the loader bucket on and put some
air under their jumps.

But the problem now is the SUV.

Clare suggested scrubbing and urethane paint. He also sent some
Canadian winter weather that makes painting outdoors unlikely. The
tractor's tires were glued on with something yellowish that made them
hell-owish to remove, even for a tire store after I gave up. Google
brings up other bead sealers. Is there a good simple balance between
difficult and effective?
jsw

Yellow stuff is trim adhesive - a "solution of last resort" for guys
who don't know how to do things right. - or weather-strip adhesive.
Both work for a few weeks.

Right, Elephant Snot! But that's absolutely -Hell- to remove.


And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all
places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over the
last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake
Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a
"splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

We got snow last Friday and it still isn't gone. I'm missing days of
work and it sucks the big one. grumble, grumble Work's hard enough
to get in Winter here as it is.


As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that do
a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep
disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both alloy
and steel rims.

As are most Scotchbrite pads, on the manual end.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

wrote:
On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 8:21:49 PM UTC-5, Jim Wilkins wrote:

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.

jsw


Break the bead on that side. If it's a steel rim take a STIFF wire brush
to the rust and scale on the bead. Brush on a coat of "rusty metal
primer" then a coat of rustoleum type paint. Then while the paint is
still sticky re-inflate the tire and seat the bead.

If it's aluminum it is a bit more difficult. Basically you do the same
steps, BUT the aluminum will probably be VERY pitted. For that grab a
can of bead sealer (usually at the commercial counter of your local
FLAPS) Runs about 12 bucks for a large can. Apply a coat to the rim and
a coat to the tire. It is basically rubber cement with a binder added.
Re-Inflate and the leak should be gone.

Now IF you wanted to do it the best way and don't want to buy new rims:
Dismount the tires, bead blast the bead areas to remove all the crud,
then TIG up the bad areas and file/sand them back to smooth. Spray with
the proper paing and re-assemble.

As far as lawn tractor stuff. Tube them. BUT clean the rim very well
first, if you used slime be prepared to replace the rims, that stuff
rots steel worse than salt water....


--
Steve W.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:12:19 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:57:29 -0800, Gunner Asch

wrote:

Tubes
If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires.
Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about
65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to
prevent
heating the tube.


Must be one fast mothafricken lawn tractor!!

It's faster than it should be. Since it has no suspension it can
bounce itself airborne where the steering and brakes don't work. I
tried chasing the kids around their ATV course fast enough to get air
over the jumps. I should have put the loader bucket on and put some
air under their jumps.

But the problem now is the SUV.

Clare suggested scrubbing and urethane paint. He also sent some
Canadian winter weather that makes painting outdoors unlikely. The
tractor's tires were glued on with something yellowish that made them
hell-owish to remove, even for a tire store after I gave up. Google
brings up other bead sealers. Is there a good simple balance between
difficult and effective?
jsw


Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
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On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:28:03 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:58:53 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.

You will need more than 2 washers unless you do what I do - and use

No, you won't. They're generally threaded all the way down to the
splines, which seldom protrude past the hub.

Here are pics from Google for 2002 Toys: http://tinyurl.com/mbguhg4
A lot of them are not threaded where they go through the rotor, which
is thicker than 2 of most washers.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:31:13 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.

Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.

TIP: Never buy a -small- bottle of Slime. The big one is much cheaper
per ounce, and you'll always find a wheel which needs it. Just maybe
not this week.
When the slime freezes at the bottom of the tire when parked, it
makes for an awfull rough ride untill it thaws and redistributes.

On 12/12/13 05:31, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.

Worth pulling the tyre off and checking for damage. I had a number of
flats when pulling out of the drive a turning sharp left and parking to
clear the drive, I'd come back and find the tyre flat. When the tyre was
pulled the bead was damaged which could only have happened at the
fitters so I went back to them, they looked up the fitment record as I
couldn't find the receipt, and they gave me a new tyre and fitted it, no
more problems.


TIP: Never buy a -small- bottle of Slime. The big one is much cheaper
per ounce, and you'll always find a wheel which needs it. Just maybe
not this week.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 23:01:15 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all
places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over
the
last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake
Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a
"splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that
do
a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep
disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both
alloy
and steel rims.

Thanks, latex is safer than urethane to apply indoors near a wood
stove. Is your 'prep disk' a reddish Scotchbrite pad?
jsw

red , purple, or brown - the green ones are a bit too fine.


I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the built-up crud
off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat polished surface both on
the lip and the adjacent surface is the key . Gotta do the wheelbarrow ...
oh , and if there's any crud like rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself
, that's gotta be cleaned up too .
--
Snag



---
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On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:34:06 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:31:13 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.

Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.

TIP: Never buy a -small- bottle of Slime. The big one is much cheaper
per ounce, and you'll always find a wheel which needs it. Just maybe
not this week.
When the slime freezes at the bottom of the tire when parked, it
makes for an awfull rough ride untill it thaws and redistributes.

I wouldn't know. I last mowed my lawn 3 weeks ago, before the first
freeze. It'll sit there and rot for months now, thankfully.

--
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud
was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.
-- Anaïs Nin

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:04:08 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 12/12/13 05:31, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.

Worth pulling the tyre off and checking for damage. I had a number of
flats when pulling out of the drive a turning sharp left and parking to
clear the drive, I'd come back and find the tyre flat. When the tyre was
pulled the bead was damaged which could only have happened at the
fitters so I went back to them, they looked up the fitment record as I
couldn't find the receipt, and they gave me a new tyre and fitted it, no
more problems.

They obviously forgot to lube the tire when putting it on the rim.
It's nice that they repaired their mistake at the correct price.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:32:42 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:28:03 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:58:53 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.

You will need more than 2 washers unless you do what I do - and use

No, you won't. They're generally threaded all the way down to the
splines, which seldom protrude past the hub.

Here are pics from Google for 2002 Toys: http://tinyurl.com/mbguhg4
A lot of them are not threaded where they go through the rotor, which
is thicker than 2 of most washers.

Granted, I've been away from the industry for nearly 30 years, but I'd
very seldom seen any protrude much at all from the rim. There's no
need and it costs extra money for the extra meat, so most are properly
designed. I'll bow to your more current knowledge. (grudgingly, tho.)


--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
.............

Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the
tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has
consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and
ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old
module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the
Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and
vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger
books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of
onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic
trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the
customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle
I saw with a scope.

I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine
controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure
their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the
manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open
when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I
machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power
steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At
least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck
keeps getting newer as I replace parts.
jsw

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:08:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
.............

Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the
tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has
consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and
ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old
module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

So, engineers have finally figured a way to put the "shotgunning" into
code for electronic troubleshooting, did they? It must have been
those pesky used-car engineers, huh?


When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the
Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and
vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger
books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of
onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic
trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the
customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle
I saw with a scope.

Hmm...


I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine
controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure
their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the
manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open
when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I
machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power
steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At
least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck
keeps getting newer as I replace parts.

But you saved a lot of money buying it, right? wink

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On 12/12/13 13:27, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:04:08 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 12/12/13 05:31, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.
Worth pulling the tyre off and checking for damage. I had a number of
flats when pulling out of the drive a turning sharp left and parking to
clear the drive, I'd come back and find the tyre flat. When the tyre was
pulled the bead was damaged which could only have happened at the
fitters so I went back to them, they looked up the fitment record as I
couldn't find the receipt, and they gave me a new tyre and fitted it, no
more problems.
They obviously forgot to lube the tire when putting it on the rim.
It's nice that they repaired their mistake at the correct price.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!
They did lube it actually as I always watch them when they're fitting
the tyres, somehow the fitting tool caught the bead and sought of tore
it and that bit got jammed in, enough side pressure at that point such
as in a tight low speed turn and it leaked.

"David Billington" wrote in message
...

Worth pulling the tyre off and checking for damage. I had a number
of flats when pulling out of the drive a turning sharp left and
parking to clear the drive, I'd come back and find the tyre flat.
When the tyre was pulled the bead was damaged which could only have
happened at the fitters so I went back to them, they looked up the
fitment record as I couldn't find the receipt, and they gave me a
new tyre and fitted it, no more problems.


The same happened to me on the tractor. The tire shop didn't have a
machine the right size and pried off the glued tires with irons. After
examining the rusted 1980's rims and the gouged beads, I just put in
tubes. Brushing on Slime before mounting the tire didn't help.

The Harbor Freight mini manual tire changer turns an impossible job
into a very difficult one.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...terTire003.jpg
The cast aluminum handle is known to break, and while they will
replace it they won't rush you one while you have the vehicle
immobilized on a jack. I added two steel reinforcing straps on the
outside.
jsw

"Snag" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 23:01:15 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the
built-up crud off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat
polished surface both on the lip and the adjacent surface is the key
. Gotta do the wheelbarrow ... oh , and if there's any crud like
rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself , that's gotta be cleaned
up too .
--
Snag

I can knock the rust off, but was hoping to find a clean and polished
surface in a can.
jsw

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:56:08 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Snag" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 23:01:15 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the
built-up crud off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat
polished surface both on the lip and the adjacent surface is the key
. Gotta do the wheelbarrow ... oh , and if there's any crud like
rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself , that's gotta be cleaned
up too .
--
Snag

I can knock the rust off, but was hoping to find a clean and polished
surface in a can.

g Well, I suppose that's possible.

Look to a can of sand called a "sandblaster", sir. It's a spray-on
but isn't a rattle can.

--
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud
was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.
-- Anaïs Nin