Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?
Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)
My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?

Thanks

George H.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.


My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?

Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I
sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you
get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden.
Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and
drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.


My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect
length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to
pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto
parts store?

Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the
impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.


Once you have the new stud you can try to match it to a standard
metric hex nut and a few metric or inch washers.
jsw

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

George H.
--

I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

Absolutely not! You want the force spread out to reduce friction and
allow all the power to pull the stud in. I've pressed in studs on
long axles sitting in a 5" vise, with the stud descending into an open
1/2" drive socket, so you know it doesn't take that much force.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 2:44:19 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:



Absolutely not! You want the force spread out to reduce friction and

allow all the power to pull the stud in.


Within reasonable limits increasing the area does not reduce the friction.

From Marks Handbook, "Under moderate pressures the frictional force in proportional to the normal load on the rubbing surfaces. It is independent of the pressure per unit area of the surfaces."

It is not intuitively obvious.


Dan

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )

I can imagine. g I used to be able to do it in well under an
hour, including writing up the ticket and pulling stock.

Jack up the wheel involved, remove wheel, remove 2 caliper bolts, pry
caliper cylinder 1/4" back into caliper and remove caliper, remove
rotor, hammer out stud, install stud, run up the nut on the washers,
remove nut, reinstall rotor, reinstall caliper, reinstall wheel, add
extra lug nut, hop in and hit the brakes several times to reseat the
caliper, close out the ticket, then give vehicle to the customer.
Piece of cake, duck soup.


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?

Yes. Wherever you got the capped lug nut and stud.


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

If you were trying to open the center hole in the washer, that would
do it. But it puts force into moving outward rather than down.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )

Probably an hour or 1.5 at most if you are new at it. And its cold.

Ive done it in less than 30 minutes to the time I was putting the
hubcap back on. But I have air tools.

Gunner


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

George H.
--

I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.
Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

George H.
--

I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!
You will need more than 2 washers unless you do what I do - and use
the rotor. Pop off the caliper, pop off the rotor, knock out the stus,
insert new stud from behind, install rotor backwards on hub, install a
couple greased washers and then install an open end lug nut, cone side
out and crank it down. Total job can be done in 15 minutes if you've
done it a few times - absolutely no more than an hour if you have the
nut, stud, washers, and grease as well as the required tools at hand.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw


Tubes


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 8:21:49 PM UTC-5, Jim Wilkins wrote:

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on

steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with

Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's

tires is slowly losing air along the bead.

jsw

On rims where looks were not important like your tractor tires, I have sanded and painted them.That gives a smooth surface to seal against.

Dan

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
jsw

Pull the tire off the rim and get an air grider with a "prep pad" -
clean the entire bead - all the way around. Then treat it with a
conversion coating - phosphoric acid -then a coat of urethane paint.
Make sure the rubber bead is totally clean and lubricate with
vegetable soap - like GuGlyde, and reinstall the tire. Every 5 years
or so should do the trick - in other words every time you change
tires.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.

Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.

TIP: Never buy a -small- bottle of Slime. The big one is much cheaper
per ounce, and you'll always find a wheel which needs it. Just maybe
not this week.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:58:53 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.

You will need more than 2 washers unless you do what I do - and use

No, you won't. They're generally threaded all the way down to the
splines, which seldom protrude past the hub.

Here are pics from Google for 2002 Toys: http://tinyurl.com/mbguhg4

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:28:03 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:58:53 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:05:21 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:42:27 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi guys, Putting the (front) snow tires on my 2002 Corolla I sheared off a stud.
Apparently this is fairly easy to fix. But I've never done it.
Two questions.
Do I need to take off the Brake calipers and rotor?

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get
the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without
dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise,
it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes,
you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes
the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift
punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )


Second any tricks for pulling the new stud.
(what do I pull against?)

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

My lug nuts are capped, so it seems like I'll need the perfect length of cylinder (going over the stud and contacting the wheel) to pull against.. maybe I should get an uncapped lug nut at the auto parts store?


Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is
against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is
extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you
can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact
gun to press it in via the threaded stud.

You will need more than 2 washers unless you do what I do - and use

No, you won't. They're generally threaded all the way down to the
splines, which seldom protrude past the hub.

Here are pics from Google for 2002 Toys: http://tinyurl.com/mbguhg4
A lot of them are not threaded where they go through the rotor, which
is thicker than 2 of most washers.