When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

TIA

--
F

(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

F wrote:

When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

Perfect job for a mole wrench, which has sprung jaws so it will grip
much more firmly than you can with pliers. Available at B&Q, Halfords
etc etc

David

On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 17:37:22 +0000, F wrote:

When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.


Can you drill them out?

"F" wrote in message
...
When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

I have summat like this, has always done the trick when needed.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LASER-PIECE-...4546610&sr=8-1

Or

http://tinyurl.com/2kq27x

R D S wrote:
"F" wrote in message
...
When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

I have summat like this, has always done the trick when needed.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LASER-PIECE-...4546610&sr=8-1

What is it?!! The Amazon pic's so crappy you can't see what's at the
business end.

David

"Lobster" wrote in message
news
R D S wrote:
"F" wrote in message
...
When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

I have summat like this, has always done the trick when needed.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LASER-PIECE-...4546610&sr=8-1

What is it?!! The Amazon pic's so crappy you can't see what's at the
business end.


It's like a 'wrong way round' drill, gets a purchase on the crappy screw and
turns it out, a sort of flatter version of a stud extractor.

"Lobster" wrote in message
news
What is it?!! The Amazon pic's so crappy you can't see what's at the
business end.


Similar to this http://www.jmldirect.com/Screw-Extractor-PS5616/

John

On 08/11/2007 18:33 R D S wrote:

I have summat like this, has always done the trick when needed.

http://tinyurl.com/2kq27x

Sadly, there's no head on the screw, just a stub of the shanks sticking
out from the surface of the door.

--
F

(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

On 08/11/2007 18:27 Maria wrote:

Can you drill them out?

No, just a 3-4mm stub sticking up beyond the surface of the door.

--
F

(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

F wrote:
When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are
shearing off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't
grip them firmly enough.


Rule number one, always bin the screws supplied & use your own decent ones.
Smal pair of mole grips is what I use.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On 08/11/2007 18:25 Lobster wrote:

Perfect job for a mole wrench

I'll give it a try but there's only 3-4mm to get a grip on. Should've
tried that first before I tried gripping it hard with the pliers and
ending up with an excruciating pain in my hand/wrist!

--
F

(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

F wrote:
On 08/11/2007 18:25 Lobster wrote:

Perfect job for a mole wrench

I'll give it a try but there's only 3-4mm to get a grip on. Should've
tried that first before I tried gripping it hard with the pliers and
ending up with an excruciating pain in my hand/wrist!

That's plenty. They can't be stuck *that* hard; they are only into timber.

David

On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 17:37:22 +0000, F wrote:

When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

TIA

===================================
Use a plug cutter and fill the resulting holes with dowels or plugs:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...35920&ts=51145

http://tinyurl.com/2pmqex

Cic.

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

Lobster wrote:

That's plenty. They can't be stuck *that* hard; they are only into timber.


Are these screws screwed into the metal bar that passes through the door?

--
Adrian C

Adrian C wrote:
Lobster wrote:

That's plenty. They can't be stuck *that* hard; they are only into
timber.


Are these screws screwed into the metal bar that passes through the door?


Scrap that.... pointless post.

--
Adrian C

HI

On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 19:42:47 +0000, F wrote:

On 08/11/2007 18:25 Lobster wrote:

Perfect job for a mole wrench

I'll give it a try but there's only 3-4mm to get a grip on. Should've
tried that first before I tried gripping it hard with the pliers and
ending up with an excruciating pain in my hand/wrist!

Something that's worked for me in the past, though it can be a bit of
a fiddle, is to grip the stub of the broken screw in the chuck of the
cordless screwdriver. Then run the driver in reverse to extract the
screw....

Depends how good the chuck is - but can work well

Adrian

On 08/11/2007 19:48 Lobster wrote:

They can't be stuck *that* hard; they are only into timber.

They are, believe me, they are! And they're the cheapo egg carton and
embossed hardboard type.

--
F

(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

"R D S" wrote in message
...
"F" wrote in message
...
When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

I have summat like this, has always done the trick when needed.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LASER-PIECE-...4546610&sr=8-1

Or

http://tinyurl.com/2kq27x



These are like stud extractors .. OK if you have the head of screw there and
it drills itself into head, gets wedged and extracts the screw.
No good when there is no head and only a stub as per post.

I use end nippers, they will usually grip OK ... failing that drill it out,
and plug.

F wrote:
When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are
shearing off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't
grip them firmly enough.

TIA

F,

A simple way is to carefully pare away a small amoount of wood from around
the top screw shank and then use the corner of a *proper* [1] pair of
'carpenters' pincers to grip the exposed end and turn - do this carefully
and it will leave the existing screw hole usable and the handle covers any
slight damage.

[1] If possible, get the ones that don't have a bevelled 'cutting' edge as
they are far more efficient at gripping in this situation (The seem all but
impossible to get these days).

As a matter of interest, pliar and mole grips are almost useless when there
is minimal thread showing - along with trying to 'drill' them out as the
remains of the screw shank is too thin. But they can be used once you have
made a few turns using the pincer method - and will be easier to do so then.

Brian G

In article ,
F wrote:

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.


I've managed to get one like this out by using a dremel to cut a slot in the
top of the stub and then use a big flat blade screwdriver to unscrew it.

Heating the remaining bit of screw up with something (I used a big soldering
iron) helped as well.

I've also had success with molegrips (decent ones mind...)

Darren

On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 17:37:22 +0000, F wrote:

When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

TIA
drill a 3mm hole into the timber tight against the broken screw
now gently knock the screw into said hole with a hammer and nail punch
or similar
this should loosen the screw enough to get it out with a pair of
pincers
if you reuse the handles you wont see any damage




yorik

F wrote:
On 08/11/2007 18:33 R D S wrote:

I have summat like this, has always done the trick when needed.

http://tinyurl.com/2kq27x

Sadly, there's no head on the screw, just a stub of the shanks
sticking out from the surface of the door.

Mole grips? Shark pry bar would probably do it
http://www.amazon.com/Shark-21-2225-.../dp/B0000224TY the
nail puller is hardened to bite into the shank. B&Q sell them.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 18:25:23 GMT, Lobster
wrote:

F wrote:

When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.

Perfect job for a mole wrench, which has sprung jaws so it will grip
much more firmly than you can with pliers.

Can you still get real Mole wrenches? I have one, but I haven't seen
the real thing in shops for many a year.

All the ersatz ones I've come across have been very poor, both in
effectiveness and finish (and probably longevity).

Available at B&Q, Halfords

Are they?
--
Frank Erskine

On Thu, 8 Nov 2007 23:27:28 UTC, Frank Erskine
wrote:

Can you still get real Mole wrenches? I have one, but I haven't seen
the real thing in shops for many a year.

All the ersatz ones I've come across have been very poor, both in
effectiveness and finish (and probably longevity).

Yes, I was given one of those (never had a real one, my Dad did but my
brother in law snaffled all his tools).

I remember using it one day...as usual, you close it around the item, do
up the screw, take it off, do up the screw a bit more and then clamp it
back on. It wasn't gripping so I did up the screw a bit more, then
squeezed hard to clamp it. The whole handle crumpled.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...

snip

Can you still get real Mole wrenches? I have one, but I haven't seen
the real thing in shops for many a year.

All the ersatz ones I've come across have been very poor, both in
effectiveness and finish (and probably longevity).

imho genuine Mole wrenches are a vastly inferior product to Vise Grips.
The release mechanism is more awkward, and the "fixed" jaw is only
riveted to the body. My genuine Mole is relegated to use as a welding
clamp or a "hell, where's the decent one gone?" role. They're both
around 40 years old, but the jaw on the genuine one was brazed back on
35 years ago, when a BMC 1100 subframe presented too great a challenge
to its rivet.


--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***

"F" wrote in message
...
When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are
shearing off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Learn the lesson for the future and grease the screws first. Even
consider pilot holes instead of just using bfi to get the screws in (see
various threads, passim)
--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***

On Nov 8, 5:37 pm, F wrote:
When I replaced all of our internal doors I used my cordless driver to
insert and tighten the screws on the handles. Now I'm removing the
handles prior to repainting the doors, and using a screwdriver rather
than the cordless to do so, I'm finding some of the screws are shearing
off and leaving just a small stub sticking out of the door.

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the stubs? Pliers just won't grip
them firmly enough.


heat them up with a big soldering iron to char the wood around them.
then try again.

Robert

On 09/11/2007 08:12 Autolycus wrote:

Learn the lesson for the future and grease the screws first.

Don't worry, I've learnt!

Even
consider pilot holes instead of just using bfi

Hey! Less of the i! But, yes, the cordless was pretty brutal and fast,
but I'm paying for it now.

--
F

(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

On 08/11/2007 23:03 The Medway Handyman wrote:


Shark pry bar would probably do it
http://www.amazon.com/Shark-21-2225-.../dp/B0000224TY the
nail puller is hardened to bite into the shank. B&Q sell them.

I'll try a couple of the other suggestions and then, if needed, pay B&Q
a visit: it's an hour round trip.

--
F

(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

On Thu, 8 Nov 2007 20:32:43 -0000, "Brian G" wrote:


[1] If possible, get the ones that don't have a bevelled 'cutting' edge as
they are far more efficient at gripping in this situation (The seem all but
impossible to get these days).
I ground one side of mine to give a flush edge - mostly use that side - but kept
the other side the original shape "just in case".

Geo