Awl--

One of the follies I'm building req's fastening to a door buck/jamb.

Wood door jambs are no problem, as all my device requires is a
flat-head-type screw for installation.

Metal doorbucks would seem to be as simple, as flat-heat sheetmetal screws
are no problem.

But are std sheetmetal screws the best choice for metal doorbucks (16 ga, I
assume?) ?
I recall "chassis screws", which were like 32-pitch machine screws w/ a tap
on the end! Somehow these seem more reliable to me. Opinions? I haven't
seen these in years, tho.

I'm also thinking sheetmetal screws w/ a larger major to minor diam ratio
would hold better (deck screws vs. sheetrock screws?), but I don't know
what's generally available.

Since in sheetmetal there's not a lot really grabbing the screw, in addition
to pullout, I worry about "shakeout", which mebbe a silicon-rubber sealant
type deal would fix, whilst still rendering the screw removeable. Loctite,
I think, needs more thread-to-material contact.

The real bummer are these metal bucks filled w/ concrete!!! Goodgawd....
I've seen something called TapCon screws which can sposedly thread into a
pilot hole drilled in concrete. Anyone familiar w/ these? I hope I can
find them as small as #10 or even #8.

Iny ideas, leads, sources would be much appreciated.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

Tapcons should be available in most hardware stores. They work very well
when you drill the proper size hole. Only PITA for your application would be
drilling through the steel with one drill bit and then through the concrete
with a masonry bit.
--
Peter DiVergilio
Most of the money I've wasted was mostly spent trying to impress people who
were never going to like me anyway!

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
| Awl--
|
| One of the follies I'm building req's fastening to a door buck/jamb.
|
| Wood door jambs are no problem, as all my device requires is a
| flat-head-type screw for installation.
|
| Metal doorbucks would seem to be as simple, as flat-heat sheetmetal screws
| are no problem.
|
| But are std sheetmetal screws the best choice for metal doorbucks (16 ga,
I
| assume?) ?
| I recall "chassis screws", which were like 32-pitch machine screws w/ a
tap
| on the end! Somehow these seem more reliable to me. Opinions? I haven't
| seen these in years, tho.
|
| I'm also thinking sheetmetal screws w/ a larger major to minor diam ratio
| would hold better (deck screws vs. sheetrock screws?), but I don't know
| what's generally available.
|
| Since in sheetmetal there's not a lot really grabbing the screw, in
addition
| to pullout, I worry about "shakeout", which mebbe a silicon-rubber sealant
| type deal would fix, whilst still rendering the screw removeable.
Loctite,
| I think, needs more thread-to-material contact.
|
| The real bummer are these metal bucks filled w/ concrete!!! Goodgawd....
| I've seen something called TapCon screws which can sposedly thread into a
| pilot hole drilled in concrete. Anyone familiar w/ these? I hope I can
| find them as small as #10 or even #8.
|
| Iny ideas, leads, sources would be much appreciated.
| ----------------------------
| Mr. P.V.'d
| formerly Droll Troll
|
|

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
| Awl--
|
| One of the follies I'm building req's fastening to a door buck/jamb.
|
SNIP

| The real bummer are these metal bucks filled w/ concrete!!! Goodgawd....
| I've seen something called TapCon screws which can sposedly thread into a
| pilot hole drilled in concrete. Anyone familiar w/ these? I hope I can
| find them as small as #10 or even #8.
|
| Iny ideas, leads, sources would be much appreciated.
| ----------------------------
| Mr. P.V.'d
| formerly Droll Troll

I was just thinking about how f'd you'd be if you stripped out the
threads in a metal door jam and couldn't easily fix it. With concrete in
it, I'd have to give the chances of long term success much better odds.
Tapcons will do a good job, but my experience is a bit limited. It
won't do well on concrete that's really old. The fresher the better. They
come with a hex head with built in washer, and you had better have a good
driver socket for it, as it will have to take a beating. I recently
discovered stainless ones, but they're a lot softer than the blue ones.