On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 14:35:53 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 12/12/13 13:27, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:04:08 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 12/12/13 05:31, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.
Worth pulling the tyre off and checking for damage. I had a number of
flats when pulling out of the drive a turning sharp left and parking to
clear the drive, I'd come back and find the tyre flat. When the tyre was
pulled the bead was damaged which could only have happened at the
fitters so I went back to them, they looked up the fitment record as I
couldn't find the receipt, and they gave me a new tyre and fitted it, no
more problems.
They obviously forgot to lube the tire when putting it on the rim.
It's nice that they repaired their mistake at the correct price.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!
They did lube it actually as I always watch them when they're fitting
the tyres, somehow the fitting tool caught the bead and sought of tore
it and that bit got jammed in, enough side pressure at that point such
as in a tight low speed turn and it leaked.

That means one of two things. Either the installer didn't drop the
first section of the bead below the seating rim, or the rim (or tire)
was improperly designed.


--
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud
was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.
-- Anaïs Nin

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:06:20 -0600, "Snag" wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 23:01:15 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all
places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over
the
last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake
Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a
"splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that
do
a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep
disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both
alloy
and steel rims.

Thanks, latex is safer than urethane to apply indoors near a wood
stove. Is your 'prep disk' a reddish Scotchbrite pad?
jsw

red , purple, or brown - the green ones are a bit too fine.


I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the built-up crud
off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat polished surface both on
the lip and the adjacent surface is the key . Gotta do the wheelbarrow ...
oh , and if there's any crud like rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself
, that's gotta be cleaned up too .

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:08:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

So, engineers have finally figured a way to put the "shotgunning"
into
code for electronic troubleshooting, did they? It must have been
those pesky used-car engineers, huh?

In 1970 I went into an Army course on repairing -very- complex
electronics. They told us that there was a troubleshooting procedure
but they had found that having repairmen memorize how the circuits
work (in excruciating detail) was more effective, plus we wouldn't
have to carry around and risk losing the manuals which were
classified.

At that time the draft gave them a large enough pool of engineering
grads to make it practical. After the draft ended they had to revert
to board-swapping. The 40-week course gave them four graduates out of
almost 100 starters. The others were allowed to enter less demanding
courses.
http://schroeder-family.us/military.htm

After I got out I went into the custom test equipment industry,
specifically for the first generation of automotive engine control
electronics and antilock brakes, and found out how hard it is to
identify faults without adding excessive monitoring circuitry which
has an equal chance of failing. You can detect a lot of problems
easily by measuring the power supply current, for example, but an
out-of-spec value doesn't tell you what caused it.


When I bought the shop manuals for it ...

But you saved a lot of money buying it, right? wink

I figure the depreciation cost on a newer vehicle would be $1000 -
$2000 a year, so I'm ahead if I spend less than that per year on an
old one. Most years nothing breaks.
jsw

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:08:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
.............

Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the
tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has
consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and
ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old
module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the
Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and
vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger
books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of
onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic
trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the
customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle
I saw with a scope.

I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine
controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure
their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the
manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open
when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I
machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power
steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At
least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck
keeps getting newer as I replace parts.
jsw

Restoration !! Soon it will be worth more than its scrap value!!

(been there, done that..more than once)

(It costs more than buying a newer truck..but..it takes smaller bites
out of ones pocket every month....)



--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:53:30 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:56:08 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Snag" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 23:01:15 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the
built-up crud off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat
polished surface both on the lip and the adjacent surface is the key
. Gotta do the wheelbarrow ... oh , and if there's any crud like
rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself , that's gotta be cleaned
up too .
--
Snag

I can knock the rust off, but was hoping to find a clean and polished
surface in a can.

http://old.testmy.net/t-17284



g Well, I suppose that's possible.

Look to a can of sand called a "sandblaster", sir. It's a spray-on
but isn't a rattle can.

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
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Gunner Asch on Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:03:49 -0800
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:08:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
.............

Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the
tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has
consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and
ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old
module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the
Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and
vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger
books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of
onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic
trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the
customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle
I saw with a scope.

I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine
controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure
their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the
manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open
when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I
machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power
steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At
least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck
keeps getting newer as I replace parts.
jsw

Restoration !! Soon it will be worth more than its scrap value!!

(been there, done that..more than once)

(It costs more than buying a newer truck..but..it takes smaller bites
out of ones pocket every month....)

"Time to replace the truck. Now, do we do it all at once, or one
part at a time?"
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:56:08 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 14:35:53 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 12/12/13 13:27, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:04:08 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

On 12/12/13 05:31, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:21:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 10:23:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on
steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with
Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's
tires is slowly losing air along the bead.
Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to
allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of
my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and
find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.
Worth pulling the tyre off and checking for damage. I had a number of
flats when pulling out of the drive a turning sharp left and parking to
clear the drive, I'd come back and find the tyre flat. When the tyre was
pulled the bead was damaged which could only have happened at the
fitters so I went back to them, they looked up the fitment record as I
couldn't find the receipt, and they gave me a new tyre and fitted it, no
more problems.
They obviously forgot to lube the tire when putting it on the rim.
It's nice that they repaired their mistake at the correct price.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!
They did lube it actually as I always watch them when they're fitting
the tyres, somehow the fitting tool caught the bead and sought of tore
it and that bit got jammed in, enough side pressure at that point such
as in a tight low speed turn and it leaked.

That means one of two things. Either the installer didn't drop the
first section of the bead below the seating rim, or the rim (or tire)
was improperly designed.
Most likely an untrained labourer installing the tires.

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:00:53 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:06:20 -0600, "Snag" wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 23:01:15 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all
places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over
the
last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake
Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a
"splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that
do
a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep
disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both
alloy
and steel rims.

Thanks, latex is safer than urethane to apply indoors near a wood
stove. Is your 'prep disk' a reddish Scotchbrite pad?
jsw

red , purple, or brown - the green ones are a bit too fine.


I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the built-up crud
off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat polished surface both on
the lip and the adjacent surface is the key . Gotta do the wheelbarrow ...
oh , and if there's any crud like rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself
, that's gotta be cleaned up too .

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner
replace them. Aluminum fatigues.

wrote in message
...

I took the wheel to a tire dealer who sanded the rim and rebalanced it
for $25. He said your urethane paint suggestion was the right way, but
no shop would go to that much trouble. (so don't ask)
jsw

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 17:32:08 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .

I took the wheel to a tire dealer who sanded the rim and rebalanced it
for $25. He said your urethane paint suggestion was the right way, but
no shop would go to that much trouble. (so don't ask)
jsw

I used to do it for customers who were willing to pay the price. No
guarantee on any other "fix".

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 10:08:55 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:03:49 -0800
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:08:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
.............

Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the
tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has
consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and
ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old
module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the
Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and
vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger
books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of
onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic
trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the
customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle
I saw with a scope.

I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine
controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure
their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the
manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open
when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I
machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power
steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At
least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck
keeps getting newer as I replace parts.
jsw

Restoration !! Soon it will be worth more than its scrap value!!

(been there, done that..more than once)

(It costs more than buying a newer truck..but..it takes smaller bites
out of ones pocket every month....)

"Time to replace the truck. Now, do we do it all at once, or one
part at a time?"

snort I'm glad I wasn't drinking my tea when I read that.

All vehicles eventually reach the age and mileage where the costs are
equal between the used car repairs + insurance and the new car +
insurance. When it gets even close to even, I opt for a new car. I've
only owned two new vehicles in my life, both trucks, and those have
been my last two vehicles. I sure prefer driving new to used.
Over the 17 years I drove the F-150, I put on 2 new sets of tires, one
new set of brakes, 3 sets of spark plugs, a set of spark plug wires, a
set of tie rods, a drag link (I set the toe myself, so total cost in
parts was about $350 in the first 14 years), and, near the end, a
rebuilt tranny ($1825.) It was considerably cheaper to own than any
of my previous vehicles and amortized maintenance was 5 hours/yr.
Having put $6k down, monthly payments were only $150 for the first 5
years. (oil changes are about the same for either, so I left them
out)

It was also the first EFI vehicle I owned and I absolutely -adored-
being able to go out on a very cold morning and just drive off.
Carburetors, even when in perfect tune, are far too often a real bitch
in the morning...and I tuned 'em for a living. I had to rebuild my
Ford Ranch Wagon carb on the side of the road in the Mojave Desert
once. I was a mile outside of the city of Mojave when it crapped out,
so I troubleshot it, removed it, hiked into town, found a carb kit and
1.5gal carb dip, then asked a local resident if I could use his lawn
hose to rinse my carb off. I was back on the road in under 2 hours.
What a hassle, but I'm glad it was so easy to do.

So far in 6 years with the new Tundra, I've spent $4 on tailgate clip
(last week when the gate wouldn't open), $3 on a turn signal bulb, $8
on a headlight bulb, and $65 on a battery. Total: $80. Nice! Oh,
payments were $313/mo.

I might keep a used vehicle as a secondary, but my primary vehicle
will always be new.

--
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud
was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.
-- Anaïs Nin

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 17:53:54 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 10:08:55 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:03:49 -0800
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:08:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
.............

Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the
tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has
consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and
ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old
module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the
Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and
vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger
books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of
onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic
trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the
customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle
I saw with a scope.

I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine
controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure
their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the
manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open
when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I
machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power
steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At
least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck
keeps getting newer as I replace parts.
jsw

Restoration !! Soon it will be worth more than its scrap value!!

(been there, done that..more than once)

(It costs more than buying a newer truck..but..it takes smaller bites
out of ones pocket every month....)

"Time to replace the truck. Now, do we do it all at once, or one
part at a time?"

snort I'm glad I wasn't drinking my tea when I read that.

All vehicles eventually reach the age and mileage where the costs are
equal between the used car repairs + insurance and the new car +
insurance. When it gets even close to even, I opt for a new car. I've
only owned two new vehicles in my life, both trucks, and those have
been my last two vehicles. I sure prefer driving new to used.
Over the 17 years I drove the F-150, I put on 2 new sets of tires, one
new set of brakes, 3 sets of spark plugs, a set of spark plug wires, a
set of tie rods, a drag link (I set the toe myself, so total cost in
parts was about $350 in the first 14 years), and, near the end, a
rebuilt tranny ($1825.) It was considerably cheaper to own than any
of my previous vehicles and amortized maintenance was 5 hours/yr.
Having put $6k down, monthly payments were only $150 for the first 5
years. (oil changes are about the same for either, so I left them
out)

It was also the first EFI vehicle I owned and I absolutely -adored-
being able to go out on a very cold morning and just drive off.
Carburetors, even when in perfect tune, are far too often a real bitch
in the morning...and I tuned 'em for a living. I had to rebuild my
Ford Ranch Wagon carb on the side of the road in the Mojave Desert
once. I was a mile outside of the city of Mojave when it crapped out,
so I troubleshot it, removed it, hiked into town, found a carb kit and
1.5gal carb dip, then asked a local resident if I could use his lawn
hose to rinse my carb off. I was back on the road in under 2 hours.
What a hassle, but I'm glad it was so easy to do.

So far in 6 years with the new Tundra, I've spent $4 on tailgate clip
(last week when the gate wouldn't open), $3 on a turn signal bulb, $8
on a headlight bulb, and $65 on a battery. Total: $80. Nice! Oh,
payments were $313/mo.

I might keep a used vehicle as a secondary, but my primary vehicle
will always be new.

Your primary vehicle will always be new for one day - then it is a
USED vehicle.

I buy 5 year old new vehicles (usually) - low mileage 5 year old
vehicles for $6000-ish. I keep them (generally) about 10 years. The
last few have cost me less than $6000 in lifetime repairs. My daughter
and wife each cost me a front fender/bumper/header panel on the '88
Chrysler - would have cost at least as much to repair if the vehicle
was new - and I sold it when it was 18 years old in good running
condition and looking almost like new. Currently driving a 18 year
old pickup with about 320,000km on it - over the last year I hnave
spent NOTHING on repairs. I added AC and new tires/wheels - but not a
single repair. Oil changes only for maintenance.

The last (and only) brand new vehicle I ever owned had more spent on
it in the first 18 months than I've spent on any 2 of my used cars..
It was all warranty - but I was without the vehicle and had to put up
with all the BS from the Chrysler dealer convincing them to fix it -
and then having to redo half the work myself to make it right. They
basically threw the parts into the truck, and I (re)did the repairs.

I've fixed a lot of cars on the road too - back when I drove REALLY
used vehicles. 1969?VW 412 in Zambia, 1949 VW beetle in Zambia, 1967
Peugeot 204 in Zambia, - and the not-so-old 1990 Aerostar here in
Canada (always broke down in Michigan) - and all of those together
didn't cost me $1000 in parts/breakdown repairs.

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:06:20 -0600, "Snag" wrote:


I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the
built-up crud off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat
polished surface both on the lip and the adjacent surface is the key
. Gotta do the wheelbarrow ... oh , and if there's any crud like
rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself , that's gotta be cleaned
up too .

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner

I think they can be TIGged , but you will want to preheat them (take the
bearings out first ...). See Ernies responses to my post in SEJW about when
I fubarred the motorcycle part - I think the post was titled "Part Came
Back" . Vee the crack , etc .
--
Snag



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On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 22:55:05 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 17:53:54 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 10:08:55 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:03:49 -0800
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:08:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
.............

Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the
tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has
consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and
ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old
module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the
Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and
vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger
books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of
onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic
trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the
customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle
I saw with a scope.

I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine
controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure
their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the
manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open
when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I
machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power
steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At
least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck
keeps getting newer as I replace parts.
jsw

Restoration !! Soon it will be worth more than its scrap value!!

(been there, done that..more than once)

(It costs more than buying a newer truck..but..it takes smaller bites
out of ones pocket every month....)

"Time to replace the truck. Now, do we do it all at once, or one
part at a time?"

snort I'm glad I wasn't drinking my tea when I read that.

All vehicles eventually reach the age and mileage where the costs are
equal between the used car repairs + insurance and the new car +
insurance. When it gets even close to even, I opt for a new car. I've
only owned two new vehicles in my life, both trucks, and those have
been my last two vehicles. I sure prefer driving new to used.
Over the 17 years I drove the F-150, I put on 2 new sets of tires, one
new set of brakes, 3 sets of spark plugs, a set of spark plug wires, a
set of tie rods, a drag link (I set the toe myself, so total cost in
parts was about $350 in the first 14 years), and, near the end, a
rebuilt tranny ($1825.) It was considerably cheaper to own than any
of my previous vehicles and amortized maintenance was 5 hours/yr.
Having put $6k down, monthly payments were only $150 for the first 5
years. (oil changes are about the same for either, so I left them
out)

It was also the first EFI vehicle I owned and I absolutely -adored-
being able to go out on a very cold morning and just drive off.
Carburetors, even when in perfect tune, are far too often a real bitch
in the morning...and I tuned 'em for a living. I had to rebuild my
Ford Ranch Wagon carb on the side of the road in the Mojave Desert
once. I was a mile outside of the city of Mojave when it crapped out,
so I troubleshot it, removed it, hiked into town, found a carb kit and
1.5gal carb dip, then asked a local resident if I could use his lawn
hose to rinse my carb off. I was back on the road in under 2 hours.
What a hassle, but I'm glad it was so easy to do.

So far in 6 years with the new Tundra, I've spent $4 on tailgate clip
(last week when the gate wouldn't open), $3 on a turn signal bulb, $8
on a headlight bulb, and $65 on a battery. Total: $80. Nice! Oh,
payments were $313/mo.

I might keep a used vehicle as a secondary, but my primary vehicle
will always be new.

Your primary vehicle will always be new for one day - then it is a
USED vehicle.

My mindset is a bit different from that. I see a vehicle as new until
things start going wrong with it, usually a minimum of 5 years or 50k
miles.


I buy 5 year old new vehicles (usually) - low mileage 5 year old
vehicles for $6000-ish. I keep them (generally) about 10 years. The
last few have cost me less than $6000 in lifetime repairs. My daughter

In my new car, most of that would have been under warranty and cost me
nothing. I spent half my life repairing vehicles and the new car
thing (no repair downtime/trouble) is a new and joyous thing for me,
OK? Besides, in the USA, where people commute, low-mileage 5y/o
cars are very, very hard to find. Ask a car rental company why they
rent 0-3 year old cars. Most cars here get 20k miles annually, so at
5 years, they're worn out and into the StartShovelingMoneyAtMe stage.


and wife each cost me a front fender/bumper/header panel on the '88
Chrysler - would have cost at least as much to repair if the vehicle
was new - and I sold it when it was 18 years old in good running
condition and looking almost like new. Currently driving a 18 year
old pickup with about 320,000km on it - over the last year I hnave
spent NOTHING on repairs. I added AC and new tires/wheels - but not a
single repair. Oil changes only for maintenance.

Yes, some used cars are unlike kept women and DON'T cost you an arm
and a leg at every turn, but I haven't found that to be the norm.
I'm happy to be able to do many of my own repairs, but I'm happier not
having to do my own repairs. I like having clean fingernails today.


The last (and only) brand new vehicle I ever owned had more spent on
it in the first 18 months than I've spent on any 2 of my used cars..
It was all warranty - but I was without the vehicle and had to put up
with all the BS from the Chrysler dealer convincing them to fix it -
and then having to redo half the work myself to make it right. They
basically threw the parts into the truck, and I (re)did the repairs.

Well, if you buy Chrysler or GM vehicles, you'll have that experience.
So solly. My old truck was built right there in your Canada.


I've fixed a lot of cars on the road too - back when I drove REALLY
used vehicles. 1969?VW 412 in Zambia, 1949 VW beetle in Zambia, 1967
Peugeot 204 in Zambia, - and the not-so-old 1990 Aerostar here in
Canada (always broke down in Michigan) - and all of those together
didn't cost me $1000 in parts/breakdown repairs.

That's a whole new world, isn't it? I remember those days, buying
$100 vehicles, rebuilding the engines, and then being able to drive
them. Fond memories.

But, today, gimme a new car/truck! I drive 6k miles a year, so they
last a very long time with me.

--
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud
was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.
-- Anaïs Nin

On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 06:17:42 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 22:55:05 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 17:53:54 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 10:08:55 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:03:49 -0800
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:08:03 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news5uia9tsaj9jfcn77oq9hj9ioeil4c2heb@4ax. com...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
.............

Actually..Clares way is the only way I know how to do it.

Ive seen guys pull the rims, toss em into a bon fire and cook the
goop off. or hit em with a rosebud on their O/A torch....but that
seems a bit radical to me. Have you tried a good course cupbrush in
an angle grinder?

Gunner

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the
tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has
consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and
ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old
module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very
closely.

When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the
Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and
vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger
books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of
onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic
trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the
customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle
I saw with a scope.

I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine
controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure
their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the
manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open
when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I
machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power
steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At
least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck
keeps getting newer as I replace parts.
jsw

Restoration !! Soon it will be worth more than its scrap value!!

(been there, done that..more than once)

(It costs more than buying a newer truck..but..it takes smaller bites
out of ones pocket every month....)

"Time to replace the truck. Now, do we do it all at once, or one
part at a time?"

snort I'm glad I wasn't drinking my tea when I read that.

All vehicles eventually reach the age and mileage where the costs are
equal between the used car repairs + insurance and the new car +
insurance. When it gets even close to even, I opt for a new car. I've
only owned two new vehicles in my life, both trucks, and those have
been my last two vehicles. I sure prefer driving new to used.
Over the 17 years I drove the F-150, I put on 2 new sets of tires, one
new set of brakes, 3 sets of spark plugs, a set of spark plug wires, a
set of tie rods, a drag link (I set the toe myself, so total cost in
parts was about $350 in the first 14 years), and, near the end, a
rebuilt tranny ($1825.) It was considerably cheaper to own than any
of my previous vehicles and amortized maintenance was 5 hours/yr.
Having put $6k down, monthly payments were only $150 for the first 5
years. (oil changes are about the same for either, so I left them
out)

It was also the first EFI vehicle I owned and I absolutely -adored-
being able to go out on a very cold morning and just drive off.
Carburetors, even when in perfect tune, are far too often a real bitch
in the morning...and I tuned 'em for a living. I had to rebuild my
Ford Ranch Wagon carb on the side of the road in the Mojave Desert
once. I was a mile outside of the city of Mojave when it crapped out,
so I troubleshot it, removed it, hiked into town, found a carb kit and
1.5gal carb dip, then asked a local resident if I could use his lawn
hose to rinse my carb off. I was back on the road in under 2 hours.
What a hassle, but I'm glad it was so easy to do.

So far in 6 years with the new Tundra, I've spent $4 on tailgate clip
(last week when the gate wouldn't open), $3 on a turn signal bulb, $8
on a headlight bulb, and $65 on a battery. Total: $80. Nice! Oh,
payments were $313/mo.

I might keep a used vehicle as a secondary, but my primary vehicle
will always be new.

Your primary vehicle will always be new for one day - then it is a
USED vehicle.

My mindset is a bit different from that. I see a vehicle as new until
things start going wrong with it, usually a minimum of 5 years or 50k
miles.


As a said, I buy 5 year old "new" cars. 2003 Ford Taurus with 58000kn
- thats less than 40,000 miles - for $6000.

I buy 5 year old new vehicles (usually) - low mileage 5 year old
vehicles for $6000-ish. I keep them (generally) about 10 years. The
last few have cost me less than $6000 in lifetime repairs. My daughter

In my new car, most of that would have been under warranty and cost me
nothing. I spent half my life repairing vehicles and the new car
thing (no repair downtime/trouble) is a new and joyous thing for me,

Spent half my working life as a mechanic too.
OK? Besides, in the USA, where people commute, low-mileage 5y/o
cars are very, very hard to find. Ask a car rental company why they
rent 0-3 year old cars. Most cars here get 20k miles annually, so at
5 years, they're worn out and into the StartShovelingMoneyAtMe stage.

Not easy to find here either, but they are around. I try to start
looking for a new one before the old one gets too bad - that way I can
still sell the old one for a half decent price and I'm never (well,
almost never) in a position where I HAVE to buy a car.

Checked my records - the 88 New Yorker - not counting the body
repairs, cost me $2800 in repairs over 140,000km and 12 years of
ownership. That included rebuilding cyl heads and replacing
transmission.. Add the body repairs -about $900 in parts total between
the 2 incidents, and it was still a cheap car - considering I still
got $1700 for it when I sold it.
The '96 Mystique cost me $3000 over 12 years - only about 80,000km -
including lower control arms, A./C reciever, Transmission repair ,
engine mount,and brakes.


and wife each cost me a front fender/bumper/header panel on the '88
Chrysler - would have cost at least as much to repair if the vehicle
was new - and I sold it when it was 18 years old in good running
condition and looking almost like new. Currently driving a 18 year
old pickup with about 320,000km on it - over the last year I hnave
spent NOTHING on repairs. I added AC and new tires/wheels - but not a
single repair. Oil changes only for maintenance.

Yes, some used cars are unlike kept women and DON'T cost you an arm
and a leg at every turn, but I haven't found that to be the norm.
I'm happy to be able to do many of my own repairs, but I'm happier not
having to do my own repairs. I like having clean fingernails today.

For guys like you and I it's not hard to get ones that don't cost an
arm and a leg to maintain because we (or at least I) know what to look
for.

I've had2 cars over the last 30+ years I should never have bought.
The 1985 LeBaron 2600 wagon - I bought it at night from a mechanic and
took his word for what happened to it. It was a non-runner I bought
for $1000 - and that was about $900 too much. I put an engine in it
(rebuilt the old one - using only the original cyl head - it was that
bad) and drove it 'till it wasn't solid enough to put on a hoist any
more. Other than it being a $4000 pile of rust by the time I got it on
the road, and it only lasting me 6 years before I sold it for parts,
it didn't give me any trouble or expense.

The other one was the 1995 Pontiac Trans Sport I bought for scrap
price with a blown engine and 275000km?. I put in an AC-Delco crate
engine, and within 6 months a rebuilt trans as well, for a total
investment of about $5000 - and that piece of crap nickelled and dimed
me to death over the next 7 years or so. Never anything serious enough
to make me mad enough to get rid of it - but it was just a piece of
junk. When the engine let go on my daughter on the 401, it went
straight to the scrap yard.

That's out of 25+ cars over the years.

The only "new" vehicle I owned was 1 1976 Dodge Ramcharger SE. It was
a nice truck, but the dealer didn't PDI it properly and there was a
never-ending list of things that needed fixing - some of which they
finally fixed under warranty, some that I fixed - and a water leak
that didn't get fixed untill I got rid of it 18 months later. I took a
bigger loss on that vehicle than I've ever PAID for a vehicle since.

Now I let someone else pay the depreciation.


The last (and only) brand new vehicle I ever owned had more spent on
it in the first 18 months than I've spent on any 2 of my used cars..
It was all warranty - but I was without the vehicle and had to put up
with all the BS from the Chrysler dealer convincing them to fix it -
and then having to redo half the work myself to make it right. They
basically threw the parts into the truck, and I (re)did the repairs.

Well, if you buy Chrysler or GM vehicles, you'll have that experience.
So solly. My old truck was built right there in your Canada.


I've fixed a lot of cars on the road too - back when I drove REALLY
used vehicles. 1969?VW 412 in Zambia, 1949 VW beetle in Zambia, 1967
Peugeot 204 in Zambia, - and the not-so-old 1990 Aerostar here in
Canada (always broke down in Michigan) - and all of those together
didn't cost me $1000 in parts/breakdown repairs.

That's a whole new world, isn't it? I remember those days, buying
$100 vehicles, rebuilding the engines, and then being able to drive
them. Fond memories.

But, today, gimme a new car/truck! I drive 6k miles a year, so they
last a very long time with me.

SNIP a bunch of stuff
Larry,
I think you are way off saying a car at 100,000 miles is worn out and
will need to have money sholveled at it. I gave away recently my
Dodge Colt (really a Mitsubishi car) with 273,000 miles on it. It
still runs great, gets great mileage, has good oil pressure and
compression. The only repairs it needed before I gave it away were the
timing belt, water pump, and camshaft seal. The only repairs I had to
do to the car since I bought it new were brakes, ball joints, some
rubber suspension bushings, and a distributer, and the three items
noted above. My Toyota truck with the V6 I bought used with 120,000
miles on it and I have put another 50,000 on it. It has needed a new
radiator and water pump and ball joints. My wife's Camry which we just
gave away still runs great with about 140,000 miles on it. It only
needed a timing belt and a radiator in all those miles. My brother
drove his last Toyota 2WD truck with the 4 cylinder (22RE?) engine for
330,000 miles before donating it to some charity in Guatemala. He and
his wife drove the truck from Northern California to Guatemala to
deliver it. His only repairs since he bought it new were a timing belt
or chain (I forgot which), ball joints and shocks. I was told by my
mechanic that the reason the truck and Camry needed radiators was
because I didn't use the red Toyota anti freeze. I used the regular
green stuff, which was apparently a bad idea. I will only be using the
proper red stuff in my Scion xB. As you can see all the vehicles
listed above are not money pits. And I'm sure my experience is not
unusual these days. Cars are built much better these days, and have
been for the last 20 years at least, with much better materials. I'm
hard on vehicles but changing the oil when I was supposed to, changing
brake fluid and coolant in a timely fashion, plugs, wires, distributer
cap and rotor are pretty much all I did to maintain my vehicles and
over time the cost of the above regular maintenance was more than I
spent on repairs. As they say, YMMV, but not much.
Eric

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On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 17:18:34 -0800, wrote:

SNIP a bunch of stuff
Larry,
I think you are way off saying a car at 100,000 miles is worn out and
will need to have money sholveled at it.

You know, I may well be. I haven't been nearly as involved in the
industry since buying my first new vehicle, and I know from the Tundra
that things have become a metric ****load better since that time. It's
time for me to reevaluate. Thanks for the nudge.


I gave away recently my
Dodge Colt (really a Mitsubishi car) with 273,000 miles on it. It

Obviously Mitsubishi engineering. Poor Dodge owners! Look at the
Consumer Reports for all cars and you'll see GM and Dodge with the
lowest 10% approval ratings. That's a lotta miles, Eric.


still runs great, gets great mileage, has good oil pressure and
compression. The only repairs it needed before I gave it away were the
timing belt, water pump, and camshaft seal. The only repairs I had to
do to the car since I bought it new were brakes, ball joints, some
rubber suspension bushings, and a distributer, and the three items
noted above. My Toyota truck with the V6 I bought used with 120,000

Yeah, Toyotas have a much longer life. Hondas, too, but if your Honda
ever eats ANYTHING, sell it right away. They fall apart all at once
from every vehicle I've seen. Great until they fall, then they just
self-destruct.

This Tundra may well be my last vehicle. Well, until they get air
cars and helicopters without licensing. giggle

--
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud
was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.
-- Anaïs Nin

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:26:32 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:00:53 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:06:20 -0600, "Snag" wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 23:01:15 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:58:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all
places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over
the
last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake
Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a
"splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that
do
a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep
disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both
alloy
and steel rims.

Thanks, latex is safer than urethane to apply indoors near a wood
stove. Is your 'prep disk' a reddish Scotchbrite pad?
jsw

red , purple, or brown - the green ones are a bit too fine.


I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the built-up crud
off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat polished surface both on
the lip and the adjacent surface is the key . Gotta do the wheelbarrow ...
oh , and if there's any crud like rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself
, that's gotta be cleaned up too .

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner
replace them. Aluminum fatigues.


I was afraid that was going to be said...sigh.

Thanks Clare

Gunner

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 07:56:59 -0600, "Snag" wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:06:20 -0600, "Snag" wrote:


I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the
built-up crud off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat
polished surface both on the lip and the adjacent surface is the key
. Gotta do the wheelbarrow ... oh , and if there's any crud like
rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself , that's gotta be cleaned
up too .

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner

I think they can be TIGged , but you will want to preheat them (take the
bearings out first ...). See Ernies responses to my post in SEJW about when
I fubarred the motorcycle part - I think the post was titled "Part Came
Back" . Vee the crack , etc .

I rather doubt that its going to harm the bearings..they are 18"
diameter spoked motorcycle wheels after all.


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 13 Dec 2013 07:56:59 -0600, "Snag" wrote:

I think they can be TIGged , but you will want to preheat them
(take the bearings out first ...). See Ernies responses to my post
in SEJW about when I fubarred the motorcycle part - I think the post
was titled "Part Came Back" . Vee the crack , etc .

I rather doubt that its going to harm the bearings..they are 18"
diameter spoked motorcycle wheels after all.

In that case get some repop rims and lace them to your hubs . Use new
spokes .
--
Snag



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On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 11:21:24 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:26:32 -0500, wrote:

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner

replace them. Aluminum fatigues.


I was afraid that was going to be said...sigh.

How'd we get onto the subject of military attire, anyway? And
wouldn't those be too shiny for BDU work?

--
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud
was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.
-- Anaïs Nin

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 20:16:21 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 11:21:24 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:26:32 -0500, wrote:

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner

replace them. Aluminum fatigues.


I was afraid that was going to be said...sigh.

How'd we get onto the subject of military attire, anyway? And
wouldn't those be too shiny for BDU work?

Aluminum fatigues???

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Sun, 15 Dec 2013 00:42:56 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 20:16:21 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 11:21:24 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:26:32 -0500, wrote:

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner

replace them. Aluminum fatigues.


I was afraid that was going to be said...sigh.

How'd we get onto the subject of military attire, anyway? And
wouldn't those be too shiny for BDU work?

Aluminum fatigues???

You didn't watch "The Wizard of Oz"? The Tin Man?
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sun, 15 Dec 2013 00:42:56 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 20:16:21 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 11:21:24 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:26:32 -0500, wrote:

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner

replace them. Aluminum fatigues.


I was afraid that was going to be said...sigh.

How'd we get onto the subject of military attire, anyway? And
wouldn't those be too shiny for BDU work?

Aluminum fatigues???

And damned uncomfortable. Sit on the icy ground with those and you'd
instantly have chillyballs.


--
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

Gunner Asch on Sun, 15 Dec 2013 00:42:56 -0800
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 20:16:21 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 11:21:24 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:26:32 -0500, wrote:

My Royal Enfield/Indian motorcyle has aluminum rims. Each one has a
hairline crack in the side rim. Any fix for these? Can I tig them or
should I replace them? I dont think they were the original rims from
1960

Gunner

replace them. Aluminum fatigues.


I was afraid that was going to be said...sigh.

How'd we get onto the subject of military attire, anyway? And
wouldn't those be too shiny for BDU work?

Aluminum fatigues???

For the Air Farce Caadets at "Aluminum U.



--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."