On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:52:44 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B.
wrote:

snipped stove stuff

It wasn't "rocket science".

And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.


No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
in a galvanized iron roof.

For Gunner:
Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....

(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
:-)

Might need to put on muffs and plugs G

This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
corregations.

From 2009

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...69980306390978

Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
now

Run it out the wall, maybe behind the belt sandah station, and clamp
it to the top of the gutter or roof frame there. There's absolutely
no need to cut holes in the roof.

Pretty much what Ive been thinking. Just finding the vent angles at
a price I can afford is an issue around here.



This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
http://www.autoweek.com/article/2012...IEWS/121129903
Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.

Build it..and we will come!!!

Nice rig!!


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:28:45 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B.
wrote:

snipped stove stuff

It wasn't "rocket science".

And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.


No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
in a galvanized iron roof.

For Gunner:
Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....

(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
:-)

Might need to put on muffs and plugs G

The guy was a member of the Air force pistol team as I was and had
brought out his brand new pistol to show the boys. We all got to shoot
it (mostly a single shot was sufficient experience) and were talking
about how powerful the damned thing was when he recounted the story
about the hole in the concrete wall. He said that he'd built a little
shelter out of scrap wood and was shooting through a hole in the side
of the shelter. Said that shrapnel was flying about some :-)

This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
corregations.

From 2009

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...69980306390978

Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
now

Gunner

Another thought, in passing. How often does it rain in your locale? I
lived at Edwards for a couple of years and it rained once, for about
20 minutes.

We get about 4"-6" of rain a year here. Though we are in the middle
of the usual 7 yr dought cycle at the moment.

So we might get 3" this year, by the time summer comes along.

"Rainy Season" is in January usually..so we might get a couple inches
then.

Gunner



The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 19:04:29 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


I live in California. In most of the state...there are few
fireplaces and even fewer wood stoves. Gas or electric heating is the
standard. So finding flue pipe takes a miracle at the least.



I've been doing some tests with the galvanized sheetmetal ducts available
at
HomeDepot. They are not designed for wood stoves. If you put one
directly
above a cast iron stove it will get a deep red color if the flues are open
and it is well stoked. The cheap ones are sold flat and you pop the joint
together. A couple of 7" hose clamps would prevent it from popping open
from the heat change. When they cool back down the metal is discolored
white, no longer shiny. A significant amount of heat is left in the room
from the chimney so I'm using thin, cheap material and trying to keep the
combustion down in the stove.

The old time "stove pipes" were sheet metal with a interlocking joint
lengthwise. One end had a sort of corrugated pattern rolled into it to
make it small enough to slide into the next section. and they would
get red hot too, if you didn't know what you were doing.

The idea is to build a fire in the stove to warm things up, not large
enough to have flames shooting up the chimney.


Just doing tests. Got it nice and hot, then ran up to full heat with
hardwood slats. Flames were going up a couple of feet in the pipe. Normal
use is with both dampers closed so I don't spend so much time with the
sawbuck. I ventilated the area when curing the stove and pipe. I've heard
of zinc fume fever before. Used to cook over charcoal in galvanized
washtubs.

Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple of
SS clamps are $1.98 ea.


Where can I find them? I could use about 12' and 2 right angles

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Gunner wrote:

Stumpy wrote:

Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple of
SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

Where can I find them? I could use about 12' and 2 right angles


Sounds like he's talking about the old galvanized furnace duct that
runs to the registers.

Do you ever catch someone junking an old mobile home? They have an
insulated flue that would work, and they aren't worth much as scrap.

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 19:09:13 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:52:44 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B.
wrote:

snipped stove stuff

It wasn't "rocket science".

And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.


No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
in a galvanized iron roof.

For Gunner:
Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....

(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
:-)

Might need to put on muffs and plugs G

This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
corregations.

From 2009

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...69980306390978

Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
now

Run it out the wall, maybe behind the belt sandah station, and clamp
it to the top of the gutter or roof frame there. There's absolutely
no need to cut holes in the roof.

Pretty much what Ive been thinking. Just finding the vent angles at
a price I can afford is an issue around here.

So get thee to a library and grab the Audel Handy Book to make it
yourself.


This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
http://www.autoweek.com/article/2012...IEWS/121129903
Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.

Build it..and we will come!!!

Nice rig!!

I'm only $100k short for a Mog.

--
Learning to ignore things is one of the great paths to inner peace.
-- Robert J. Sawyer

I've been doing some tests with the galvanized sheetmetal ducts
available
at
HomeDepot. They are not designed for wood stoves. If you put one
directly
above a cast iron stove it will get a deep red color if the flues are
open
and it is well stoked. The cheap ones are sold flat and you pop the
joint
together. A couple of 7" hose clamps would prevent it from popping open
from the heat change. When they cool back down the metal is discolored
white, no longer shiny. A significant amount of heat is left in the
room
from the chimney so I'm using thin, cheap material and trying to keep
the
combustion down in the stove.

The old time "stove pipes" were sheet metal with a interlocking joint
lengthwise. One end had a sort of corrugated pattern rolled into it to
make it small enough to slide into the next section. and they would
get red hot too, if you didn't know what you were doing.

The idea is to build a fire in the stove to warm things up, not large
enough to have flames shooting up the chimney.


Just doing tests. Got it nice and hot, then ran up to full heat with
hardwood slats. Flames were going up a couple of feet in the pipe.
Normal
use is with both dampers closed so I don't spend so much time with the
sawbuck. I ventilated the area when curing the stove and pipe. I've
heard
of zinc fume fever before. Used to cook over charcoal in galvanized
washtubs.

Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of
SS clamps are $1.98 ea.


Where can I find them? I could use about 12' and 2 right angles



That's standard Home Depot furnace duct. It sits flat on a shelf looking
like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 21:31:59 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 19:09:13 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:52:44 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 18:39:31 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 18:49:30 -0800, whoyakidding
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 07:51:27 +0700, John B.
wrote:

snipped stove stuff

It wasn't "rocket science".

And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting,
and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with.
Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest
and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of
boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.


No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole
in a galvanized iron roof.

For Gunner:
Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making
allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he
was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete
wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....

(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof
:-)

Might need to put on muffs and plugs G

This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
corregations.

From 2009

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...69980306390978

Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
now

Run it out the wall, maybe behind the belt sandah station, and clamp
it to the top of the gutter or roof frame there. There's absolutely
no need to cut holes in the roof.

Pretty much what Ive been thinking. Just finding the vent angles at
a price I can afford is an issue around here.

So get thee to a library and grab the Audel Handy Book to make it
yourself.

Oh..I can borrow the tools from Leigh Knudsen, he has all the DiAcro
stuff. But learning how to make just a few pieces.....shrug


This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
http://www.autoweek.com/article/2012...IEWS/121129903
Uglysweet, innit? But those bastids have no plans to build 'em.

Build it..and we will come!!!

Nice rig!!

I'm only $100k short for a Mog.

?? The most expensive one I could find was a customized one for $30k

This one is only $13k and only has 6500 miles on it

http://unimogshop.com/ads/unimog-404-for-sale-4/

There are others for less than $5k available.


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 22:48:47 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:




I've been doing some tests with the galvanized sheetmetal ducts
available
at
HomeDepot. They are not designed for wood stoves. If you put one
directly
above a cast iron stove it will get a deep red color if the flues are
open
and it is well stoked. The cheap ones are sold flat and you pop the
joint
together. A couple of 7" hose clamps would prevent it from popping open
from the heat change. When they cool back down the metal is discolored
white, no longer shiny. A significant amount of heat is left in the
room
from the chimney so I'm using thin, cheap material and trying to keep
the
combustion down in the stove.

The old time "stove pipes" were sheet metal with a interlocking joint
lengthwise. One end had a sort of corrugated pattern rolled into it to
make it small enough to slide into the next section. and they would
get red hot too, if you didn't know what you were doing.

The idea is to build a fire in the stove to warm things up, not large
enough to have flames shooting up the chimney.


Just doing tests. Got it nice and hot, then ran up to full heat with
hardwood slats. Flames were going up a couple of feet in the pipe.
Normal
use is with both dampers closed so I don't spend so much time with the
sawbuck. I ventilated the area when curing the stove and pipe. I've
heard
of zinc fume fever before. Used to cook over charcoal in galvanized
washtubs.

Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of
SS clamps are $1.98 ea.


Where can I find them? I could use about 12' and 2 right angles



That's standard Home Depot furnace duct. It sits flat on a shelf looking
like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.

Dont have it here in my part of California. Ill have to see if they
can order it.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

"Stumpy" wrote in message
m...


Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a
couple of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how
tall it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence.
They didn't last one winter.

jsw

"Gunner" wrote in message
...

Oh..I can borrow the tools from Leigh Knudsen, he has all the DiAcro
stuff. But learning how to make just a few pieces.....shrug


https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...71642404646402

The hammered flange and sleeve insert the clamps are holding fit
double-wall Class A pipe, quite nicely. The other half of the wash tub
rests on the anvil. I left the tub rim protruding out to attach
bracing to it later. It was assembled with #5 screws and then
stainless steel pop rivets. It was the lower section of the test
extension.

jsw

Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
last one winter.


At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
get of the expensive stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UNnbYayLOuI

It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 19:44:31 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:28:45 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:33:32 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized
iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and
then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square
corregations.

From 2009

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...69980306390978

Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like
now

Another thought, in passing. How often does it rain in your locale? I
lived at Edwards for a couple of years and it rained once, for about
20 minutes.

We get about 4"-6" of rain a year here. Though we are in the middle
of the usual 7 yr dought cycle at the moment.

So we might get 3" this year, by the time summer comes along.

"Rainy Season" is in January usually..so we might get a couple inches
then.

Gunner

Looks like that galvanized Floor Deck stuff they use on commercial
roofs and as the concrete base for a poured upper floor. Not your
usual Raised Rib Roofing stuff that you can make a flashing for.

If you don't want to weld up a Fishmouth Tee and go out the wall, you
can make a sleeve an inch bigger than the vent pipe and a few inches
higher than the roof ridges, then put a rain collar around the
stovepipe to keep it from dripping inside.

As for the one or two totally blocked deck panel channels, the
simplest way would be cut in a 2" bar-sink scupper drain, then run it
out the side wall with some 1-1/2 mild steel tubing.

(I was about to say ABS DWV or PVC, but there's that small problem of
the stove heat... And 1-1/2" Copper is a fortune.)

If you want to get fancy you cut holes sideways at the root of each
blocked channel and weld in two or three chunks of mild steel tube to
cross over to the clear channels on each side. Water goes down, then
takes the detour to the sides, then out. And even if one or both
clogs with leaves it still can't get over the sleeve.

-- Bruce --

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 01:34:28 -0800, Gunner
wrote:
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 22:48:47 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:

That's standard Home Depot furnace duct. It sits flat on a shelf looking
like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.

Dont have it here in my part of California. Ill have to see if they
can order it.

They have knock-down duct in stock at all the Depot's I've ever
visited - but it's 22 or 24-GA galvanized for hot-air use (Gas venting
at the worst) and it's far too thin to last very long.

Me, I'd look at getting a full 20' stick of 11-GA or 1/16" (the
lightest they make) 5" or 6" OD (whatever your little stove calls for)
Structural Tubing and make the main stovepipe riser and tee runner
from that. A fish-mouth for the tee pipe, and make a wedge-section
elbow to go vertical over the stove - you set the chop saw to 11.25
degrees and slice up a pile of segments.

A couple sticks of thin mild square tube down to the ground to support
it, and a stand-off bracket from the wall header.

Get some MIG practice putting it together, than we can't pick on you
for making cold welds anymore.

Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be
the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.

So all you use the lightweight knock-down duct is to feed into the
11-GA flue, and when it rusts through you replace it fast and easy. If
the Shop isn't sealed up tight you can stand a minor CO leak long
enough to notice the problem.

If you can afford the propane, though... I'd get or make one of the
Radiant Pipe with Reflector heaters that stretches the whole length of
the shop.

And they use 3" or 4" B-Vent that's small enough to sneak between two
of the roof corrugations, especially if you convert to Oval B-Vent
Pipe for the penetration and draft riser.

Oh, and no creosote fires in the flue like you get burning wood -
that's important.

-- Bruce --

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 07:10:08 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Stumpy" wrote in message
om...


Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a
couple of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how
tall it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence.
They didn't last one winter.

jsw

Rust or simply rotted away?


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
last one winter.


At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
get of the expensive stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UNnbYayLOuI

It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.

I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
to support


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 07:29:27 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .

Oh..I can borrow the tools from Leigh Knudsen, he has all the DiAcro
stuff. But learning how to make just a few pieces.....shrug


https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...71642404646402

The hammered flange and sleeve insert the clamps are holding fit
double-wall Class A pipe, quite nicely. The other half of the wash tub
rests on the anvil. I left the tub rim protruding out to attach
bracing to it later. It was assembled with #5 screws and then
stainless steel pop rivets. It was the lower section of the test
extension.

jsw

Very nicely done!!

Btw..that boring head you built..absolutely MARVELOUS job!!

Bravo!

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 12:43:18 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 01:34:28 -0800, Gunner
wrote:
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 22:48:47 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:

That's standard Home Depot furnace duct. It sits flat on a shelf looking
like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.

Dont have it here in my part of California. Ill have to see if they
can order it.

They have knock-down duct in stock at all the Depot's I've ever
visited - but it's 22 or 24-GA galvanized for hot-air use (Gas venting
at the worst) and it's far too thin to last very long.

Me, I'd look at getting a full 20' stick of 11-GA or 1/16" (the
lightest they make) 5" or 6" OD (whatever your little stove calls for)
Structural Tubing and make the main stovepipe riser and tee runner
from that. A fish-mouth for the tee pipe, and make a wedge-section
elbow to go vertical over the stove - you set the chop saw to 11.25
degrees and slice up a pile of segments.

A couple sticks of thin mild square tube down to the ground to support
it, and a stand-off bracket from the wall header.

Get some MIG practice putting it together, than we can't pick on you
for making cold welds anymore.

Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be
the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.

So all you use the lightweight knock-down duct is to feed into the
11-GA flue, and when it rusts through you replace it fast and easy. If
the Shop isn't sealed up tight you can stand a minor CO leak long
enough to notice the problem.

If you can afford the propane, though... I'd get or make one of the
Radiant Pipe with Reflector heaters that stretches the whole length of
the shop.

And they use 3" or 4" B-Vent that's small enough to sneak between two
of the roof corrugations, especially if you convert to Oval B-Vent
Pipe for the penetration and draft riser.

Oh, and no creosote fires in the flue like you get burning wood -
that's important.

-- Bruce --

Good ideas all. I like the idea of an oval riser between the
corregations. Frankly..Id never thought of that. Sigh...and here I was
thinking Id recovered from the stoke. Very nicely done!

Cant afford the propane or natural gas to heat the shop. PG&E is still
a ****load higher than everybody else in Cali. So Im stuck with
burning scrap.

Ive not lit the stove yet this year...Carhart insulated coveralls at
night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with ski
gloves on simply isnt in the cards

Ill see what I can find for thin wall. The output from the stove is
5"..but can I swage down to 4" if I have a good draft? Getting 4"
would be easier than 5-6" around here

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Gunner wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
last one winter.


At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
get of the expensive stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UNnbYayLOuI

It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.

I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
to support


And if you got it red hot. Got any 4" conduit?

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 14:51:09 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
last one winter.


At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
get of the expensive stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UNnbYayLOuI

It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.

I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
to support

I told you before - bailing wire and tar paper nails :-)
--
Cheers,
John B.

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
last one winter.


At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
get of the expensive stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UNnbYayLOuI

It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.


Or maybe http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Black-Stove-Pipe
for the real stuff.
--
Cheers,
John B.

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 15:02:40 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 12:43:18 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 01:34:28 -0800, Gunner
wrote:
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 22:48:47 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:

That's standard Home Depot furnace duct. It sits flat on a shelf looking
like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.

Dont have it here in my part of California. Ill have to see if they
can order it.

They have knock-down duct in stock at all the Depot's I've ever
visited - but it's 22 or 24-GA galvanized for hot-air use (Gas venting
at the worst) and it's far too thin to last very long.

Me, I'd look at getting a full 20' stick of 11-GA or 1/16" (the
lightest they make) 5" or 6" OD (whatever your little stove calls for)
Structural Tubing and make the main stovepipe riser and tee runner
from that. A fish-mouth for the tee pipe, and make a wedge-section
elbow to go vertical over the stove - you set the chop saw to 11.25
degrees and slice up a pile of segments.

A couple sticks of thin mild square tube down to the ground to support
it, and a stand-off bracket from the wall header.

Get some MIG practice putting it together, than we can't pick on you
for making cold welds anymore.

Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be
the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.

So all you use the lightweight knock-down duct is to feed into the
11-GA flue, and when it rusts through you replace it fast and easy. If
the Shop isn't sealed up tight you can stand a minor CO leak long
enough to notice the problem.

If you can afford the propane, though... I'd get or make one of the
Radiant Pipe with Reflector heaters that stretches the whole length of
the shop.

And they use 3" or 4" B-Vent that's small enough to sneak between two
of the roof corrugations, especially if you convert to Oval B-Vent
Pipe for the penetration and draft riser.

Oh, and no creosote fires in the flue like you get burning wood -
that's important.

-- Bruce --

Good ideas all. I like the idea of an oval riser between the
corregations. Frankly..Id never thought of that. Sigh...and here I was
thinking Id recovered from the stoke. Very nicely done!

Cant afford the propane or natural gas to heat the shop. PG&E is still
a ****load higher than everybody else in Cali. So Im stuck with
burning scrap.

Ive not lit the stove yet this year...Carhart insulated coveralls at
night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with ski
gloves on simply isnt in the cards

Ill see what I can find for thin wall. The output from the stove is
5"..but can I swage down to 4" if I have a good draft? Getting 4"
would be easier than 5-6" around here

Home Depot has stovepipe, too.

--
Learning to ignore things is one of the great paths to inner peace.
-- Robert J. Sawyer

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 19:58:57 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
last one winter.


At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
get of the expensive stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UNnbYayLOuI

It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.

I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
to support


And if you got it red hot. Got any 4" conduit?

No..I dont. But if I can use it..Ill snag some.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message

If you want to get fancy you cut holes sideways at the root of each
blocked channel and weld in two or three chunks of mild steel tube
to
cross over to the clear channels on each side. Water goes down, then
takes the detour to the sides, then out. And even if one or both
clogs with leaves it still can't get over the sleeve.

-- Bruce --

I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.

jsw

Gunner wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 19:58:57 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 09:00:38 -0800, "Stumpy"
wrote:


Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple
of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall
it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't
last one winter.


At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to
get of the expensive stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UNnbYayLOuI

It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.

I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting
to support


And if you got it red hot. Got any 4" conduit?

No..I dont. But if I can use it..Ill snag some.


It would last longer than that galvanized sheet metal. I wonder how
well an 'EZ-ELL' would work in that application? Some of the old
compression couplings & furnace cement would give airtight joints. I
thought you might have some pieces from one of the businesses that have
shut down. I used to pick up alll the used conduit & scraps from a
local electrical contractor. They used a lot of ridgid in factories.
There were times I didn't make it home before someone stopped me &
bought what was in my trailer. :-)


I still have a few 10' pieces of unused 3/4" rigid aluminum conduit
they gave me. I would have had a lot more, but my dad was trying to be
'helpful', and bent the rest up to recycle it. Over $500 worth of new
conduit.

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message

Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be
the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.

The cleanout plug on my chimney was partly galvanized and rain washed
down acidic residues that ate it away. Now it's entirely stainless. I
added a handle to help pull it out if it's frozen in place; lighting a
small fire doesn't warm it enough and prevents me from brushing the
flue. I can heat the frozen plug with a torch but then the hot rim
drips with creosote I don't want on gloves. Freezing rain is a big
problem here, if not where Gunner lives.

jsw

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 07:10:08 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how
tall it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence.
They didn't last one winter.

jsw

Rust or simply rotted away?


Wood smoke stings the eyes because it contains vinegar.
http://encyclopedia2.thefreedictiona...lation+of+Wood

Once I have the fire burning hot the secondary air in the top of my
Scandinavian-style stove burns all the distillates and the exhaust is
clear and doesn't sting, even if I'm standing beside the top. But I
haven't figured out how to stop the smoke when it's starting up and
the chimney is too cold to create enough draft.

The acid first ate away the upper inside section at the joints,
leaving a ragged lower edge. It thinned the walls unevenly enough
that a few areas began to crumple in when I handled the extension pipe
every few weeks to clean it. My chimney brush is nylon (home-made) and
not abrasive.
jsw

"Gunner" wrote in message
...

I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit
interesting
to support


I just miked a spare section of black stovepipe from Lowe's. AFAICT
it's about 24 gauge or 0.5mm, hard to tell since it's curved and stiff
and burred on the edge. For me it lasts at least 10 years. I suspect
less careful people would leave it in much longer.

I use a 5-blade crimper like this:
http://i2.quinbyhardware.com/6199178.jpg
Better:
http://www.oocities.org/toesheet/CRI...-CRI-006-2.jpg
Cheaper:
http://heating-and-cooling.hardwares...er-198002.aspx

The tees would be easier to copy than the elbows. The tees are
fishmouthed and riveted. I put a tee instead of an elbow where the
riser from the stove turns to go through the wall so I can brush out
that section.

The regulations here require a metal container with a lid for the
ashes. Any glowing coals in the ash generate plenty of carbon
monoxide. I use the ash bucket to test the readout on my CO detector.

jsw

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
...
Ive not lit the stove yet this year...Carhart insulated coveralls at
night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with
ski
gloves on simply isnt in the cards


I've found insulated hunting coveralls much more comfortable when I'm
not doing something that could snag their soft, very flexible fabric.

Around here Walmart sells flannel-lined jeans and work pants that are
cozy to lounge around in. I'm comfortable working bare-handed in a 35
degree shop wearing them, an insulated vest over a flannel shirt and a
hat.
jsw

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 07:47:18 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message

Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be
the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.

The cleanout plug on my chimney was partly galvanized and rain washed
down acidic residues that ate it away. Now it's entirely stainless. I
added a handle to help pull it out if it's frozen in place; lighting a
small fire doesn't warm it enough and prevents me from brushing the
flue. I can heat the frozen plug with a torch but then the hot rim
drips with creosote I don't want on gloves. Freezing rain is a big
problem here, if not where Gunner lives.

jsw


Fog is a big problem here. Freezing rain...so rare, like snow..that it
is a once in a decade thing..or even less.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 08:59:20 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
...
Ive not lit the stove yet this year...Carhart insulated coveralls at
night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with
ski
gloves on simply isnt in the cards


I've found insulated hunting coveralls much more comfortable when I'm
not doing something that could snag their soft, very flexible fabric.

Around here Walmart sells flannel-lined jeans and work pants that are
cozy to lounge around in. I'm comfortable working bare-handed in a 35
degree shop wearing them, an insulated vest over a flannel shirt and a
hat.
jsw


Im a desert dweller. A very very cold night here might be 36F..but we
will have a lot...a lot of fog at those temps. Summer tends to be at
100-108ish with a long spring and a long fall in the 50s-80s. Summer
humidity is around 12-25%..winter tends to be in the 80% or higher
range. Right now its 45F and 93% so we will have a bit of fog this
morning.

So between the cool and the humidity in winter..it gets COLD. If it
would drop below freezing..the humidity goes away and it actually
would warm up in "feel"

They say it might snow this year..but I doubt it. We have only had one
snow fall on the mountains (5000') and it didnt stay the entire next
day..was mostly gone by noon.

Ive got some insulated hunting coverals that I occasionally wear out
in the shop, but I love Carrharts and have a number of insulated
pairs. Can find em here in the second hand stores fairly regularly...I
live in the middle of the oil fields..so folks have money to spend on
good clothes and do.

Even have a couple pair of Sorrels..but havent put em on since my last
hunting trip...almost 5 yrs now. Up in the coastal range in Febuary as
I recall. Its 7 am..and its time for bed.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 08:59:20 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
...
Ive not lit the stove yet this year...Carhart insulated coveralls at
night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with
ski
gloves on simply isnt in the cards


I've found insulated hunting coveralls much more comfortable when I'm
not doing something that could snag their soft, very flexible fabric.

Around here Walmart sells flannel-lined jeans and work pants that are
cozy to lounge around in. I'm comfortable working bare-handed in a 35
degree shop wearing them, an insulated vest over a flannel shirt and a
hat.
jsw


https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602

Some photos of the shop and other things


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

"Gunner" wrote


https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602

Some photos of the shop and other things

Looking at your leg scar pic. Sure glad they did mine endoscopically. I
have three one inch scars, one of which is invisible up in my groin area
somewhere. Everyone I talked to said their leg scars took longer to heal
than their heart operation scars. Mebbe if you had the private insurance
operation, you would have smaller scars........... ;-) Also saw your chest
scar. Mine was half as long, and the suture was wound up inside, with just
the nub sticking out the top until it fell off. No staples.

Next time, get the private insurance operation.

Steve

hehe........

"Gunner" wrote


https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602

Some photos of the shop and other things


You need some Gunk and a power washer, son.

Steve

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 10:33:00 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote


https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602

Some photos of the shop and other things

Looking at your leg scar pic. Sure glad they did mine endoscopically. I
have three one inch scars, one of which is invisible up in my groin area
somewhere. Everyone I talked to said their leg scars took longer to heal
than their heart operation scars. Mebbe if you had the private insurance
operation, you would have smaller scars........... ;-) Also saw your chest
scar. Mine was half as long, and the suture was wound up inside, with just
the nub sticking out the top until it fell off. No staples.

Next time, get the private insurance operation.

Steve

hehe........


Chuckle..it was done at one of Californias best hospitals.. Loma Linda

The doctors appologized for the job they did..and the 172 staples to
close up their work. They never did tell me what they did wrong..but
they admitted "wrong doing" and dropped the bill. That and the stroke
and how they handled that too.....

As Id mentioned before..I dropped the insurance in November..simply
couldnt afford it any longer with the economy going into the
toilet..and had the heart attack 2 months later in January.

Shrug...mans got do do what a man has to do. If Id sold every scrap,
every tool, every firearm, every toy and put myself out on the
street..I couldnt have come up with the $185k the stroke was billed
at.

So..I didnt.

Now Im like 45 million other Americans and 25 million illegal
aliens....paying what I can, when I can.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 10:34:09 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote


https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602

Some photos of the shop and other things


You need some Gunk and a power washer, son.

Steve

Ive got a power washer. It needs a motor. Got a nice Hotsey in fact.

Got a case of pretty decent foaming cleaner from O Reilly auto parts.
Works pretty good.

But..most of it is more like thick dust. Dusty here..and the dogs
romping in the shop tend to coat everything with a thick layer of dust
which of course settles on the oil. Wiping it off simply lets stuff
Rust..so I dont wipe off non essential Stuff very often.

I think the last pictures were of 18 months or longer ago. Ill have to
shoot some photos of it as it is today.

Gunner, making note to shoot photos of the current shop


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 07:34:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message

If you want to get fancy you cut holes sideways at the root of each
blocked channel and weld in two or three chunks of mild steel tube
to
cross over to the clear channels on each side. Water goes down, then
takes the detour to the sides, then out. And even if one or both
clogs with leaves it still can't get over the sleeve.

-- Bruce --

I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.

jsw

Yabbut those panels are only corrugated on 4" or 6" centers - you can
only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
custom oval flue-pipe.

That's why I suggested elsewhere to use a standard radiant-pipe style
natural gas (or propane) heater and then pop through the roof with 4-O
B-Vent flue. Problem is you can't use B-Vent on a wood stove, it gets
way too hot.

-- Bruce --

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 07:34:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.

jsw

Yabbut those panels are only corrugated on 4" or 6" centers - you
can
only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
custom oval flue-pipe. ...
-- Bruce --

The ridge of the roof, not of a corrugation, or close enough to it
that a sheet can overlap the ridge and the upper edge of the roof
fitting.
http://www.deyparts.net/thumbnail/pr...630987/150/150
jsw

On Mon, 31 Dec 2012 15:00:17 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 07:34:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.

jsw

Yabbut those panels are only corrugated on 4" or 6" centers - you
can
only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
custom oval flue-pipe. ...
-- Bruce --

The ridge of the roof, not of a corrugation, or close enough to it
that a sheet can overlap the ridge and the upper edge of the roof
fitting.
http://www.deyparts.net/thumbnail/pr...630987/150/150
jsw

Go back and read the thread again - he's on a flat Lean-To carport
style roof on one side of a Mobilehome. There is no roof ridge
available on a flat roof (only a High and Low side) so that won't do
any good.

It's deep corrugated steel panels originally made to be the roof deck
on a commercial building, the base of any roof flashing like that has
to have the matching corrugations and nobody makes them. A flat
based flashing isn't going to work, and a custom flashing would be far
more effort (and money) than it's worth.

-- Bruce --

On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 08:29:48 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:


It's deep corrugated steel panels originally made to be the roof deck
on a commercial building, the base of any roof flashing like that has
to have the matching corrugations and nobody makes them. A flat
based flashing isn't going to work, and a custom flashing would be far
more effort (and money) than it's worth.

He says he has a ton of welding equipment and brags on his skills at
using it. So a custom curb should be a piece of cake and cost next to
nothing. But you have to consider the obvious - the stove is currently
backed up against OSB sheeting because anything better is too much
effort to expect from the owner. Therefore there's virtually zero
chance of a custom curb installation or anything like it even if
someone else welded it up and handed it to him for free.

On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 08:29:48 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Mon, 31 Dec 2012 15:00:17 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 07:34:21 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added
flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.

jsw

Yabbut those panels are only corrugated on 4" or 6" centers - you
can
only pull that off (sneaking through only one ridge) by making a
custom oval flue-pipe. ...
-- Bruce --

The ridge of the roof, not of a corrugation, or close enough to it
that a sheet can overlap the ridge and the upper edge of the roof
fitting.
http://www.deyparts.net/thumbnail/pr...630987/150/150
jsw

Go back and read the thread again - he's on a flat Lean-To carport
style roof on one side of a Mobilehome. There is no roof ridge
available on a flat roof (only a High and Low side) so that won't do
any good.

It's deep corrugated steel panels originally made to be the roof deck
on a commercial building, the base of any roof flashing like that has
to have the matching corrugations and nobody makes them. A flat
based flashing isn't going to work, and a custom flashing would be far
more effort (and money) than it's worth.

-- Bruce --


The low end of the roof is enclosed by a rectangular piece of aluminum
that has a slot in one side that the roof goes into and runs its
length..some 65'. It works as a rain gutter. Well..it would if it
wasnt filled with dust, dirt and debris from the trees, the grape
vines and a cubic buttload of cat ****.

How the cats get up there is another thing to figure out.

Sigh

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie