A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

Ignoramus7601 fired this volley in
news
1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?



Ig, 2" pipe is very strong in compression, but pretty narrow. Given its
column strength, someone might be encouraged to put a VERY heavy item on
the table, then attempt to move it, bending or breaking off the tiny
legs.

You should gusset them or diagonally brace them. I'd also put at least
one leg dead in the middle, to prevent bowing with heavy, centered loads.

I personally prefer about 32" high, but that's a highly "personalized"
matter, and partly hinges on what sort of work will be done on the table.
For tiny work, 36" might be better.

If it's not too much work, you could put footed telescoping rods into the
bottoms of the tubular legs, and drill a few holes for cross-bolts.

Lloyd

I know this is almost OT, but is the pipe that you have cast iron or is it
cast steel?
If it's cast iron, can you still weld it well to the plate?

I am not much of a welder, but I'd be a little concerned about the plate
warping where the leg welds occur. This might be a bad thing for flatness.

Also, I'd go with a minimum plate thickness of 1/2" or even more. I suppose
it depends on what the user is going to do with it. My kid is a welder by
trade and he tacks things to the table all the time to hold the parts in
place. In that case, I assume that thicker is better.

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

In article ,
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ignoramus7601 fired this volley in
news
1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?



Ig, 2" pipe is very strong in compression, but pretty narrow. Given its
column strength, someone might be encouraged to put a VERY heavy item on
the table, then attempt to move it, bending or breaking off the tiny
legs.

You should gusset them or diagonally brace them. I'd also put at least
one leg dead in the middle, to prevent bowing with heavy, centered loads.

I personally prefer about 32" high, but that's a highly "personalized"
matter, and partly hinges on what sort of work will be done on the table.
For tiny work, 36" might be better.

If it's not too much work, you could put footed telescoping rods into the
bottoms of the tubular legs, and drill a few holes for cross-bolts.

Yes, and make at least one leg of adjustable length, so the floors need
not be perfectly flat.

Joe Gwinn

"Pete S" wrote in
message
...
I know this is almost OT, but is the pipe that
you have cast iron or is it cast steel?
If it's cast iron, can you still weld it well to
the plate?

I am not much of a welder, but I'd be a little
concerned about the plate warping where the leg
welds occur. This might be a bad thing for
flatness.

Also, I'd go with a minimum plate thickness of
1/2" or even more. I suppose it depends on what
the user is going to do with it. My kid is a
welder by trade and he tacks things to the table
all the time to hold the parts in place. In
that case, I assume that thicker is better.

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

Tacking things to the table is a very bad habit!
Do not get caught
doing that to my table. The scars have to be
ground off and
after a while the table is nowhere close to being
flat. I have
a table 1 1/4 thick astm514 (T-1) with 3x5 angle
iron for legs
with the heel of the angle towards the center so
that a clamp
can be used at the very corner of the table.

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.


Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc

Absolutely! It doesn't take much. I'd be comfy with 5/8" angle
halfway down the legs on the outside, but use whatcha got. Leave room
for storage and the ability to clean underneath it.

Go diagonal, too, between legs under the table. Welding tables get
lots of weight tossed onto them from all angles, so build 'em beefy.



2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

That depends on your work. If you do only small work at table height,
I'd shift that height up to 40+ inches. Lots of big heavy work might
indicate the need of a lower table. Since you have cranes, moving
work to the table isn't a problem and doesn't affect height. To me,
the ideal height is variable, depending upon what type of welding I'm
doing and where it is on the project. I hate bending over for long
times.

For sale, go 30". People are comfortable with sizes they're familiar
with.

For yourself, why not build a hydraulic table which can stand between
18-42" tall, Ig? You have the technology. If not, find some
hydraulic camper jacks to make it real.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Pete S" wrote in message
...
I know this is almost OT, but is the pipe that you have cast iron or is it
cast steel?
If it's cast iron, can you still weld it well to the plate?

I am not much of a welder, but I'd be a little concerned about the plate
warping where the leg welds occur. This might be a bad thing for
flatness.

Also, I'd go with a minimum plate thickness of 1/2" or even more. I
suppose it depends on what the user is going to do with it. My kid is a
welder by trade and he tacks things to the table all the time to hold the
parts in place. In that case, I assume that thicker is better.

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

Tacking things to the table is a very bad habit! Do not get caught
doing that to my table. The scars have to be ground off and
after a while the table is nowhere close to being flat. I have
a table 1 1/4 thick astm514 (T-1) with 3x5 angle iron for legs

Holy ****.... dat table may fall to the center of the earth.....
--
EA



with the heel of the angle towards the center so that a clamp
can be used at the very corner of the table.

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

i

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.


Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc

Absolutely! It doesn't take much. I'd be comfy with 5/8" angle
halfway down the legs on the outside, but use whatcha got. Leave room
for storage and the ability to clean underneath it.

Go diagonal, too, between legs under the table. Welding tables get
lots of weight tossed onto them from all angles, so build 'em beefy.



2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

That depends on your work. If you do only small work at table height,
I'd shift that height up to 40+ inches. Lots of big heavy work might
indicate the need of a lower table. Since you have cranes, moving
work to the table isn't a problem and doesn't affect height. To me,
the ideal height is variable, depending upon what type of welding I'm
doing and where it is on the project. I hate bending over for long
times.

Someone, here or on SEJW, said this: Make welding tables elbow height,
period.

Now, having said that, my elbow height is 48", which is a high table indeed,
so I made my table 42".
Now, let me tell you, am I glad I made that table 42" instead of effing 30
or 36".... 30" for a welding table, unless you are ALWAYS going to SIT
(like, for jewelry), is just ridiculous -- put your chiropractor on
retainer. Only someone who doesn't weld (or NEVER welded) would entertain
such an idea.

BUT, perhaps the sales advice is sage: make them 30" for people who don't
know any better.... lol

AND, I may well have appreciated the 48" ht, but I just didn't have the
nerve....

Also:

Thicker is better, but portability/economy may also be an issue.
I have a 4x8+ welding table, made from 2x4s, 3/4 ply, with 1/8 steel on
top -- in pieces, at that.
Yeah, I know, a sissy welding table if there ever was one, but it is heavily
braced for flatness, and for a Lincoln 225 or Miller equiv (I have the
Miller Econotig), such a table is MORE than adequate, esp since, well, I
don't do oodles of welding.

AND, an easy, inexpensive diy solution. Humping 3/8 plate is no joke, and
not all steel houses will cut it for you.
Heh, a 4x8 sheet of 1/8 steel is no picnic either, but there are a few
options for cutting/shearing it, including 7.25 steel cutting blades for a
circ. saw.
But, if you are going to make a 4x8 table, you don't need to cut it, anyway.
That's a nice size table to have, which can be used as a universal table, as
well -- just flop wood (or even carpet) on top of that, if you don't want
the steel surface.

The neat thing about using pieces of 1/8 steel is that if you manage to
damage an area, you can eaily replace it.
A quiltwork welding table?? lol

But even when I was TIGing away with some prolificity, 1/8 steel on ply it
was more than adequate. If you have a really high-heat situration, you can
alway keep a 1x1 pc of 1/2 steel around, and use that for the heat.

Yeah, I know.... fire.... then use 1/4 sheetrock between the 1/8 steel
and 3/4 ply.

Anyway, just some idears.... 3/8 is great, thicker is greater, but 1/8 was
enough for me.
--
EA


For sale, go 30". People are comfortable with sizes they're familiar
with.

For yourself, why not build a hydraulic table which can stand between
18-42" tall, Ig? You have the technology. If not, find some
hydraulic camper jacks to make it real.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative
effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 12:46:33 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I try to never underestimate the depth of stupidity in the world.
There are idiots everywhere who hurt themselves and try to get someone
else to pay for it. Far too many succeed. (see SawStop story, etc.)
Ladders have 27 different warning labels on them nowadays, each the
result of someone being stupid while on one.


I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

If nothing else, put perimeter bars around the leg bottoms so they
can't splay.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 12:46:33 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I try to never underestimate the depth of stupidity in the world.
There are idiots everywhere who hurt themselves and try to get someone
else to pay for it. Far too many succeed. (see SawStop story, etc.)
Ladders have 27 different warning labels on them nowadays, each the
result of someone being stupid while on one.

I would be much more alarmed if I was making saw stops or ladders,
scaffolds, and so on.

But this is a welding table. It stays in one place.


I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

If nothing else, put perimeter bars around the leg bottoms so they
can't splay.


That makes some sense, yes

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

32 5/16" tall and yes..they need cross bracing so you can put a lower
shelf covered with Norwegian A grade fir plywood covered in a shellac
made of virgin Columbian Blood Flower juice and genetically engineered
shellac berries..(from Vladovostoc only).

What kind of craftsman are you if you didnt know this!?!!

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 08:30:35 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ignoramus7601 fired this volley in
news
1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?



Ig, 2" pipe is very strong in compression, but pretty narrow. Given its
column strength, someone might be encouraged to put a VERY heavy item on
the table, then attempt to move it, bending or breaking off the tiny
legs.

You should gusset them or diagonally brace them. I'd also put at least
one leg dead in the middle, to prevent bowing with heavy, centered loads.

I personally prefer about 32" high, but that's a highly "personalized"
matter, and partly hinges on what sort of work will be done on the table.
For tiny work, 36" might be better.

If it's not too much work, you could put footed telescoping rods into the
bottoms of the tubular legs, and drill a few holes for cross-bolts.

Lloyd

Indeed. I far and away prefer 4" pipe. Properly welded and while I do
like the idea of a center post..that sorta precludes a shelf or welder
stable under the table.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 15:57:25 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 12:46:33 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I try to never underestimate the depth of stupidity in the world.
There are idiots everywhere who hurt themselves and try to get someone
else to pay for it. Far too many succeed. (see SawStop story, etc.)
Ladders have 27 different warning labels on them nowadays, each the
result of someone being stupid while on one.

I would be much more alarmed if I was making saw stops or ladders,
scaffolds, and so on.

But this is a welding table. It stays in one place.


I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

If nothing else, put perimeter bars around the leg bottoms so they
can't splay.


That makes some sense, yes
My welding bench is a piece of 3/4 steel plate welded to a frame made
from 2" square tubing. I could have, and should have, just welded the
legs to the steel top, it would have made clamping things to the table
easier. The legs all have casters on the ends so that I can roll it
around. I used 1" square tubing to brace the perimeter at the leg
bottoms only on three sides so that I can sit at the bench and TIG
weld. Because of the casters the perimeter bars are about 5 inches
above the floor which makes them nice to set a foot on when welding
while standing. I welded vertically two 2"x3" x 1/4" thick plates to
the underside of the table at the back. The plates are parallel to the
back edge and located at either side. They are for ground clamps and
were one of my better ideas.
Eric

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

I built one similar to what you describe. I framed up the supports for
a shelf about 12 inches from the ground which is a handy place to keep
stuff and also braces the legs.
--
Cheers,
John B.

"Ignoramus7601" wrote in message

Think about it again. You are standing in front of the table and you
are holding a welding rod holder and a 14 inch welding rod.

Where do you want the table to be? At your elbow height? Or lower?

How tall is the work? Acorn welding tables are fairly low.
http://www.vannattabros.com/shop19.html

When I use my hydraulic lift as a welding table the comfortable height
can be anywhere from 2' to 5'.

jsw

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 16:22:16 -0800, wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 15:57:25 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 12:46:33 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I try to never underestimate the depth of stupidity in the world.
There are idiots everywhere who hurt themselves and try to get someone
else to pay for it. Far too many succeed. (see SawStop story, etc.)
Ladders have 27 different warning labels on them nowadays, each the
result of someone being stupid while on one.

I would be much more alarmed if I was making saw stops or ladders,
scaffolds, and so on.

But this is a welding table. It stays in one place.


I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

If nothing else, put perimeter bars around the leg bottoms so they
can't splay.


That makes some sense, yes
My welding bench is a piece of 3/4 steel plate welded to a frame made
from 2" square tubing. I could have, and should have, just welded the
legs to the steel top, it would have made clamping things to the table
easier. The legs all have casters on the ends so that I can roll it
around. I used 1" square tubing to brace the perimeter at the leg
bottoms only on three sides so that I can sit at the bench and TIG
weld. Because of the casters the perimeter bars are about 5 inches
above the floor which makes them nice to set a foot on when welding
while standing. I welded vertically two 2"x3" x 1/4" thick plates to
the underside of the table at the back. The plates are parallel to the
back edge and located at either side. They are for ground clamps and
were one of my better ideas.

Yes, I'll bet they are.

My table is a rotating floor grate with 1-1/2" x 5/16" vertical bars.
About 3' square, smaller pipe set into a 3" upright with tripod base
made from 3" U stock. It followed me home from Gunners one year.
The grates stop round stock from rolling around better than I had
imagined. It lives outside and I take a wire brush to one little area
for grounding when I need to use it. The perfect zero-cost table...if
I don't need to fab up something perfectly square.

The single upright reminds me not to put really heavy stuff on top.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On 2012-12-02, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ignoramus7601" wrote in message

Think about it again. You are standing in front of the table and you
are holding a welding rod holder and a 14 inch welding rod.

Where do you want the table to be? At your elbow height? Or lower?

How tall is the work? Acorn welding tables are fairly low.
http://www.vannattabros.com/shop19.html

When I use my hydraulic lift as a welding table the comfortable height
can be anywhere from 2' to 5'.

The one I made today, is 30 inches tall.

i

I'm building a target system and use 3/8" thick, 4x4 angle iron.
3/8 might be light. Legs have to be attached top and bottom.

Martin

On 12/1/2012 10:15 AM, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Pete S" wrote in
message
...
I know this is almost OT, but is the pipe that
you have cast iron or is it cast steel?
If it's cast iron, can you still weld it well to
the plate?

I am not much of a welder, but I'd be a little
concerned about the plate warping where the leg
welds occur. This might be a bad thing for
flatness.

Also, I'd go with a minimum plate thickness of
1/2" or even more. I suppose it depends on what
the user is going to do with it. My kid is a
welder by trade and he tacks things to the table
all the time to hold the parts in place. In
that case, I assume that thicker is better.

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

Tacking things to the table is a very bad habit!
Do not get caught
doing that to my table. The scars have to be
ground off and
after a while the table is nowhere close to being
flat. I have
a table 1 1/4 thick astm514 (T-1) with 3x5 angle
iron for legs
with the heel of the angle towards the center so
that a clamp
can be used at the very corner of the table.

"Ignoramus7601" wrote in message
...
On 2012-12-02, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ignoramus7601" wrote in
message

Think about it again. You are standing in front of the table and
you
are holding a welding rod holder and a 14 inch welding rod.

Where do you want the table to be? At your elbow height? Or lower?

How tall is the work? Acorn welding tables are fairly low.
http://www.vannattabros.com/shop19.html

When I use my hydraulic lift as a welding table the comfortable
height
can be anywhere from 2' to 5'.

The one I made today, is 30 inches tall.
i

You could offer to cut the 10' pipe in thirds instead of quarters and
let the user shorten them if they want. Presumably customers for
welding tables can cut steel.
IIRC the standard height for sit-down tables is 29", for standing it's
36".
jsw

I say a 8 by 20' table of an acorn table - it was in the old Southern
Pacific engine house - on a navy base - owned by a club now. They were
in the process of burning out the bolts in the boiler to replace pates
and get the engine back up to inspection grade. It was a massive shop
because boilers and all sorts of stuff would be dogged down and worked on.
That is on the west SFO bay.

Martin

On 12/1/2012 7:35 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ignoramus7601" wrote in message

Think about it again. You are standing in front of the table and you
are holding a welding rod holder and a 14 inch welding rod.

Where do you want the table to be? At your elbow height? Or lower?

How tall is the work? Acorn welding tables are fairly low.
http://www.vannattabros.com/shop19.html

When I use my hydraulic lift as a welding table the comfortable height
can be anywhere from 2' to 5'.

jsw

On 2012-12-01, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

32 5/16" tall and yes..they need cross bracing so you can put a lower
shelf covered with Norwegian A grade fir plywood covered in a shellac
made of virgin Columbian Blood Flower juice and genetically engineered
shellac berries..(from Vladovostoc only).

What kind of craftsman are you if you didnt know this!?!!

That shellac gets thinned with vodka

i

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 23:16:48 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

32 5/16" tall and yes..they need cross bracing so you can put a lower
shelf covered with Norwegian A grade fir plywood covered in a shellac
made of virgin Columbian Blood Flower juice and genetically engineered
shellac berries..(from Vladovostoc only).

What kind of craftsman are you if you didnt know this!?!!

That shellac gets thinned with vodka

He was right about everything but one. Those berries came from the
male lac bug and is cut with Russo-Baltique. Use the finish well.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On Dec 1, 7:56*am, Ignoramus7601
wrote:
A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

Do you plan on selling locally or will you ship?

If shipping then you have to plan for it in the design.

TMT

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 15:57:25 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 12:46:33 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I try to never underestimate the depth of stupidity in the world.
There are idiots everywhere who hurt themselves and try to get someone
else to pay for it. Far too many succeed. (see SawStop story, etc.)
Ladders have 27 different warning labels on them nowadays, each the
result of someone being stupid while on one.

I would be much more alarmed if I was making saw stops or ladders,
scaffolds, and so on.

But this is a welding table. It stays in one place.

Until the guy (who doesnt own a forklift) decides to move it, and
folds up one leg and it becomes a rather nifty guillotine, severing
legs, feet and cats from all 9 of their lives.

You have had a majority of the actual smart people on this group
suggest you make it better..using heavier legs and bracing.

If you choose to disreguard this advice...on your head be it.

Shrug




I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

If nothing else, put perimeter bars around the leg bottoms so they
can't splay.


That makes some sense, yes

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 17:52:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 16:22:16 -0800, wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 15:57:25 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 12:46:33 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I try to never underestimate the depth of stupidity in the world.
There are idiots everywhere who hurt themselves and try to get someone
else to pay for it. Far too many succeed. (see SawStop story, etc.)
Ladders have 27 different warning labels on them nowadays, each the
result of someone being stupid while on one.

I would be much more alarmed if I was making saw stops or ladders,
scaffolds, and so on.

But this is a welding table. It stays in one place.


I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

If nothing else, put perimeter bars around the leg bottoms so they
can't splay.


That makes some sense, yes
My welding bench is a piece of 3/4 steel plate welded to a frame made
from 2" square tubing. I could have, and should have, just welded the
legs to the steel top, it would have made clamping things to the table
easier. The legs all have casters on the ends so that I can roll it
around. I used 1" square tubing to brace the perimeter at the leg
bottoms only on three sides so that I can sit at the bench and TIG
weld. Because of the casters the perimeter bars are about 5 inches
above the floor which makes them nice to set a foot on when welding
while standing. I welded vertically two 2"x3" x 1/4" thick plates to
the underside of the table at the back. The plates are parallel to the
back edge and located at either side. They are for ground clamps and
were one of my better ideas.

Yes, I'll bet they are.

My table is a rotating floor grate with 1-1/2" x 5/16" vertical bars.
About 3' square, smaller pipe set into a 3" upright with tripod base
made from 3" U stock. It followed me home from Gunners one year.
The grates stop round stock from rolling around better than I had
imagined. It lives outside and I take a wire brush to one little area
for grounding when I need to use it. The perfect zero-cost table...if
I don't need to fab up something perfectly square.

The single upright reminds me not to put really heavy stuff on top.


I was wondering where that thing had gotten off to (the stroke..sigh)

Glad its doing a good job for you!

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 23:16:48 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

32 5/16" tall and yes..they need cross bracing so you can put a lower
shelf covered with Norwegian A grade fir plywood covered in a shellac
made of virgin Columbian Blood Flower juice and genetically engineered
shellac berries..(from Vladovostoc only).

What kind of craftsman are you if you didnt know this!?!!

That shellac gets thinned with vodka

But only Polish made Chopin vodka! Russian vodka is a poor runner
up and makes the shellac lumpy (like many russian women)

Grin

Gunner


i

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Sun, 02 Dec 2012 05:56:49 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 23:16:48 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

32 5/16" tall and yes..they need cross bracing so you can put a lower
shelf covered with Norwegian A grade fir plywood covered in a shellac
made of virgin Columbian Blood Flower juice and genetically engineered
shellac berries..(from Vladovostoc only).

What kind of craftsman are you if you didnt know this!?!!

That shellac gets thinned with vodka

He was right about everything but one. Those berries came from the
male lac bug and is cut with Russo-Baltique. Use the finish well.


(VBG)!! Very good! I was wondering who would catch that!


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Sun, 02 Dec 2012 14:02:57 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 17:52:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 16:22:16 -0800, wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 15:57:25 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 12:46:33 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I try to never underestimate the depth of stupidity in the world.
There are idiots everywhere who hurt themselves and try to get someone
else to pay for it. Far too many succeed. (see SawStop story, etc.)
Ladders have 27 different warning labels on them nowadays, each the
result of someone being stupid while on one.

I would be much more alarmed if I was making saw stops or ladders,
scaffolds, and so on.

But this is a welding table. It stays in one place.


I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

If nothing else, put perimeter bars around the leg bottoms so they
can't splay.


That makes some sense, yes
My welding bench is a piece of 3/4 steel plate welded to a frame made
from 2" square tubing. I could have, and should have, just welded the
legs to the steel top, it would have made clamping things to the table
easier. The legs all have casters on the ends so that I can roll it
around. I used 1" square tubing to brace the perimeter at the leg
bottoms only on three sides so that I can sit at the bench and TIG
weld. Because of the casters the perimeter bars are about 5 inches
above the floor which makes them nice to set a foot on when welding
while standing. I welded vertically two 2"x3" x 1/4" thick plates to
the underside of the table at the back. The plates are parallel to the
back edge and located at either side. They are for ground clamps and
were one of my better ideas.

Yes, I'll bet they are.

My table is a rotating floor grate with 1-1/2" x 5/16" vertical bars.
About 3' square, smaller pipe set into a 3" upright with tripod base
made from 3" U stock. It followed me home from Gunners one year.
The grates stop round stock from rolling around better than I had
imagined. It lives outside and I take a wire brush to one little area
for grounding when I need to use it. The perfect zero-cost table...if
I don't need to fab up something perfectly square.

The single upright reminds me not to put really heavy stuff on top.


I was wondering where that thing had gotten off to (the stroke..sigh)

Eek! My memory is going just a tiny bit and that's not fun. I can't
imagine what you're feeling nowadays with chunks just _gone_.
Condolences, mon.


Glad its doing a good job for you!

Y'know, the drill press is still sitting unused, ut I just sold the
little HF a couple months ago. I bought the idler pulley and
installed it over a year ago, but never installed that into the DP.
Now that I have a bit more room in there, I need to get it going, and
now I have just enough room to do it.

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is
necessary that he should not only be capable
of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

On Sun, 02 Dec 2012 14:10:32 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Dec 2012 05:56:49 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 23:16:48 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Gunner wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.

I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.

My questions are

1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?

32 5/16" tall and yes..they need cross bracing so you can put a lower
shelf covered with Norwegian A grade fir plywood covered in a shellac
made of virgin Columbian Blood Flower juice and genetically engineered
shellac berries..(from Vladovostoc only).

What kind of craftsman are you if you didnt know this!?!!

That shellac gets thinned with vodka

He was right about everything but one. Those berries came from the
male lac bug and is cut with Russo-Baltique. Use the finish well.


(VBG)!! Very good! I was wondering who would catch that!

Here's the other half of that joke: http://tinyurl.com/cn59zyp

--
....in order that a man may be happy, it is
necessary that he should not only be capable
of his work, but a good judge of his work.
-- John Ruskin

On Sun, 02 Dec 2012 14:43:25 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Dec 2012 14:02:57 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 17:52:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 16:22:16 -0800, wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 15:57:25 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 12:46:33 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

On 2012-12-01, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:

A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.

Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.

I would not be losing my sleep over liability involved in making a
welding table. It is not a spaceship or a scaffold.

I try to never underestimate the depth of stupidity in the world.
There are idiots everywhere who hurt themselves and try to get someone
else to pay for it. Far too many succeed. (see SawStop story, etc.)
Ladders have 27 different warning labels on them nowadays, each the
result of someone being stupid while on one.

I would be much more alarmed if I was making saw stops or ladders,
scaffolds, and so on.

But this is a welding table. It stays in one place.


I am still thinking about reinforcements, the need thereof, etc.

If nothing else, put perimeter bars around the leg bottoms so they
can't splay.


That makes some sense, yes
My welding bench is a piece of 3/4 steel plate welded to a frame made
from 2" square tubing. I could have, and should have, just welded the
legs to the steel top, it would have made clamping things to the table
easier. The legs all have casters on the ends so that I can roll it
around. I used 1" square tubing to brace the perimeter at the leg
bottoms only on three sides so that I can sit at the bench and TIG
weld. Because of the casters the perimeter bars are about 5 inches
above the floor which makes them nice to set a foot on when welding
while standing. I welded vertically two 2"x3" x 1/4" thick plates to
the underside of the table at the back. The plates are parallel to the
back edge and located at either side. They are for ground clamps and
were one of my better ideas.

Yes, I'll bet they are.

My table is a rotating floor grate with 1-1/2" x 5/16" vertical bars.
About 3' square, smaller pipe set into a 3" upright with tripod base
made from 3" U stock. It followed me home from Gunners one year.
The grates stop round stock from rolling around better than I had
imagined. It lives outside and I take a wire brush to one little area
for grounding when I need to use it. The perfect zero-cost table...if
I don't need to fab up something perfectly square.

The single upright reminds me not to put really heavy stuff on top.


I was wondering where that thing had gotten off to (the stroke..sigh)

Eek! My memory is going just a tiny bit and that's not fun. I can't
imagine what you're feeling nowadays with chunks just _gone_.
Condolences, mon.

Its not like they are completely gone...just...Covered Up.

Like my van. I believe I mentioned it was parked at a buddies machine
shop for over a year after the stroke..and I went in one day to
visit..he asked me for the keys so he could move it. Van? What van?
Only van I knew about, Id given away a few months before. He looked at
me a little funny, and walked me out into the back parking lot...and
it was like someone had opened a stage curtain. I suddenly remembered
I owned another van. I even remembered where Id hidden the keys.
(rear bumper)

https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602/Van

So I didn't really forget a lot (some) but a lot has been covered up.
When I dug into my bullet molds last weekend..it was like Christmas
all over again. Ive been bidding on molds for my 375 H&H and the .41
mag..and I already had molds for both. (2) for the .41 .

Hell..I found at least 9 molds I never remembered getting.

Its not been a real handicap..but it has caused me to trip once or
twice.




Glad its doing a good job for you!

Y'know, the drill press is still sitting unused, ut I just sold the
little HF a couple months ago. I bought the idler pulley and
installed it over a year ago, but never installed that into the DP.
Now that I have a bit more room in there, I need to get it going, and
now I have just enough room to do it.

Drill press?

Sigh

Shrug

Bullet molds

..25
Lyman 257312, 2 cavity, FNGC, 88gr (25-20/250-3000)

6.5
Lyman # 268645BV, 2 Cavity, GC, 152gr "High Speed" borerider, gas
check

..270
Lee C-270-125-R GC

7mm
RCBS 2 cavity, 145g Silloute .2775 nose Part # 55000 GC
RCBS 2 Cavity, 168 FN, GC # 55000
RCBS 2 Cavity, 168 semi pointed, GC Part # 82018
Lee C285-130-R 90360

..30
Lyman # 308291. 1cavity, RNGC 170gr
Ideal U311467, 1cavity, Lovern GC, 180gr
Lyman 314299BV, 2 Cavity, GC, 180gr (308-Nagant)
Lee 90366 1cavity 150gr CG FP


9mm
Lyman 356402, 2 cavity, 120gr pointed

,357
Lyman # 358477, 4 cavity with handles. .360, 150gr
RCBS 38-150-KT, Double cavity, 359, 150gr
Modern-Bond # B - 358 - 742 with handles, .358, 160gr RN
Lyman # 358432, 2 cavity, ,358 160g full wadcutter

LBT 360, 250 gr Spitzer Gas Check??

..323
Ideal 323471, 2 Cavity, GC, 215gr Semi pointed

..375
LBT .376, 240gr LFN Gas check???


..401
Lyman # 40143, 1 cavity, 180gr FP (38-44)

..410
Lee 410 195 SWC 1cavity
Lee 410 195 SWC 2 Cavity


..429
RCBS 44-245 KT
RCBS 440-R 2 cavity round ball

..452
Saco #130, 4 cavity with handles. .452, 185gr SWC
Lyman # 452460 1 cavity, .454, 200gr SWC
RCBS 45-201-KT (ACP)
RCBS 45-255-KT (Long Colt)
Lee 90489 HP, 225g Hollowpoint round nose 1 cavity


..457
Lyman # 457658DV 1cavity, .458, 500gr Sp
Lee 457 340 F 340gr Flatpoint, no GC
Lee .457 RB, 1 cavity Round Ball

50
Lee .90448 .490 RB, 2 cavity

54
Lee 54 caliber 380gr Maxiball/Conical


Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

for more information regarding this topic visit:
http://goo.gl/r0B7j