"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 07:56:27 -0600, Ignoramus7601
wrote:
A couple months ago, I discovered that "welding tables", meaning
sturdy tables with thick steel tops 3/8 to 1 inch, are very hot
selling items, desired by many people and easy to sell.
Have you researched the liability issues of fabbing to sell? I'd want
that on my umbrella policy if nothing else.
Right now I have several steel plates of such thicknesses and a
quantity of 2 inch pipe.
I plan on making tables by just cutting off 30" or so pieces of said
pipe and welding them as table legs to the plates.
My questions are
1) do they need any reinforcements, such as cross braces etc
Absolutely! It doesn't take much. I'd be comfy with 5/8" angle
halfway down the legs on the outside, but use whatcha got. Leave room
for storage and the ability to clean underneath it.
Go diagonal, too, between legs under the table. Welding tables get
lots of weight tossed onto them from all angles, so build 'em beefy.
2) What is the most optimal table height? 30 inches?
That depends on your work. If you do only small work at table height,
I'd shift that height up to 40+ inches. Lots of big heavy work might
indicate the need of a lower table. Since you have cranes, moving
work to the table isn't a problem and doesn't affect height. To me,
the ideal height is variable, depending upon what type of welding I'm
doing and where it is on the project. I hate bending over for long
times.
Someone, here or on SEJW, said this: Make welding tables elbow height,
period.
Now, having said that, my elbow height is 48", which is a high table indeed,
so I made my table 42".
Now, let me tell you, am I glad I made that table 42" instead of effing 30
or 36".... 30" for a welding table, unless you are ALWAYS going to SIT
(like, for jewelry), is just ridiculous -- put your chiropractor on
retainer. Only someone who doesn't weld (or NEVER welded) would entertain
such an idea.
BUT, perhaps the sales advice is sage: make them 30" for people who don't
know any better.... lol
AND, I may well have appreciated the 48" ht, but I just didn't have the
nerve....
Also:
Thicker is better, but portability/economy may also be an issue.
I have a 4x8+ welding table, made from 2x4s, 3/4 ply, with 1/8 steel on
top -- in pieces, at that.
Yeah, I know, a sissy welding table if there ever was one, but it is heavily
braced for flatness, and for a Lincoln 225 or Miller equiv (I have the
Miller Econotig), such a table is MORE than adequate, esp since, well, I
don't do oodles of welding.
AND, an easy, inexpensive diy solution. Humping 3/8 plate is no joke, and
not all steel houses will cut it for you.
Heh, a 4x8 sheet of 1/8 steel is no picnic either, but there are a few
options for cutting/shearing it, including 7.25 steel cutting blades for a
circ. saw.
But, if you are going to make a 4x8 table, you don't need to cut it, anyway.
That's a nice size table to have, which can be used as a universal table, as
well -- just flop wood (or even carpet) on top of that, if you don't want
the steel surface.
The neat thing about using pieces of 1/8 steel is that if you manage to
damage an area, you can eaily replace it.
A quiltwork welding table?? lol
But even when I was TIGing away with some prolificity, 1/8 steel on ply it
was more than adequate. If you have a really high-heat situration, you can
alway keep a 1x1 pc of 1/2 steel around, and use that for the heat.
Yeah, I know.... fire.... then use 1/4 sheetrock between the 1/8 steel
and 3/4 ply.
Anyway, just some idears.... 3/8 is great, thicker is greater, but 1/8 was
enough for me.
--
EA
For sale, go 30". People are comfortable with sizes they're familiar
with.
For yourself, why not build a hydraulic table which can stand between
18-42" tall, Ig? You have the technology. 
If not, find some
hydraulic camper jacks to make it real.
--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative
effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt