Jon Anderson wrote:

Ok, one other item I really want to take down under is my Thermolyne
1400 oven. I've just spent 15 minutes on Google and cannot come up with
a direct contact to the manufacturer, only references to places that
sell them.

It's 110v, 12.5 amp, 1500 watts. Can this be rewired to 240?

Here, my options are a step down transformer, or trade it here for a 220
version. Mine is really clean, has temp gauge, temp control in the form
of a percent on dial, and an indicator light. I also have a relay and a
digital temp controller I've never gotten around to setting up for it.
Really would like to keep it as it's so clean, but willing to trade...

Jon

1500 W isn't a lot, so it's likely to be a single element and thus no
way to rewire for 220V. If for some reason it has two 750W elements it
has the potential to be rewired for 220V.

Why was it you wanted to move to the land of incompatibility?

Jon Anderson wrote :
Ok, one other item I really want to take down under is my Thermolyne 1400
oven. I've just spent 15 minutes on Google and cannot come up with a direct
contact to the manufacturer, only references to places that sell them.

It's 110v, 12.5 amp, 1500 watts. Can this be rewired to 240?

Here, my options are a step down transformer, or trade it here for a 220
version. Mine is really clean, has temp gauge, temp control in the form of a
percent on dial, and an indicator light. I also have a relay and a digital
temp controller I've never gotten around to setting up for it. Really would
like to keep it as it's so clean, but willing to trade...


Jon

Which Model??


http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/ma...0%20FB1400.pdf
Watch the wrap of link.

--
John G

Ok, one other item I really want to take down under is my Thermolyne
1400 oven. I've just spent 15 minutes on Google and cannot come up with
a direct contact to the manufacturer, only references to places that
sell them.

It's 110v, 12.5 amp, 1500 watts. Can this be rewired to 240?

Here, my options are a step down transformer, or trade it here for a 220
version. Mine is really clean, has temp gauge, temp control in the form
of a percent on dial, and an indicator light. I also have a relay and a
digital temp controller I've never gotten around to setting up for it.
Really would like to keep it as it's so clean, but willing to trade...


Jon

On 8/8/2011 4:24 PM, Pete C. wrote:

1500 W isn't a lot, so it's likely to be a single element and thus no
way to rewire for 220V. If for some reason it has two 750W elements it
has the potential to be rewired for 220V.

Ok, I should be able to open it up and determine if it's a single or
dual element.


Why was it you wanted to move to the land of incompatibility?

That's where my wife lives! I'm moving to a lovely little country town.
3 block walk to the downtown, clean air, little traffic, friendly
people, and her house is paid for. We'd both have to work our asses off
here to do half as well as we will there, working part time.
And frankly, I've had a life-long fascination with Australia.
I've never been on the ground in the mid-west, but it's rather like I
would imagine it. One can drive for miles and miles on back roads and
see nary a building. Just rolling hills, fences, and sheep. Lots of
sheep....


Jon

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:35:58 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 8/8/2011 4:24 PM, Pete C. wrote:

1500 W isn't a lot, so it's likely to be a single element and thus no
way to rewire for 220V. If for some reason it has two 750W elements it
has the potential to be rewired for 220V.

Ok, I should be able to open it up and determine if it's a single or
dual element.

I have a slightly larger Thermolyne 1500 which has 4 elements cast in
the muffle walls. They can be connected either 120 or 240. It appears
yours has 4 similar elements, but they come as a pre-connected set and
are not restrappable. The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

http://www.pollardwater.com/pdf/pdf_...1400Manual.pdf


--
Ned Simmons

Jon Anderson wrote :
On 8/8/2011 4:56 PM, John G wrote:

Which Model??

Model 1400, but an older version without the digital control.


http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/ma...0%20FB1400.pdf

Thanks for the link. I was trying to contact the mfg. to directly ask if it
could be converted to run on 220. From the manual, would appear no, unless
maybe I bought a 220 rated element. Since the manual shows only a single
element, I assume the element differs between the two voltages. Hmm, maybe
I'll contact them and ask. If it can be done, I'll compare the cost vs a
1500+ watt step down transformer.


Jon

My bet is the element will be cheaper than a transformer at least in
Oz.
Dont forget if you buy transformer in US you will have to rewire with
Oz plug and US socket to match one on the oven and you have to look
hard to find US sockets in Oz.

You might be lucky with no digital control, I did not determine from
the cct where the digital conrtol, in the 220volt model, got its power,
maybe from one line and the neutral like some dryers in US.

--
John G.

On 8/8/2011 4:56 PM, John G wrote:

Which Model??

Model 1400, but an older version without the digital control.


http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/ma...0%20FB1400.pdf

Thanks for the link. I was trying to contact the mfg. to directly ask if
it could be converted to run on 220. From the manual, would appear no,
unless maybe I bought a 220 rated element. Since the manual shows only a
single element, I assume the element differs between the two voltages.
Hmm, maybe I'll contact them and ask. If it can be done, I'll compare
the cost vs a 1500+ watt step down transformer.


Jon

On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:

The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Thanks,


Jon

On 8/8/2011 7:24 PM, John G wrote:

My bet is the element will be cheaper than a transformer at least in Oz.
Dont forget if you buy transformer in US you will have to rewire with Oz
plug and US socket to match one on the oven and you have to look hard to
find US sockets in Oz.

I forgot to save the message, but think it was Ned that mentioned having
the model 1500 in 220, 4 elements at $100 each. Doubling the capacity on
a voltage converter, I can get a 3000 watt converter for under $100.

UNfortunately, the one I was looking at says they do not recommend using
for heat producing appliances. I've asked about this citing my
application, have to see what they say.

Looking like I'll be selling/buying/swapping to get a 220 unit or doing
without.


Jon

Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:

The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Thanks,


Jon
Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.

On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 07:58:07 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:

The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Thanks,


Jon
Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.

Unfortunately the elements are cast in refractory slabs that comprise
the walls of the muffle, which complicates the matter. I had
considered making my own when I needed replacements, but I was able to
find a complete set on ebay. I was able to get some info on suitable
castable refractories for the elements, though I'm not sure I could
find it now.

--
Ned Simmons

Ned Simmons wrote:
On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 07:58:07 +0100, David Billington
wrote:


Jon Anderson wrote:

On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:


The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Thanks,


Jon

Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.


Unfortunately the elements are cast in refractory slabs that comprise
the walls of the muffle, which complicates the matter. I had
considered making my own when I needed replacements, but I was able to
find a complete set on ebay. I was able to get some info on suitable
castable refractories for the elements, though I'm not sure I could
find it now.


Yes I noticed the elements were cast into the sides after I posted. I've
done that once and used Greencast 94 as I had it and it had a suitably
low Iron content which I understand is important. I expect the likes of
Harbison Walker, who own AP Green, and are now part of someone else
would have something or Thermal Ceramics. I find Thermal Ceramics in the
UK very useful regarding information and suggesting suitable products
for an application. Fairly easy to get their products also. I would
expect though that by the time you've done the shuttering and all the
other bits involved you'd be better off shopping round and buying the
ready made replacement.

In this case if the Oz regs are like those in the UK then 230V to 110V
transformers used on building sites will be readily available and the
easiest and maybe cheapest option.

Jon Anderson wrote:

On 8/8/2011 10:58 PM, David Billington wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:

The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Thanks,


Jon
Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.

Outside of the casting it into the walls bit... I've only used this oven
half a dozen times in 10 years. If I have to do without, I'll certainly
survive, and I have no shortage of issues to work out regarding this
move. The oven is a minor bit, but still, one of the pieces of the
puzzle... Swapping for a 220 oven is my easiest option, but will look
into this further.

The voltage converter I was looking at on eBay mentions not using it for
loads generating heat, which I took to mean resistive loads.
So I think I'll look up an electrician friend of a friend and ask about
sizing a step down transformer. Would be nice if I could get something
that would handle 3x my biggest anticipated load, and from that, wire US
outlets for my stuff. I've got a whole box of outlets, switches, boxes,
covers, male and female plugs, etc to take so I can have two parallel
circuits. 110 for my stuff, and the native 220 outlets for things I'll
be buying there.

Jon

You *do not* want any "voltage converter", they are only intended for
odd little appliances for travelers. What you need is a proper
continuous duty rated transformer, and 240/480 to 120/240 transformers
are quite common in the US and will do the job if you wire them for 240
in and 240 out. In this configuration they will accept your 240 only
input, and provide a 120/240 center tapped output consistent with US
power. These transformers are commonly used to provide local 120/240
power from 480 feeders in industrial settings, and can be found used
pretty readily in most any size imaginable.

On 8/8/2011 10:58 PM, David Billington wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:

The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Thanks,


Jon
Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.

Outside of the casting it into the walls bit... I've only used this oven
half a dozen times in 10 years. If I have to do without, I'll certainly
survive, and I have no shortage of issues to work out regarding this
move. The oven is a minor bit, but still, one of the pieces of the
puzzle... Swapping for a 220 oven is my easiest option, but will look
into this further.

The voltage converter I was looking at on eBay mentions not using it for
loads generating heat, which I took to mean resistive loads.
So I think I'll look up an electrician friend of a friend and ask about
sizing a step down transformer. Would be nice if I could get something
that would handle 3x my biggest anticipated load, and from that, wire US
outlets for my stuff. I've got a whole box of outlets, switches, boxes,
covers, male and female plugs, etc to take so I can have two parallel
circuits. 110 for my stuff, and the native 220 outlets for things I'll
be buying there.


Jon

On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 10:14:57 -0500, Pete C. wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 10:58 PM, David Billington wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:
The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.

Outside of the casting it into the walls bit... I've only used this
oven half a dozen times in 10 years. If I have to do without, I'll
certainly survive, and I have no shortage of issues to work out
regarding this move. The oven is a minor bit, but still, one of the
pieces of the puzzle... Swapping for a 220 oven is my easiest option,
but will look into this further.

The voltage converter I was looking at on eBay mentions not using it
for loads generating heat, which I took to mean resistive loads. So I
think I'll look up an electrician friend of a friend and ask about
sizing a step down transformer. Would be nice if I could get something
that would handle 3x my biggest anticipated load, and from that, wire
US outlets for my stuff. I've got a whole box of outlets, switches,
boxes, covers, male and female plugs, etc to take so I can have two
parallel circuits. 110 for my stuff, and the native 220 outlets for
things I'll be buying there.

You *do not* want any "voltage converter", they are only intended for
odd little appliances for travelers. What you need is a proper
continuous duty rated transformer, and 240/480 to 120/240 transformers
are quite common in the US and will do the job if you wire them for 240
in and 240 out. In this configuration they will accept your 240 only
input, and provide a 120/240 center tapped output consistent with US
power. These transformers are commonly used to provide local 120/240
power from 480 feeders in industrial settings, and can be found used
pretty readily in most any size imaginable.

For 1400 watts at 50Hz you need a transformer with a core weighing
75 to 100 pounds (at 60Hz, figure 20VA per pound; 5-10% lower at
50Hz, see eg table A in ref [1]) so it might be worth considering
whether to buy the transformer in Australia vs buying one in the US
and shipping it. If you can contact the power company in Au where
you'll be going, ask if they have any disused 2:1 transformers
sitting around that they'll pay you to haul off.

Alternately, any 1400VA transformer with a 240V center-tapped winding
(like Pete mentions) can be used as an auto-transformer to get 120V
from 240V, regardless (except for safety and code considerations) of
what the other windings are.

For a transformer with primary isolated from secondary (which is more
desirable than an auto-transformer), the important characteristics are
windings ratio (2:1 or 1:2) and thickness (hence current limits) of the
wiring. Ordinarily, a transformer designed as a 1:2 step-up power
transformer can be used without problems as a 2:1 step-down. A power
transformer rated for high voltage will work to transform lower voltages,
but current limits still apply. For example, a 1000VA 480-to-240
transformer can be expected to deliver 500VA at 240-to-120. For low
frequencies like 50-60Hz, transformer voltage ratio is equal to turns
ratio, so whether you use an Australian-made vs US-made transformer is
an economic or logistical choice, rather than a technical issue.

BTW, do you know if the 4 heating elements of your Thermolyne 1400 are
in series, parallel, or series-parallel? If either of the latter, it
seems like they'd bring the wires out to connection points, although
Ned Simmons' comment re "not restrappable" and ref [2] seem to make
that unlikely. If you knew the elements are parallel or series-
parallel and wanted to rewire without replacing elements, you'd
probably need to dig into the refractory, find the connection, crimp
on a connector and hi-temp wire, etc -- maybe possible, but impractical
because Kanthal and similar elements get delicate after first firing.

[1] http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=63322
[2] http://www.pollardwater.com/pdf/pdf_web_manuals/BTFB1300-1400Manual.pdf

--
jiw

"Jon Anderson" wrote in message
news
Ok, one other item I really want to take down under is my Thermolyne
1400 oven. I've just spent 15 minutes on Google and cannot come up with
a direct contact to the manufacturer, only references to places that
sell them.

It's 110v, 12.5 amp, 1500 watts. Can this be rewired to 240?

Here, my options are a step down transformer, or trade it here for a 220
version. Mine is really clean, has temp gauge, temp control in the form
of a percent on dial, and an indicator light. I also have a relay and a
digital temp controller I've never gotten around to setting up for it.
Really would like to keep it as it's so clean, but willing to trade...


Jon

Another option not mentioned yet is to add a diode in series
with the heater element. It has to be rated right, 25A @400V
will do nicely, and heatsunk. Note: any control circuitry that
also needs 120V will need to have a step-down xformer as the
diode trick will not work with xformers and some relays. But
now the step-down xformer is a small relatively inexpensive one.
Art

"Artemus" wrote:

Another option not mentioned yet is to add a diode in series
with the heater element. It has to be rated right, 25A @400V
will do nicely, and heatsunk. Note: any control circuitry that
also needs 120V will need to have a step-down xformer as the
diode trick will not work with xformers and some relays. But
now the step-down xformer is a small relatively inexpensive one.
Art


iirc, if you double the voltage you quadruple the power output. Clipping half of sine
wave should give you twice the original power output and might over temp the element.

Wes

On 8/9/2011 7:14 AM, Pete C. wrote:

You *do not* want any "voltage converter", they are only intended
for odd little appliances for travelers.

I do know what the cheap little converters are and that's not what I was
referring to. I used the voltage converter terminology as that's what
the eBay auction called the heavy duty units they sell. These are in
steel cases with overload protection and can be had up to 10,000 watts.


What you need is a proper continuous duty rated transformer, and
240/480 to 120/240 transformers are quite common in the US and will
do the job if you wire them for 240 in and 240 out. In this
configuration they will accept your 240 only input, and provide a
120/240 center tapped output consistent with US power. These
transformers are commonly used to provide local 120/240 power from
480 feeders in industrial settings, and can be found used pretty
readily in most any size imaginable.

This however, sounds like a much better solution. Probably get a lot
more capacity, cheaper, than buying several of the units I was looking
at. I'll look up my buddy's electrician friend and see about scrounging
a used one and having him make -sure- I've got it set up properly before
I go.

Thank you,


Jon

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Artemus" wrote:

Another option not mentioned yet is to add a diode in series
with the heater element. It has to be rated right, 25A @400V
will do nicely, and heatsunk. Note: any control circuitry that
also needs 120V will need to have a step-down xformer as the
diode trick will not work with xformers and some relays. But
now the step-down xformer is a small relatively inexpensive one.
Art


iirc, if you double the voltage you quadruple the power output. Clipping half of
sine
wave should give you twice the original power output and might over temp the
element.

Wes

Oops, major brain fart. You're right. Cancel that.
Art

On 8/9/2011 10:06 AM, James Waldby wrote:

For 1400 watts at 50Hz you need a transformer with a core weighing
75 to 100 pounds (at 60Hz, figure 20VA per pound; 5-10% lower at
50Hz, see eg table A in ref [1]) so it might be worth considering
whether to buy the transformer in Australia vs buying one in the US
and shipping it. If you can contact the power company in Au where
you'll be going, ask if they have any disused 2:1 transformers
sitting around that they'll pay you to haul off.

In general, almost everything I've looked at is a bit, to a -lot- more
expensive there. Since I'm shipping a whole container full of stuff, an
extra hundred or two pound transformer is nothing.

Thanks for the additional info on transformers, just left a message with
my buddy's electrician friend. Hopefully he can help me find something
suitable used at a good price.

BTW, do you know if the 4 heating elements of your Thermolyne 1400 are
in series, parallel, or series-parallel?

From the manual, mine appears to have just one element, cast into the
ceiling and side walls. There's one wire in and one wire out.
Ned's is 220, and from the model number, I think a bigger oven and
certainly wired differently.
If a transformer as you've outlined, properly sized, will do the job for
me then I'm set. In reality, I may well never need it there, but if I do...

Better to have tools and not need them than need them and not have them!


Jon

James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 10:14:57 -0500, Pete C. wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 10:58 PM, David Billington wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:
The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.

Outside of the casting it into the walls bit... I've only used this
oven half a dozen times in 10 years. If I have to do without, I'll
certainly survive, and I have no shortage of issues to work out
regarding this move. The oven is a minor bit, but still, one of the
pieces of the puzzle... Swapping for a 220 oven is my easiest option,
but will look into this further.

The voltage converter I was looking at on eBay mentions not using it
for loads generating heat, which I took to mean resistive loads. So I
think I'll look up an electrician friend of a friend and ask about
sizing a step down transformer. Would be nice if I could get something
that would handle 3x my biggest anticipated load, and from that, wire
US outlets for my stuff. I've got a whole box of outlets, switches,
boxes, covers, male and female plugs, etc to take so I can have two
parallel circuits. 110 for my stuff, and the native 220 outlets for
things I'll be buying there.

You *do not* want any "voltage converter", they are only intended for
odd little appliances for travelers. What you need is a proper
continuous duty rated transformer, and 240/480 to 120/240 transformers
are quite common in the US and will do the job if you wire them for 240
in and 240 out. In this configuration they will accept your 240 only
input, and provide a 120/240 center tapped output consistent with US
power. These transformers are commonly used to provide local 120/240
power from 480 feeders in industrial settings, and can be found used
pretty readily in most any size imaginable.

For 1400 watts at 50Hz you need a transformer with a core weighing
75 to 100 pounds (at 60Hz, figure 20VA per pound; 5-10% lower at

Those weights are way high for that size of transformer.

Jon Anderson wrote:

Ok, one other item I really want to take down under is my Thermolyne
1400 oven. I've just spent 15 minutes on Google and cannot come up with
a direct contact to the manufacturer, only references to places that
sell them.

It's 110v, 12.5 amp, 1500 watts. Can this be rewired to 240?

Here, my options are a step down transformer, or trade it here for a 220
version. Mine is really clean, has temp gauge, temp control in the form
of a percent on dial, and an indicator light. I also have a relay and a
digital temp controller I've never gotten around to setting up for it.
Really would like to keep it as it's so clean, but willing to trade...

Don't haul equipment half-way around the world. Liquidate it here, and
take the cash with you and buy new or used in Oz. The money you'd save
on shipping should make up for any new-vs-used losses.

And for the kind of current demands you're looking for, a step-down
transformer would put a significant bite on your pocketbook.

Good Luck!
Rich

On Tue, 9 Aug 2011 21:36:10 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 10:14:57 -0500, Pete C. wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 10:58 PM, David Billington wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:
The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.

Outside of the casting it into the walls bit... I've only used this
oven half a dozen times in 10 years. If I have to do without, I'll
certainly survive, and I have no shortage of issues to work out
regarding this move. The oven is a minor bit, but still, one of the
pieces of the puzzle... Swapping for a 220 oven is my easiest option,
but will look into this further.

The voltage converter I was looking at on eBay mentions not using it
for loads generating heat, which I took to mean resistive loads. So I
think I'll look up an electrician friend of a friend and ask about
sizing a step down transformer. Would be nice if I could get something
that would handle 3x my biggest anticipated load, and from that, wire
US outlets for my stuff. I've got a whole box of outlets, switches,
boxes, covers, male and female plugs, etc to take so I can have two
parallel circuits. 110 for my stuff, and the native 220 outlets for
things I'll be buying there.

You *do not* want any "voltage converter", they are only intended for
odd little appliances for travelers. What you need is a proper
continuous duty rated transformer, and 240/480 to 120/240 transformers
are quite common in the US and will do the job if you wire them for 240
in and 240 out. In this configuration they will accept your 240 only
input, and provide a 120/240 center tapped output consistent with US
power. These transformers are commonly used to provide local 120/240
power from 480 feeders in industrial settings, and can be found used
pretty readily in most any size imaginable.

For 1400 watts at 50Hz you need a transformer with a core weighing
75 to 100 pounds (at 60Hz, figure 20VA per pound; 5-10% lower at

Those weights are way high for that size of transformer.

Need transformers..drop me an email and Ill see what I have or can get.

You know I have...sources.

Gunner

--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an
Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense
and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have
such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the
fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of
fools that made him their prince".

Cydrome Leader wrote:

James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 10:14:57 -0500, Pete C. wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 10:58 PM, David Billington wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 6:17 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:
The elements are over $100 each for the 1500.

ooh... looks like I'm shopping for a step down transformer...

Or work out how much wire, such as Kanthal A1, you need and wind your
own, it's quite easy to do.

Outside of the casting it into the walls bit... I've only used this
oven half a dozen times in 10 years. If I have to do without, I'll
certainly survive, and I have no shortage of issues to work out
regarding this move. The oven is a minor bit, but still, one of the
pieces of the puzzle... Swapping for a 220 oven is my easiest option,
but will look into this further.

The voltage converter I was looking at on eBay mentions not using it
for loads generating heat, which I took to mean resistive loads. So I
think I'll look up an electrician friend of a friend and ask about
sizing a step down transformer. Would be nice if I could get something
that would handle 3x my biggest anticipated load, and from that, wire
US outlets for my stuff. I've got a whole box of outlets, switches,
boxes, covers, male and female plugs, etc to take so I can have two
parallel circuits. 110 for my stuff, and the native 220 outlets for
things I'll be buying there.

You *do not* want any "voltage converter", they are only intended for
odd little appliances for travelers. What you need is a proper
continuous duty rated transformer, and 240/480 to 120/240 transformers
are quite common in the US and will do the job if you wire them for 240
in and 240 out. In this configuration they will accept your 240 only
input, and provide a 120/240 center tapped output consistent with US
power. These transformers are commonly used to provide local 120/240
power from 480 feeders in industrial settings, and can be found used
pretty readily in most any size imaginable.

For 1400 watts at 50Hz you need a transformer with a core weighing
75 to 100 pounds (at 60Hz, figure 20VA per pound; 5-10% lower at

Those weights are way high for that size of transformer.

I would agree. I have 1KVA 240/480 to 120/240 transformers that are
probably 10#, 3KVA around 25# and a 5KVA that is probably 50#. All of
these have dual independent winding on both the primary and secondary
sides. On the primary sides it is two 240V windings that can be
connected in parallel for 240V input or series for 480V input. On the
secondary side it is two 120V windings that can be parallel connected
for 120V or series connected for 240V. Series connected gives a center
tap so it's normal 120/240 output. These transformers are *very* common
and readily available used. I think I paid $8ea for the 1KVA, $15 for
the 3KVA and $25 for the 5KVA, all used.

Jon Anderson wrote:

On 8/9/2011 7:14 AM, Pete C. wrote:

You *do not* want any "voltage converter", they are only intended
for odd little appliances for travelers.

I do know what the cheap little converters are and that's not what I was
referring to. I used the voltage converter terminology as that's what
the eBay auction called the heavy duty units they sell. These are in
steel cases with overload protection and can be had up to 10,000 watts.

What you need is a proper continuous duty rated transformer, and
240/480 to 120/240 transformers are quite common in the US and will
do the job if you wire them for 240 in and 240 out. In this
configuration they will accept your 240 only input, and provide a
120/240 center tapped output consistent with US power. These
transformers are commonly used to provide local 120/240 power from
480 feeders in industrial settings, and can be found used pretty
readily in most any size imaginable.

This however, sounds like a much better solution. Probably get a lot
more capacity, cheaper, than buying several of the units I was looking
at. I'll look up my buddy's electrician friend and see about scrounging
a used one and having him make -sure- I've got it set up properly before
I go.

Yep, those transformers I mentioned are very common and can be found in
any size you need used. Setup for 240V in and 120/240V out they will
give you the neutral you need for some items, or the output can be
configured for 120V only for more current. Don't waste a transformer on
anything that will take 240V only directly of course.

Rich Grise wrote:

Jon Anderson wrote:

Ok, one other item I really want to take down under is my Thermolyne
1400 oven. I've just spent 15 minutes on Google and cannot come up with
a direct contact to the manufacturer, only references to places that
sell them.

It's 110v, 12.5 amp, 1500 watts. Can this be rewired to 240?

Here, my options are a step down transformer, or trade it here for a 220
version. Mine is really clean, has temp gauge, temp control in the form
of a percent on dial, and an indicator light. I also have a relay and a
digital temp controller I've never gotten around to setting up for it.
Really would like to keep it as it's so clean, but willing to trade...

Don't haul equipment half-way around the world. Liquidate it here, and
take the cash with you and buy new or used in Oz. The money you'd save
on shipping should make up for any new-vs-used losses.

And for the kind of current demands you're looking for, a step-down
transformer would put a significant bite on your pocketbook.

Shipping a container of "personal effects" is *way* cheaper than trying
to repurchase what is industrial equipment in Oz.

On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 20:46:12 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Rich Grise wrote:

Jon Anderson wrote:

Ok, one other item I really want to take down under is my Thermolyne
1400 oven. I've just spent 15 minutes on Google and cannot come up with
a direct contact to the manufacturer, only references to places that
sell them.

It's 110v, 12.5 amp, 1500 watts. Can this be rewired to 240?

Here, my options are a step down transformer, or trade it here for a 220
version. Mine is really clean, has temp gauge, temp control in the form
of a percent on dial, and an indicator light. I also have a relay and a
digital temp controller I've never gotten around to setting up for it.
Really would like to keep it as it's so clean, but willing to trade...

Don't haul equipment half-way around the world. Liquidate it here, and
take the cash with you and buy new or used in Oz. The money you'd save
on shipping should make up for any new-vs-used losses.

And for the kind of current demands you're looking for, a step-down
transformer would put a significant bite on your pocketbook.

Shipping a container of "personal effects" is *way* cheaper than trying
to repurchase what is industrial equipment in Oz.

Just make sure to balance it so they don't drop it off the crane...

The packaging didn't make it on last thing I got from Oz (well, the
only thing), so I loaded a cubic meter of Jarrah wood onto my truck
and trailer one board at a time. When I got to the staging warehouse,
I found a pile of boards looking like a pickup-stix puzzle on the
floor. None of the metal banding and most of the plywood cover were
gone.

--
Fear not those who argue but those who dodge.
-- Marie Ebner von Eschenbach

It makes little sense to buy 60Hz transformers to take to
50Hz-land and smoke.

IF, and I say IF, this oven is a simple heater, no control
circuitry, then you could run it off 240 with the help of a
large enough lamp dimmer.

A dimmer works by giving you pieces of the AC waveform. The
heating element you're describing seems to have a fair amount
of thermal mass; so it's not going to the Great Junqueyard when
it's overvoltaged for a 1/120th of a second. You start out with
the dimmer way down, and slowly crank it up.

A major gotcha is how will you know when you have 115VRMS on the
oven? The usual cheapo voltmeter won't like the chopped waveform
and will lie to you.

There's another approach that might be better suited. Can
you put together an array of 240V incandescent lamps on a
backboard? Put the lamps in parallel and on the hot side of the
240V.

--240V-----LAMP BANK-----oven----neutral.
.........................\.VM./

Start out with oh 100 watts screwed in. What is the voltage on
the oven? Add more lamps slowly.

It's hard to say how many lamsp of what wattage you'll need
as the lamps will not be fully lit; and a lamp presents a
non-linear load curve. But you know they can now draw more than
their rating.

[THAT's why it's stoopid to use 130V lamps "so they don't burn
out"; yes they last longer, but in the cold side of the curve,
they emit far less light/watt.]

Further, I gather the oven does have a thermostat? When it opens,
the 240V is across it. Err...

I'm not really keen on either of these ideas because what would
an Aussie widow do with a Conex full of SAE machine tools?
At the least, I'd use a GFI breaker.
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/8/2011 7:24 PM, John G wrote:

My bet is the element will be cheaper than a transformer at least in Oz.
Dont forget if you buy transformer in US you will have to rewire with Oz
plug and US socket to match one on the oven and you have to look hard to
find US sockets in Oz.

I forgot to save the message, but think it was Ned that mentioned having
the model 1500 in 220, 4 elements at $100 each.

I see only one heating element:
http://cp-thermofisher.kb.net/utilit...spx?aid=261334
That'd be P/N EL44X1 (120 V) or EL48X2 (Please see page 27).

Your CN71X81 controller board is the same one used in 120 V and 220 V
applications.
The solid state relay is the same between the two.

'Sounds like you can replace the heating element and the power
switch (from SWX143 to SWX144) and run your new 230 V unit
without any external geegaws.

Customer Service can help with the straight info:
319-556-2241 or 800-553-0039

--Winston

On 8/16/2011 5:48 AM, Winston wrote:

'Sounds like you can replace the heating element and the power
switch (from SWX143 to SWX144) and run your new 230 V unit
without any external geegaws.

Customer Service can help with the straight info:
319-556-2241 or 800-553-0039


Thank you, been too busy last week or so to delve into this.
I'll give a call tomorrow and see what the damage would be to convert.


Jon

Jon Anderson wrote:
On 8/16/2011 5:48 AM, Winston wrote:

'Sounds like you can replace the heating element and the power
switch (from SWX143 to SWX144) and run your new 230 V unit
without any external geegaws.

Customer Service can help with the straight info:
319-556-2241 or 800-553-0039


Thank you, been too busy last week or so to delve into this.
I'll give a call tomorrow and see what the damage would be to convert.

Cool!

Customer Service can also provide a part numbers for all
the other affected components like the fuses and
appropriate localized line cord as well, I am sure.

Please keep us posted.

--Winston -- Fuse (10 amp .25 + 1.25 (BussTM Type ABC))