My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

I have had good luck with Duralst and Interstate batteries.
What you need to do is to measure the battery box and the clearance from
the battery to the hood, then buy the largest one that will fit. You can
always use extra amperage. Especially in locations that get cold!!

On Feb 13, 5:10*pm, Ignoramus9135
wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

Consumer Reports has done car battery tests forever, it seems, yes,
there's a difference. But no matter which one you get, they're all
boxes of chemicals that start deteriorating the minute they're put
together and they all die at about 5-7 years no matter what kind of
care they've had. Usually the two top brands are Interstate and Die
Hard. Me, I just find out what they've got at the parts joint within
walking distance...

Stan

CaveLamb wrote:
John R. Carroll wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

One of the first things I do when I pick up a used Vette as a project
is throw out the battery and replace it with a gel pack.
The other is to install a mechanical disconect. There is a local guy
that makes a "Half-Turn" gizmo that mounts on the terminal post.
That way all of the computers don't kill the battery if I don't start
the car for an extended period. That used to happen when I'd leave my
car at the airport for a
short trip that would turn into three or four weks on the road.
Nothing worse that a dead nattery at LAX after flying half the night
to get home.

There are two varieties that I'm familiar with.
One is a high capacity version for running electronics equipment ( big
car audio amps and such) and the other is great for starting.
Gel pack's last nearly forever, don't require maintanence and seem to
behave well in high temp environments.
That's the reason I switched. Desert temps kill batteries.

My oldest gel pack is going on 14 years and is working as well as it
did the day I installed it.



I replaced one of the deep cycle gel batteries on my boat just before
Christmas.

Both of them are 20 years old, but this one (due to a wiring mistake
at the bilge pump switch) got pulled down to 2.4 volts.

It never came back (obviously).


I replaced it with a marine deep cycle wet cell from Wally World for $65.
We'll see how that lasts...




somewhere I read that if you heat up the gel cell it will melt and
reform, renewing the battery. Of course 20 years is a long time for a
battery.

John

Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.


John

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:57:53 -0600, CaveLamb
wrote:

John R. Carroll wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

One of the first things I do when I pick up a used Vette as a project is
throw out the battery and replace it with a gel pack.
The other is to install a mechanical disconect. There is a local guy that
makes a "Half-Turn" gizmo that mounts on the terminal post.
That way all of the computers don't kill the battery if I don't start the
car for an extended period. That used to happen when I'd leave my car at the
airport for a
short trip that would turn into three or four weks on the road. Nothing
worse that a dead nattery at LAX after flying half the night to get home.

There are two varieties that I'm familiar with.
One is a high capacity version for running electronics equipment ( big car
audio amps and such) and the other is great for starting.
Gel pack's last nearly forever, don't require maintanence and seem to behave
well in high temp environments.
That's the reason I switched. Desert temps kill batteries.

My oldest gel pack is going on 14 years and is working as well as it did the
day I installed it.



I replaced one of the deep cycle gel batteries on my boat just before Christmas.

Both of them are 20 years old, but this one (due to a wiring mistake
at the bilge pump switch) got pulled down to 2.4 volts.

It never came back (obviously).


I replaced it with a marine deep cycle wet cell from Wally World for $65.
We'll see how that lasts...

Figure five years, not more.

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:10:46 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

They certainly are not all the same.

Interstate makes good batteries.

Surprisingly enough, I was amazed at how good Ford OEM batteries were
when we had Fords. I replaced them at age 8 just because I couldn't
believe they'd lasted that long in MN. The replacements were still
going strong when we replaced the cars at ages 14 and 15.

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:10:46 -0600, Ignoramus9135

My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

They certainly are not all the same.

Interstate makes good batteries.

Surprisingly enough, I was amazed at how good Ford OEM batteries were
when we had Fords. I replaced them at age 8 just because I couldn't
believe they'd lasted that long in MN. The replacements were still
going strong when we replaced the cars at ages 14 and 15.

I've also had this kind of "luck" with DieHard batteries. The only
batteries I've _ever_ had to replace have been used or off-brand,
and every DieHard I've ever bought has outlived the car that I put
it in and somehow parted company with.

I guess you could call this an endorsement of DieHards, but I'm not
getting any kickbacks or anything. :-)

Disclaimer: these were ordinary car batteries - truck batteries might
have different parameters or something.

Cheers!
Rich

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:10:46 -0600, Ignoramus9135

My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

They certainly are not all the same.

Interstate makes good batteries.

Surprisingly enough, I was amazed at how good Ford OEM batteries were
when we had Fords. I replaced them at age 8 just because I couldn't
believe they'd lasted that long in MN. The replacements were still
going strong when we replaced the cars at ages 14 and 15.

P.S.: I've also had good luck with Fords, contrary to "Fix Or Repair Daily"
or "For Orphans, Retards, & Dinks" or "Found On Road Dead" - these were
obviously coined by Chevy or Chrysler fans. ;-)

Keep them in oil, and they'll run forever. ("Fill up the oil and check the
gas, please." ;-) )

Admittedly, I had a slant 6 once, and they're essentially indestructible,
(had to retire the car when I rolled it) and I once had a Plymouth Gran
Fury 350 or so that finally threw the timing chain at about 250,000 miles
- I could probably have had it fixed for about a grand, but I didn't have
a thousand dollars at the time. )-;

And part of what kept the Gran Fury running was a DieHard. ;-D

Thanks!
Rich

Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

I thought my battery was failing, as the starter would turn a little slowly
when it was cold.

Then the starter went completely out. When I replaced the starter, the
problem went away.

The battery is still past it's warranty period, but it's an Interstate, and
still working fine with the new starter.

Jon

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

So, what is the word on gel cell batteries?

i

Ignoramus14196 wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

So, what is the word on gel cell batteries?

i

Gel cells have different charging requirements and will not directly
interchange into an auto environment properly. Look to AGM type
batteries for something compatible.

On 02/14/2011 07:30 AM, Ignoramus14196 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

I wouldn't trust an in-dash voltmeter to be that accurate.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

How old is it?

2-3 years old

There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.

I'm sure you already know to buy the most cold cranking amps for the
style, especially in cold country.

DO use treated felt washers under toppost terminals. Switch to
toppost if you now have a sidepost battery. I saw 3x more dead
sidepost batteries (back when I was wrenching) than topposts.

--
Remember, in an emergency, dial 1911.

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

How old is it?

2-3 years old

There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.

The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

How old is it?

2-3 years old

There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.

The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).

I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.

They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.

i

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

I wouldn't trust an in-dash voltmeter to be that accurate.

ditto. if you haven't got 14.2 to 14.4 at a decent rpm, your charging
system has a problem. That would kill battery life.

Karl

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

How old is it?

2-3 years old

There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.

The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).

I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.

You can usually get an extra two/three inches of depth in truck boxes.


They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.

Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

How old is it?

2-3 years old

There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.

The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).

I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.

You can usually get an extra two/three inches of depth in truck boxes.

They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.

Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.

He's a tech addict with a lot of auxiliary loads

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:10:46 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks
First of all, what kind of truck? What sized battery?
There are cheap junk batteries, expensive junk batteries, reasonably
priced good batteries, expensive good batteries, all the way up to
insanely expensive very good batteries.

The cheap and expensive junk batteries are the easiest to find.

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:30:00 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

I have had good luck with Duralst and Interstate batteries.
What you need to do is to measure the battery box and the clearance from
the battery to the hood, then buy the largest one that will fit. You can
always use extra amperage. Especially in locations that get cold!!
My experience with the Interstate MegaTron batteries has been
excellent.

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:58:26 -0800, Rich Grise
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:10:46 -0600, Ignoramus9135

My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

They certainly are not all the same.

Interstate makes good batteries.

Surprisingly enough, I was amazed at how good Ford OEM batteries were
when we had Fords. I replaced them at age 8 just because I couldn't
believe they'd lasted that long in MN. The replacements were still
going strong when we replaced the cars at ages 14 and 15.

P.S.: I've also had good luck with Fords, contrary to "Fix Or Repair Daily"
or "For Orphans, Retards, & Dinks" or "Found On Road Dead" - these were
obviously coined by Chevy or Chrysler fans. ;-)

Keep them in oil, and they'll run forever. ("Fill up the oil and check the
gas, please." ;-) )

Admittedly, I had a slant 6 once, and they're essentially indestructible,
(had to retire the car when I rolled it) and I once had a Plymouth Gran
Fury 350 or so that finally threw the timing chain at about 250,000 miles
- I could probably have had it fixed for about a grand, but I didn't have
a thousand dollars at the time. )-;

And part of what kept the Gran Fury running was a DieHard. ;-D

Thanks!
Rich
My kid brother replaced the timing chain on a 360 Grand Fury one
friday afternoon in less than an hour. He was working for me at the
time and a car at the gas station across the street wouldn't start
after filling up with gas (at about 4PM). We pushed it across the
street into the shop, determined the chain had jumped, and the owner
asked "how long to fix it, and how much."
We told him the book time and my brother said "I think we can have you
out of here by supper time".
By the time the parts were on the counter he had it apart. My
apprentice stood there with his jaw about half way between his belt
and his knees and asked "where's that guy keep his spare set of
hands?"

It was done and back out the door before quitting time!! The customer
gladly paid the flat rate time and was home on time for supper.

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 09:30:38 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

So, what is the word on gel cell batteries?

i
Red Optima. You won't go wrong, but your wallet will feet the pinch.

On Feb 14, 10:11*am, Karl Townsend
wrote:
It should be no more than 14.2 volts. * If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

I wouldn't trust an in-dash voltmeter to be that accurate.

ditto. if you haven't got 14.2 to 14.4 at a decent rpm, your charging
system has a problem. That would kill battery life.

I recently diagnosed the charging system on my car. The
manuals and such (I have a few) weren't much help
beyond what-wire-connects-where, but there were some
very odd indications.

You can charge a battery, give it a known discharge,
and see if it is holding enough energy. My battery was OK.

You can monitor the charge voltage to see if the normal
operation causes the correct charging voltages (in the
13 to 14.5 range). This, was inconsistent. Tightening
wires and replacing one cable seemed to fix it.

But almost nothing else; there was no easy way to
test the generator ex-situ, or any clear indications
what the voltage regulator was doing except as part
of the full assembly of components.

So, there was no clear determination of what to replace.
The generator came with a helpful little pamphlet that
said 'replace the voltage regulator at the same time',
and it's a common recommendation to replace the
battery after any charging problems. So, I'm thinking
a 'professional' would replace battery, regulator, generator
all at the same time. Whether they need it or not.
Without ever diagnosing to the individual faulty part.

That's just bad engineering.

My problem was an intermittent short inside the generator,
which clobbered the battery charge four times in
the space of a year (but usually worked when the
meter was attached).

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

How old is it?

2-3 years old

There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.

The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).

I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.

They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.

i
Blue top is the combination if I remember correctly. Yellow is deep
cycle.

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:12:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

How old is it?

2-3 years old

There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.

The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).

I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.

You can usually get an extra two/three inches of depth in truck boxes.

They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.

Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.

He's a tech addict with a lot of auxiliary loads

Fine. Add an aux battery, also non-deep-cycle. It'll be recharged
daily, too.

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 09:30:38 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

So, what is the word on gel cell batteries?

i

Gel cell batteries are just lead-acid batteries that have the
electrolyte gelled by adding silica-gel (I think). As they are sealed
batteries they should be charged at a lower voltage to avoid over
heating which could cause excessive gassing and high pressure inside
the sealed case.

Trojan Batteries recommends a maximum charging voltage of 2.35 - 2.40
per cell or 14.1 - 14.4 volts for a 12 volt battery..

While I cannot quote references, my experience is that few, if any,
common automobile alternators will produce a higher voltage then is
safe for a gel-cell.

As an aside - a gel cell's real advantage is that if you turn them
upside down they don't leak acid all over your new levis.

Ignoramus14196 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

So, what is the word on gel cell batteries?

i

I would not really trust the dash gauge too much when a couple tenths of
a volt is critical.

John

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 10:06:28 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Ignoramus14196 wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

So, what is the word on gel cell batteries?

i

Gel cells have different charging requirements and will not directly
interchange into an auto environment properly. Look to AGM type
batteries for something compatible.


Err ... Actually battery manufacturers recommendations a

Lead-Acid Maximum charging voltage 2.45 - 2.7 VDC/Cell or
14.7 - 16.2 VDC/12 volt Battery

Gel-Cell Max Recommended voltage 2.35 - 2.4 or 14.1 - 14.4

AGM Max Recommended 2.35 - 2.45 of 14.1 - 14.2

My own experience is that few, if any, automobile systems will put out
a voltage high enough to be of danger to any of the three batteries
and that gel-cells, at least, can be a direct substitution for
lead-acid with no problems, and I certainly know people that installed
AGM batteries in their boats and didn't report any difficulties.

It is useful to note that the only advantage that Gel-Cell or AGM have
over lead-acid is that they don't spill if you turn them over.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:12:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks
How old is it?
2-3 years old
There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.
The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).
I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.
You can usually get an extra two/three inches of depth in truck boxes.

They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.
Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.
He's a tech addict with a lot of auxiliary loads

Fine. Add an aux battery, also non-deep-cycle. It'll be recharged
daily, too.

Run a deep cycle in a car and you will kill it in short order. They are
not designed for the high current output required by the starter. It
warps the plates and shorts them out.
The combination units will handle your typical outboard engine. They
don't work well in vehicles with large engines though, for the same reason.
If you have a vehicle with constant draw requirements you're better off
installing dual batteries with an isolator.


--
Steve W.

whit3rd wrote:
On Feb 14, 10:11 am, Karl
wrote:
It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

I wouldn't trust an in-dash voltmeter to be that accurate.

ditto. if you haven't got 14.2 to 14.4 at a decent rpm, your charging
system has a problem. That would kill battery life.

I recently diagnosed the charging system on my car. The
manuals and such (I have a few) weren't much help
beyond what-wire-connects-where, but there were some
very odd indications.

You can charge a battery, give it a known discharge,
and see if it is holding enough energy. My battery was OK.

You can monitor the charge voltage to see if the normal
operation causes the correct charging voltages (in the
13 to 14.5 range). This, was inconsistent. Tightening
wires and replacing one cable seemed to fix it.

But almost nothing else; there was no easy way to
test the generator ex-situ, or any clear indications
what the voltage regulator was doing except as part
of the full assembly of components.

So, there was no clear determination of what to replace.
The generator came with a helpful little pamphlet that
said 'replace the voltage regulator at the same time',
and it's a common recommendation to replace the
battery after any charging problems. So, I'm thinking
a 'professional' would replace battery, regulator, generator
all at the same time. Whether they need it or not.
Without ever diagnosing to the individual faulty part.

That's just bad engineering.

My problem was an intermittent short inside the generator,
which clobbered the battery charge four times in
the space of a year (but usually worked when the
meter was attached).

Sounds like your regulator points are sticking or welding shut once in a
while draining the battery back through the generator. The contacts
on the regulator close when the output of the generator reaches about 12
volts, below that they should be open. You could put a heavy current
diode in series with the generator to prevent this back current flow.
New technology combined with old.


John

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:22:55 +0700, john B.
wrote:

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 10:06:28 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Ignoramus14196 wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
On 2011-02-14, wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks


How old is it?


John

2-3 years old


That's just beyond the warranty period, like all of wally-marts
batteries do.

First check the voltage coming out of the alternator at a higher than
idle engine rpm.

It should be no more than 14.2 volts. If it is than that is the reason
the battery is failing.

John, it is below that, I have a voltmeter on my dash.

So, what is the word on gel cell batteries?

i

Gel cells have different charging requirements and will not directly
interchange into an auto environment properly. Look to AGM type
batteries for something compatible.


Err ... Actually battery manufacturers recommendations a

Lead-Acid Maximum charging voltage 2.45 - 2.7 VDC/Cell or
14.7 - 16.2 VDC/12 volt Battery

Gel-Cell Max Recommended voltage 2.35 - 2.4 or 14.1 - 14.4

AGM Max Recommended 2.35 - 2.45 of 14.1 - 14.2

My own experience is that few, if any, automobile systems will put out
a voltage high enough to be of danger to any of the three batteries
and that gel-cells, at least, can be a direct substitution for
lead-acid with no problems, and I certainly know people that installed
AGM batteries in their boats and didn't report any difficulties.

It is useful to note that the only advantage that Gel-Cell or AGM have
over lead-acid is that they don't spill if you turn them over.
Not the ONLY advantage. They also do not gas under normal charge or
discharge.

In aircraft use a "wet" battery needs to be in an enclosed and vented
battery box, while AGM and Gel batteries can just be strapped down
anywhere.
Gel and AGM batteries are not considered hazardous cargo either (which
is mostly due to not being spillable) but there are valved spill-proof
wet batteries as well - which are NOT non -hazardous.

On 2011-02-14, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks

How old is it?

2-3 years old

There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.

The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).

I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.

You can usually get an extra two/three inches of depth in truck boxes.


They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.

Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.


I have a laptop and sometimes I forget to turn off the inverter for
it. If I had extra capacity, I would be better off with that.

i

On 2011-02-15, Steve W. wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:12:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks
How old is it?
2-3 years old
There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.
The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).
I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.
You can usually get an extra two/three inches of depth in truck boxes.

They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.
Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.
He's a tech addict with a lot of auxiliary loads

Fine. Add an aux battery, also non-deep-cycle. It'll be recharged
daily, too.

Run a deep cycle in a car and you will kill it in short order. They are
not designed for the high current output required by the starter. It
warps the plates and shorts them out.
The combination units will handle your typical outboard engine. They
don't work well in vehicles with large engines though, for the same reason.
If you have a vehicle with constant draw requirements you're better off
installing dual batteries with an isolator.



I thought that those optima batteries were designed for cars!

Ignoramus14196 wrote:

On 2011-02-15, Steve W. wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:12:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks
How old is it?
2-3 years old
There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.
The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).
I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.
You can usually get an extra two/three inches of depth in truck boxes.

They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.
Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.
He's a tech addict with a lot of auxiliary loads

Fine. Add an aux battery, also non-deep-cycle. It'll be recharged
daily, too.

Run a deep cycle in a car and you will kill it in short order. They are
not designed for the high current output required by the starter. It
warps the plates and shorts them out.
The combination units will handle your typical outboard engine. They
don't work well in vehicles with large engines though, for the same reason.
If you have a vehicle with constant draw requirements you're better off
installing dual batteries with an isolator.



I thought that those optima batteries were designed for cars!

There are at least three different versions of the Optima spiral cell
AGM batteries designed for different applications.

Ignoramus14196 wrote:
On 2011-02-15, Steve W. wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:12:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:03:50 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Pete C. wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:34:56 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, John wrote:
Ignoramus9135 wrote:
My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks
How old is it?
2-3 years old
There may not be much warranty left, but if the store allows it, see
if you can get a different brand or style covered under warranty.
I've heard (but have no experience with) that the newer Optima ripple
sided batteries are the sturdiest.
The Optimas would be one of the AGM type batteries I noted (in a spiral
configuration).
I called and spoke to them. They do not have the exact replacement
battery, but I talked to a woman who clearly knew what she was talking
about. She told me that I need at least 615 CCA rating and that I
need to measure my battery box dimensions and see if I can get an
Optima battery that fits and matches the CCA rating.
You can usually get an extra two/three inches of depth in truck boxes.

They have batteries that are rated for starting and deep cycle duty,
which is what I need. I will try to figure it out today, if possible.
Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.
He's a tech addict with a lot of auxiliary loads
Fine. Add an aux battery, also non-deep-cycle. It'll be recharged
daily, too.
Run a deep cycle in a car and you will kill it in short order. They are
not designed for the high current output required by the starter. It
warps the plates and shorts them out.
The combination units will handle your typical outboard engine. They
don't work well in vehicles with large engines though, for the same reason.
If you have a vehicle with constant draw requirements you're better off
installing dual batteries with an isolator.



I thought that those optima batteries were designed for cars!

They make more than one type of Optima battery.
They make a conventional starting battery like you need in a car.
They also make a combination battery that is a marine starting and
trolling battery. The problem is that they are NOT intended for use in a
car. They are intended to start a typical outboard engine. They can
tolerate being discharged more than a starting battery but not much more.
Then you have the deep cycle type. They are intended to run something
like a trolling motor, they will deliver current over a long time and
take being discharged well. BUT they won't work long in a vehicle since
the starter draws a LOT of current and that will warp the interior
plates of the battery and short it out.

In your case you would be MUCH better off with a couple items. One a
duel battery isolator and dual batteries. AND a battery saver unit which
will shut off the current when the battery hits a set voltage level.
That will protect the batteries.


--
Steve W.
(\___/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On 2011-02-14, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:10:46 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks
First of all, what kind of truck? What sized battery?
There are cheap junk batteries, expensive junk batteries, reasonably
priced good batteries, expensive good batteries, all the way up to
insanely expensive very good batteries.

The cheap and expensive junk batteries are the easiest to find.

Silverado 2500 3/4 ton. 2007 "classic".

i

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:26:55 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, Larry Jaques wrote:

Why do you desire a deep-cycle battery in an automotive environment,
Ig? They're recharged every time you start the engine.

I have a laptop and sometimes I forget to turn off the inverter for
it. If I had extra capacity, I would be better off with that.

Install an auxiliary battery and isolator (glorified relay.) It allows
both to charge, but only the aux to drain when the key is off.
Many trucks were built with the extra tray installed.

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 20:03:27 -0600, Ignoramus14196
wrote:

On 2011-02-14, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:10:46 -0600, Ignoramus9135
wrote:

My truck battery is dying, and I was wondering if there is such as
thing as a "better battery", or are they all created the same. Thnks
First of all, what kind of truck? What sized battery?
There are cheap junk batteries, expensive junk batteries, reasonably
priced good batteries, expensive good batteries, all the way up to
insanely expensive very good batteries.

The cheap and expensive junk batteries are the easiest to find.

Silverado 2500 3/4 ton. 2007 "classic".

R&R Battery.
Replace truck.

/Ford man

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim