[SteveB]

I posted this to alt.photography, but someone here might be able to help me,
too.

I need a nut for a shutter release. The shutter release has a tapered cone
shaped threaded end. I think I can find a nut that fits "close enough" to
hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or SuperGlue Gel on
there. Where would I even look for a tapered nut?

It makes me curious, though, as to how they would tap a tapered hole, as you
go in, it would become harder until you reach the snap point.

Steve ....... may the sporge be with you..........

[Tim Wescott]

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 00:12:17 -0600, SteveB wrote:

I posted this to alt.photography, but someone here might be able to help me,
too.

I need a nut for a shutter release. The shutter release has a tapered cone
shaped threaded end. I think I can find a nut that fits "close enough" to
hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or SuperGlue Gel on
there. Where would I even look for a tapered nut?

It makes me curious, though, as to how they would tap a tapered hole, as you
go in, it would become harder until you reach the snap point.

Steve ....... may the sporge be with you..........

That seems to be a standard thread, at least in the photography world.
I'd do some web searches (or reword my question) to find the correct
dimensions.

If I recall correctly the female thread isn't tapered as sharply as the
male, but it's been a long time since I looked. Certainly with pipe
threads the hole is straight and the pipe is tapered. Pipe dies are made
to cut the correct taper, or you can cut the threads on a lathe by turning
between centers with the work set over, or by using a taper attachment on
the lathe. The taper on a shutter release is pretty sharp, so I would
assume it'd have to be done with the right die, possible on a tapered
blank, or it would have to be done with a taper attachment.

--
Tim Wescott
Control systems and communications consulting
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Need to learn how to apply control theory in your embedded system?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" by Tim Wescott
Elsevier/Newnes, http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

[Don Foreman]

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 01:57:37 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:
Certainly with pipe
threads the hole is straight and the pipe is tapered.

My NPT taps are tapered.

[Harold and Susan Vordos]

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 00:12:17 -0600, SteveB wrote:
snip----

Certainly with pipe
threads the hole is straight and the pipe is tapered.

Sorry, but that's not true unless you're dealing with straight pipe threads.
The typical (tapered) pipe thread (NTP) is tapered, both male and female.
The hole may start out dead straight, but as the thread is generated by the
tap, the entire thread profile ends up tapered with what is virtually a 100%
thread. The tap is, indeed, tapered 3/4"/foot.

Harold

[John Martin]

On Aug 14, 2:57 am, Tim Wescott wrote:
Certainly with pipe
threads the hole is straight and the pipe is tapered. --
Tim Wescott

Usually, but that is the quick and dirty method. The proper way is to
first taper the hole, and there are taper reamers made for just that
purpose. Most don't bother, and the taper gets cut by the tap itself.

John Martin

[Bob's my cat]

On Aug 13, 11:12 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
I posted this to alt.photography, but someone here might be able to help me,
too.

I need a nut for a shutter release. The shutter release has a tapered cone
shaped threaded end. I think I can find a nut that fits "close enough" to
hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or SuperGlue Gel on
there. Where would I even look for a tapered nut?

Not so very long ago, OK, about 20 years, I got an adapter to use an
ISO cable release on a Nikon, which essentially _was _a tapered nut,
albeit double ended, one end fit the ISO release, the other Nikon's
special thread, who knows, a camera store might sill have some lying
around. This would probably still need some "metalworking", to fit
your application, but might be a possibility


It makes me curious, though, as to how they would tap a tapered hole, as you
go in, it would become harder until you reach the snap point.

Steve ....... may the sporge be with you..........

I'll bet this won't actually tell one how to make the threads, (and
I'm not curious enough to spend $30 to find out) but it one really,
really wanted to know the standards for the threads, one can order
them he http://www.webstore.ansi.org/RecordD...SO+6053%3a1979
in case something messes up the link, the site is http://www.webstore.ansi.org
the document is; ISO 6053:1979
Photography -- Shutter cable release tip and socket -- Dimensions

I couldn't find anywhere that had the dimensions for free, I suppose I
could go down to the basement and check the Machineries Handbook, but
that is really a long shot, and the stairway is outside, and a have a
Cat sitting on my lap, and I don't think you are going to make you own
tap anyway, and your nut with the Locktite will probably work fine, is
that enough excuses?

Considering that many camera parts are (or were) brass, I suspect
holes are reamed tapered (or drilled with a tapered bit) before
tapping, so one is not removing much metal with the tap (the threads
are pretty fine) , then one would tap until one got to the "stop"
point, which would be reached before the "snap" point

Jay

[SteveB]

"Bob's my cat" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Aug 13, 11:12 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
I posted this to alt.photography, but someone here might be able to help
me,
too.

I need a nut for a shutter release. The shutter release has a tapered
cone
shaped threaded end. I think I can find a nut that fits "close enough"
to
hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or SuperGlue Gel
on
there. Where would I even look for a tapered nut?

Not so very long ago, OK, about 20 years, I got an adapter to use an
ISO cable release on a Nikon, which essentially _was _a tapered nut,
albeit double ended, one end fit the ISO release, the other Nikon's
special thread, who knows, a camera store might sill have some lying
around. This would probably still need some "metalworking", to fit
your application, but might be a possibility


It makes me curious, though, as to how they would tap a tapered hole, as
you
go in, it would become harder until you reach the snap point.

Steve ....... may the sporge be with you..........

I'll bet this won't actually tell one how to make the threads, (and
I'm not curious enough to spend $30 to find out) but it one really,
really wanted to know the standards for the threads, one can order
them he
http://www.webstore.ansi.org/RecordD...SO+6053%3a1979
in case something messes up the link, the site is
http://www.webstore.ansi.org
the document is; ISO 6053:1979
Photography -- Shutter cable release tip and socket -- Dimensions

I couldn't find anywhere that had the dimensions for free, I suppose I
could go down to the basement and check the Machineries Handbook, but
that is really a long shot, and the stairway is outside, and a have a
Cat sitting on my lap, and I don't think you are going to make you own
tap anyway, and your nut with the Locktite will probably work fine, is
that enough excuses?

Considering that many camera parts are (or were) brass, I suspect
holes are reamed tapered (or drilled with a tapered bit) before
tapping, so one is not removing much metal with the tap (the threads
are pretty fine) , then one would tap until one got to the "stop"
point, which would be reached before the "snap" point

Jay


They even have one that is thirty feet long that is a squeeze air bulb. I
think I'll be getting one over the Internet, but am looking at camera stores
now, as I shop the Nikon D40x currently on promotion from Nikon.

I photograph hummingbirds, and the rufous is particularly shy, so a longer
shutter release will get me farther away from the subject.

Steve

[F. George McDuffee]

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 00:12:17 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

It makes me curious, though, as to how they would tap a tapered hole, as you
go in, it would become harder until you reach the snap point.
========
Duh moment -- they use a taper tap and only go in so deep.

In the larger sizes they have taper reamers to taper the hole
before threading.

This is common with NPT [t as in taper] series of threads in the
US, and I gather common to the water/gas pipe threads used in
other areas also.

The rationale is that the threads crush at the root and crest as
they are tightened and thus eliminate the helical leak path on
straight threads. (It also helps to put a big glob of white
lead, or now teflon tape on the threads to insure a gas/water
tight joint.)


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

[Don Foreman]

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 00:12:17 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I posted this to alt.photography, but someone here might be able to help me,
too.

I need a nut for a shutter release. The shutter release has a tapered cone
shaped threaded end. I think I can find a nut that fits "close enough" to
hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or SuperGlue Gel on
there. Where would I even look for a tapered nut?

I read somewhere that the thread is M3 x .50 on ISO cable releases,
Nikon may be different.

The only value I can see for having a taper there is quick
connect/disconnect, like bayonet on lenses. Since you mention
superglue, I'd think that a straight M3 x .50 nut jammed on would work
OK for a coupling not intended for disassembly.

[Don Foreman]

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 10:04:00 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:




They even have one that is thirty feet long that is a squeeze air bulb. I
think I'll be getting one over the Internet, but am looking at camera stores
now, as I shop the Nikon D40x currently on promotion from Nikon.

I photograph hummingbirds, and the rufous is particularly shy, so a longer
shutter release will get me farther away from the subject.

Steve

How about a little solenoid? You could then use wire of arbitrary
length as your "cable". You might find suitable small solenoids at
the junkyard in auto trunk releases, door locks, etc. Wouldn't be at
all hard to make one if you have a lathe.

A few years ago I made a guy a radio shutter release for photographing
birds and animals from a distance, but he had a digital camera so the
interface was all electrical.

[Leo Lichtman]

"SteveB" wrote: (clip) I think I can find a nut that fits "close enough"
to hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or SuperGlue Gel
on there. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Another "chewing gum and duct tape" solution might be to use some thread
repair resin to form the proper threads inside a loose-fitting nut.
Loc-tite and Permatex brands come to mind.

[SteveB]

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote: (clip) I think I can find a nut that fits "close enough"
to hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or SuperGlue
Gel on there. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Another "chewing gum and duct tape" solution might be to use some thread
repair resin to form the proper threads inside a loose-fitting nut.
Loc-tite and Permatex brands come to mind.


In welding, it's called a "gorilla weld." If it holds, it's a good weld.
Looks ain't important for some applications.

Steve

[Don Young]

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
I posted this to alt.photography, but someone here might be able to help
me, too.

I need a nut for a shutter release. The shutter release has a tapered
cone shaped threaded end. I think I can find a nut that fits "close
enough" to hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or
SuperGlue Gel on there. Where would I even look for a tapered nut?

It makes me curious, though, as to how they would tap a tapered hole, as
you go in, it would become harder until you reach the snap point.

Steve ....... may the sporge be with you..........

That is a common way to make a universal release which will sorta fit
various differing cameras. Most of the dedicated ones I have seen had
straight threads and I have never seen a camera with a tapered socket,
though they may exist.

Don Young

[Tim Wescott]

Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:
"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 00:12:17 -0600, SteveB wrote:
snip----

Certainly with pipe
threads the hole is straight and the pipe is tapered.

Sorry, but that's not true unless you're dealing with straight pipe threads.
The typical (tapered) pipe thread (NTP) is tapered, both male and female.
The hole may start out dead straight, but as the thread is generated by the
tap, the entire thread profile ends up tapered with what is virtually a 100%
thread. The tap is, indeed, tapered 3/4"/foot.

Whoops.

It's a good thing that metalwork is what I spend money on, instead of
what I get paid to do...

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" gives you just what it says.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

[DoN. Nichols]

According to Don Foreman :
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 10:04:00 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:




They even have one that is thirty feet long that is a squeeze air bulb. I
think I'll be getting one over the Internet, but am looking at camera stores
now, as I shop the Nikon D40x currently on promotion from Nikon.

I photograph hummingbirds, and the rufous is particularly shy, so a longer
shutter release will get me farther away from the subject.

Steve

How about a little solenoid? You could then use wire of arbitrary
length as your "cable".

For that matter -- I believe that the D40x has a connector for a
remote control. You might have to cut and extend the cable. I think
that it is three conductor -- a common, a contact for the "half press"
to cause the camera to autofocus (if you are letting it do that), and a
final contact for the "full press" which actually takes the photo. The
"half-press" is probably needed to wake the camera up anyway, even if
you have autofocus disabled.

And -- the D40x (if it is anything like my D70) does *not* have
a standard cable release socket -- all remote work is either optical (IR
remote transmitter) or electrical (cable and switch which plug into the
camera body).

But I may have lost track, and the OP did not state that he was
using a D40x -- but in that case, whoever is should beware of this
limitation.

Good luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[Don Foreman]

On 15 Aug 2007 04:57:39 GMT, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

According to Don Foreman :
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 10:04:00 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:




They even have one that is thirty feet long that is a squeeze air bulb. I
think I'll be getting one over the Internet, but am looking at camera stores
now, as I shop the Nikon D40x currently on promotion from Nikon.

I photograph hummingbirds, and the rufous is particularly shy, so a longer
shutter release will get me farther away from the subject.

Steve

How about a little solenoid? You could then use wire of arbitrary
length as your "cable".

For that matter -- I believe that the D40x has a connector for a
remote control. You might have to cut and extend the cable. I think
that it is three conductor -- a common, a contact for the "half press"
to cause the camera to autofocus (if you are letting it do that), and a
final contact for the "full press" which actually takes the photo. The
"half-press" is probably needed to wake the camera up anyway, even if
you have autofocus disabled.

That's the setup the camera had that I made the radio for. The remote
had two resistors. It would present one resistance for "half press"
and a different resistance for "full press". I just made a radio to
emulate that, even found a pushbutton with "half press" and "full
press" contacts for the xmtr. Don't recall what kind of camera it
was, but it wasn't a Nikon.

And -- the D40x (if it is anything like my D70) does *not* have
a standard cable release socket -- all remote work is either optical (IR
remote transmitter) or electrical (cable and switch which plug into the
camera body).

But I may have lost track, and the OP did not state that he was
using a D40x -- but in that case, whoever is should beware of this
limitation.

Good luck,
DoN.

[Don Foreman]

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 21:23:03 -0500, "Don Young"
wrote:


"SteveB" wrote in message
...
I posted this to alt.photography, but someone here might be able to help
me, too.

I need a nut for a shutter release. The shutter release has a tapered
cone shaped threaded end. I think I can find a nut that fits "close
enough" to hold what has to hold, and I can put a drop of Loctite or
SuperGlue Gel on there. Where would I even look for a tapered nut?

It makes me curious, though, as to how they would tap a tapered hole, as
you go in, it would become harder until you reach the snap point.

Steve ....... may the sporge be with you..........

That is a common way to make a universal release which will sorta fit
various differing cameras. Most of the dedicated ones I have seen had
straight threads and I have never seen a camera with a tapered socket,
though they may exist.

Don Young

I think that was an ISO standard at one time, may still be. I have
several (old) 35mm SLR film cameras (Canon, 2xPentax, Praktica) that
use a cable release with tapered threads.

[Nick Hull]

In article ,
Don Foreman wrote:

How about a little solenoid? You could then use wire of arbitrary
length as your "cable". You might find suitable small solenoids at
the junkyard in auto trunk releases, door locks, etc. Wouldn't be at
all hard to make one if you have a lathe.

The problem with a lot of solenoids is that they shake the camera
at the wrong time
Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

[Don Foreman]

On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 05:06:43 -0500, Nick Hull wrote:

In article ,
Don Foreman wrote:

How about a little solenoid? You could then use wire of arbitrary
length as your "cable". You might find suitable small solenoids at
the junkyard in auto trunk releases, door locks, etc. Wouldn't be at
all hard to make one if you have a lathe.

The problem with a lot of solenoids is that they shake the camera
at the wrong time
Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/

Yeah. Put solenoid on short cable release, so the reaction (jerk) of
the solenoid's plunger accel/decel is isolated from the camera.

It is certainly possible to slow down a solenoid so it doesn't jerk,
but that might feel unresponsive to some users.

[DoN. Nichols]

According to Nick Hull :
In article ,
Don Foreman wrote:

How about a little solenoid? You could then use wire of arbitrary
length as your "cable". You might find suitable small solenoids at
the junkyard in auto trunk releases, door locks, etc. Wouldn't be at
all hard to make one if you have a lathe.

The problem with a lot of solenoids is that they shake the camera
at the wrong time

But not all. I have one which operates a cable release, so it
gets some isolation from the camera. (You may want a second tripod for
it to keep the isolation going. :-)

There are also tiny solenoids which screw directly into the
cable release socket. (They were used with the bulb flash unit on 4x5
cameras like the Speed Graphic -- to trigger the shutter under control
of a switch in the typical Kalart flash gun -- with with the gun hand
held and separate from the camera body -- just to minimize shake.)

But again -- if this is a camera like the D40x -- go for a
separate plug-in electrical remote, since the camera does not have a
cable release socket, and the shutter release button takes a lot more
force than most cable releases are happy to provide.

Unfortunately, my D70 was made just before the remote socket
became standard, and just has provisions for an IR remote.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[DoN. Nichols]

According to Don Foreman :
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 21:23:03 -0500, "Don Young"
wrote:


"SteveB" wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

That is a common way to make a universal release which will sorta fit
various differing cameras. Most of the dedicated ones I have seen had
straight threads and I have never seen a camera with a tapered socket,
though they may exist.

[ ... ]

I think that was an ISO standard at one time, may still be. I have
several (old) 35mm SLR film cameras (Canon, 2xPentax, Praktica) that
use a cable release with tapered threads.

The Nikon F also used the same threads -- but via an adaptor.
The shutter release was inside a cylindrical protector which rotated
about 90 degrees to lock or unlock the button, and there was a male
thread on a collar around the button but inside the protector. You
thread the adaptor onto that, and it positions a cable release above the
shutter release button. But the button requires more force than the
internal cable release socket normally needed, so long (e.g. 10 foot or
greater) cable releases were a problem with all of that cable friction.

Note that the same adaptor also worked on some versions of the
Miranda SLRs -- before they started adding a cable shutter release
socket in the body under a threaded cover. You had to unscrew the
protective ring from around the shutter release button to expose the
threads for the adaptor.

The adaptor looks somewhat like a half-size thimble, if you are
looking for one.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[[email protected]]

On 15 Aug 2007 20:00:31 GMT, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

According to Don Foreman :
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 21:23:03 -0500, "Don Young"
wrote:


"SteveB" wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

That is a common way to make a universal release which will sorta fit
various differing cameras. Most of the dedicated ones I have seen had
straight threads and I have never seen a camera with a tapered socket,
though they may exist.

[ ... ]

I think that was an ISO standard at one time, may still be. I have
several (old) 35mm SLR film cameras (Canon, 2xPentax, Praktica) that
use a cable release with tapered threads.

The Nikon F also used the same threads -- but via an adaptor.
The shutter release was inside a cylindrical protector which rotated
about 90 degrees to lock or unlock the button, and there was a male
thread on a collar around the button but inside the protector. You
thread the adaptor onto that, and it positions a cable release above the
shutter release button. But the button requires more force than the
internal cable release socket normally needed, so long (e.g. 10 foot or
greater) cable releases were a problem with all of that cable friction.

Note that the same adaptor also worked on some versions of the
Miranda SLRs -- before they started adding a cable shutter release
socket in the body under a threaded cover. You had to unscrew the
protective ring from around the shutter release button to expose the
threads for the adaptor.

The adaptor looks somewhat like a half-size thimble, if you are
looking for one.

Enjoy,
DoN.

I just went and looked at two Nikon view camera lenses and they both
have tapered threads in the shutter release. In addition,in my drawer
of "camera bits" I found two shutter release cables with tapered
threads. Certainly at one time they were as common as dirt as I
certainly don't remember having any problem in locating them.

If that is what you are looking at try locating a camera shop that
deals in professional cameras and give them a call.




Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

[woodworker88]

On Aug 14, 9:04 am, "SteveB" wrote:

They even have one that is thirty feet long that is a squeeze air bulb. I
think I'll be getting one over the Internet, but am looking at camera stores
now, as I shop the Nikon D40x currently on promotion from Nikon.

I photograph hummingbirds, and the rufous is particularly shy, so a longer
shutter release will get me farther away from the subject.

Steve

In my experience, the bulb does not produce enough pressure to trip
the release through 30+ feet of cable without squeezing it in a vise.
I cut the hose down to a manageable 6 feet and it works fine. I
suppose you could also hook it up to a shop or canned compressed air
source.