Hello all,

I want to replace the shutoff valve to my home.

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


How would I take the old valve out and then put the new valve (a ball valve) in?

I see on youtube videos describing cutting the pipe out, soldering extensions, etc. I hope these are not necessary.

Thanks!

Deguza

On 7/1/19 5:38 PM, Deguza wrote:
Hello all,

I want to replace the shutoff valve to my home.

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


How would I take the old valve out and then put the new valve (a ball valve) in?

I see on youtube videos describing cutting the pipe out, soldering extensions, etc. I hope these are not necessary.

Thanks!

Deguza


Where does the pipe going down from the valve go ? Is there another
fitting you can see, or does pipe disappear into floor or wall ?

Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 18:00:50 -0400, wrote:


Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.


+1

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:00:59 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On 7/1/19 5:38 PM, Deguza wrote:
Hello all,

I want to replace the shutoff valve to my home.

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


How would I take the old valve out and then put the new valve (a ball valve) in?

I see on youtube videos describing cutting the pipe out, soldering extensions, etc. I hope these are not necessary.

Thanks!

Deguza


Where does the pipe going down from the valve go ? Is there another
fitting you can see, or does pipe disappear into floor or wall ?

Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.

The pipe goes into the ground...

I put one more view at: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arqoa1B33oXrgTXC...b-ynp?e=ygIeT8

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

On 7/1/19 5:38 PM, Deguza wrote:
Hello all,

I want to replace the shutoff valve to my home.

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


How would I take the old valve out and then put the new valve (a ball valve) in?

I see on youtube videos describing cutting the pipe out, soldering extensions, etc. I hope these are not necessary.

Thanks!

Deguza

Judging from the condition of those pipes plus the nature of the
question you asked, I'm thinking that ain't no DIY project. I'm thinkin'
1-800-PLUMBER ;-)

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 15:44:27 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I understand that. If you start cutting pipes, wrenches, etc.. You
may have future leaks in the future. A stem kit would an easy fix for
the valve IMO.

How much does a pipe fitter cost...?

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:49:00 PM UTC-7, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 7/1/19 5:38 PM, Deguza wrote:
Hello all,

I want to replace the shutoff valve to my home.

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


How would I take the old valve out and then put the new valve (a ball valve) in?

I see on youtube videos describing cutting the pipe out, soldering extensions, etc. I hope these are not necessary.

Thanks!

Deguza

Judging from the condition of those pipes plus the nature of the
question you asked, I'm thinking that ain't no DIY project. I'm thinkin'
1-800-PLUMBER ;-)

After your advice I contacted a friend who does this type of stuff, he will do it.

Thanks!

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:59:05 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 15:44:27 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I understand that. If you start cutting pipes, wrenches, etc.. You
may have future leaks in the future. A stem kit would an easy fix for
the valve IMO.

How much does a pipe fitter cost...?

If it involves cutting pipes, I'll do what you are suggesting. If somehow I could take the existing valve out easily, I would replace it with a ball valve.

However, as I wrote earlier to Wade, I am going to get my friend involved. If he thinks it is beyond his experience, I'll call a plumber...

Thanks for your advice!

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 18:00:50 -0400, wrote:


Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.


+1

That horizontal line has been opened in the not _too_ distant past--the
nipple still has a Home Depot price tag on it with tape not dope. Looks
like may have used black iron instead of galvanized for it, though.

My guess would be there's union there; the q? is what's on the other
side of that tee before can break that run???

On Mon, 01 Jul 2019 15:19:05 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

That is a gate valve but he still may be able to rebuild it. If not
then you are unscrewing pipe until you get to the next union. I would
seriously think about cutting it out and replacing as much as you can
with PVC. It is a lot easier to work with and it will never rust like
that did.
One hard and fast rule, always put PVC into metal, never the other
way.
Do Not put a female PVC fitting on a metal pipe. It will crack. Always
use a metal coupler and screw in a PVC male adapter with teflon dope.

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

Hello all,

I want to replace the shutoff valve to my home.

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


How would I take the old valve out and then put the new valve (a ball valve) in?

I see on youtube videos describing cutting the pipe out, soldering extensions, etc. I hope these are not necessary.

Thanks!

Deguza
You are "screwed" Somewhere you are going to need to cut our a pipe
nipple and replace it with a union coupler. You will likely have to
remove a LOT of pipe to do it properly

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 15:43:34 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:00:59 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On 7/1/19 5:38 PM, Deguza wrote:
Hello all,

I want to replace the shutoff valve to my home.

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


How would I take the old valve out and then put the new valve (a ball valve) in?

I see on youtube videos describing cutting the pipe out, soldering extensions, etc. I hope these are not necessary.

Thanks!

Deguza


Where does the pipe going down from the valve go ? Is there another
fitting you can see, or does pipe disappear into floor or wall ?

Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.

The pipe goes into the ground...

I put one more view at: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arqoa1B33oXrgTXC...b-ynp?e=ygIeT8


So water comes up, through the valve to the "T" where it goes in
through the wall and out to???

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 15:44:27 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...
Heard the expression "beggars can't be choosers?

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 5:08:24 PM UTC-7, dpb wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 18:00:50 -0400, wrote:


Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.


+1

That horizontal line has been opened in the not _too_ distant past--the
nipple still has a Home Depot price tag on it with tape not dope. Looks
like may have used black iron instead of galvanized for it, though.

My guess would be there's union there; the q? is what's on the other
side of that tee before can break that run???

The horizontal line goes to the sprinkler system, I'm estimating that it was put about 15 to 20 years ago. When I bought the house 11 years ago it was there.

If you mean by the other side of the tee, the side towards the wall, that's where the pipe enters the crawlspace. The water then gets distributed to the bathroom, kitchen and the garage.

Deguza

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 5:22:39 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Mon, 01 Jul 2019 15:19:05 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

That is a gate valve but he still may be able to rebuild it. If not
then you are unscrewing pipe until you get to the next union. I would
seriously think about cutting it out and replacing as much as you can
with PVC. It is a lot easier to work with and it will never rust like
that did.
One hard and fast rule, always put PVC into metal, never the other
way.
Do Not put a female PVC fitting on a metal pipe. It will crack. Always
use a metal coupler and screw in a PVC male adapter with teflon dope.

Interesting idea. I'll pass it on to my friend was going to help me. But see what he says about the PVC.

Deguza

On 7/1/2019 6:44 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I can understand that, but looking at the existing pipe you may be in
for a bit of work. Some joints will be opened or disturbed doing the
job and they may be in need of replacing too. Be prepared to do some
other work along with the valve.

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 7:48:20 PM UTC-7, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 15:43:34 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:00:59 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On 7/1/19 5:38 PM, Deguza wrote:
Hello all,

I want to replace the shutoff valve to my home.

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


How would I take the old valve out and then put the new valve (a ball valve) in?

I see on youtube videos describing cutting the pipe out, soldering extensions, etc. I hope these are not necessary.

Thanks!

Deguza


Where does the pipe going down from the valve go ? Is there another
fitting you can see, or does pipe disappear into floor or wall ?

Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.

The pipe goes into the ground...

I put one more view at: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arqoa1B33oXrgTXC...b-ynp?e=ygIeT8


So water comes up, through the valve to the "T" where it goes in
through the wall and out to???

The pipe enters the crawlspace. The water then gets distributed to the bathroom, kitchen and the garage.

The other side of the T feeds the sprinkler system.

Deguza

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 9:51:09 PM UTC-7, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/1/2019 6:44 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I can understand that, but looking at the existing pipe you may be in
for a bit of work. Some joints will be opened or disturbed doing the
job and they may be in need of replacing too. Be prepared to do some
other work along with the valve.

I think you are right Ed. You folks made the project a lot clearer for me.

What I was hoping was that somehow I can take the existing valve out by turning it around after taking the handle and the rest of the sticking parts out.

After all, somebody was able to put together the whole contraption without soldering anything.

I was thinking I could reverse the process of putting it together.

Deguza

On 2/7/19 3:00 pm, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 9:51:09 PM UTC-7, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/1/2019 6:44 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I can understand that, but looking at the existing pipe you may be in
for a bit of work. Some joints will be opened or disturbed doing the
job and they may be in need of replacing too. Be prepared to do some
other work along with the valve.

I think you are right Ed. You folks made the project a lot clearer for me.

What I was hoping was that somehow I can take the existing valve out by turning it around after taking the handle and the rest of the sticking parts out.

After all, somebody was able to put together the whole contraption without soldering anything.

I was thinking I could reverse the process of putting it together.

Deguza

You must realise that the pipe coming out of the ground was the start
point in the assembly process. You don't know where the finish point was
*inside* the house. That point, the first coupling, will be your start
point in reversing the process. You have to find the point where
unscrewing one pipe doesn't screw another pipe in tighter at the other
end. Then you can work back to your tap from there. You will find that
the task will be like Topsy, it'll grow and grow. Far better to fix the
issue with the tap and leave the rest of the plumbing be.

--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

On 7/1/2019 11:48 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 5:08:24 PM UTC-7, dpb wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 18:00:50 -0400, wrote:


Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.


+1

That horizontal line has been opened in the not _too_ distant past--the
nipple still has a Home Depot price tag on it with tape not dope. Looks
like may have used black iron instead of galvanized for it, though.

My guess would be there's union there; the q? is what's on the other
side of that tee before can break that run???

The horizontal line goes to the sprinkler system, I'm estimating that it was put about 15 to 20 years ago. When I bought the house 11 years ago it was there.

If you mean by the other side of the tee, the side towards the wall, that's where the pipe enters the crawlspace. The water then gets distributed to the bathroom, kitchen and the garage.

The Q? isn't so much where it goes or what it services but where is
there a union or the end of a run that can disassemble? As Clare(?) or
was it Ed? said in similar vein, you can't just unscrew one piece of
pipe out of the middle...

--

On 7/1/2019 11:48 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 5:08:24 PM UTC-7, dpb wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 18:00:50 -0400, wrote:


Unless there is a fitting called a "union" somewhere close, you are into
major wrench work.


+1

That horizontal line has been opened in the not _too_ distant past--the
nipple still has a Home Depot price tag on it with tape not dope. Looks
like may have used black iron instead of galvanized for it, though.

My guess would be there's union there; the q? is what's on the other
side of that tee before can break that run???

The horizontal line goes to the sprinkler system, I'm estimating that it was put about 15 to 20 years ago. When I bought the house 11 years ago it was there.

If you mean by the other side of the tee, the side towards the wall, that's where the pipe enters the crawlspace. The water then gets distributed to the bathroom, kitchen and the garage.

The Q? isn't so much where it goes or what it services but where is
there a union or the end of a run that can disassemble? As Clare(?) or
was it Ed? said in similar vein, you can't just unscrew one piece of
pipe out of the middle...

But, going to the left, clearly there has to be a union, probably fairly
close as that one nipple has been replaced. But, to get to the valve
you've got to be able to separate the other side of that tee as
well...or cut the line and piece in a new union to put it back together
and perhaps rethread the cut end...who knows??? we can't see thru the
wall to know (nor even the other direction to actually tell but just
that the one nipple is new(er) is enough of a klew to tell that side
came apart before.

--

On Tuesday, July 2, 2019 at 4:13:28 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 2/7/19 3:00 pm, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 9:51:09 PM UTC-7, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/1/2019 6:44 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I can understand that, but looking at the existing pipe you may be in
for a bit of work. Some joints will be opened or disturbed doing the
job and they may be in need of replacing too. Be prepared to do some
other work along with the valve.

I think you are right Ed. You folks made the project a lot clearer for me.

What I was hoping was that somehow I can take the existing valve out by turning it around after taking the handle and the rest of the sticking parts out.

After all, somebody was able to put together the whole contraption without soldering anything.

I was thinking I could reverse the process of putting it together.

Deguza

You must realise that the pipe coming out of the ground was the start
point in the assembly process. You don't know where the finish point was
*inside* the house. That point, the first coupling, will be your start
point in reversing the process.

The starting point is either a union or where it *ended*.
I could start at the meter, screw on pipe, screw on the valve, screw on
pipe, fitting, pipe, fittings, pipe, ending at 5 different places.
Without a coupling or cutting it and putting one in, you'd have to reverse
that process. His other problem will be that he doesn't have the pipe
cutter or threading tools he needs.



You have to find the point where
unscrewing one pipe doesn't screw another pipe in tighter at the other
end. Then you can work back to your tap from there.

+1


You will find that
the task will be like Topsy, it'll grow and grow. Far better to fix the
issue with the tap and leave the rest of the plumbing be.

--

Xeno


Cutting the pipe, putting in a union is the other option, which sounds far
easier so far. Another problem is with old galvanized, it's not unusual
to find that it's near failure, with the inside full of rust, narrowing
the passageway.

What's wrong with the existing valve? New washer, stem packing won't work?

No threading required if you use a Dresser fitting.

https://www.trupply.com/collections/...12597084192846

On 7/2/2019 10:55 AM, Bob W. wrote:

No threading required if you use a Dresser fitting.

https://www.trupply.com/collections/...12597084192846





I bet they would work well if the pipe was fairly new. I'd not trust
them on what I saw in the photo though.

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:50:46 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 5:22:39 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Mon, 01 Jul 2019 15:19:05 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

That is a gate valve but he still may be able to rebuild it. If not
then you are unscrewing pipe until you get to the next union. I would
seriously think about cutting it out and replacing as much as you can
with PVC. It is a lot easier to work with and it will never rust like
that did.
One hard and fast rule, always put PVC into metal, never the other
way.
Do Not put a female PVC fitting on a metal pipe. It will crack. Always
use a metal coupler and screw in a PVC male adapter with teflon dope.

Interesting idea. I'll pass it on to my friend was going to help me. But see what he says about the PVC.

Deguza

Old time plumbers scoff at PVC but that is very popular here, only
being displaced by PEX. It is rare to see any copper and threaded pipe
was dead 60 years ago except in places where the plumber's union
rules. I am over 70 and I have never seen a "new construction"
galvanized pipe job for water in a dwelling. They used to use black
iron on fire sprinklers but the last job I was inspecting was using
orange CPVC sprinkler pipe.

On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 22:00:20 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 9:51:09 PM UTC-7, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/1/2019 6:44 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I can understand that, but looking at the existing pipe you may be in
for a bit of work. Some joints will be opened or disturbed doing the
job and they may be in need of replacing too. Be prepared to do some
other work along with the valve.

I think you are right Ed. You folks made the project a lot clearer for me.

What I was hoping was that somehow I can take the existing valve out by turning it around after taking the handle and the rest of the sticking parts out.

After all, somebody was able to put together the whole contraption without soldering anything.

I was thinking I could reverse the process of putting it together.

Deguza


You can - but be prepaired to start dissassembly at the kitchen sink
- or the shower, or whatever was installed last by the possibly
clueless plumber that installed it - - - . If there is not a union
close to the entry you are literally "screwed"

On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 18:13:20 +1000, Xeno
wrote:

On 2/7/19 3:00 pm, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 9:51:09 PM UTC-7, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/1/2019 6:44 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I can understand that, but looking at the existing pipe you may be in
for a bit of work. Some joints will be opened or disturbed doing the
job and they may be in need of replacing too. Be prepared to do some
other work along with the valve.

I think you are right Ed. You folks made the project a lot clearer for me.

What I was hoping was that somehow I can take the existing valve out by turning it around after taking the handle and the rest of the sticking parts out.

After all, somebody was able to put together the whole contraption without soldering anything.

I was thinking I could reverse the process of putting it together.

Deguza

You must realise that the pipe coming out of the ground was the start
point in the assembly process. You don't know where the finish point was
*inside* the house. That point, the first coupling, will be your start
point in reversing the process. You have to find the point where
unscrewing one pipe doesn't screw another pipe in tighter at the other
end. Then you can work back to your tap from there. You will find that
the task will be like Topsy, it'll grow and grow. Far better to fix the
issue with the tap and leave the rest of the plumbing be.
Particularly if the whole house is still plumbed with iron pipe.
It's the job that never ends. You repair a fitting at point 1 and
fittings at point 5 , 7, and 11 decide they want attention too -
IMMEDIATELY.. They don't give you an option to delay anything!!!

On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 10:55:55 -0400, "Bob W." wrote:


No threading required if you use a Dresser fitting.

https://www.trupply.com/collections/...12597084192846


Might be a solution - They have apparently been used for years in
certain applications - and definitely the CHEAPEST solution at about
30 greenbacks. Not sure if it is the BEST solution though - and it
MIGHT not eliminate the other issue with the "never-ending' repair
scenario

On Tue, 02 Jul 2019 22:34:16 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 18:13:20 +1000, Xeno
wrote:

On 2/7/19 3:00 pm, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 9:51:09 PM UTC-7, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/1/2019 6:44 PM, Deguza wrote:
On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...

I can understand that, but looking at the existing pipe you may be in
for a bit of work. Some joints will be opened or disturbed doing the
job and they may be in need of replacing too. Be prepared to do some
other work along with the valve.

I think you are right Ed. You folks made the project a lot clearer for me.

What I was hoping was that somehow I can take the existing valve out by turning it around after taking the handle and the rest of the sticking parts out.

After all, somebody was able to put together the whole contraption without soldering anything.

I was thinking I could reverse the process of putting it together.

Deguza

You must realise that the pipe coming out of the ground was the start
point in the assembly process. You don't know where the finish point was
*inside* the house. That point, the first coupling, will be your start
point in reversing the process. You have to find the point where
unscrewing one pipe doesn't screw another pipe in tighter at the other
end. Then you can work back to your tap from there. You will find that
the task will be like Topsy, it'll grow and grow. Far better to fix the
issue with the tap and leave the rest of the plumbing be.
Particularly if the whole house is still plumbed with iron pipe.
It's the job that never ends. You repair a fitting at point 1 and
fittings at point 5 , 7, and 11 decide they want attention too -
IMMEDIATELY.. They don't give you an option to delay anything!!!

That is why I suggested cutting out everything he can get to and
replacing it with plastic. You can actually fish PEX in the walls but
you will need the tool for putting the rings on. You would need a lot
more tools and skill to do threaded pipe so it is a bargain.

On 7/2/2019 10:56 PM, wrote:


Particularly if the whole house is still plumbed with iron pipe.
It's the job that never ends. You repair a fitting at point 1 and
fittings at point 5 , 7, and 11 decide they want attention too -
IMMEDIATELY.. They don't give you an option to delay anything!!!

That is why I suggested cutting out everything he can get to and
replacing it with plastic. You can actually fish PEX in the walls but
you will need the tool for putting the rings on. You would need a lot
more tools and skill to do threaded pipe so it is a bargain.


Agree with that. Much easier to work with

On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 23:34:52 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/2/2019 10:56 PM, wrote:


Particularly if the whole house is still plumbed with iron pipe.
It's the job that never ends. You repair a fitting at point 1 and
fittings at point 5 , 7, and 11 decide they want attention too -
IMMEDIATELY.. They don't give you an option to delay anything!!!

That is why I suggested cutting out everything he can get to and
replacing it with plastic. You can actually fish PEX in the walls but
you will need the tool for putting the rings on. You would need a lot
more tools and skill to do threaded pipe so it is a bargain.


Agree with that. Much easier to work with

I was watching a 4 plex being built for a builder friend that was new
construction pex and I was talking to the plumber about retrofits and
he said one trick is fish the pipe, terminate the fixture end first so
you can pull the pipe out to crimp the sleeve then pull it back and
fasten the stop. Make your final crimp in the attic or crawl space at
the feed. He suggested a little squirt of red/yellow can spray foam in
the wall a few places along the run to secure the pipe so it won't
rattle. (a little squirt will do the trick, you are not filling the
whole cell or anything). Strap it any place you can reach it.

On 7/2/19 10:40 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 10:55:55 -0400, "Bob W." wrote:

No threading required if you use a Dresser fitting.

https://www.trupply.com/collections/...12597084192846


Might be a solution - They have apparently been used for years in
certain applications - and definitely the CHEAPEST solution at about
30 greenbacks. Not sure if it is the BEST solution though - and it
MIGHT not eliminate the other issue with the "never-ending' repair
scenario


In my corner of the world, the best solution is to rip that galvanized pipe junk out and install copper.

On 3/7/19 8:35 pm, devnull wrote:
On 7/2/19 10:40 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 10:55:55 -0400, "Bob W." wrote:

No threading required if you use a Dresser fitting.

https://www.trupply.com/collections/...12597084192846



Might be a solution - They have apparently been used for years in
certain applications - and definitely the CHEAPEST solution at about
30 greenbacks. Not sure if it is the BEST solution though - and it
MIGHT not eliminate the other issue with the "never-ending' repair
scenario


In my corner of the world, the best solution is to rip that galvanized
pipe junk out and install copper.

You must be in the same corner as I. I ripped the gal pipe out of my
first house and replaced it with copper. In my second house, the gal had
already been replaced with copper and this current house had copper from
new. ;-)

It is a lot of work replacing the gal with copper. When the pipes barely
flowed water because of internal buildup over 45 years, I figured
repairs weren't a viable possibility.

--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 23:34:52 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

That is why I suggested cutting out everything he can get to and
replacing it with plastic. You can actually fish PEX in the walls but
you will need the tool for putting the rings on. You would need a lot
more tools and skill to do threaded pipe so it is a bargain.


Agree with that. Much easier to work with

_PEX Tubing Technical Specifications_

https://www.pexuniverse.com/pex-tubing-technical-specs

Tools can be rented.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 1 Jul 2019 15:44:27 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...


I really wanted a rich model with a pickup truck for a wife. So we're
even.

On Wed, 03 Jul 2019 17:16:57 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 1 Jul 2019 15:44:27 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...


I really wanted a rich model with a pickup truck for a wife. So we're
even.

It would be a nice trade ;-)

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 03 Jul 2019 17:51:03 -0400,
wrote:

On Wed, 03 Jul 2019 17:16:57 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 1 Jul 2019 15:44:27 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 3:19:11 PM UTC-7, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 14:38:41 -0700 (PDT), Deguza
wrote:

The existing valve has threaded female ends as you can see on the photo he

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Frqoa1B33oXrgQlZOU8hOWZMUVRUSSQM


Can't you just replace the valve stem (kit), after you turn off the
water meter?

I suppose I can, but I really wanted a ball valve...


I really wanted a rich model with a pickup truck for a wife. So we're
even.

It would be a nice trade ;-)

Oh, yeah. I hadn't thought of that.