Hi Guys,

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

It has power (although I cycled the home circuit breakers anyway), but it
won't do anything now when the "Start" button is pressed (nor when the
"Cancel" button is pressed). All the lights on the front light up normally
(it seems).

So, it will power up, but it won't do anything (e.g., no water turns on
and no spinning occurs - in fact, there are no sounds whatsoever from
inside). It won't even turn off with the "Cancel" button (although it will
turn off when I unplug it and then plug it back in).

It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more
now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).

Any suggestions?

On 4/24/2016 6:37 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
Hi Guys,

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

It has power (although I cycled the home circuit breakers anyway), but it
won't do anything now when the "Start" button is pressed (nor when the
"Cancel" button is pressed). All the lights on the front light up normally
(it seems).

So, it will power up, but it won't do anything (e.g., no water turns on
and no spinning occurs - in fact, there are no sounds whatsoever from
inside). It won't even turn off with the "Cancel" button (although it will
turn off when I unplug it and then plug it back in).

It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more
now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).

Any suggestions?

Is the washer TOTALLY unresponsive (no lights at all)? Your comment that
it "will turn off when unplugged" suggests there is *some* sign of life.

Can you get it into its built-in diagnostic (self-test) mode? From
there, its easier to get an idea of what "popped" and your possible
recourse. Check your user manual or google "Whirlpool Duet Sport Diagnostics"

On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:09:11 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Is the washer TOTALLY unresponsive (no lights at all)? Your comment
that it "will turn off when unplugged" suggests there is *some* sign of
life.

The lights look normal.
There are indicator lights for lots of things (e.g., water temperature,
rinse cycles, alarms, timers, etc., all of which seem to be normal).

The only thing is that the "Start" button does nothing.
No sounds. No water. No spinning.

Also, the "Cancel" button doesn't cancel.

Can you get it into its built-in diagnostic (self-test) mode?

I don't know how, but I will download a manual to see what it can tell me.

At this point, I'm only asking if anyone has experience with a similar
circumstance, where a "popping" sound presaged the Start button not
working.

From there, its easier to get an idea of what "popped" and your possible
recourse.

I will open the back and see what I can find.

Check your user manual or google "Whirlpool Duet Sport Diagnostics"

I am going to do that.

On 4/24/2016 9:12 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:09:11 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Is the washer TOTALLY unresponsive (no lights at all)? Your comment
that it "will turn off when unplugged" suggests there is *some* sign of
life.

The lights look normal.

So, it's not completely dead (as you would expect if a "fuse was blown")

There are indicator lights for lots of things (e.g., water temperature,
rinse cycles, alarms, timers, etc., all of which seem to be normal).

The only thing is that the "Start" button does nothing.
No sounds. No water. No spinning.

Also, the "Cancel" button doesn't cancel.

Can you get it into its built-in diagnostic (self-test) mode?

I don't know how, but I will download a manual to see what it can tell me.

See below.

At this point, I'm only asking if anyone has experience with a similar
circumstance, where a "popping" sound presaged the Start button not
working.

Chances are, some power semiconductor device expelled some "magic blue smoke".

From there, its easier to get an idea of what "popped" and your possible
recourse.

I will open the back and see what I can find.

Check your user manual or google "Whirlpool Duet Sport Diagnostics"

I am going to do that.

Paraphrased from
http://applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Duet/Duet-Washer-Diagnostic-Tests.php:

Duet Washer Diagnostic Test Mode

Your Duet washer needs to be in standby (Plugged in with all lights off)

Pick any three buttons on the control except power, start, or cancel.

Now press this button sequence RAPIDLY (within eight seconds)
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3,
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3,
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3
You are pressing 9 buttons in 8 seconds so it needs to be pretty quick.)

If you've accessed the diagnostics, all the control lights will turn on
and "888" will be displayed showing you all the time display lights are
working. After a few seconds tall the washer's display lights will flash.
If there are any saved error or fault codes the time display should now
show the most recent error code.

[If this doesn't happen, try a different set of three buttons -- just
in case one of the buttons happens to coincidentally be broken! I.e.,
instead of A, B and C, try A, B and D (in case C is broken); then, try
A, C and D (in case B was broken); then B, C and D (in case A was broken)]

Remember which buttons you chose for #1, #2 and #3! You will be using them
again to troubleshoot problems.

Note: If no buttons are pressed on the washer for 5 minutes the washer
will exit the diagnostics mode.

Consult
http://applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Duet/Duet-Washer-Error-Codes.php
for an explanation of error codes displayed.

The first URL also gives some "test procedures" you can do to "force"
the washer to perform specific actions -- which you can then observe
to give more clues as to likely problems.

One of the advantages of microprocessor controlled devices is that they
can provide some assistance *before* calling a "paid professional".

Good luck!

On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 22:19:45 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Pick any three buttons on the control except power, start, or cancel.

Now press this button sequence RAPIDLY (within eight seconds)
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3,
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3,
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3
You are pressing 9 buttons in 8 seconds so it needs to be pretty quick.)

Bummer. Tried it many times. Nothing happens when I press any three
buttons like that in succession three times.

Will dig in further ...

On 4/24/2016 11:29 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 22:19:45 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Pick any three buttons on the control except power, start, or cancel.

Now press this button sequence RAPIDLY (within eight seconds)
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3,
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3,
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3
You are pressing 9 buttons in 8 seconds so it needs to be pretty quick.)

Bummer. Tried it many times. Nothing happens when I press any three
buttons like that in succession three times.

Will dig in further ...

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter".
Also note the serial numbers for which that document applies.
There are probably different sequences required to activate
these modes on different versions of the "same" product
(model numbers and names are only loosely correlated).

Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed
indicators) -- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of
what you do?

I *think* the first thing that most front loaders do is try
to lock the door after the cycle is commanded to begin.
It's possible the door lock mechanism had/has a short and that
let the magic blue smoke escape.

Unfortunately, if it took out the control board in the process
(to the point where it is completely unresponsive even after
cycling power), knowing where the short lies is probably small
consolation. And, unless you can find and repair the short
(or other failure), repairing/replacing the control board will
just give you a repeat failure.

On 25/04/2016 9:37 AM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
Hi Guys,

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

It has power (although I cycled the home circuit breakers anyway), but it
won't do anything now when the "Start" button is pressed (nor when the
"Cancel" button is pressed). All the lights on the front light up normally
(it seems).

So, it will power up, but it won't do anything (e.g., no water turns on
and no spinning occurs - in fact, there are no sounds whatsoever from
inside). It won't even turn off with the "Cancel" button (although it will
turn off when I unplug it and then plug it back in).

It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more
now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).

Any suggestions?


Google is your friend :-)

http://applianceassistant.com/Washer...rror-Codes.php

Try that and google first before posting.

At this point, I'm only asking if anyone has experience with a similar
circumstance, where a "popping" sound presaged the Start button not
working.
I will open the back and see what I can find.


For my LG front loader - access is achieved by removing the top.
There are other appliance forums that you might wish to search
or post your enquiry ... http://appliantology.org/
Let us know what you find - good luck.
John T.

On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 8:38:03 PM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
Hi Guys,

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

It has power (although I cycled the home circuit breakers anyway), but it
won't do anything now when the "Start" button is pressed (nor when the
"Cancel" button is pressed). All the lights on the front light up normally
(it seems).

So, it will power up, but it won't do anything (e.g., no water turns on
and no spinning occurs - in fact, there are no sounds whatsoever from
inside). It won't even turn off with the "Cancel" button (although it will
turn off when I unplug it and then plug it back in).

It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more
now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).

Any suggestions?

Did your wife smell anything burning. All these newfangled electronically controlled appliances have components that contain "Magic Smoke" which is necessary for the electronics to operate. When the MS escapes, the appliance stops working. The age of your appliance could mean that an electronic component called an "electrolytic capacitor" has failed. Unfortunately, manufacturers often save a few cents on parts by purchasing components that just meet the requirements to make the unit work. The bane of modern electronic devices is the inexpensive electrolytics that manufacturers seem to be fond of using. Anyone who works with electronics can spot a failed electrolytic capacitor because it has swelled or is leaking. Here's a video of a fellow replacing some failed electrolytic capacitors in a TV set. This will give you some idea of what to look for on your washer's control board or power supply. ^_^

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvlNKZ8GzEg

[8~{} Uncle Smoked Monster

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 04:49:33 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

Did your wife smell anything burning. All these newfangled
electronically controlled appliances have components that contain "Magic
Smoke" which is necessary for the electronics to operate. When the MS
escapes, the appliance stops working. The age of your appliance could
mean that an electronic component called an "electrolytic capacitor" has
failed. Unfortunately, manufacturers often save a few cents on parts by
purchasing components that just meet the requirements to make the unit
work. The bane of modern electronic devices is the inexpensive
electrolytics that manufacturers seem to be fond of using. Anyone who
works with electronics can spot a failed electrolytic capacitor because
it has swelled or is leaking. Here's a video of a fellow replacing some
failed electrolytic capacitors in a TV set. This will give you some idea
of what to look for on your washer's control board or power supply. ^_^


There was absolutely no smell, although we used to blow up electrolytic
caps (the blue unipolar water tank type) by sticking them in outlets in
physics class and then waiting for some unsuspecting student to turn
the lights on in the Physics lab - and I don't remember any smell at
that time.

Anyway, the wife screamed when it happened, so I was there within a
minute, and I didn't detect any smell myself.

I'm very familiar with the electrolytic caps, and I am hopeful that
I'll see something burnt or blown inside when I open it up.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

Hi Guys,

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

It has power (although I cycled the home circuit breakers anyway), but it
won't do anything now when the "Start" button is pressed (nor when the
"Cancel" button is pressed). All the lights on the front light up normally
(it seems).

So, it will power up, but it won't do anything (e.g., no water turns on
and no spinning occurs - in fact, there are no sounds whatsoever from
inside). It won't even turn off with the "Cancel" button (although it will
turn off when I unplug it and then plug it back in).

It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more
now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).

Any suggestions?
Can you open the door to the washer? If not it may be the door
interlock has failed. The sound could have been mechanical.
If the door interlock doesn't work properly then it is likely the
switch in the interlock is preventing the washer from working. I had a
similar experience when the door seal failed and squirted water into
the interlock switch.
Eric

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 16:33:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
wrote:

Try that and google first before posting.

Don't be picking on my Huckleberry. Danny has been around longer than
you, that I can tell. Follow some of his threads and you could learn
something.

Wad up Huckleberry? (I figured the kids have you busy) :-)

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 16:33:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull wrote:

Google is your friend

http://applianceassistant.com/Washer...-Washer-Error-
Codes.php

Try that and google first before posting.

Thanks for the pointer, but I can't get any codes out of the
Whirlpool duet Sport Washer WFW8410SW even though I have the following
manuals as described on this post from more than two years ago on the
same washer (but for a different problem).

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/alt.home.repair/whirlpool$20duet$20danny/alt.home.repair/3Q0hbYtmEJI/tN1jjcJdeugJ

Troubleshooting manuals,
https://www.whirlpool.com/manuals/

(WFW8410SW) Use & Care Guide:
https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalass...0W10235940.pdf

Parts list:
https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalass...0W10238202.pdf

BTW, all the lights light, but nothing works; even the door is locked
shut (with the clothes still imprisoned inside).

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:09:48 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter".
Also note the serial numbers for which that document applies.
There are probably different sequences required to activate
these modes on different versions of the "same" product
(model numbers and names are only loosely correlated).

I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice)
diagnostic-test instructions are for a newer model, as mine
is a Duet Sport model number WFW8410SW.

I didn't have this information before, because the door
won't open (which is where the sticker is); but I checked
my records and my duet is the "8410", which doesn't
have the blueish display screen that you see in the ones
described at that (otherwise nice) web page.

Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed
indicators) -- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of
what you do?

All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights
up normally when I press the buttons. The only things that
don't work, really, is that the door is locked and the
washer won't start when I press the Start button.

All indicators respond normally otherwise.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 10:54:20 -0700, Oren wrote:

Don't be picking on my Huckleberry. Danny has been around longer than
you, that I can tell. Follow some of his threads and you could learn
something.

Wad up Huckleberry? (I figured the kids have you busy)

Hi there my Huckleberry friend!

Yeah, I "inherited" my sister's kids. She's the same sister whose house
I had been fixing up a while ago after her divorce. So, I have both
grandkids and her kids now, which is more kids at times than I had on my
own when I was young and peppy! (Now I wear knee pads just to work on a
washing machine!).

Having her as a permanent guest is like having a second wife!

So, I'd better fix this thing, before *both* of them kill me
first!

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 10:28:12 -0700, etpm wrote:

Can you open the door to the washer? If not it may be the door
interlock has failed. The sound could have been mechanical.
If the door interlock doesn't work properly then it is likely the
switch in the interlock is preventing the washer from working. I had a
similar experience when the door seal failed and squirted water into
the interlock switch.
Eric

You are correct in that the door is locked shut, under all conditions.
Whether the washer is plugged in or not, or if the start and cancel
are operated, the door won't open.

There is no water because the wash never started, so, it could
be the door interlock. Right now I'm searching for a model-specific
troubleshooting manual that can give me diagnostic codes.

The model number is WFW8410SW, Whirlpool duet Sport Washing Machine.
My last thread on this washing machine was more than two years ago,
which I found by going to http://tinyurl.com/alt-home-repair and
typing in the washer model number WFW8410SW.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/alt.home.repair/WFW8410SW|sort:relevance/alt.home.repair/3Q0hbYtmEJI/FsLs2j_8N58J

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 07:14:56 -0400, hubops wrote:

For my LG front loader - access is achieved by removing the top.
There are other appliance forums that you might wish to search
or post your enquiry ... http://appliantology.org/
Let us know what you find - good luck.
John T.

Thanks for the advice.

It looks like removing the bottom also gains access to things,
which is shown in these two videos (although their problem is
that it won't drain - which isn't my problem - but that's the
same model as mine, which is the WFW8410SW where I think SW
just means "white") so it's a WFW8410.

Video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQTvBSnEWsI
Video 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1ceH7TKkoE

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 1:45:51 PM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:09:48 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter".
Also note the serial numbers for which that document applies.
There are probably different sequences required to activate
these modes on different versions of the "same" product
(model numbers and names are only loosely correlated).

I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice)
diagnostic-test instructions are for a newer model, as mine
is a Duet Sport model number WFW8410SW.

I didn't have this information before, because the door
won't open (which is where the sticker is); but I checked
my records and my duet is the "8410", which doesn't
have the blueish display screen that you see in the ones
described at that (otherwise nice) web page.

Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed
indicators) -- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of
what you do?

All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights
up normally when I press the buttons. The only things that
don't work, really, is that the door is locked and the
washer won't start when I press the Start button.

All indicators respond normally otherwise.

I was just thinking if the door latch is out of adjustment just a little, the interlock could keep the washer from starting. I'd try banging on the door latch with my fist to see if that could be the problem. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Banging Monster

On 4/25/2016 11:45 AM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:09:48 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter".
Also note the serial numbers for which that document applies.
There are probably different sequences required to activate
these modes on different versions of the "same" product
(model numbers and names are only loosely correlated).

I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice)
diagnostic-test instructions are for a newer model, as mine
is a Duet Sport model number WFW8410SW.

Ah. Try:

- select a button
- press (and hold) it for 4 seconds
- release for 4 seconds
- press (and hold) it for 4 seconds
- release for 4 seconds
- press (and hold) it for 4 seconds

http://appliantology.org/gallery/image/512-whirlpool-duet-sport-washer-manual-diagnostic-mode/
indicates a few more presses but I think you will see results
after the first three.


I didn't have this information before, because the door
won't open (which is where the sticker is); but I checked
my records and my duet is the "8410", which doesn't
have the blueish display screen that you see in the ones
described at that (otherwise nice) web page.

If the door won't open, then the lock mechanism is either broken
or the actuator to unlock it is not functioning. If the
door won't *lock*, then the washer won't start because there
is a switch in the mechanism that informs the washer that the
door is, in fact, locked. (but, the washer should complain
that it can't lock the door/"door open")

Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed
indicators) -- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of
what you do?

All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights
up normally when I press the buttons. The only things that
don't work, really, is that the door is locked and the
washer won't start when I press the Start button.

All indicators respond normally otherwise.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 18:35:11 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

BTW, all the lights light, but nothing works; even the door is locked
shut (with the clothes still imprisoned inside).

I'm the wrong one to give advice. How you checked voltage of the wall
outlet? Pulled the face plate of the control panel to look for scorch
marks behind it, by-pass the interlock on the door. Easy stuff first -
KISS principle..
--
"We recommend using your hand to replace the fuse as it will take much longer using your knee."

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 18:53:58 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 10:28:12 -0700, etpm wrote:

Can you open the door to the washer? If not it may be the door
interlock has failed. The sound could have been mechanical.
If the door interlock doesn't work properly then it is likely the
switch in the interlock is preventing the washer from working. I had a
similar experience when the door seal failed and squirted water into
the interlock switch.
Eric

You are correct in that the door is locked shut, under all conditions.
Whether the washer is plugged in or not, or if the start and cancel
are operated, the door won't open.

There is no water because the wash never started, so, it could
be the door interlock. Right now I'm searching for a model-specific
troubleshooting manual that can give me diagnostic codes.

The model number is WFW8410SW, Whirlpool duet Sport Washing Machine.
My last thread on this washing machine was more than two years ago,
which I found by going to http://tinyurl.com/alt-home-repair and
typing in the washer model number WFW8410SW.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/alt.home.repair/WFW8410SW|sort:relevance/alt.home.repair/3Q0hbYtmEJI/FsLs2j_8N58J

There should be a manual release of the interlock. Look in the manual.
Once the interlock is manually disengaged the washer should try to
function normally. If the manual door unlock doesn't work even when
actuated then the mechanical linkage may be broken which is what the
noise may have been. Or it may be that the switch in the interlock has
corroded contacts like mine did from water squirting directly at the
switch from a leaky tub seal. On my washer I carefully took apart the
switch and cleaned the contacts inside. This fixed the washer
operation. I still had to replace the belt, tub pulley, and tub seal.
And my nice maple floor is warped under the washer from that damn seal
leak. GRRR. If it is the interlock and if your washer is anything
like my GE then you are in for some fun. If you enjoy fixing washers.
I was ****ed off at GE for the lousy construction. Still am for that
matter.
Eric

Danny DiAmico wrote:



There is no water because the wash never started, so, it could
be the door interlock. Right now I'm searching for a model-specific
troubleshooting manual that can give me diagnostic codes.
There is a place you can slied a screwdriver or table knife to unlock the
door, if you need to.

The smarts are usually just one small PC board in the "console" at the back
of the washer. Often there are a few angled screws and the while thing
lifts straight up. (OK, looks like yours is a front load, so the
construction is a bit different.)

Most of the newer machines, and I'll bet all of the recent front-loads, use
3-phase motors and VFDs integrated into the controller board. I suspect the
load pop was something in the VFD blowing. You ought to pull the board and
inspect for burst components or traces burned off the board. If you find
any of that, it may be best to just replace the whole board (although it
will be expensive.)

We have one of the super-efficient top loaders, and I've done quite a bit of
maintenance on it.

Jon

On 4/25/2016 12:10 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 1:45:51 PM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:09:48 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter". Also note the
serial numbers for which that document applies. There are probably
different sequences required to activate these modes on different
versions of the "same" product (model numbers and names are only loosely
correlated).

I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice) diagnostic-test
instructions are for a newer model, as mine is a Duet Sport model number
WFW8410SW.

I didn't have this information before, because the door won't open (which
is where the sticker is); but I checked my records and my duet is the
"8410", which doesn't have the blueish display screen that you see in the
ones described at that (otherwise nice) web page.

Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed indicators)
-- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of what you do?

All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights up normally
when I press the buttons. The only things that don't work, really, is that
the door is locked and the washer won't start when I press the Start
button.

All indicators respond normally otherwise.

I was just thinking if the door latch is out of adjustment just a little,
the interlock could keep the washer from starting. I'd try banging on the
door latch with my fist to see if that could be the problem. ^_^

The latch mechanism is under a fair bit of tension. It's possible that
the mechanism "exploded" (there's a REALLY stiff spring inside to hold
the latch open/closed -- it remains locked/unlocked in the absence of
power so the spring provides that "holding power") and caused the
noise.

But, a latch stuck locked wouldn't prevent the cycle from starting;
the machine WANTS the door to be latched!

And, a locked latch that erroneously thinks it is UNLOCKED (possible as
the switch may still be indicating unlocked even if the BROKEN mechanism
is locked) would signal an error (at the very least, an indicator light:
"door open").

There's still a piece missing from the OP's diagnosis...

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...


Yeah, I "inherited" my sister's kids. She's the same sister whose house
I had been fixing up a while ago after her divorce. So, I have both
grandkids and her kids now, which is more kids at times than I had on my
own when I was young and peppy! (Now I wear knee pads just to work on a
washing machine!).

Having her as a permanent guest is like having a second wife!

So, I'd better fix this thing, before *both* of them kill me
first!


Instructions to the nearest laundromat would seem in order.

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:31:16 -0700, Oren wrote:

I'm the wrong one to give advice. How you checked voltage of the wall
outlet? Pulled the face plate of the control panel to look for scorch
marks behind it, by-pass the interlock on the door. Easy stuff first -
KISS principle..

Power is fine.

Panel is in the laundry room and I've flipped the breakers and tested
the iron with the outlet, so, it's something in the washer itself.

WFW8410SW

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 16:02:36 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...


Yeah, I "inherited" my sister's kids. She's the same sister whose house
I had been fixing up a while ago after her divorce. So, I have both
grandkids and her kids now, which is more kids at times than I had on my
own when I was young and peppy! (Now I wear knee pads just to work on a
washing machine!).

Having her as a permanent guest is like having a second wife!

So, I'd better fix this thing, before *both* of them kill me
first!


Instructions to the nearest laundromat would seem in order.

Dang right. Send the sister, her kids, any others kids away for
laundry time.

Have a beverage and relax. Danny, my Huckleberry, deserves his safe
space.
--
"We recommend using your hand to replace the fuse as it will take much longer using your knee."

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 20:11:26 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:31:16 -0700, Oren wrote:

I'm the wrong one to give advice. How you checked voltage of the wall
outlet? Pulled the face plate of the control panel to look for scorch
marks behind it, by-pass the interlock on the door. Easy stuff first -
KISS principle..

Power is fine.


....next

Panel is in the laundry room and I've flipped the breakers and tested
the iron with the outlet, so, it's something in the washer itself.

WFW8410SW

I'm talking about the washer control panel. Look behind it for
evidence of scorched areas. Directly behind the start / cancel button
pads.
--
"We recommend using your hand to replace the fuse as it will take much longer using your knee."

Oren posted for all of us...



On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 16:02:36 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...


Yeah, I "inherited" my sister's kids. She's the same sister whose house
I had been fixing up a while ago after her divorce. So, I have both
grandkids and her kids now, which is more kids at times than I had on my
own when I was young and peppy! (Now I wear knee pads just to work on a
washing machine!).

Having her as a permanent guest is like having a second wife!

So, I'd better fix this thing, before *both* of them kill me
first!


Instructions to the nearest laundromat would seem in order.

Dang right. Send the sister, her kids, any others kids away for
laundry time.

Have a beverage and relax. Danny, my Huckleberry, deserves his safe
space.

Just think, they could throw ALL the wash in one industrial size washer and
save bux over the smaller units. Have a party and ice cream.

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 18:48:49 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

Having her as a permanent guest is like having a second wife!


Guest are like trash -- take it out every three (3) days ...

Seriously. Have you mentioned to the kids about the rattlesnakes,
yet?
--
"We recommend using your hand to replace the fuse as it will take much longer using your knee."

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:52:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

There's still a piece missing from the OP's diagnosis...

Nope. He said something "popped", wasn't present and didn't smell
smoke.
--
"We recommend using your hand to replace the fuse as it will take much longer using your knee."

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:52:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 4/25/2016 12:10 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 1:45:51 PM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:09:48 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter". Also note the
serial numbers for which that document applies. There are probably
different sequences required to activate these modes on different
versions of the "same" product (model numbers and names are only loosely
correlated).

I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice) diagnostic-test
instructions are for a newer model, as mine is a Duet Sport model number
WFW8410SW.

I didn't have this information before, because the door won't open (which
is where the sticker is); but I checked my records and my duet is the
"8410", which doesn't have the blueish display screen that you see in the
ones described at that (otherwise nice) web page.

Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed indicators)
-- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of what you do?

All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights up normally
when I press the buttons. The only things that don't work, really, is that
the door is locked and the washer won't start when I press the Start
button.

All indicators respond normally otherwise.

I was just thinking if the door latch is out of adjustment just a little,
the interlock could keep the washer from starting. I'd try banging on the
door latch with my fist to see if that could be the problem. ^_^

The latch mechanism is under a fair bit of tension. It's possible that
the mechanism "exploded" (there's a REALLY stiff spring inside to hold
the latch open/closed -- it remains locked/unlocked in the absence of
power so the spring provides that "holding power") and caused the
noise.

But, a latch stuck locked wouldn't prevent the cycle from starting;
the machine WANTS the door to be latched!

If the latch blew up holding the door closed but the switch was thrown
to the other side of the washer and thinks the door is open, you would
have that situation.

And, a locked latch that erroneously thinks it is UNLOCKED (possible as
the switch may still be indicating unlocked even if the BROKEN mechanism
is locked) would signal an error (at the very least, an indicator light:
"door open").

There's still a piece missing from the OP's diagnosis...

The latch mechanism is under a fair bit of tension. It's possible that
the mechanism "exploded" (there's a REALLY stiff spring inside to hold
the latch open/closed -- it remains locked/unlocked in the absence of
power so the spring provides that "holding power") and caused the
noise.



From what I have read so far - this is where I'd start.
Try pressing the door in and out ; maybe jiggle up & down slightly -
to see if anything happens -
.. with power on - to generate an error code ?
Pop the lid & examine the door lock mechanism -
carefully - in case the spring is waiting to bite you ..
John T.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 14:46:13 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

There is no water because the wash never started, so, it could
be the door interlock. Right now I'm searching for a model-specific
troubleshooting manual that can give me diagnostic codes.

There is a place you can slied a screwdriver or table knife to unlock the
door, if you need to.

A one inch wide flexible putty knife might git under and it a git it
done. Don't use Mon's butter knives for screwdrivers. You have been
warned.
--
"Dumb is local...As soon as you go 15 miles away from your dumbness, you see how dumb you are." -- Sherrod Small

On 4/25/2016 2:02 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:52:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 4/25/2016 12:10 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 1:45:51 PM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:09:48 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter". Also note the
serial numbers for which that document applies. There are probably
different sequences required to activate these modes on different
versions of the "same" product (model numbers and names are only loosely
correlated).

I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice) diagnostic-test
instructions are for a newer model, as mine is a Duet Sport model number
WFW8410SW.

I didn't have this information before, because the door won't open (which
is where the sticker is); but I checked my records and my duet is the
"8410", which doesn't have the blueish display screen that you see in the
ones described at that (otherwise nice) web page.

Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed indicators)
-- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of what you do?

All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights up normally
when I press the buttons. The only things that don't work, really, is that
the door is locked and the washer won't start when I press the Start
button.

All indicators respond normally otherwise.

I was just thinking if the door latch is out of adjustment just a little,
the interlock could keep the washer from starting. I'd try banging on the
door latch with my fist to see if that could be the problem. ^_^

The latch mechanism is under a fair bit of tension. It's possible that
the mechanism "exploded" (there's a REALLY stiff spring inside to hold
the latch open/closed -- it remains locked/unlocked in the absence of
power so the spring provides that "holding power") and caused the
noise.

But, a latch stuck locked wouldn't prevent the cycle from starting;
the machine WANTS the door to be latched!

If the latch blew up holding the door closed but the switch was thrown
to the other side of the washer and thinks the door is open, you would
have that situation.

No, you would have an error indication saying "I won't start
the cycle because you have the door open". Or, a simple
"door open"/"add garment" indicator.

The reason the latch has a sensor to indicate its state is so
the processor can verify it as locked before starting the cycle.

As I said:

And, a locked latch that erroneously thinks it is UNLOCKED (possible as
the switch may still be indicating unlocked even if the BROKEN mechanism
is locked) would signal an error (at the very least, an indicator light:
"door open").

There's still a piece missing from the OP's diagnosis...

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 17:02:30 -0400, wrote:

If the latch blew up holding the door closed but the switch was thrown
to the other side of the washer and thinks the door is open, you would
have that situation.

Dang right. Something "popped".

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 17:02:30 -0400, clare wrote:

If the latch blew up holding the door closed but the switch was thrown
to the other side of the washer and thinks the door is open, you would
have that situation.

I finally got an error code, after fiddling with the buttons.
You press any button, rinse cycle is a good one, for 3 to 4 seconds on
and then off for the same amount of time, for 3 to as many as it takes
times. After a dozen times, I finally saw the error code F28.

F28 appears to be a communications error in the Whirlpool duet sport
WFW8410SW where the Main Control Board (CCU W10679602, $300) isn't
communicating with the Motor Control Board (MCU W10163007 $265) or if
the front or back panel "grounding switches" are open.

Apparently the motor control board (MCU) converts single-phase power
to 3 phases to run the motor; it also slows down the motor by braking
it electrically.

According to this article, the solution might be as simple as rebooting
the computer! http://www.ehow.com/how_8052747_fix-...pool-duet.html

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 23:10:42 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 17:02:30 -0400, clare wrote:

If the latch blew up holding the door closed but the switch was thrown
to the other side of the washer and thinks the door is open, you would
have that situation.

I finally got an error code, after fiddling with the buttons.
You press any button, rinse cycle is a good one, for 3 to 4 seconds on
and then off for the same amount of time, for 3 to as many as it takes
times. After a dozen times, I finally saw the error code F28.

F28 appears to be a communications error in the Whirlpool duet sport
WFW8410SW where the Main Control Board (CCU W10679602, $300) isn't
communicating with the Motor Control Board (MCU W10163007 $265) or if
the front or back panel "grounding switches" are open.

Apparently the motor control board (MCU) converts single-phase power
to 3 phases to run the motor; it also slows down the motor by braking
it electrically.

According to this article, the solution might be as simple as rebooting
the computer! http://www.ehow.com/how_8052747_fix-...pool-duet.html



... that certainly explains the sharp crack .. not.
But good luck & please post your findings.
... that said - my brand new LG makes a rude noise
when the door lock operates .. mechanical sounding though -
not a pop at all ..
John T.

On 4/25/2016 4:25 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 23:10:42 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 17:02:30 -0400, clare wrote:

If the latch blew up holding the door closed but the switch was thrown
to the other side of the washer and thinks the door is open, you would
have that situation.

I finally got an error code, after fiddling with the buttons.
You press any button, rinse cycle is a good one, for 3 to 4 seconds on
and then off for the same amount of time, for 3 to as many as it takes
times. After a dozen times, I finally saw the error code F28.

F28 appears to be a communications error in the Whirlpool duet sport
WFW8410SW where the Main Control Board (CCU W10679602, $300) isn't
communicating with the Motor Control Board (MCU W10163007 $265) or if
the front or back panel "grounding switches" are open.

Apparently the motor control board (MCU) converts single-phase power
to 3 phases to run the motor; it also slows down the motor by braking
it electrically.

According to this article, the solution might be as simple as rebooting
the computer! http://www.ehow.com/how_8052747_fix-...pool-duet.html

Unlikely. Did you run all of the other "tests" to see which pass and
which fail? And, what they have in common?

The motor control board no doubt has a high voltage rectifier (to convert
the 120VAC from your mains to ~160VDC) and "switching logic" (FETs)
to control the application of that power to the windings of the
motor -- in a controlled fashion (a "variable frequency drive").

Either the rectifier failed (explosively -- literally!) or one
of the FETs failed (explosively -- hence the "pop" noise; you'll
probably find one or more "plastic" electrical components with a
cracked case as the device instantaneously went from room temperature
to something approaching the core of the Sun : ).

Touch the case of the washer (to remove any static electric charge
on your body -- not sure where you live/climate/etc.) while still connected
to the AC mains (but powered off).

Unplug the washer.

Gain access to the drive motor. Unplug the wiring harness from that
motor. Check for continuity between each pair of pins. You're
not just looking for "continuity" but are actually trying to quantify
the resistance between each pair of pins AND THE MOTOR CASE.
You'll expect to see a low reading (5-10 ohms). If you see anything
higher, a winding is "open". Anything lower (esp '0'!) is a short.

Short is what will typically expel the magic smoke.

Point of this is to decide if you ALSO need a new motor (chances are,
you DO need a new motor controller).

You can then remove the motor controller and give it a once-over
for cosmetic damage. It may be sensational -- or, may be difficult
to notice. Compare similar components to each other, carefully
(there are probably 3 or 4 identical circuits driving the motor
and a "chip"/computer driving those circuits.

It's possible that you just have a bad connection in one of the
cables (water can be very corrosive; things can vibrate loose, etc.)
but SOMETHING gave up the ghost.

... that certainly explains the sharp crack .. not.
But good luck & please post your findings.
... that said - my brand new LG makes a rude noise
when the door lock operates .. mechanical sounding though -
not a pop at all ..
John T.

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 14:35:15 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 4/25/2016 2:02 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:52:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 4/25/2016 12:10 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 1:45:51 PM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:09:48 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter". Also note the
serial numbers for which that document applies. There are probably
different sequences required to activate these modes on different
versions of the "same" product (model numbers and names are only loosely
correlated).

I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice) diagnostic-test
instructions are for a newer model, as mine is a Duet Sport model number
WFW8410SW.

I didn't have this information before, because the door won't open (which
is where the sticker is); but I checked my records and my duet is the
"8410", which doesn't have the blueish display screen that you see in the
ones described at that (otherwise nice) web page.

Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed indicators)
-- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of what you do?

All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights up normally
when I press the buttons. The only things that don't work, really, is that
the door is locked and the washer won't start when I press the Start
button.

All indicators respond normally otherwise.

I was just thinking if the door latch is out of adjustment just a little,
the interlock could keep the washer from starting. I'd try banging on the
door latch with my fist to see if that could be the problem. ^_^

The latch mechanism is under a fair bit of tension. It's possible that
the mechanism "exploded" (there's a REALLY stiff spring inside to hold
the latch open/closed -- it remains locked/unlocked in the absence of
power so the spring provides that "holding power") and caused the
noise.

But, a latch stuck locked wouldn't prevent the cycle from starting;
the machine WANTS the door to be latched!

If the latch blew up holding the door closed but the switch was thrown
to the other side of the washer and thinks the door is open, you would
have that situation.


No, you would have an error indication saying "I won't start
the cycle because you have the door open". Or, a simple
"door open"/"add garment" indicator.


Except when I posted the OP had not been able to find any error codes.

The reason the latch has a sensor to indicate its state is so
the processor can verify it as locked before starting the cycle.

As I said:

And, a locked latch that erroneously thinks it is UNLOCKED (possible as
the switch may still be indicating unlocked even if the BROKEN mechanism
is locked) would signal an error (at the very least, an indicator light:
"door open").

There's still a piece missing from the OP's diagnosis...

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 14:15:03 -0700, Oren wrote:

A one inch wide flexible putty knife might git under and it a git it
done. Don't use Mon's butter knives for screwdrivers. You have been
warned.

Hi Oren,
Opening the door turned out to be easy.

In the WFW8410SW, Whirlpool duet Sport Washing Machine, there is a
special pull tab for opening the door.

Here is a picture of it in my washing machine:
http://c74i.imgup.net/pulltab19b0a.gif