On 4/25/2016 4:25 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 23:10:42 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 17:02:30 -0400, clare wrote:

If the latch blew up holding the door closed but the switch was thrown
to the other side of the washer and thinks the door is open, you would
have that situation.

I finally got an error code, after fiddling with the buttons.
You press any button, rinse cycle is a good one, for 3 to 4 seconds on
and then off for the same amount of time, for 3 to as many as it takes
times. After a dozen times, I finally saw the error code F28.

F28 appears to be a communications error in the Whirlpool duet sport
WFW8410SW where the Main Control Board (CCU W10679602, $300) isn't
communicating with the Motor Control Board (MCU W10163007 $265) or if
the front or back panel "grounding switches" are open.

Apparently the motor control board (MCU) converts single-phase power
to 3 phases to run the motor; it also slows down the motor by braking
it electrically.

According to this article, the solution might be as simple as rebooting
the computer! http://www.ehow.com/how_8052747_fix-...pool-duet.html

Unlikely. Did you run all of the other "tests" to see which pass and
which fail? And, what they have in common?

The motor control board no doubt has a high voltage rectifier (to convert
the 120VAC from your mains to ~160VDC) and "switching logic" (FETs)
to control the application of that power to the windings of the
motor -- in a controlled fashion (a "variable frequency drive").

Either the rectifier failed (explosively -- literally!) or one
of the FETs failed (explosively -- hence the "pop" noise; you'll
probably find one or more "plastic" electrical components with a
cracked case as the device instantaneously went from room temperature
to something approaching the core of the Sun : ).

Touch the case of the washer (to remove any static electric charge
on your body -- not sure where you live/climate/etc.) while still connected
to the AC mains (but powered off).

Unplug the washer.

Gain access to the drive motor. Unplug the wiring harness from that
motor. Check for continuity between each pair of pins. You're
not just looking for "continuity" but are actually trying to quantify
the resistance between each pair of pins AND THE MOTOR CASE.
You'll expect to see a low reading (5-10 ohms). If you see anything
higher, a winding is "open". Anything lower (esp '0'!) is a short.

Short is what will typically expel the magic smoke.

Point of this is to decide if you ALSO need a new motor (chances are,
you DO need a new motor controller).

You can then remove the motor controller and give it a once-over
for cosmetic damage. It may be sensational -- or, may be difficult
to notice. Compare similar components to each other, carefully
(there are probably 3 or 4 identical circuits driving the motor
and a "chip"/computer driving those circuits.

It's possible that you just have a bad connection in one of the
cables (water can be very corrosive; things can vibrate loose, etc.)
but SOMETHING gave up the ghost.

... that certainly explains the sharp crack .. not.
But good luck & please post your findings.
... that said - my brand new LG makes a rude noise
when the door lock operates .. mechanical sounding though -
not a pop at all ..
John T.