On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 11:55:37 AM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Mon, 02 May 2016 09:32:04 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

Well Dan I hope you can get it repaired but the problem with a lot electronic
controls is that when they're hit with a power surge that blows the hell out
of the protectors and blasts runs off a circuit board, all the other parts
are often damaged. MOV's will actually wear out after so many power surges.
On phone lines, me and the guys always installed extra protection and the
protectors would sacrifice themselves to protect the equipment.
The protectors are easily replaced by plugging in a new one.
At your home, you should look into a meter base surge arrester from your
power company. I think it will add a few bucks to your power bill every
month but your power company will guarantee it to protect your appliances.
I don't know what the power company policy is where you reside but it
wouldn't hurt to ask them about a whole house surge arrester. ^_^

Meter base protection:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-50240-.../dp/B0019F6X3I

Whole house surge arrester:
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page...uckduckgo-d-20

Thanks for the suggestion of a whole-house surge suppressor.

I do have a generator, which kicks in automatically as the power goes
out here in California at least a dozen times a year (it's like living
in a third world country).

I'm not even counting the times the power goes out for seconds, where
the generator doesn't even kick in, or only kicks in for a few seconds,
the power is that bad from PG&E.

So, the two-hundred dollar Amazon surge suppressor you listed looks
reasonable (considering it would cost more than that to put MOVs on
all the computers and electronic devices).

I wonder how it works if I buy that two-hundred dollar part:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-50240-.../dp/B0019F6X3I

Or, if I buy the eighty-dollar part:
http://www.amazon.com/WHOLE-LIGHTNIN...2207395&sr=8-4

Does the power company let me put it in myself?

You should really call your power company first to see if they'll supply it and guarantee it. If you get your own, you'll need a licensed electrician to install it because he'll notify the power company that the seal has been cut off the meter mount. If you have an old style meter which requires a human meter reader to look at it, he/she/it will report the removal of the seal and this upsets power companies. If you have a smart meter, it will rat on you to the power company that it has been removed without permission. Now you can install your own whole house arrester on your main power panel without having to notify the power company but you should find out about the requirements for permits. If you're in a rural area, there are usually no permit Nazis around and nosy neighbors to turn you in. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Surge Monster

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 06:54:05 -0500, CRNG wrote:

Well done. It's good to see that kind of community-based planning,
cooperation and action.

Thanks for noticing that we all work together (as Jeff Liebermann would
know, we stick together in the mountains).

I called the "circuit board medics" at 800-547-2049 last week who
said that an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport washer is almost always
a bad motor control board.

This was before I had taken out the MCU and found it burnt, so, they're
right. In hindsight, if I had only known that, I wouldn't have removed
both the CCU and the EMI filter (I broke a wire on the CCU trying to get
it out, for example).
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

So, to help others.
1. If you get an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport WFW8410SW, it's almost
always the motor control board.
2. Wiggle the blue wires on both the motor control board and the CCU,
but if that doesn't solve the problem, then you have to remove the
motor control board.
3. To remove the MCU, you have to remove the 16 quarter-inch hexhead
screws holding the back plate in place.
4. It's advised to also remove the lower cross brace (two more screws).
5. Some people remove the top of the shock absorber but I left it in place.
6. Then you have to cut or dig out the 4 tie wraps holding the harnesses
to the MCU plastic covering.
7. Then you have to be a genius or a magician to put a screwdriver under
the MCU white box and pry it up and then slide the MCU toward the
front of the washer, to get it to release its grip.
8. Then you remove all the wire connections & pull it out from the
bottom of the Whirlpool duet sport washer.
9. Once you pry open (and probably break) the crappy plastic (they
really use really really really brittle plastic), you will see
the scorch marks as shown below.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

At this point, you put the MMU back in its plastic case, and you remove
the CCU (if desired) and you ship both of those boards to the rebuilders
at "Circuit Board Medics" 800-547-2049x3) at your cost. They told me
that USPS is the least responsible, so use UPS or Fedex.

Exclusive of your costs to ship to them, the charges a
A. Exchange rebuilt MCU = $175 ($160 + $15 shipping + $100 core charge)
B. Rebuild your MCU = $145 ($130 + $15 return shipping)

They give you a 1-year warranty and they will test both boards for
free, just in case my totally burned out MCU isn't the real problem.
http://i.cubeupload.com/xRnjw9.jpg

Here's a picture of my CCU, which seems to be in OK shape:
http://i.cubeupload.com/zBAmq5.jpg

Unless I find a better deal than ~$150, I think I'll have them rebuild
my board. A brand-new washer is only four or five times that at about
$600 to $800, so, it's an expensive enough repair to wonder if I should
just buy a new washer instead.

Nonetheless, I don't have much money lately (being retired is costing
me more than I thought, especially with two families living under the
same household now, with my sister and her kids living with me), so,
I will just look to see if I can find a new board for around that same
price.

Otherwise, I'd suggest the rebuilders as they seem competent.

On Mon, 02 May 2016 10:19:21 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

You should really call your power company first to see if they'll supply
it and guarantee it. If you get your own, you'll need a licensed
electrician to install it because he'll notify the power company that
the seal has been cut off the meter mount. If you have an old style
meter which requires a human meter reader to look at it, he/she/it
will report the removal of the seal and this upsets power companies.
If you have a smart meter, it will rat on you to the power company
that it has been removed without permission. Now you can install your
own whole house arrester on your main power panel without having to
notify the power company but you should find out about the requirements
for permits. If you're in a rural area, there are usually no permit
Nazis around and nosy neighbors to turn you in. ^_^

It's a smart meter.

Yes. It's rural. And I have a good rapport with my neighbors, where
we have a rule, simply stated as "you can do anything you want on
your property and I won't say 'nuthin" ... just stay off "my" property!

Heh heh ... (everyone out here has guns except me, and the only reason
I don't have 'em is because I'm worried about the kids getting a hold
of 'em accidentally, since I know of a family that was affected by that
happening).

I like the idea of putting something on the circuit breaker itself.

Here's what I have, as far as I know, given that all houses out here
must have no wires attached to them within 25 feet of the house except
underground:
1. I have my own dedicated power pole with a transformer on it about
fifty feet from the house.
2. The underground feed pops up at the outside panel and I can see
three inch-thick aluminium feeds (which I presume is 200 amp service
at two phases)
3. The meter is a smart meter attached at the feed, outside the house.
4. The Generac inverter box is on the inside of the wall where the
meter is.
5. There is a main circuit breaker panel outside at the meter which
basically has only a few circuits on it as I recall (the pool,
the well, and the big stuff like the garage 220 volts).
6. Inside there are two circuit breaker panels, one for the old part
of the house and one for the newer part of the house).

So, I would guess that I put the device in the circuit breaker panel
outside. Is that correct?

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 12:36:58 PM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Mon, 02 May 2016 10:19:21 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

You should really call your power company first to see if they'll supply
it and guarantee it. If you get your own, you'll need a licensed
electrician to install it because he'll notify the power company that
the seal has been cut off the meter mount. If you have an old style
meter which requires a human meter reader to look at it, he/she/it
will report the removal of the seal and this upsets power companies.
If you have a smart meter, it will rat on you to the power company
that it has been removed without permission. Now you can install your
own whole house arrester on your main power panel without having to
notify the power company but you should find out about the requirements
for permits. If you're in a rural area, there are usually no permit
Nazis around and nosy neighbors to turn you in. ^_^

It's a smart meter.

Yes. It's rural. And I have a good rapport with my neighbors, where
we have a rule, simply stated as "you can do anything you want on
your property and I won't say 'nuthin" ... just stay off "my" property!

Heh heh ... (everyone out here has guns except me, and the only reason
I don't have 'em is because I'm worried about the kids getting a hold
of 'em accidentally, since I know of a family that was affected by that
happening).

I like the idea of putting something on the circuit breaker itself.

Here's what I have, as far as I know, given that all houses out here
must have no wires attached to them within 25 feet of the house except
underground:
1. I have my own dedicated power pole with a transformer on it about
fifty feet from the house.
2. The underground feed pops up at the outside panel and I can see
three inch-thick aluminium feeds (which I presume is 200 amp service
at two phases)
3. The meter is a smart meter attached at the feed, outside the house.
4. The Generac inverter box is on the inside of the wall where the
meter is.
5. There is a main circuit breaker panel outside at the meter which
basically has only a few circuits on it as I recall (the pool,
the well, and the big stuff like the garage 220 volts).
6. Inside there are two circuit breaker panels, one for the old part
of the house and one for the newer part of the house).

So, I would guess that I put the device in the circuit breaker panel
outside. Is that correct?

You should put in on the "main" breaker panel which feeds all the other panels. There has been research by government agencies on how to protect equipment from the EMP produced by a nuclear explosion. They cascade protection from where power enters a building all through a facility on all sub-panels and even individual pieces of equipment. You can call your power company or get on their website and search for surge arresters. If they lease one to you that their tech adds to your meter, they may insure your appliances and electronic gear. It doesn't hurt to check. ^_^


[8~{} Uncle Power Monster

On Mon, 2 May 2016 15:45:37 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

Let me know if these pictures need to be shrunk further as I do
try to document everything not only so that you guys can help
me, but also so that others benefit from each action we take.

Much better. They load fast, now. Thanks.

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...



Thanks for all your advice; I think it's the Motor Control Unit
(Whirlpool P/N 8540540).

If you skip to the bottom of this post, you'll see pictures of the
burned board. Do you concur based on the photos below that it's
the motor control board?

Why didn't the diagnostic test work then?

Anyway, after being totally unsuccessful at getting the Whirlpool duet
sport WFW8410SW washing machine to diagnose anything other than F28
(which is apparently the same "communications error" as the infamous F11
that youtubers all deplore), I finally just took the whole thing apart.

The en133200 F11.126/980-214 EMI Noise Filter near where the power
comes in seemed to be in good shape:
http://i.cubeupload.com/9NouUy.gif

The main computer control board (Whirlpool PN W10063510) also seemed
to be in good shape on the bottom:
http://i.cubeupload.com/3AJpZe.gif

And on the top:
http://i.cubeupload.com/vHyNQx.gif

And even looking to the sides:
http://i.cubeupload.com/s47l8r.gif
http://i.cubeupload.com/HXFRaC.gif

But, the motor control board had "something" wrong with it based
on what the plastic looked like:
http://i.cubeupload.com/0hFNfc.gif

I don't know what actually burned yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/NzBAH1.gif

As the two capacitors seem to be intact:
http://i.cubeupload.com/DLgrxP.gif

Here's one of the capacitors at a side view:
http://i.cubeupload.com/LHKttV.gif

And here's the other capacitor:
http://i.cubeupload.com/eySoyP.gif

This shows a burned trace on the MMU:
http://i.cubeupload.com/zTTwBd.gif

And this shows a closeup of that:
http://i.cubeupload.com/pg2KkN.gif

As does this show burnt components or traces:
http://i.cubeupload.com/hXFq4P.gif

I don't think I can figure out, on my own, whether
it's repairable (I suspect it's not - do you?).

So, at this point, if you have good pointers for where to buy a
new Whirlpool motor control board (PN 8540540), I'd appreciate
more advice now that it's pretty sure that it's the MCU and not
the CCU.

DOS Dead On Scene...

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

Just to give back to the team with a current update ........
http://i.cubeupload.com/YGQ9cM.jpg

1. I shipped the boards off to "Circuit Board Medics" at 800-547-2049
2. They told me over the phone my F28 (aka F11) is almost certainly a blown MMU.
3. They didn't know it at the time, but my MMU has multiple charcoal spots!
4. So, they're right.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

5. Nonetheless, I sent them *both* the MMU and the CCU.
6. This is so that they can test them both (just in case).
http://i.cubeupload.com/RfF0Bv.jpg

7. Current charges are $130 + $15 Fed Ex out + $15 shipping & handling back.
8. That's $160 for them to rebuild the MMU, with a 1-year warranty.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k7Hwkl.jpg

9. Other options were to buy a new ($200 to $300) or used ($100 to $200) MMU.
10. Or a new washing machine ($600 to $800).
http://i.cubeupload.com/ErHVuc.jpg

On Thu, 5 May 2016 01:14:25 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

Just to give back to the team with a current update ........
http://i.cubeupload.com/YGQ9cM.jpg

1. I shipped the boards off to "Circuit Board Medics" at 800-547-2049
2. They told me over the phone my F28 (aka F11) is almost certainly a blown MMU.
3. They didn't know it at the time, but my MMU has multiple charcoal spots!
4. So, they're right.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

5. Nonetheless, I sent them *both* the MMU and the CCU.
6. This is so that they can test them both (just in case).
http://i.cubeupload.com/RfF0Bv.jpg

7. Current charges are $130 + $15 Fed Ex out + $15 shipping & handling back.
8. That's $160 for them to rebuild the MMU, with a 1-year warranty.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k7Hwkl.jpg

9. Other options were to buy a new ($200 to $300) or used ($100 to $200) MMU.
10. Or a new washing machine ($600 to $800).
http://i.cubeupload.com/ErHVuc.jpg

Danny,

Have you read the warranty for what is actually covered? (Power surges
or installed by a homeowner, acts of God) :-\

On Thu, 05 May 2016 10:57:38 -0700, Oren wrote:

Danny,

Have you read the warranty for what is actually covered? (Power surges
or installed by a homeowner, acts of God) :-\

Naah. I'm not a believer in warrantees.

A lot of people buy batteries, for example, based on the warranty, which
is ridiculous for something so easily characterized by its physical
attributes. Same with tires which have standardized tests run on them
(yes, I know the tests are flawed, but relying on the standard government
tests is better than relying upon marketing warrantees).

In fact, I can't think of more than one or two instances in my entire
life that I've actually made good on a parts warranty anyway.

So, I'm not really worried about the warranty. I'm more worried that
I just paid almost $200 to repair something that is only worth about
3 to 4 times that, which is an almost unacceptable level of repair.

In fact, parting out washing machines must be a lucrative business
because the darn thing only has about a dozen major parts, so, if each
major part is $200, then I should *buy* new washing machines and part
them out as a business to supplement my retirement.

On Thu, 05 May 2016 20:25:26 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

In fact, I can't think of more than one or two instances in my entire
life that I've actually made good on a parts warranty anyway.

By the way, since I wonder what you guys think of the three shipping
services, as I ran into the following "issue" trying to ship a 2 pound
box from California to South Carolina.

1. USPS
2. UPS
3. Fedex

USPS
Since I needed to trust that the parts got there and that they weren't
lost, and since I didn't pay for insurance (I never do), I didn't use
the USPS because, in my experience, USPS may be inexpensive, but they're
quite unreliable (highly unreliable in fact).

UPS
Normally, I have no problem with UPS being the cheapest shipper and the
second most reliable shipper. But in this case, UPS was $18 so I walked
out the door and headed over to FedEx to check their prices.

FedEx
Normally I find FedEx the most reliable but often the most expensive,
but in this case, they were 3 dollars cheaper (on a $15 price, which
is a whopping 20%) so, I went with FedEx five day.

Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS?
I thought it was normally the other way around?

On 5/5/2016 4:34 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Thu, 05 May 2016 20:25:26 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:


Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS?
I thought it was normally the other way around?



Fedex, always cheaper.

Have you not heard of Ebay?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Ke...AOSwjMJXC~d R

If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420

There's probably other listings

On Thu, 05 May 2016 16:49:28 -0400, JC wrote:

Fedex, always cheaper.


I'm actually surprised that FedEx is "always cheaper" than UPS.
If that's true, I wonder why?

Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they
have inherent efficiencies over UPS?

Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?


Have you not heard of Ebay?

Of course.
When I googled for the part, I saw $25 boards on Ebay.
While I love a good price as much as anyone does, the range for the boards was
from $25 to $250 aftermarket, and $300 OEM from Whirlpool.

The problem with that is I don't have the EXPERIENCE to know which Ebay
supplier is reliably providing a good board or not.

While I'm all for taking risks, you usually have to offset a risk
with some knowledge. For example, I don't buy tire warrantees because
I can fix my own flats, so, I ameliorate the risk.

I didn't have the knowledge to buy a $25 board on Ebay and get
away with it on the first shot by getting a good part.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Ke...AOSwjMJXC~d R
If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420
There's probably other listings

I saw that EXACT board when I first googled, as I remember the
writing on the metal heat sink. The problem is that I don't
have enough information to TRUST that $60 price. Yeah, I see
the 98% feedback but I don't know how much I can trust that.

Like anyone, I'd rather pay $60 + $15 +$15 = $90 over
$145 + $15 = $160 but I feel I can trust the circuit board medics,
while I'm not sure what to trust in that board.

So, I *would* have gone for the $25 board if I had more information,
but I didn't have enough to trust Ebay.

On 5/5/2016 6:30 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Thu, 05 May 2016 16:49:28 -0400, JC wrote:

Fedex, always cheaper.


I'm actually surprised that FedEx is "always cheaper" than UPS.
If that's true, I wonder why?

Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they
have inherent efficiencies over UPS?

Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?



UPS is union labor, Fedex are not, which is why they are sometimes
really crap at deliveries using contracted white van guys. I've had
plenty of problems with fedex but they usually sort it in my favor. Not
knocking UPS, they are good but also have a few bad guys. For a washing
machine board I'd use USPS priority. (Use the free boxes). Never lost
one package in 16 years.

You seem to be overworking the washing machine thing, for $60 I'd go for
the "tested working" board, if it don't work or blows up when installed
you get your money back through Ebay (no contest there) and you probably
know there is something else wrong that's blowing up the board. Same
thing will happen with your $200 rebuild. Scary stuff.

On Thu, 05 May 2016 19:22:48 -0400, JC wrote:

You seem to be overworking the washing machine thing, for $60 I'd go for
the "tested working" board, if it don't work or blows up when installed
you get your money back through Ebay (no contest there) and you probably
know there is something else wrong that's blowing up the board. Same
thing will happen with your $200 rebuild. Scary stuff.

This may very well be the case.
It's too late now, but, you must agree that I did *ask* first!

Your suggestion didn't come up until *after* I made the decision.
However, its' still a good one, as maybe I erred on the wrong side.

I won't know if it works if I made the right decision.
But if it doesn't work - that's where we'll see if it matters.

I do *understand* your point that I wasted my money out of sheer fear.
But, to my credit, I *did* ask first.

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...



On Thu, 05 May 2016 16:49:28 -0400, JC wrote:

Fedex, always cheaper.


I'm actually surprised that FedEx is "always cheaper" than UPS.
If that's true, I wonder why?

Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they
have inherent efficiencies over UPS?

Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?


Have you not heard of Ebay?

Of course.
When I googled for the part, I saw $25 boards on Ebay.
While I love a good price as much as anyone does, the range for the boards was
from $25 to $250 aftermarket, and $300 OEM from Whirlpool.

The problem with that is I don't have the EXPERIENCE to know which Ebay
supplier is reliably providing a good board or not.

While I'm all for taking risks, you usually have to offset a risk
with some knowledge. For example, I don't buy tire warrantees because
I can fix my own flats, so, I ameliorate the risk.

I didn't have the knowledge to buy a $25 board on Ebay and get
away with it on the first shot by getting a good part.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Ke...AOSwjMJXC~d R
If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420
There's probably other listings

I saw that EXACT board when I first googled, as I remember the
writing on the metal heat sink. The problem is that I don't
have enough information to TRUST that $60 price. Yeah, I see
the 98% feedback but I don't know how much I can trust that.

Like anyone, I'd rather pay $60 + $15 +$15 = $90 over
$145 + $15 = $160 but I feel I can trust the circuit board medics,
while I'm not sure what to trust in that board.

So, I *would* have gone for the $25 board if I had more information,
but I didn't have enough to trust Ebay.

Everybody has their comfort level. It's the crap shoot of life.

Isn't it time to collect money off your sister? Is she the one that broke
it? g Map the laundromats?

--
Tekkie

On Sat, 07 May 2016 15:14:48 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

Everybody has their comfort level. It's the crap shoot of life.

Isn't it time to collect money off your sister? Is she the one that
broke it? g Map the laundromats?

I think the multiple power surges during the recent rain is what
fried the MMU board.

I haven't heard anything from the rebuilders yet, but I'll let
you know what happens when I know.

On Saturday, May 7, 2016 at 7:11:00 PM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Sat, 07 May 2016 15:14:48 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

Everybody has their comfort level. It's the crap shoot of life.

Isn't it time to collect money off your sister? Is she the one that
broke it? g Map the laundromats?

I think the multiple power surges during the recent rain is what
fried the MMU board.

I haven't heard anything from the rebuilders yet, but I'll let
you know what happens when I know.

Have you considered adding surge protection? ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Surge Monster

On Sat, 07 May 2016 17:34:22 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

Have you considered adding surge protection? ^_^

Here, in California, in the boonies of Silicon Valley, the power
went out about 5 or 6 times for at least an hour in the last
month or two.

There were at least a half dozen or more times where the power
just momentarily flickered throughout the whole house.

So a "whole house" surge suppressor is a good idea, as long
as it has a feasible installation cost.

On Sunday, May 8, 2016 at 5:37:49 AM UTC-5, Danny DiAmico wrote:
On Sat, 07 May 2016 17:34:22 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

Have you considered adding surge protection? ^_^

Here, in California, in the boonies of Silicon Valley, the power
went out about 5 or 6 times for at least an hour in the last
month or two.

There were at least a half dozen or more times where the power
just momentarily flickered throughout the whole house.

So a "whole house" surge suppressor is a good idea, as long
as it has a feasible installation cost.

Have you called your power company about a meter base surge arrester? They install it and for a few bucks a month often guarantee your appliances against damage. Get on their website and see if it's available. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Surge Monster

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...



On Sat, 07 May 2016 15:14:48 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

Everybody has their comfort level. It's the crap shoot of life.

Isn't it time to collect money off your sister? Is she the one that
broke it? g Map the laundromats?

I think the multiple power surges during the recent rain is what
fried the MMU board.

You don't have to tell her that. She creates a power surge every time she
uses it. It was fine to she touched it...G

I haven't heard anything from the rebuilders yet, but I'll let
you know what happens when I know.

That reminds me of something. Actually two...

--
Tekkie

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...



On Sat, 07 May 2016 17:34:22 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

Have you considered adding surge protection? ^_^

Here, in California, in the boonies of Silicon Valley, the power
went out about 5 or 6 times for at least an hour in the last
month or two.

There were at least a half dozen or more times where the power
just momentarily flickered throughout the whole house.

So a "whole house" surge suppressor is a good idea, as long
as it has a feasible installation cost.

As a personal note I find this unacceptable. I would be on the phone with
the supplier and lodge a complaint. Find out what is the maximum acceptable
outage rate from the state. Complain. There may be one fault that affects
many and you would be helping your neighbors and yourself. The squeaky wheel
gets the grease.

There has been other discussions on whole house protectors. Like Unc says
the utility may supply them for what I feel (at least around here) an
excessive cost. An electrician can install one and be done. I would also
have the sparky check all grounding and bonding while he she is there as
many of these kind of faults are where the problem lies. I believe G
Fretwell or Claire brought this up. I would also check out John Grabowski's
info as he has been another straight shooter here.

It's your money so tell those wimmen to grab rocks and go to the stream
because you want your tighty whiteys spotless.

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Bad news.

The Circuit Board Medics said the motor control board (PN 8540540, also
PN W10163007) for the Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8410SW washing machine
was not repairable. http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

They said it's not even useful for the $100 core charge for the
$165 so the price, they say, is $230 for a rebuilt board.

Sigh.

On Mon, 23 May 2016 17:19:30 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Bad news.

The Circuit Board Medics said the motor control board (PN 8540540, also
PN W10163007) for the Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8410SW washing machine
was not repairable. http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

They said it's not even useful for the $100 core charge for the
$165 so the price, they say, is $230 for a rebuilt board.

Sigh.

Send the wife on a shopping spree to the local appliance store for a
new unit that meets her fancy.

Huckleberry

Oren posted for all of us...



On Mon, 23 May 2016 17:19:30 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Bad news.

The Circuit Board Medics said the motor control board (PN 8540540, also
PN W10163007) for the Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8410SW washing machine
was not repairable. http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

They said it's not even useful for the $100 core charge for the
$165 so the price, they say, is $230 for a rebuilt board.

Sigh.

Send the wife on a shopping spree to the local appliance store for a
new unit that meets her fancy.

Huckleberry

I think the daughter should go too because she broke it and the $$$$

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 23 May 2016 10:52:56 -0700, Oren wrote:

Send the wife on a shopping spree to the local appliance store for a
new unit that meets her fancy.

The latest update is that the Circuit Board Medics tried to screw me
(IMHO) so I told them to send me back everything.

Two days later they call me up (to their credit, they called both
days but I didn't bother to pick up the phone), and changed their tune.
9
So, at the moment, they're gonna send me back my original CCU and a
rebuilt MCU for $165 (plus my original $$20 or so to ship it to them).

In the end, it was a waste of time and money to go to the Circuit Board
Medics because for $191 + about 10% tax I could have gotten a brand
new MCU board locally in 1 day.

Lesson learned.

But anyway, I'll let you know what happens when the board arrives and
I put it in the washing machine. (The women folk are on my case.)

On Mon, 23 May 2016 16:28:06 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

I think the daughter should go too because she broke it and the $$$$

Sister.

Anyway, after telling the Circuit Board Medics to just send me
everything back, they decided to change their pricing back to what
they had originally told me.

They tried to talk me into a 40 dollar shipping but I refused,
since I was not happy with them changing their prices on me.

To be fair, they think they didn't change their price. I did.

They originally told me that it's OK if the board is burnt, as
long as it didn't have 'water damage'. I offered to send them
a picture beforehand, but they said they didn't need that.

Then, when they got the board, they tried to tell me they
couldn't use the core board, and at that point, they wanted
to charge me an additional hundred dollars. That would have
made the rebuilt replacement MORE expensive than a new board
(which is $191 at the local appliance shop).

I told them to send me everything back, and then they called
me up and changed their story back to what it originally was.

We'll see how this turns out, but, I can't really recommend
them at this point. In hindsight, the right answer would have
been to just pick up a NEW board for about $200 locally instead
of their rebuild for $165 + $20 shipping.

On Thu, 26 May 2016 16:37:45 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
wrote:


But anyway, I'll let you know what happens when the board arrives and
I put it in the washing machine. (The women folk are on my case.)

Maybe I could give a lesson on 'women folk on my case'. No Honey Do
List, it's a "dead line list". I made it through Tuesday (LMAO).

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...



On Mon, 23 May 2016 10:52:56 -0700, Oren wrote:

Send the wife on a shopping spree to the local appliance store for a
new unit that meets her fancy.

The latest update is that the Circuit Board Medics tried to screw me
(IMHO) so I told them to send me back everything.

Two days later they call me up (to their credit, they called both
days but I didn't bother to pick up the phone), and changed their tune.
9
So, at the moment, they're gonna send me back my original CCU and a
rebuilt MCU for $165 (plus my original $$20 or so to ship it to them).

In the end, it was a waste of time and money to go to the Circuit Board
Medics because for $191 + about 10% tax I could have gotten a brand
new MCU board locally in 1 day.

Lesson learned.

But anyway, I'll let you know what happens when the board arrives and
I put it in the washing machine. (The women folk are on my case.)

I would not wash the new board. Place it where the old board was. I would
collect $5 for every complaint. If they don't like that then tell them to go
to the stream with their rocks.

--
Tekkie

On Thu, 26 May 2016 10:15:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

Maybe I could give a lesson on 'women folk on my case'. No Honey Do
List, it's a "dead line list". I made it through Tuesday (LMAO).

Hi Oren,

The good news is that the rebuilt Whirlpool motor control board from
circuit board medics worked fine.

So all that matters now is the lesson learned for others.

Total cost was $165 + about $20 (I forget exactly how much shipping was)
and the turnaround time was atrocious but that's partly my fault since I
was unsure of how to proceed. Normal turnaround time should be four to
five days to get there, a day or two to test & rebuild, and then four or
five days to get back (it was from California to North Carolina and I
didn't pay the $40 for two-day shipping by Fedex).

A brand new board at a local appliance store would be $191 + about 10% tax
with a turnaround time of 1 day (let's double that, to two days or three
days to be safe).

Seems like a no brainer, in hindsight. The one thing is that the circuit
board medics did test the computer control board in addition to the motor
control board, so, in essence, we have to factor in that costs somewhere.

The DIAGNOSTIC lesson learned is pretty simple, but it's only something
that is learned from experience (which the circuit board medics did have).

If a Whirlpool duet Sport has an F28 (or F11 on Kenmore models), then
almost certainly it's the Motor Control Board, so, the FIRST THING you
should do for diagnostics is simply remove the back washer plate, remove
the lower brace, and remove the motor control board.

You *will* break every one of the four of five cheap plastic tie-wrap
butterfly anchors. I simply duct taped the new wires back in place but a
more elegant solution would have been to purchase a few of those anchor
clips.

Once you remove the motor control board, you will see black spots, which
is your confirmation of failure.

In the end, that is the simplest advice for an F28 (or F11) communications
error. The advice only works because the circuit board medics said an F28
communications error is 99% of the time the motor control board (or the
blue wires going to it fell off).

On Thu, 26 May 2016 16:02:12 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

But anyway, I'll let you know what happens when the board arrives and I
put it in the washing machine. (The women folk are on my case.)

I would not wash the new board. Place it where the old board was. I
would collect $5 for every complaint. If they don't like that then tell
them to go to the stream with their rocks.

I put the board in the washing machine, and it worked.
Here is the summary for the next person.

1. A power outage can fry your washing machine.
2. If you get a Whirlpool F28 communications error (same as Kenmore F11
I'm told), then 99% of the time is is a fried Motor Control Board (I'm
told).
3. Remove the back plate of the washing machine & the lower brace to
expose the motor control board
4. Remove the upper cover of the washing machine to expose the main
computer board.
5. Look around. Blue wires are critical. So check the blue wires from the
CCU to the MCU. Otherwise, remove the motor control board and check for
burn marks.

If you see evidence of damage on the motor control board, just go buy a
new one for around $200 at a local appliance store. (Whirlpool factory
prices area about $320 and Ebay is as low as $50 but you have to be
confident of the supplier).

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...


I put the board in the washing machine, and it worked.


What kind of detergent did you use?

--
Tekkie

The rebuilt motor control board is still working great.
So, the solution when you have the F28 communications error is to check
the blue wires between the computer control unit and the motor control
unit and to check the motor control unit for black burnt spots.

Danny DiAmico news:ngm06g$6r0$1
@news.mixmin.net Sun, 08 May 2016 00:10:57 GMT in alt.home.repair,
wrote:

On Sat, 07 May 2016 15:14:48 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

Everybody has their comfort level. It's the crap shoot of life.

Isn't it time to collect money off your sister? Is she the one that
broke it? g Map the laundromats?

I think the multiple power surges during the recent rain is what
fried the MMU board.

Multiple surges, depending on duration and surge strength can take
their toll on any surge surpressor too. Including the panel install
style. The panel surge surpressor does offer some protection, but,
don't put all your eggs in one basket.



--
MID:
Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a
zip file but then not be able to unzip it so I can watch it. That
seems VERY clever!
http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=145716711400

replying to Danny DiAmico, Kings wrote:
Mine has the same problem. Whirlpool needs to do something about this mess.
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/fe
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/ff

On 7/11/2018 12:44 PM, Kings wrote:
replying to Danny DiAmico, Kings wrote:
Mine has the same problem. Whirlpool needs to do something about this mess.
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/fe
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/ff


People are more than happy to spend $1000 on an iPhone every 3-4 years, why do you think an $800 washer should last longer than that?

Kings prodded the keyboard with:

replying to Danny DiAmico, Kings wrote:
Mine has the same problem. Whirlpool needs to do something about
this mess.
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/fe
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/ff

Just a guess... Motor failure ! Brushes worn out, arcing kills power
semiconductor... Bang !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.