Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.


Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.


Looked on line at the tutorials and they just show a guy with a brad gun
putting them in staggered about a foot apart.


There is no mention of studs.

Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.


My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...


I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.


The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.

philo wrote:
Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.


Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.


Looked on line at the tutorials and they just show a guy with a brad
gun putting them in staggered about a foot apart.


There is no mention of studs.

Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.


My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...


I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a
good deal of them.


The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm
wondering if that's why they did not mention the importance of
hitting studs.

The fact that you're putting in nails from 2 directions helps - and using
construction adhesive is a mistake , makes a mess . Before you start , find
where the bottom edge of the molding will be , and strike a chalk line about
1/8" below the lowest point - use blue or white chalk , red will NOT wash
off . This will give you a guide to help keep from twisting the mold as you
work down the wall . If you're painting , mitered corners will be OK , if
staining learn to cope the inside corners for a better fit .
The biggest thing to remember is : When you're cutting the molding , the
wall side goes against the back , and the ceiling side goes against the bed
of your chop saw . This will have the ends "reversed" , so left is right and
right is left . So if you're cutting an outside miter for the right end ,
you cut the left end when on the saw . Hope that was clear ...
--
Snag

On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 07:31:47 -0500, philo wrote:


Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.

I did a few rooms with 4' oak a few years ago.
Used 2" brads. Plenty strong as long as hit stud/joists.

My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...

I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.

The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.

Used a magnet from a hard drive to find studs and joists. Tagged them
with pieces of masking tape.
If you're using foam/plastic crown molding I'd consider gluing it.

"philo" wrote in message ...

Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.


Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.


Well, yer in for a treat of a lifetime, son.
LOL

On 08/14/2015 7:31 AM, philo wrote:
....

Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.

....


My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...


I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.
....

Should be no problem in finding them all since you can cover up the
exploratory holes...average out the locations you've found to get a
starting point and measuring 16" OC should get them--unless, of course,
you had a typical framing crew these days and they put every third one
or the like on the wrong side of the mark...


The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.

As another says, I'd absolutely forego that; it'll just make a mess and
is a pita to deal with without smearing all over everywhere...

The "cheating" way that makes for easy nailing is to cut an angled
filler blocking and put it in the corner and then you've got a
continuous nailing surface plus (assuming you cut the angle correctly)
you've got a guide to keep it uniform. With larger crown this can be a
godsend; for smaller it's pretty easy to do without but for a newbie
it's a nice crutch.

As another says, take some time and practice and learn to cope the
corners; also note that way you can butt the starting end and only cope
the matching piece of one corner per wall, not two...

--

On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 07:31:47 -0500, philo wrote:

Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.


Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.


Looked on line at the tutorials and they just show a guy with a brad gun
putting them in staggered about a foot apart.


There is no mention of studs.

Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.


My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...


I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.


The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.


You can use some triangular 2X4 block behind the crown in places for
support - nailed to the top plate with a 3.5" finish nail.

Sample:

http://www.myoldworkshop.com/trim/crown-molding-installation-tips/

When I installed my first crown I found this book to be of great help.

http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Molding-Trim-Install-Like/dp/1612331807

When you cut angles, keep in mind the room is not perfectly square so
you have to compensate for some angles. Make plenty of test cuts on
small crown pieces -- recommended you buy 10% more crown than you need
because you will make mistakes. BTDT

As Terry said, glue just makes a mess. And what
if you need to take the molding down later without
replacing the wallpaper? You want 4F or 6F nails,
depending on the size of the molding and what's in
the wall. (You also need to find wood in the ceiling.)

You say crown molding. Do you really mean the
45 degree stuff? That's tricky at the joints. You'll
need a good miter saw. Hopefully you're using wood
and not the oversized plastic crap, which will always
look like oversized plastic crap, unfortunately. (I've
seen foam crown molding as big as about 16" high.
Like putting a giant BMW logo on a Yugo, it tries to
express classiness but only makes matters worse.)

If you
are using wood and plan to paint it, I'd suggest primer
and a first coat before you put it up. Then fill the
nailholes with lightweight spackle, spot prime, and do
a finish coat. Otherwise you'll be faced with trying to
paint that tiny underside right up to the wallpaper,
without getting any on the wallpaper.

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message ...

There is no mention of studs.


Pleasance says I'm her stud.
I though I would mention that.

On 08/14/2015 08:08 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
philo wrote:
Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.


Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.


Looked on line at the tutorials and they just show a guy with a brad
gun putting them in staggered about a foot apart.


There is no mention of studs.

Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.


My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...


I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a
good deal of them.


The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm
wondering if that's why they did not mention the importance of
hitting studs.

The fact that you're putting in nails from 2 directions helps - and using
construction adhesive is a mistake , makes a mess . Before you start , find
where the bottom edge of the molding will be , and strike a chalk line about
1/8" below the lowest point - use blue or white chalk , red will NOT wash
off . This will give you a guide to help keep from twisting the mold as you
work down the wall . If you're painting , mitered corners will be OK , if
staining learn to cope the inside corners for a better fit .
The biggest thing to remember is : When you're cutting the molding , the
wall side goes against the back , and the ceiling side goes against the bed
of your chop saw . This will have the ends "reversed" , so left is right and
right is left . So if you're cutting an outside miter for the right end ,
you cut the left end when on the saw . Hope that was clear ...




Thanks

So I don't screw up the mitering, I'm just going to use corner blocks.

If you say the adhesive is messy I'll skip it...I figure that if I get
the brads into a number of studs, it's not going to go anywhere.

On 08/14/2015 08:14 AM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 07:31:47 -0500, philo wrote:


Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.

I did a few rooms with 4' oak a few years ago.
Used 2" brads. Plenty strong as long as hit stud/joists.

My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...

I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.

The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.

Used a magnet from a hard drive to find studs and joists. Tagged them
with pieces of masking tape.
If you're using foam/plastic crown molding I'd consider gluing it.




The crow molding is just pine and my wife is going to paint it first,
then once I have it installed, I'll have to touch it up.

I do have a stud finder but there is noting like poking a brad through
the drywall to confirm where the stud is. All exploratory holes will be
behind the molding so they will not show.

I marked the spot on the ceiling with pencil and will just erase it or
paint over it when done.

On 08/14/2015 08:29 AM, Edmund J. Burke wrote:
"philo" wrote in message ...
Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.


Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.


Well, yer in for a treat of a lifetime, son.
LOL





Oh there have been several times in my life where I've done something
I've never done before.

On 08/14/2015 08:31 AM, dpb wrote:
On 08/14/2015 7:31 AM, philo wrote:
...

Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.

...


My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...


I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.
...

Should be no problem in finding them all since you can cover up the
exploratory holes...average out the locations you've found to get a
starting point and measuring 16" OC should get them--unless, of course,
you had a typical framing crew these days and they put every third one
or the like on the wrong side of the mark...


The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.

As another says, I'd absolutely forego that; it'll just make a mess and
is a pita to deal with without smearing all over everywhere...

The "cheating" way that makes for easy nailing is to cut an angled
filler blocking and put it in the corner and then you've got a
continuous nailing surface plus (assuming you cut the angle correctly)
you've got a guide to keep it uniform. With larger crown this can be a
godsend; for smaller it's pretty easy to do without but for a newbie
it's a nice crutch.

As another says, take some time and practice and learn to cope the
corners; also note that way you can butt the starting end and only cope
the matching piece of one corner per wall, not two...

--





House was built in 1898 but they complied quite well to the 16"
standard. Most of the studs were right where I expected them to be.
There was one wall where after find two of thew studs, the 3rd one was
not where I expected it...so I just started from the other wall and all
was OK

On 08/14/2015 08:36 AM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 07:31:47 -0500, philo wrote:

Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.


Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.


Looked on line at the tutorials and they just show a guy with a brad gun
putting them in staggered about a foot apart.


There is no mention of studs.

Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.


My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...


I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.


The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.


You can use some triangular 2X4 block behind the crown in places for
support - nailed to the top plate with a 3.5" finish nail.

Sample:

http://www.myoldworkshop.com/trim/crown-molding-installation-tips/

When I installed my first crown I found this book to be of great help.

http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Molding-Trim-Install-Like/dp/1612331807

When you cut angles, keep in mind the room is not perfectly square so
you have to compensate for some angles. Make plenty of test cuts on
small crown pieces -- recommended you buy 10% more crown than you need
because you will make mistakes. BTDT




Thanks, when I picked up the molding, the guy at the lumber yard also
said that was one way to do it. I'm going to skip that step though as it
will be just one more thing to screw up.

I should be able to handle this OK but if it looks like it's not turning
out well, I'll have a friend who's a perfectionist do it...and pay him.

On 08/14/2015 08:39 AM, Mayayana wrote:
As Terry said, glue just makes a mess.

Thanks , will skip the glue
And what
if you need to take the molding down later without
replacing the wallpaper? You want 4F or 6F nails,
depending on the size of the molding and what's in
the wall. (You also need to find wood in the ceiling.)

Yep, I will nail it to the studs...as I found most of them.
Just found it odd that the on-line tutorial just showed them nailing it
to the drywall...seemed like a bad idea.


You say crown molding. Do you really mean the
45 degree stuff?

yes

That's tricky at the joints. You'll
need a good miter saw.

Not going to miter it, just cut it off straight and use corner blocks

Hopefully you're using wood
Yes...pine

easy to get a nail through

and not the oversized plastic crap, which will always
look like oversized plastic crap, unfortunately. (I've
seen foam crown molding as big as about 16" high.
Like putting a giant BMW logo on a Yugo, it tries to
express classiness but only makes matters worse.)

If you
are using wood and plan to paint it, I'd suggest primer
and a first coat before you put it up.

Yep will be painted first, easy top touch up later.

Then fill the
nailholes with lightweight spackle, spot prime, and do
a finish coat. Otherwise you'll be faced with trying to
paint that tiny underside right up to the wallpaper,
without getting any on the wallpaper.

On 8/14/2015 11:12 AM, philo wrote:
On 08/14/2015 08:36 AM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 07:31:47 -0500, philo wrote:

Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.


Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.


Looked on line at the tutorials and they just show a guy with a brad gun
putting them in staggered about a foot apart.


There is no mention of studs.

Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.


My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...


I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.


The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.


You can use some triangular 2X4 block behind the crown in places for
support - nailed to the top plate with a 3.5" finish nail.

Sample:

http://www.myoldworkshop.com/trim/crown-molding-installation-tips/

When I installed my first crown I found this book to be of great help.

http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Molding-Trim-Install-Like/dp/1612331807

When you cut angles, keep in mind the room is not perfectly square so
you have to compensate for some angles. Make plenty of test cuts on
small crown pieces -- recommended you buy 10% more crown than you need
because you will make mistakes. BTDT




Thanks, when I picked up the molding, the guy at the lumber yard also
said that was one way to do it. I'm going to skip that step though as it
will be just one more thing to screw up.

I should be able to handle this OK but if it looks like it's not turning
out well, I'll have a friend who's a perfectionist do it...and pay him.

My first shot at crown molding was funny as I figured two walls were the
same size and cut two identical pieces to find one wall was an inch or
two longer than the other.

As for nailing, if you put finishing nails into wall and ceiling corner,
won't you hit the board that crowns the studs?

On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 12:15:24 -0400, Frank "frank
wrote:

My first shot at crown molding was funny as I figured two walls were the
same size and cut two identical pieces to find one wall was an inch or
two longer than the other.

"I cut the board three times and it's still to short"

On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 10:15:13 -0500, philo wrote:

Yep, I will nail it to the studs...as I found most of them.

Just a note. Many walls studs are not exactly vertical plumb.

Nailing the crown can look wavy. This can be adjusted by using thin
dense cardboard shims or by pre-drilling the nail hole, using a finish
nail and a nail set punch to sink the nail easily to reduce the wavy
look.

Are you going to use a brad nailer or finish nails?

On 08/14/2015 11:15 AM, Frank wrote:




Thanks, when I picked up the molding, the guy at the lumber yard also
said that was one way to do it. I'm going to skip that step though as it
will be just one more thing to screw up.

I should be able to handle this OK but if it looks like it's not turning
out well, I'll have a friend who's a perfectionist do it...and pay him.

My first shot at crown molding was funny as I figured two walls were the
same size and cut two identical pieces to find one wall was an inch or
two longer than the other.

As for nailing, if you put finishing nails into wall and ceiling corner,
won't you hit the board that crowns the studs?



House was built in 1898 and I am going to exactly measure each wall
before I cut...there is up to a 1/2" difference.


As to the corners I am going to put a block there, I'll have to poke
some test holes to see where something solid is.

On 08/14/2015 11:19 AM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 12:15:24 -0400, Frank "frank
wrote:

My first shot at crown molding was funny as I figured two walls were the
same size and cut two identical pieces to find one wall was an inch or
two longer than the other.

"I cut the board three times and it's still to short"




Flip your saw upside down and cut it longer....

On 08/14/2015 12:03 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 10:15:13 -0500, philo wrote:

Yep, I will nail it to the studs...as I found most of them.

Just a note. Many walls studs are not exactly vertical plumb.

Nailing the crown can look wavy. This can be adjusted by using thin
dense cardboard shims or by pre-drilling the nail hole, using a finish
nail and a nail set punch to sink the nail easily to reduce the wavy
look.

Are you going to use a brad nailer or finish nails?




Nothing in this 1898 house is even...as long as things are close, it
will be fine.

I'm just going to use finishing nails (probably 2") and put them in by
hand...I can't justify a brad gun for this small of a job.

Don't have one and I'd have to buy or rent.

On 8/14/2015 12:19 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 14 Aug 2015 12:15:24 -0400, Frank "frank
wrote:

My first shot at crown molding was funny as I figured two walls were the
same size and cut two identical pieces to find one wall was an inch or
two longer than the other.

"I cut the board three times and it's still to short"


I measured once and cut twice

After dealing with suppliers who did not have corner blocks in stock I
said "screw it " and made my own.

Got them in and had a lot of things to do today so only got one (of
four) pieces of crown molding up. Considering that nothing is square in
this 117 year old house it turned out pretty well...some small gaps near
the ceiling which I will caulk and paint.

Passed the "wife" test so I'm OK.

On Sat, 15 Aug 2015 19:24:55 -0500, philo wrote:

Considering that nothing is square in
this 117 year old house it turned out pretty well...some small gaps near
the ceiling which I will caulk and paint.

I used Acrylic latex caulk for small gaps. It remains flexible and
easy to paint.

On 08/16/2015 09:55 AM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2015 19:24:55 -0500, philo wrote:

Considering that nothing is square in
this 117 year old house it turned out pretty well...some small gaps near
the ceiling which I will caulk and paint.

I used Acrylic latex caulk for small gaps. It remains flexible and
easy to paint.




Thank you for the advice, that's what I'll get.

Once the gaps are filled and painted the imperfections will be
essentially unseen.


Not going to finish the job today as she now decided she wanted the
microwave in an entirely different location so I have added yet another
electrical outlet.

She's been cleaning the oven inside and out all day now.


Once every ten years, a thorough cleaning should not hurt

On Sun, 16 Aug 2015 13:46:45 -0500, philo wrote:

On 08/16/2015 09:55 AM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2015 19:24:55 -0500, philo wrote:

Considering that nothing is square in
this 117 year old house it turned out pretty well...some small gaps near
the ceiling which I will caulk and paint.

I used Acrylic latex caulk for small gaps. It remains flexible and
easy to paint.




Thank you for the advice, that's what I'll get.

Once the gaps are filled and painted the imperfections will be
essentially unseen.


Correct. Even when baseboard trim is used at the floor, it makes the
uneven / non-level floor look good. White Acrylic latex caulk it the
simple solution. In my cases.

Not going to finish the job today as she now decided she wanted the
microwave in an entirely different location so I have added yet another
electrical outlet.

She's been cleaning the oven inside and out all day now.


Once every ten years, a thorough cleaning should not hurt

Never interfere when a wife cleans an oven

On 08/16/2015 02:06 PM, Oren wrote:

Once the gaps are filled and painted the imperfections will be
essentially unseen.


Correct. Even when baseboard trim is used at the floor, it makes the
uneven / non-level floor look good. White Acrylic latex caulk it the
simple solution. In my cases.

Not going to finish the job today as she now decided she wanted the
microwave in an entirely different location so I have added yet another
electrical outlet.

She's been cleaning the oven inside and out all day now.


Once every ten years, a thorough cleaning should not hurt

Never interfere when a wife cleans an oven




I was quite surprised and stayed away out of the kitchen...

she must have spent six hours cleaning!

philo posted for all of us...



On 08/16/2015 02:06 PM, Oren wrote:

Once the gaps are filled and painted the imperfections will be
essentially unseen.


Correct. Even when baseboard trim is used at the floor, it makes the
uneven / non-level floor look good. White Acrylic latex caulk it the
simple solution. In my cases.

Not going to finish the job today as she now decided she wanted the
microwave in an entirely different location so I have added yet another
electrical outlet.

She's been cleaning the oven inside and out all day now.


Once every ten years, a thorough cleaning should not hurt

Never interfere when a wife cleans an oven


Make sure she doesn't get any oven cleaner in her eyes!



I was quite surprised and stayed away out of the kitchen...

she must have spent six hours cleaning!

Do expect her to cook after the renovations?

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

On 08/17/2015 02:23 PM, Tekkie® wrote:



Make sure she doesn't get any oven cleaner in her eyes!


She wore glasses



I was quite surprised and stayed away out of the kitchen...

she must have spent six hours cleaning!

Do expect her to cook after the renovations?




Yep, she will go back to cooking but I joked around that we should not
use the oven any more and just order-out.


Anyway we got the crown molding up today and it went without a hitch,
will seal the small gaps with caulk probably tomorrow.

philo posted for all of us...



On 08/17/2015 02:23 PM, Tekkie® wrote:



Make sure she doesn't get any oven cleaner in her eyes!


She wore glasses



I was quite surprised and stayed away out of the kitchen...

she must have spent six hours cleaning!

Do expect her to cook after the renovations?




Yep, she will go back to cooking but I joked around that we should not
use the oven any more and just order-out.


Anyway we got the crown molding up today and it went without a hitch,
will seal the small gaps with caulk probably tomorrow.

Thanks for the progress reports. It is almost as if I am doing some work...

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

On 08/18/2015 01:38 PM, Tekkie® wrote:

Yep, she will go back to cooking but I joked around that we should not
use the oven any more and just order-out.


Anyway we got the crown molding up today and it went without a hitch,
will seal the small gaps with caulk probably tomorrow.

Thanks for the progress reports. It is almost as if I am doing some work...




Here it is:


wiring done

wallpapering done

disassembling and painting cabinets

Lighting mostly done

crown molding installed

sink/counter top installed


Remaining:

reinstalling trim, will be painted while off. then touched up as needed.

reassembling cabinets

adding one add'l light

thoroughly cleaning floor



Because my wife and I are doing a ton of work ourselves, our bathroom,
hall and kitchen remodeling project will be costing us approx $3500.


I'm sure it would easily have been twice as much (or more) if we had
contracted everything out.