Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I would
turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are all on the
same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down and start up
instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the bathroom light
(same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a loose breaker, I turned off
then back on the breaker. Upon restarting my computer, the entire power
within that circuit went out and this time, never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured. I
reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no power.
The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the entire house.
The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit, but I am running an
extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but uncertain
and where.

Thanks

Hi,
Hi,

Meanie wrote:
Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I
would turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are
all on the same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down and
start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the
bathroom light (same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a loose
breaker, I turned off then back on the breaker. Upon restarting my
computer, the entire power within that circuit went out and this time,
never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured.
I reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no
power. The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the
entire house. The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit,
but I am running an extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but
uncertain and where.

Thanks
Hi,
First of all, have you removed every thing on the circuit and start
plugging in one device at a time to narrow down the problem?

I'd suggest next, to remove and replace the breaker several times. On and
off the bus bar. I've seen cases where the bus bar gets a bit of corrosion,
where the breaker snaps on.

Please let us know what you find.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Meanie" wrote in message ...
Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I would
turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are all on the
same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down and start up
instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the bathroom light
(same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a loose breaker, I turned off
then back on the breaker. Upon restarting my computer, the entire power
within that circuit went out and this time, never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured. I
reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no power.
The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the entire house.
The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit, but I am running an
extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but uncertain
and where.

Thanks

Dear Tony,
Dear Tony,
Sounds like the entire circuit is not working properly.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
Hi,
Hi,

Meanie wrote:
Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I
would turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are
all on the same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down and
start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the
bathroom light (same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a loose
breaker, I turned off then back on the breaker. Upon restarting my
computer, the entire power within that circuit went out and this time,
never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured.
I reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no
power. The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the
entire house. The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit,
but I am running an extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but
uncertain and where.

Thanks
Hi,
First of all, have you removed every thing on the circuit and start
plugging in one device at a time to narrow down the problem?

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 17:50:50 -0500, "Meanie" wrote:




I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured. I
reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no power.
The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the entire house.
The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit, but I am running an
extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but uncertain
and where.

Thanks

It may be a break at a connection. Do you know what is on that
circuit? If it is a series of connections, I'd start at the first one
and work along. You may have the wires feeding a receptacle, then
they go from that receptacle to another. If the first receptacle went
bad or connection came loose, everything down line is out.

Also, are there any GFCI on the line? if so, check that first.

Tony Hwang wrote:

Hi,
Hi,

Meanie wrote:
Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I
would turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are
all on the same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down and
start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the
bathroom light (same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a loose
breaker, I turned off then back on the breaker. Upon restarting my
computer, the entire power within that circuit went out and this time,
never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured.
I reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no
power. The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the
entire house. The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit,
but I am running an extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but
uncertain and where.

Thanks
Hi,
First of all, have you removed every thing on the circuit and start
plugging in one device at a time to narrow down the problem?

Sounds fairly typical of a failing push-wire connection at a receptacle.
Best to at a minimum remove each device and change it from push-wire
connections to screw terminal connections. If the current devices are
$0.50 specials, I'd recommend buying the bulk packs of the "spec grade"
or "commercial grade" receptacles that run ~$2 and replace the devices
as well, again using the screw terminals or the screw clamp option on
some of the better devices. The push-wire connections are nothing but
trouble.

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 15:59:37 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Everything on that circuit would shut down and
start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the
bathroom light (same circuit).

Is there a GFCI in the circuit related to the bathroom...

My wife can knock out power to the man cave with her hair dryer
(another story for later)

"Meanie" wrote:
Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I
would turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are
all on the same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down and
start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the
bathroom light (same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a loose
breaker, I turned off then back on the breaker. Upon restarting my
computer, the entire power within that circuit went out and this time, never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured. I
reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no
power. The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the
entire house. The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit,
but I am running an extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but uncertain and where.

Thanks

One more test that I would try is to swap the wires at the suspect breaker
with another breaker. The breaker may test good with no load on it but fail
once current starts flowing. I recently had intermittent flickering of all
the lights on one circuit. I swapped the hots between breakers and the
flickering moved to the other circuit. The bad breaker tested good, but
obviously wasn't.

Since you are obviously comfortable around the breaker panel, it couldn't
hurt to swap a couple of wires.

On 1/12/2013 5:50 PM, Meanie wrote:
Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I
would turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are
all on the same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down
and start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on
the bathroom light (same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a
loose breaker, I turned off then back on the breaker. Upon restarting
my computer, the entire power within that circuit went out and this
time, never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem
is elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were
secured. I reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and
still no power. The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and
not the entire house. The bad news is my router and modem are on that
circuit, but I am running an extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but
uncertain and where.

Thanks
OK, you have an open somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would
do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The
second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that
circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I
would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit
at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the
chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by
plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on
all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one,
and it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection
there. Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as well.

"Pete C." wrote in message ...


Tony Hwang wrote:

Hi,
Hi,


Sounds fairly typical of a failing push-wire connection at a receptacle.
Best to at a minimum remove each device and change it from push-wire
connections to screw terminal connections. If the current devices are
$0.50 specials, I'd recommend buying the bulk packs of the "spec grade"
or "commercial grade" receptacles that run ~$2 and replace the devices
as well, again using the screw terminals or the screw clamp option on
some of the better devices. The push-wire connections are nothing but
trouble.


I'm uncertain of the outlet and switch grade since they were the originals
ones when I bought the house. Though I will be checking each individual
connection today.

"Oren" wrote in message ...

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 15:59:37 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Everything on that circuit would shut down and
start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the
bathroom light (same circuit).

Is there a GFCI in the circuit related to the bathroom...

My wife can knock out power to the man cave with her hair dryer
(another story for later)

__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
No GFCI on this circuit. The GFCI in the bathroom is on another circuit.
Only the bathroom light is on the power loss circuit.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...

I'd suggest next, to remove and replace the breaker several times. On and
off the bus bar. I've seen cases where the bus bar gets a bit of corrosion,
where the breaker snaps on.

Please let us know what you find.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Will add that to my troubleshooting list.

Thanks

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...



It may be a break at a connection. Do you know what is on that
circuit? If it is a series of connections, I'd start at the first one
and work along. You may have the wires feeding a receptacle, then
they go from that receptacle to another. If the first receptacle went
bad or connection came loose, everything down line is out.

Also, are there any GFCI on the line? if so, check that first.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Years ago, I made a diagram of my home's electrical connections
corresponding with it's breaker/circuit. Unfortunately, I am unaware of the
flow of the circuits. I plan to check every outlet and switch on that
circuit to determine loose or back stabbed connection and repair. There
isn't a GFCI on this circuit.

Thanks

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

"

One more test that I would try is to swap the wires at the suspect breaker
with another breaker. The breaker may test good with no load on it but fail
once current starts flowing. I recently had intermittent flickering of all
the lights on one circuit. I swapped the hots between breakers and the
flickering moved to the other circuit. The bad breaker tested good, but
obviously wasn't.

Since you are obviously comfortable around the breaker panel, it couldn't
hurt to swap a couple of wires.

================================================== ===============================

Good idea. I'll add that to the troubleshooting list.

Thanks

"RBM" wrote in message ...

OK, you have an open somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would
do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The
second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that
circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I
would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit
at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the
chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by
plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on
all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one,
and it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection
there. Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as well.

================================================== ===================================

ALL outlets and switches are dead with breaker on. No outside outlets are on
this circuit. I like the suggestions. Will add to the list and troubleshoot.

Thanks

On Jan 13, 9:28*am, "Meanie" wrote:
"RBM" *wrote in ...

OK, you have an open *somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would
do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The
second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that
circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I
would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit
at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the
chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by
plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on
all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one,
and it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection
there. Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as well.

================================================== =========================*==========

ALL outlets and switches are dead with breaker on. No outside outlets are on
this circuit. I like the suggestions. Will add to the list and troubleshoot.

Thanks

By dead with the breaker on, do you mean that you're
reading 120V at the breaker wire and you've at the
same time reading that you don't have 120V between
either hot and neutral or hot and ground at any of the
switches and outlets?

In article ,
says...

Tony Hwang wrote:

Hi,
Hi,

Meanie wrote:
Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I
would turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are
all on the same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down and
start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the
bathroom light (same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a loose
breaker, I turned off then back on the breaker. Upon restarting my
computer, the entire power within that circuit went out and this time,
never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured.
I reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no
power. The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the
entire house. The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit,
but I am running an extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but
uncertain and where.

Thanks
Hi,
First of all, have you removed every thing on the circuit and start
plugging in one device at a time to narrow down the problem?

Sounds fairly typical of a failing push-wire connection at a receptacle.
Best to at a minimum remove each device and change it from push-wire
connections to screw terminal connections. If the current devices are
$0.50 specials, I'd recommend buying the bulk packs of the "spec grade"
or "commercial grade" receptacles that run ~$2 and replace the devices
as well, again using the screw terminals or the screw clamp option on
some of the better devices. The push-wire connections are nothing but
trouble.

What he said ^^^^

On 1/13/2013 9:28 AM, Meanie wrote:



"RBM" wrote in message ...

OK, you have an open somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would
do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The
second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that
circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I
would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit
at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the
chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by
plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on
all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one,
and it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection
there. Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as
well.

================================================== ===================================


ALL outlets and switches are dead with breaker on. No outside outlets
are on this circuit. I like the suggestions. Will add to the list and
troubleshoot.

Thanks
How many lights and receptacles are on this circuit?
What type of rooms are they in?, bedroom, bathroom, hall, etc.
When was the house built?

Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I
would turn on a light switch or my cable box or my computer, which are
all on the same circuit. Everything on that circuit would shut down and
start up instantly. Today, it did it again when the wife turned on the
bathroom light (same circuit). Therefore, thinking it may be a loose
breaker, I turned off then back on the breaker. Upon restarting my
computer, the entire power within that circuit went out and this time,
never came back on.

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed,
turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is
elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured. I
reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no
power. The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the
entire house. The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit,
but I am running an extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but
uncertain and where.

Thanks
OK, you have an open somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would
do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The
second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that
circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I
would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit
at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the
chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by
plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on
all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one, and
it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection there.
Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as well.


*I agree with RBM. You need to open up electrical outlets and see what is
going on. You should also look into the wall switches if you don't find the
problem in an outlet. There could be a loose splice in the switchbox.

On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:15:41 -0500, "Meanie" wrote:



"Pete C." wrote in message ...


Tony Hwang wrote:

Hi,
Hi,


Sounds fairly typical of a failing push-wire connection at a receptacle.
Best to at a minimum remove each device and change it from push-wire
connections to screw terminal connections. If the current devices are
$0.50 specials, I'd recommend buying the bulk packs of the "spec grade"
or "commercial grade" receptacles that run ~$2 and replace the devices
as well, again using the screw terminals or the screw clamp option on
some of the better devices. The push-wire connections are nothing but
trouble.


I'm uncertain of the outlet and switch grade since they were the originals
ones when I bought the house. Though I will be checking each individual
connection today.

Better yet, get the type with the back wire clamps. They'll connect
the same way (so you won't have to restrip and refold the wire in the
box) as the "back-stab" outlets you probably already have, but have a
screw clamp, rather than a flimsy metal knife-edge to hold the wire.
They don't cost any more ($20 for ten) than the normal screw-type
outlets and are far easier to work with.

Better yet, get the type with the back wire clamps. They'll connect
the same way (so you won't have to restrip and refold the wire in the
box) as the "back-stab" outlets you probably already have, but have a
screw clamp, rather than a flimsy metal knife-edge to hold the wire.
They don't cost any more ($20 for ten) than the normal screw-type
outlets and are far easier to work with.

================================================== =======================================
Upon checking all outlets and switches, I discovered they are all screw
clamp and all secure. None are back stab outlets/switches. Two of them even
had old orange price tags on them and they both read $6.49. Therefore, I can
assume they are decent quality.

On Jan 13, 2:01*pm, "Meanie" wrote:
Better yet, get the type with the back wire clamps. *They'll connect
the same way (so you won't have to restrip and refold the wire in the
box) as the "back-stab" outlets you probably already have, but have a
screw clamp, rather than a flimsy metal knife-edge to hold the wire.
They don't cost any more ($20 for ten) than the normal screw-type
outlets and are far easier to work with.

================================================== =========================*==============
Upon checking all outlets and switches, I discovered they are all screw
clamp and all secure. None are back stab outlets/switches. Two of them even
had old orange price tags on them and they both read $6.49. Therefore, I can
assume they are decent quality.

And with 120V measured on the wire at the breaker, you are
not measuring 120V at any of them? No 120V between hot
and neutral or hot and ground? If that is the case, either there
is another switch or outlet that you aren't aware of, or else
there is another junction somewhere in just a box. Or
I guess the cable could be broken somewhere, somehow.
You can also try to follow the cable, try to figure out how
it gets from panel to the switches, etc, but that may or
may not be easy.

wrote in message
...


By dead with the breaker on, do you mean that you're
reading 120V at the breaker wire and you've at the
same time reading that you don't have 120V between
either hot and neutral or hot and ground at any of the
switches and outlets?

================================================== =====================================
Originally, by dead, I meant the breaker was on but all outlets/switches
were dead. I didn't use the tester to confirm that because things were
plugged in but not on and the hall switch and bathroom switch have the inner
light which can be seen when it's off. They were both off and I assumed
there wasn't power.

BUT NOW.......I turned the breaker on and those inner lights in the switch
were on. I metered the outlets and read 115v on all. Thus, I turned on the
hall switch and nothing. That inner glow light went flickering and upon
checking the outlets again, voltage was roughly 55 to 65v in the outlets. I
turned the breaker off then on again and the inner switch lights are aglow
and the outlets are reading 155v again. My conclusion is a bad neutral
SOMEWHERE which is triggered when I hit the light switch and/or was
triggered when I turned on an appliance (computer, tv, etc) when I had them
all plugged in.

I'm wondering if it can still be in an outlet or switch. If so, I am
considering the advice of purchasing a box and replacing all just for
process of elimination.

"RBM" wrote in message ...

On 1/13/2013 9:28 AM, Meanie wrote:



"RBM" wrote in message ...

OK, you have an open somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would
do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The
second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that
circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I
would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit
at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the
chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by
plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on
all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one,
and it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection
there. Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as
well.

================================================== ===================================

ALL outlets and switches are dead with breaker on. No outside outlets are
on this circuit. I like the suggestions. Will add to the list and
troubleshoot.

Thanks
How many lights and receptacles are on this circuit?
What type of rooms are they in?, bedroom, bathroom, hall, etc.
When was the house built?

================================================== =====================================
6 receptacles and 4 switches/lights.

Computer room/Office (spare bedroom) = 3 receptacles and 1 wall
switch/ceiling fan light
Spare bedroom = 2 receptacles and 1 wall switch/ceiling fan light.
Living room = 1 receptacle
Bathroom = Wall switch for lights
Hall = Wall switch for ceiling light

"Meanie" wrote:
wrote in message ...


By dead with the breaker on, do you mean that you're
reading 120V at the breaker wire and you've at the
same time reading that you don't have 120V between
either hot and neutral or hot and ground at any of the
switches and outlets?

================================================== =====================================
Originally, by dead, I meant the breaker was on but all outlets/switches
were dead. I didn't use the tester to confirm that because things were
plugged in but not on and the hall switch and bathroom switch have the
inner light which can be seen when it's off. They were both off and I
assumed there wasn't power.

BUT NOW.......I turned the breaker on and those inner lights in the
switch were on. I metered the outlets and read 115v on all. Thus, I
turned on the hall switch and nothing. That inner glow light went
flickering and upon checking the outlets again, voltage was roughly 55 to
65v in the outlets. I turned the breaker off then on again and the inner
switch lights are aglow and the outlets are reading 155v again. My
conclusion is a bad neutral SOMEWHERE which is triggered when I hit the
light switch and/or was triggered when I turned on an appliance
(computer, tv, etc) when I had them all plugged in.

I'm wondering if it can still be in an outlet or switch. If so, I am
considering the advice of purchasing a box and replacing all just for
process of elimination.

Have you swapped the hot to another breaker as I suggested? Intermittent
and changing symptoms like you are seeing could be a bad breaker.

The flickering problem that I mentioned in my other post was intermittent,
sometimes not happening for days, sometimes happening for 1 minute,
sometimes happening for hours. Swapping the hots between 2 breakers moved
the flickering to another circuit. Changing the breaker solved the problem.

On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 14:12:12 -0500, "Meanie" wrote:




I'm wondering if it can still be in an outlet or switch. If so, I am
considering the advice of purchasing a box and replacing all just for
process of elimination.


I'd start with the switch you first turned of and they all went out.

On 1/13/2013 2:17 PM, Meanie wrote:



"RBM" wrote in message ...

On 1/13/2013 9:28 AM, Meanie wrote:



"RBM" wrote in message ...

OK, you have an open somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would
do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The
second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that
circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I
would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit
at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the
chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by
plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on
all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one,
and it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection
there. Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as
well.

================================================== ===================================


ALL outlets and switches are dead with breaker on. No outside outlets
are on this circuit. I like the suggestions. Will add to the list and
troubleshoot.

Thanks
How many lights and receptacles are on this circuit?
What type of rooms are they in?, bedroom, bathroom, hall, etc.
When was the house built?

================================================== =====================================

6 receptacles and 4 switches/lights.

Computer room/Office (spare bedroom) = 3 receptacles and 1 wall
switch/ceiling fan light
Spare bedroom = 2 receptacles and 1 wall switch/ceiling fan light.
Living room = 1 receptacle
Bathroom = Wall switch for lights
Hall = Wall switch for ceiling light

You didn't give me the age of the house, but in another reply you
mentioned that the bathroom outlet was separate from the light circuit.
This leads me to believe you're in at least a 1980s house. Unless you
got a really cheesy electrician, it does sound like it is the entire
circuit that is dead. You didn't determine if it was the hot leg or the
neutral that is dead though. I would check the panel to see if this dead
circuit is part of a multiwire branch circuit. This is one where there
is a red hot wire and a black hot wire, that share a common neutral. If
it turns out that the neutral is open, and it's a multiwire circuit, I
would be looking for the junction box where the 3 wire cable splits into
two individual circuits. It will likely be in a live circuit adjacent to
the dead one.
It is also just as possible that the first outlet in the string,
possibly the one nearest to the breaker panel, has a bad connection.

On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 14:01:08 -0500, "Meanie" wrote:


Better yet, get the type with the back wire clamps. They'll connect
the same way (so you won't have to restrip and refold the wire in the
box) as the "back-stab" outlets you probably already have, but have a
screw clamp, rather than a flimsy metal knife-edge to hold the wire.
They don't cost any more ($20 for ten) than the normal screw-type
outlets and are far easier to work with.

================================================= ========================================
Upon checking all outlets and switches, I discovered they are all screw
clamp and all secure. None are back stab outlets/switches. Two of them even
had old orange price tags on them and they both read $6.49. Therefore, I can
assume they are decent quality.

Yikes. If they have price tags on them, they likely weren't put in by
the contractor so who knows what they are. Replace them with the $2
type from the BORG.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...


Have you swapped the hot to another breaker as I suggested? Intermittent
and changing symptoms like you are seeing could be a bad breaker.

The flickering problem that I mentioned in my other post was intermittent,
sometimes not happening for days, sometimes happening for 1 minute,
sometimes happening for hours. Swapping the hots between 2 breakers moved
the flickering to another circuit. Changing the breaker solved the problem.

I finally removed the hot from the next breaker below and connected with the
questionable breaker and everything worked. Therefore, I conclude the
breaker is fine.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 14:12:12 -0500, "Meanie" wrote:




I'm wondering if it can still be in an outlet or switch. If so, I am
considering the advice of purchasing a box and replacing all just for
process of elimination.


I'd start with the switch you first turned of and they all went out.

================================================== ========================

I was thinking the same because that switch appears to be closest to the
breaker box and may be the beginning of the run. Though, connections are all
intact on switch and in the fixture box, I wonder if it could be the switch
because all it's allowing is the hot to pass while the neutral is wire nut
connected.

I also put a volt meter to one outlet. The voltage started at 55 to 60 after
turning the breaker back on. I sat and watched while the voltage S L O W L Y
increased until it reached 117v.......weird. Then I removed the light from
each fixture one at a time and checked to see if there was voltage drop. No
luck on any light fixture which leads me to believe it may be an outlet.

"RBM" wrote in message ...


You didn't give me the age of the house, but in another reply you
mentioned that the bathroom outlet was separate from the light circuit.
This leads me to believe you're in at least a 1980s house. Unless you
got a really cheesy electrician, it does sound like it is the entire
circuit that is dead. You didn't determine if it was the hot leg or the
neutral that is dead though. I would check the panel to see if this dead
circuit is part of a multiwire branch circuit. This is one where there
is a red hot wire and a black hot wire, that share a common neutral. If
it turns out that the neutral is open, and it's a multiwire circuit, I
would be looking for the junction box where the 3 wire cable splits into
two individual circuits. It will likely be in a live circuit adjacent to
the dead one.
It is also just as possible that the first outlet in the string,
possibly the one nearest to the breaker panel, has a bad connection.

================================================== ===================================

Sorry, I forgot to list the age.

The house is a bungalow and was built in 1949.

The only wire connected to the breaker is a black wire.

I stated in another reply I think I'll just replace all outlets for process
of elimination and peace of mind for future issues. I will be picking up the
outlet tomorrow.

"Meanie" wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message ...


You didn't give me the age of the house, but in another reply you
mentioned that the bathroom outlet was separate from the light circuit.
This leads me to believe you're in at least a 1980s house. Unless you
got a really cheesy electrician, it does sound like it is the entire
circuit that is dead. You didn't determine if it was the hot leg or the
neutral that is dead though. I would check the panel to see if this dead
circuit is part of a multiwire branch circuit. This is one where there
is a red hot wire and a black hot wire, that share a common neutral. If
it turns out that the neutral is open, and it's a multiwire circuit, I
would be looking for the junction box where the 3 wire cable splits into
two individual circuits. It will likely be in a live circuit adjacent to
the dead one.
It is also just as possible that the first outlet in the string,
possibly the one nearest to the breaker panel, has a bad connection.

================================================== ===================================

Sorry, I forgot to list the age.

The house is a bungalow and was built in 1949.

The only wire connected to the breaker is a black wire.

I stated in another reply I think I'll just replace all outlets for
process of elimination and peace of mind for future issues. I will be
picking up the outlet tomorrow.

Your basic 120V 15 amp non-GFCI breaker will always have just one wire
connected to it.

However, that doesn't mean that the circuit isn't part of a multi-wire
circuit. If it is, there will be a red wire going to a different breaker.
The way to tell is to follow the black wire from the breaker to where it
leaves the panel. As it goes into it's outer casing, you'll either find
just a white neutral or a red wire and a white neutral. If there's a red
wire along with the black and white, then the circuit is a multi wire
branch circuit, also known as an Edison circuit.

In a multi-wire branch circuit, the hots for 2 circuits will be the black
and the red wires and they will share a neutral up to some junction box
someplace where they'll split into separate circuits, each with it's own
neutral. The theory is that it was cheaper to run one 3 wire cable instead
of two 2 wire cables.

They are a pain in the butt.