I have a 20-year old Frigidaire through the wall air conditioner.

When first turned on it does a great cooling job. A digital
thermometer right at the outlet is showing 40°F.

After three to five minutes, the compressor turns off and the cooling
stops.

After maybe 5 minutes the compressor comes back on and cools for
another 3 to 5 minutes.

I took the unit outdoors and cleaned the fins with a garden hose and a
fin-cleaning aerosol spray. It is difficult to view the fins
visually, but I'm fairly sure they are clean. The cleaning did not
seem to change the cycling time at all.

I'm in a small town and it is a heat wave. It is difficult to get a
repair person in the best of times---and I'd rather save the money and
repair it myself if it is something I can handle.

How do I troubleshoot from this point?

"Bob" wrote in message
...
I have a 20-year old Frigidaire through the wall air conditioner.

When first turned on it does a great cooling job. A digital
thermometer right at the outlet is showing 40°F.

After three to five minutes, the compressor turns off and the cooling
stops.

After maybe 5 minutes the compressor comes back on and cools for
another 3 to 5 minutes.

I took the unit outdoors and cleaned the fins with a garden hose and a
fin-cleaning aerosol spray. It is difficult to view the fins
visually, but I'm fairly sure they are clean. The cleaning did not
seem to change the cycling time at all.

I'm in a small town and it is a heat wave. It is difficult to get a
repair person in the best of times---and I'd rather save the money and
repair it myself if it is something I can handle.

How do I troubleshoot from this point?

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I'd call a HVAC company and get on the waiting list. This heat wave is
brutal.

20 years old?

I'd do the fin cleaning routine, again. That's my best
diagnosis, from here.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob" wrote in message
...
I have a 20-year old Frigidaire through the wall air
conditioner.

When first turned on it does a great cooling job. A digital
thermometer right at the outlet is showing 40°F.

After three to five minutes, the compressor turns off and
the cooling
stops.

After maybe 5 minutes the compressor comes back on and cools
for
another 3 to 5 minutes.

I took the unit outdoors and cleaned the fins with a garden
hose and a
fin-cleaning aerosol spray. It is difficult to view the
fins
visually, but I'm fairly sure they are clean. The cleaning
did not
seem to change the cycling time at all.

I'm in a small town and it is a heat wave. It is difficult
to get a
repair person in the best of times---and I'd rather save the
money and
repair it myself if it is something I can handle.

How do I troubleshoot from this point?

Bad thermostat ( short cycling)
Low on refrigerant (cycling on a low pressure switch)
Dirty or bad condenser motor (cycling on a high pressure switch)

All 3 are easy to troubleshoot if you have any knowledge of basic
electricity. Just find the appropriate terminals and wire the control out.

In this heat wave and your 3 to 5 minute cycle I am betting on the
thermostat.


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I'd do the fin cleaning routine, again. That's my best
diagnosis, from here.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Bob" wrote in message
...
I have a 20-year old Frigidaire through the wall air
conditioner.

When first turned on it does a great cooling job. A digital
thermometer right at the outlet is showing 40°F.

After three to five minutes, the compressor turns off and
the cooling
stops.

After maybe 5 minutes the compressor comes back on and cools
for
another 3 to 5 minutes.

I took the unit outdoors and cleaned the fins with a garden
hose and a
fin-cleaning aerosol spray. It is difficult to view the
fins
visually, but I'm fairly sure they are clean. The cleaning
did not
seem to change the cycling time at all.

I'm in a small town and it is a heat wave. It is difficult
to get a
repair person in the best of times---and I'd rather save the
money and
repair it myself if it is something I can handle.

How do I troubleshoot from this point?

Bob wrote:
I have a 20-year old Frigidaire through the wall air conditioner.

When first turned on it does a great cooling job. A digital
thermometer right at the outlet is showing 40°F.

After three to five minutes, the compressor turns off and the cooling
stops.

After maybe 5 minutes the compressor comes back on and cools for
another 3 to 5 minutes.

I took the unit outdoors and cleaned the fins with a garden hose and a
fin-cleaning aerosol spray. It is difficult to view the fins
visually, but I'm fairly sure they are clean. The cleaning did not
seem to change the cycling time at all.

I'm in a small town and it is a heat wave. It is difficult to get a
repair person in the best of times---and I'd rather save the money and
repair it myself if it is something I can handle.

How do I troubleshoot from this point?

Sometimes the overload relay on the compressor will
become overly sensitive due to corrosion and or
erosion of the contacts which will create a resistance
which in turn will create heat which will case the
overload relay to click open. When the AC starts and
stops, do you hear a "click"? If so, that would be the
overload on the compressor. It should be easy to replace.
You have to check the supply voltage because that's
another thing that, if low, can trip the overload.

TDD

Bob wrote:

I have a 20-year old Frigidaire through the wall air conditioner.

When first turned on it does a great cooling job. A digital
thermometer right at the outlet is showing 40°F.

After three to five minutes, the compressor turns off and the cooling
stops.

After maybe 5 minutes the compressor comes back on and cools for
another 3 to 5 minutes.

I took the unit outdoors and cleaned the fins with a garden hose and a
fin-cleaning aerosol spray. It is difficult to view the fins
visually, but I'm fairly sure they are clean. The cleaning did not
seem to change the cycling time at all.

I'm in a small town and it is a heat wave. It is difficult to get a
repair person in the best of times---and I'd rather save the money and
repair it myself if it is something I can handle.

How do I troubleshoot from this point?

I'm with Ed. You should be able to get a new unit that will pay for
itself fairly quickly in energy savings compared to a 20 year old
unit.

On Jun 27, 1:37*pm, Bob wrote:
I have a 20-year old Frigidaire through the wall air conditioner.

When first turned on it does a great cooling job. *A digital
thermometer right at the outlet is showing 40°F.

After three to five minutes, the compressor turns off and the cooling
stops.

After maybe 5 minutes the compressor comes back on and cools for
another 3 to 5 minutes.

I took the unit outdoors and cleaned the fins with a garden hose and a
fin-cleaning aerosol spray. *It is difficult to view the fins
visually, but I'm fairly sure they are clean. *The cleaning did not
seem to change the cycling time at all.

I'm in a small town and it is a heat wave. *It is difficult to get a
repair person in the best of times---and I'd rather save the money and
repair it myself if it is something I can handle.

How do I troubleshoot from this point?

Youve done all you can as a homeowner . Its time to call for a
professional diagnosis..but i wouldnt dump alot of money into it. 20
years is over the average life expectancy...and especially if you live
in a southern state.

Tomorrow is my day to work on this again.

As to the 20 years.....this unit has actually been used very little,
and has been well protected during the off season.

Here's why I'm reluctant to just dump this air conditioner and buy
something else (aside from being short on cash): when the air
conditioner is turned on, it is quiet and smooth and cools the output
air to 40° F immediately. To me that seems like all the internal
parts are doing their jobs well and something external (like a control
or heat exchanger) is causing the cycling. If it is low on
refrigerant would it cool to 40° so quickly? Same with dirty or bad
condenser motor?

I could see the thermostat being the problem or the fins are still not
clean enough.

Is my logic correct? Is getting to 40° quickly really telling me that
certain parts are OK?

Incidently, the parts drawings for this unit are still on the web at:
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedMo...Num=&fkMfgID=4

It was 102° here today and forecast hotter tomorrow.

B.

Looking at the wiring parts list that you provided, i see no mention of hi
or low pressure refrigerant cutoffs. If the motor continues to run and it is
the compressor kicking off, the problem is going to be the thermostat or as
pointed out by another user, an external overload under the compressor cap.
If the entire unit is kicking out, that is, the fan and the compressor, you
could have a faulty thermostat or selector switch.
Without being there, this is the best I can do for you. 40 seems a bit cool
but is possible. You stated that you removed the unit and cleaned the coils.
I assume you cleaned both the evaporator and condenser coils. Also make sure
the filter is clean.
As stated in my previous post, my bet is on the thermostat.



"Bob" wrote in message
...
Tomorrow is my day to work on this again.

As to the 20 years.....this unit has actually been used very little,
and has been well protected during the off season.

Here's why I'm reluctant to just dump this air conditioner and buy
something else (aside from being short on cash): when the air
conditioner is turned on, it is quiet and smooth and cools the output
air to 40° F immediately. To me that seems like all the internal
parts are doing their jobs well and something external (like a control
or heat exchanger) is causing the cycling. If it is low on
refrigerant would it cool to 40° so quickly? Same with dirty or bad
condenser motor?

I could see the thermostat being the problem or the fins are still not
clean enough.

Is my logic correct? Is getting to 40° quickly really telling me that
certain parts are OK?

Incidently, the parts drawings for this unit are still on the web at:
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedMo...Num=&fkMfgID=4

It was 102° here today and forecast hotter tomorrow.

B.

Please take the cover off the unit. And clean the condensor
(the hot radiator in the back). Inside and out. You may need
somthing like a tooth brush to get the inside surface of the
coil. Use detergent and hot water. Rinse well, with a water
hose. Reassemble.

Low charge can cause lower temps. But, the quick cold action
suggests the compressor is doing its job.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob" wrote in message
...
Tomorrow is my day to work on this again.

As to the 20 years.....this unit has actually been used very
little,
and has been well protected during the off season.

Here's why I'm reluctant to just dump this air conditioner
and buy
something else (aside from being short on cash): when the
air
conditioner is turned on, it is quiet and smooth and cools
the output
air to 40° F immediately. To me that seems like all the
internal
parts are doing their jobs well and something external (like
a control
or heat exchanger) is causing the cycling. If it is low on
refrigerant would it cool to 40° so quickly? Same with
dirty or bad
condenser motor?

I could see the thermostat being the problem or the fins are
still not
clean enough.

Is my logic correct? Is getting to 40° quickly really
telling me that
certain parts are OK?

Incidently, the parts drawings for this unit are still on
the web at:
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedMo...Num=&fkMfgID=4

It was 102° here today and forecast hotter tomorrow.

B.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Please take the cover off the unit. And clean the condensor
(the hot radiator in the back). Inside and out. You may need
somthing like a tooth brush to get the inside surface of the
coil. Use detergent and hot water. Rinse well, with a water
hose. Reassemble.

Low charge can cause lower temps. But, the quick cold action
suggests the compressor is doing its job.


My suggestion of the overload was because of the age
of the window unit. If he cleans it and it still does
the same thing, it's probably the overload. A few months
ago, my friend and me cleaned an old unit he had in a
front room of his home. After cleaning, it was behaving
the same way as the OP's AC. It turned out to be the
overload relay under the connection cover of the comp.
I found a link that can explain it better on, of all
places, a coke machine page.

http://www.colamachines.com/howto/Cooling-Tips.htm

TDD

On Jun 27, 9:47*pm, "Big Bob" wrote:
Looking at the wiring parts list that you provided, i see no mention of hi
or low pressure refrigerant cutoffs. If the motor continues to run and it is
the compressor kicking off, the problem is going to be the thermostat or as
pointed out by another user, an external overload under the compressor cap.
If the entire unit is kicking out, that is, the fan and the compressor, you
could have a faulty thermostat or selector switch.
Without being there, this is the best I can do for you. *40 seems a bit cool
but is possible. You stated that you removed the unit and cleaned the coils.
I assume you cleaned both the evaporator and condenser coils. Also make sure
the filter is clean.
As stated in my previous post, my bet is on the thermostat.

"Bob" wrote in message

...
Tomorrow is my day to work on this again.

--------------------**********************-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


.......and here's what I found today........

I by-passed the thermostat and the cycling seems to have stopped.

I did look at the coils again, both by checking airflow and shining a
flashlight through the fins, and I'm pretty sure the coils are plenty
clean.


Next challenge:

I looked at Frigidare replacement parts and the thermostat is in the
$110 range----ouch!!!!! The Frigidare part # is G158995.

Looking further on-line I found a universal replacement thermostat for
about $35 at http://www.appliancepartsworldwide.c...spx?Id=1018989

Does anyone have any comments on using a universal part to save some
cash?

My air conditioner is 220 volt. Looking at the wiring diagram it
looks like the control circuits are also 220 volts, In the various
online parts catalogs I don't see any callouts for voltages for
thermostats. Am I missing something here?

B

Not only is the voltage important, so is the amp rating.
The specs for the part you propose a
Universal type window unit thermostat kit.

Range: Cold Off (52ºF) Warm On (93ºF)
Diff: 6ºF
Capillary: 18" End 1" Aircoil
SPST, F.L.A. 20A, L.R.A. 80A

I would go for it


"Bob" wrote in message
...
On Jun 27, 9:47 pm, "Big Bob" wrote:
Looking at the wiring parts list that you provided, i see no mention of hi
or low pressure refrigerant cutoffs. If the motor continues to run and it
is
the compressor kicking off, the problem is going to be the thermostat or
as
pointed out by another user, an external overload under the compressor
cap.
If the entire unit is kicking out, that is, the fan and the compressor,
you
could have a faulty thermostat or selector switch.
Without being there, this is the best I can do for you. 40 seems a bit
cool
but is possible. You stated that you removed the unit and cleaned the
coils.
I assume you cleaned both the evaporator and condenser coils. Also make
sure
the filter is clean.
As stated in my previous post, my bet is on the thermostat.

"Bob" wrote in message

...
Tomorrow is my day to work on this again.

--------------------**********************-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


.......and here's what I found today........

I by-passed the thermostat and the cycling seems to have stopped.

I did look at the coils again, both by checking airflow and shining a
flashlight through the fins, and I'm pretty sure the coils are plenty
clean.


Next challenge:

I looked at Frigidare replacement parts and the thermostat is in the
$110 range----ouch!!!!! The Frigidare part # is G158995.

Looking further on-line I found a universal replacement thermostat for
about $35 at
http://www.appliancepartsworldwide.c...spx?Id=1018989

Does anyone have any comments on using a universal part to save some
cash?

My air conditioner is 220 volt. Looking at the wiring diagram it
looks like the control circuits are also 220 volts, In the various
online parts catalogs I don't see any callouts for voltages for
thermostats. Am I missing something here?

B

Before you spend money. Try spacing the long tube (from the
thermostat) away from the evaporator. About 3/8 to 1/2 inch
or so. If the sensor tube is touching the cold coils, the
sensor may get cold before the air temp indoors is cold.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob" wrote in message
...

.......and here's what I found today........

I by-passed the thermostat and the cycling seems to have
stopped.

I did look at the coils again, both by checking airflow and
shining a
flashlight through the fins, and I'm pretty sure the coils
are plenty
clean.


Next challenge:

I looked at Frigidare replacement parts and the thermostat
is in the
$110 range----ouch!!!!! The Frigidare part # is G158995.

Looking further on-line I found a universal replacement
thermostat for
about $35 at
http://www.appliancepartsworldwide.c...spx?Id=1018989

Does anyone have any comments on using a universal part to
save some
cash?

My air conditioner is 220 volt. Looking at the wiring
diagram it
looks like the control circuits are also 220 volts, In the
various
online parts catalogs I don't see any callouts for voltages
for
thermostats. Am I missing something here?

B

That's a reasonable web page. Like the writer says, Klixons
mostly all look alike. When I think Klixon, I think start
relay, not overload. Oh, well.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...

My suggestion of the overload was because of the age
of the window unit. If he cleans it and it still does
the same thing, it's probably the overload. A few months
ago, my friend and me cleaned an old unit he had in a
front room of his home. After cleaning, it was behaving
the same way as the OP's AC. It turned out to be the
overload relay under the connection cover of the comp.
I found a link that can explain it better on, of all
places, a coke machine page.

http://www.colamachines.com/howto/Cooling-Tips.htm

TDD

On Sat, 27 Jun 2009 23:47:41 -0500, "Big Bob" wrote:

[snip]


It was 102° here today and forecast hotter tomorrow.

B.



It was 102° here (northeast Texas) yesterday. Now we're having a cold
wave, where temperatures are dropping to 97°.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

On Jun 28, 3:24*pm, "Big Bob" wrote:
Not only is the voltage important, so is the amp rating.
The specs for the part you propose a
Universal type window unit thermostat kit.

Range: Cold Off (52ºF) Warm On (93ºF)
Diff: 6ºF
Capillary: 18" End 1" Aircoil
SPST, F.L.A. 20A, L.R.A. 80A

I would go for it



Hey Big Bob (from Bob);

I love the education I'm getting. Where did you come up with the
specs for the Universal type window unit thermostat kit?

SPST= single pole, single throw. What is F.L.A. and L.R.A.?

Is it Universal enough that the mounting holes are going to match, or
is that too much to ask?

Stormin Mormon: The tube spacing looks OK, but before I spend buy any
new parts, I am going to try moving the tube somewhat and see what
happens.

Bob

SPST= single pole, single throw.
What is F.L.A.
CY: Full Load Amps

and L.R.A.?
CY: Locked Rotor Amps.

Stormin Mormon: The tube spacing looks OK, but before I
spend buy any
new parts, I am going to try moving the tube somewhat and
see what
happens.

CY: Sounds like a plan. No sense in replacing a good part.

Bob wrote:
On Jun 28, 3:24 pm, "Big Bob" wrote:
Not only is the voltage important, so is the amp rating.
The specs for the part you propose a
Universal type window unit thermostat kit.

Range: Cold Off (52ºF) Warm On (93ºF)
Diff: 6ºF
Capillary: 18" End 1" Aircoil
SPST, F.L.A. 20A, L.R.A. 80A

I would go for it



Hey Big Bob (from Bob);

I love the education I'm getting. Where did you come up with the
specs for the Universal type window unit thermostat kit?

SPST= single pole, single throw. What is F.L.A. and L.R.A.?

Is it Universal enough that the mounting holes are going to match, or
is that too much to ask?

Stormin Mormon: The tube spacing looks OK, but before I spend buy any
new parts, I am going to try moving the tube somewhat and see what
happens.

Bob

Did you install a jumper wire in place of the thermostat?
If the AC ran OK with the jumper in place, then it's the
thermostat. The way thermostats are mounted on window AC
units is important because it also detects icing of the
evaporator and shuts off the compressor. The rubber or
foam block that the sensing bulb is mounted on is necessary
for proper operation.

TDD

Sorry it took so long to get back to you.
Sounds like Stormin answered a few of your questions.
What I did was go to the item you provided a link for and then put that part
number in Google followed by the work specs. A page from another site popped
up with the specs.
As far as the mounting holes, well in the past when I used universal
replacements, at times I had to drill a new hole or 2 in the faceplate to
get it to mount. I would rather drill a few holes than spend and extra 70
bucks for an OEM stat.




"Bob" wrote in message
...
On Jun 28, 3:24 pm, "Big Bob" wrote:
Not only is the voltage important, so is the amp rating.
The specs for the part you propose a
Universal type window unit thermostat kit.

Range: Cold Off (52ºF) Warm On (93ºF)
Diff: 6ºF
Capillary: 18" End 1" Aircoil
SPST, F.L.A. 20A, L.R.A. 80A

I would go for it



Hey Big Bob (from Bob);

I love the education I'm getting. Where did you come up with the
specs for the Universal type window unit thermostat kit?

SPST= single pole, single throw. What is F.L.A. and L.R.A.?

Is it Universal enough that the mounting holes are going to match, or
is that too much to ask?

Stormin Mormon: The tube spacing looks OK, but before I spend buy any
new parts, I am going to try moving the tube somewhat and see what
happens.

Bob

I removed the jumper from the thermostat and repositioned the tube at
some distance from the cold coils and fins.

The air condiioner ran about three minutes and cycled off. I guess
I've pretty well proven that the thermostat is bad.

I just ordered the universal replacement by phoning the 800 number in
the website I mentioned several posts back. They said they'd get it
out yet today by UPS ground. I ought to see it by Thursday or Friday.
(Is Friday, July 3, a UPS holiday?)

With any luck my next posting on this site will say I didn't have to
drill any holes and everything is fixed.

Meanwhile, thanks to everyone here for all the help. Assuming that
this fixes the problem, I'm glad I didn't try to get some one to make
a service call, or, worse yet, toss my unit in the dump and buy a new
one.

Bob



On Jun 29, 12:57*pm, "Big Bob" wrote:
Sorry it took so long to get back to you.
Sounds like Stormin answered a few of your questions.
What I did was go to the item you provided a link for and then put that part
number in Google followed by the work specs. A page from another site popped
up with the specs.
As far as the mounting holes, well in the past when I used universal
replacements, at times I had to drill a new hole or 2 in the faceplate to
get it to mount. I would rather drill a few holes than spend and extra 70
bucks for an OEM stat.

"Bob" wrote in message

...
On Jun 28, 3:24 pm, "Big Bob" wrote:

Not only is the voltage important, so is the amp rating.
The specs for the part you propose a
Universal type window unit thermostat kit.

Range: Cold Off (52ºF) Warm On (93ºF)
Diff: 6ºF
Capillary: 18" End 1" Aircoil
SPST, F.L.A. 20A, L.R.A. 80A

I would go for it

Hey Big Bob *(from Bob);

I love the education I'm getting. *Where did you come up with the
specs for the Universal type window unit thermostat kit?

SPST= single pole, single throw. *What is F.L.A. and L.R.A.?

Is it Universal enough that the mounting holes are going to match, or
is that too much to ask?

Stormin Mormon: *The tube spacing looks OK, but before I spend buy any
new parts, I am going to try moving the tube somewhat and see what
happens.

Bob

I sense, strongly, that you're going to fix it.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob" wrote in message
...
I removed the jumper from the thermostat and repositioned
the tube at
some distance from the cold coils and fins.

The air condiioner ran about three minutes and cycled off.
I guess
I've pretty well proven that the thermostat is bad.

I just ordered the universal replacement by phoning the 800
number in
the website I mentioned several posts back. They said
they'd get it
out yet today by UPS ground. I ought to see it by Thursday
or Friday.
(Is Friday, July 3, a UPS holiday?)

With any luck my next posting on this site will say I didn't
have to
drill any holes and everything is fixed.

Meanwhile, thanks to everyone here for all the help.
Assuming that
this fixes the problem, I'm glad I didn't try to get some
one to make
a service call, or, worse yet, toss my unit in the dump and
buy a new
one.

Bob

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

I sense, strongly, that you're going to fix it.


Psychic repair predictions. Have you notified Randi?

"Big Bob"
scribblednews:96GdnYOPD_GbFNvXnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@gig anews.com:

Bad thermostat ( short cycling)
Low on refrigerant (cycling on a low pressure switch)
Dirty or bad condenser motor (cycling on a high pressure switch)

All 3 are easy to troubleshoot if you have any knowledge of basic
electricity. Just find the appropriate terminals and wire the control
out.

In this heat wave and your 3 to 5 minute cycle I am betting on the
thermostat.



Obviously he doesn't know any of that stuff....so, I myself would chuck the
old POS in the trash (SEER 4 maybe?) and go to Conns, Fry's or similar and
buy myself a brand new one, with remote controls with SEER rating in the
13s for around $230.


HTH

bill

Fixed !!!!

The replacement thermostat arrived after the 4th of July holiday. The
holes matched exactly and the part went in easily. So far my air
conditioner works just fine. Of course, now it has been unusually
cool and I haven't really needed it.

I'm a little late posting this note....and thanking everyone....right
after I fixed the air conditioner I had a computer meltdown and was
off the air for several days. Today everything at my home is working
fine including the computer. I wonder what tomorrow will bring.


Bob








On Jun 29, 3:26*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I sense, strongly, that you're going to fix it.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Bob" wrote in message

...
I removed the jumper from the thermostat and repositioned
the tube at
some distance from the cold coils and fins.

Theaircondiioner ran about three minutes and cycled off.
I guess
I've pretty well proven that the thermostat is bad.

I just ordered the universal replacement by phoning the 800
number in
the website I mentioned several posts back. *They said
they'd get it
out yet today by UPS ground. *I ought to see it by Thursday
or Friday.
(Is Friday, July 3, a UPS holiday?)

With any luck my next posting on this site will say I didn't
have to
drill any holes and everything is fixed.

Meanwhile, thanks to everyone here for all the help.
Assuming that
this fixes the problem, I'm glad I didn't try to get some
one to make
a service call, or, worse yet, toss my unit in the dump and
buy a new
one.

Bob

We never doubted you.

"It's always the thermostat" Trademark, used with
permission.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob" wrote in message
...
Fixed !!!!

The replacement thermostat arrived after the 4th of July
holiday. The
holes matched exactly and the part went in easily. So far
my air
conditioner works just fine. Of course, now it has been
unusually
cool and I haven't really needed it.

I'm a little late posting this note....and thanking
everyone....right
after I fixed the air conditioner I had a computer meltdown
and was
off the air for several days. Today everything at my home
is working
fine including the computer. I wonder what tomorrow will
bring.


Bob

replying to Bob, Flo wrote:
Is the condenser fan turning too slow? if so check the capacitor or the motor
may be bad

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replying to Flo, SoulSnatcher wrote:
Why are you people still suggesting problems and/or fixes? Didn't you see
several posts back that it was the thermostat and he already fixed it? Try and
keep up huh.

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On Tuesday, May 15, 2018 at 9:14:06 AM UTC-4, SoulSnatcher wrote:
replying to Flo, SoulSnatcher wrote:
Why are you people still suggesting problems and/or fixes? Didn't you see
several posts back that it was the thermostat and he already fixed it? Try and
keep up huh.

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for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ou-380992-.htm

Ain't that special. You just revived an old thread to tell other people
that they shouldn't keep it going. You are the "you people"

replying to Big Bob, OJNATIVIDAD wrote:
-passed the thermostat and the cycling seems to have stopped.
I did look at the coils again, both by checking airflow and shining a
flashlight through the fins, and I'm pretty sure the coils are plenty clean.
Next challenge:
I looked at Frigidare replacement parts and the thermostat is in the $110
range----ouch!!!!! The Frigidare part # is G158995.
Looking further on-line I found a universal replacement thermostat for about
$35 at http://www.appliancepartsworldwide.c...spx?Id=1018989
Does anyone have any comments on using a universal part to save some cash?
My air conditioner is 220 volt. Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like
the control circuits are also 220 volts, In the various online parts catalogs I
don't see any callouts for voltages for thermostats. Am I missing something
here?
B
I'm having the same problem I did by-passed the thermostat but still doing the
same thing

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replying to Bob, BASANT SWAROOP wrote:
cooling stop work after 5 minutes & copressor stop workig

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On Sun, 12 Aug 2018 13:44:02 GMT, BASANT SWAROOP
m wrote:

replying to Bob, BASANT SWAROOP wrote:

cooling stop work after 5 minutes & copressor stop workig

Taint that some ****. It must be terrible.

Oren wrote:

Taint that some ****. It must be terrible.

He's been sweating for nine years!

On Sunday, August 12, 2018 at 7:09:26 PM UTC-5, Neill Massello wrote:
Oren wrote:

Taint that some ****. It must be terrible.

He's been sweating for nine years!

I thought he was abducted by giant mutant gerbils from outer space? o_O

[8~{} Uncle Space Monster