Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Should work, but I'd be very careful and would be tempted to overbuild
seeing as it *is* load bearing. Maybe make the header from 2x6's on
edge rather than 2x4s as currently used.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 14:46:02 -0700 (PDT), Aaron Fude
wrote:

Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg


Why? That photo tells me you have a lot of work on the other side too
do later.


This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

All this for one door in a house?

On Oct 19, 4:46*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

On Oct 19, 4:46*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Too much work. The king studs carry the load, so simply remove the 2 x
4's and jack studs, install new jack studs with 2 x 6, 2 x 8 or even 2
x 12 headers on edge with 1/2" plywood spacer in between. Look at
some new house construction in your area to see what current best
practices are where you live. IIRC, 80 1/4" is the common distance
from subfloor to header. If you have a framing nailer it will go
together quickly. An impact driver and construction screws are even
cheaper overall cost and won't crack plaster like hammering used to.
Have fun.

Joe

82.5" is the proper rough opening height.

s

"Joe" wrote in message
...


IIRC, 80 1/4" is the common distance
from subfloor to header. If you have a framing nailer it will go
together quickly. An impact driver and construction screws are even
cheaper overall cost and won't crack plaster like hammering used to.
Have fun.

Joe

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:25:18 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote:

82.5" is the proper rough opening height.

s

For what door?

On Oct 19, 7:59*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:25:18 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"

wrote:
82.5" is the proper rough opening height.

s

For what door?

Ransley and Joe: I'm assuming that the header is load bearing, is it
not?
Nate: what do you mean by "overbuilding"
Also, about the recommendation of holding up the joints with 4x4. Does
putting 2 2x4's together sufficient?

Many thanks for all the responses.

Aaron

"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
On Oct 19, 7:59 pm, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:25:18 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"

wrote:
82.5" is the proper rough opening height.

s

For what door?

Ransley and Joe: I'm assuming that the header is load bearing, is it
not?
Nate: what do you mean by "overbuilding"
Also, about the recommendation of holding up the joints with 4x4. Does
putting 2 2x4's together sufficient?

Many thanks for all the responses.

Aaron

The 2x4 header over the door should be at least 2x6 on edge with a spacer.
I agree that building all that temp support is over-kill for the short time
you will have the jack studs and header out. The double header on the wall
is more than enough to support things while you work, but if you are really
worried, a couple 2x4 to support the two joists over the door will more than
suffice.

If you are planning to make the door wider, It looks like you would only be
able to go to the left side, so put in your new stud on that side before
taking out the old one.

It looks like you pretty old construction here, full 2x4 studs. Try and
save and reuse what you can of this old wood so you don't need to shim new
wood to size.

Mark

On Oct 19, 8:09*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
On Oct 19, 7:59*pm, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:25:18 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"

wrote:
82.5" is the proper rough opening height.

s

For what door?

Ransley and Joe: I'm assuming that the header is load bearing, is it
not?
Nate: what do you mean by "overbuilding"
Also, about the recommendation of holding up the joints with 4x4. Does
putting 2 2x4's together sufficient?

Many thanks for all the responses.

Aaron

Above the door I say its not, I would just raise it, you are not
making it wider, the supports wont be bothered.

On Oct 19, 5:46*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.
-----

- gpsman

On Oct 19, 9:44*pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 19, 5:46*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:

Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.
*-----

- gpsman

Squat is what it supports, a bit of lath and plaster.

ransley wrote:
On Oct 19, 9:44 pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 19, 5:46 pm, Aaron Fude wrote:

Hi,
I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.
http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg
This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?
That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.
-----

- gpsman

Squat is what it supports, a bit of lath and plaster.
Agreed, hardest part of the job will be cutting the lath and plaster
above the door, without trashing the entire far-side wall surface. That
keying loves to bust off the back of the plaster surface layer.
Fine-tooth blade and a jigsaw, not a sawzall, is what I always had the
best luck with. Don't rattle the wall.

--
aem sends...

On Oct 19, 7:44*pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 19, 5:46*pm, Aaron Fude wrote:

Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.
*-----

- gpsman

??? From the picture, that is a load bearing wall and there are two
joists supported by the door header which is undersized for its
function.

Harry K

In article , ransley wrote:
On Oct 19, 4:46=A0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking about.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.

standard 80 inch door. duh.

s


"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:25:18 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote:

82.5" is the proper rough opening height.

s

For what door?

On 10/19/2008 8:01 PM aemeijers spake thus:

ransley wrote:

On Oct 19, 9:44 pm, gpsman wrote:

On Oct 19, 5:46 pm, Aaron Fude wrote:

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.
http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg
This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.

Squat is what it supports, a bit of lath and plaster.
Agreed, hardest part of the job will be cutting the lath and plaster
above the door, without trashing the entire far-side wall surface. That
keying loves to bust off the back of the plaster surface layer.
Fine-tooth blade and a jigsaw, not a sawzall, is what I always had the
best luck with. Don't rattle the wall.

Maybe this is a job for the incredible MultiMaster (As Seen on TV!).
(See other thread here.)


--
Washing one's hands of the conflict between the powerful and the
powerless means to side with the powerful, not to be neutral.

- Paulo Freire

On Oct 19, 10:12*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , ransley wrote:





On Oct 19, 4:46=A0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking about.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling,
the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow
up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that
wont even be removed to put in a taller door.

On Oct 20, 4:38*am, ransley wrote:
On Oct 19, 10:12*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:





In article , ransley wrote:

On Oct 19, 4:46=A0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking about.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling,
the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow
up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that
wont even be removed to put in a taller door.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You _do_ see those two joists running across the top of th door
opening, right??

Take out that one cripple stud and you have two unsupported joists in
a load bearing wall. Clues:

1: at least one of the joists has been spliced above the door.
2: The joists run at right angles to the wall.

Doug is correct - you don't know what you are talkign about.

Harry K

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
ransley wrote:
On Oct 19, 9:44 pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 19, 5:46 pm, Aaron Fude wrote:

Hi,
I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.
http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg
This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?
That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.
-----

- gpsman

Squat is what it supports, a bit of lath and plaster.
Agreed, hardest part of the job will be cutting the lath and plaster above
the door, without trashing the entire far-side wall surface. That keying
loves to bust off the back of the plaster surface layer. Fine-tooth blade
and a jigsaw, not a sawzall, is what I always had the best luck with.
Don't rattle the wall.

--
aem sends...

I agree...

On Oct 20, 9:00*am, Harry K wrote:
On Oct 20, 4:38*am, ransley wrote:





On Oct 19, 10:12*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article , ransley wrote:

On Oct 19, 4:46=A0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking about.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling,
the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow
up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that
wont even be removed to put in a taller door.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You _do_ see those two joists running across the top of th door
opening, right??

Take out that one cripple stud and you have two unsupported joists in
a load bearing wall. *Clues:

1: *at least one of the joists has been spliced above the door.
2: *The joists run at right angles to the wall.

Doug is correct - you don't know what you are talkign about.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is no concern, nor can anyone viewing it full 500% zoom on a 24"
monitor see one, to the right and left of door opening are single
studs floor to ceiling that hold all load, to the right in corner is
another full stud, above those is maybe a 4x6" beam under the joists
that will stay supported. The corner is well built. To the left of the
door are 2, 2x12 joists where stairs go up, supported by the full stud
to the left of the door and another stud about only 12" further left.
The 2 inner apx 7ft studs and one 12" center in the door middle do
nothing for above support, they support the door itself, joists are
still suported by the double 2x4 under joists. Remove those 3 and
lath-plaster and nothing will happen. Its plain as day. Do you guys
just guess, or actualy remove and design additions. This house was
well built.

on 10/19/2008 5:46 PM Aaron Fude said the following:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron


Piece of cake.
Here, I did it for you. I didn't use any bracing at all. I used a couple
of PT wood for the header. :-)
http://www.willshak.com/temp/

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
in the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Oct 20, 8:09*am, ransley wrote:
On Oct 20, 9:00*am, Harry K wrote:





On Oct 20, 4:38*am, ransley wrote:

On Oct 19, 10:12*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article , ransley wrote:

On Oct 19, 4:46=A0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking about.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling,
the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow
up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that
wont even be removed to put in a taller door.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You _do_ see those two joists running across the top of th door
opening, right??

Take out that one cripple stud and you have two unsupported joists in
a load bearing wall. *Clues:

1: *at least one of the joists has been spliced above the door.
2: *The joists run at right angles to the wall.

Doug is correct - you don't know what you are talkign about.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is no concern, nor can anyone viewing it full 500% zoom on a 24"
monitor see one, to the right and left of door opening are single
studs floor to ceiling that hold all load, to the right in corner is
another full stud, above those is maybe a 4x6" beam under the joists
that will stay supported. The corner is well built. To the left of the
door are 2, 2x12 joists where stairs go up, supported by the full stud
to the left of the door and another stud about only 12" further left.
The 2 inner apx 7ft studs and one 12" *center in the door middle do
nothing for above support, they support the door itself, joists are
still suported by the double 2x4 under joists. *Remove those 3 and
lath-plaster and nothing will happen. Its plain as day. Do you guys
just guess, or actualy remove and design additions. This house was
well built.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Okay, you are figuring the double top plate is sufficient support. I
thought that was your idea. Call that a 36" opening between your two
full length studs (by the way, single full length studs in that
position would never pass modern standards). Per you, that is all that
is needed. Now say that the clear span is 48" - still enough?, 60"?
Just where do you, in your vast knowledge of constructions standards,
begin to add a real (as defined by construction standards) header and
cripples?

The standard is, or was when I took a carpentry course (applied) 40
years ago, a double 2x6 above all door openings and cripples at
16" (24" if studding is 2x6). Anything less would fail inspection.

Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner,
method. It still would be **** poor work.

Harry K

On Oct 20, 2:42 pm, Harry K wrote:

Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner,
method. It still would be **** poor work.

The full length studs will *easily* support the top plate (as they do
now), regardless of any code considerations.
-----

- gpsman

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 22:10:18 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

Squat is what it supports, a bit of lath and plaster.
Agreed, hardest part of the job will be cutting the lath and plaster
above the door, without trashing the entire far-side wall surface. That
keying loves to bust off the back of the plaster surface layer.
Fine-tooth blade and a jigsaw, not a sawzall, is what I always had the
best luck with. Don't rattle the wall.

Maybe this is a job for the incredible MultiMaster (As Seen on TV!).
(See other thread here.)


Use 4 Inch Angle Grinder with a thin diamond blade. Draw the line and
cut the plaster out. It's a clean cut with little damage. Not
plaster, but I've cut plenty of stucco, wire, nail heads, etc. with
this tool.

The blade is $35.00 vs what the multi blades cost.

Prepare for dust.

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 22:37:03 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote:

standard 80 inch door. duh.

s


"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:25:18 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote:

82.5" is the proper rough opening height.

s

For what door?



I'm not compelled to believe the OP is doing something standard here.

I'm guessing he wants a more majestic style door. Who knows his door
size; now or then?!

In article , ransley wrote:
On Oct 19, 10:12=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, ransley wrote:





On Oct 19, 4:46=3DA0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking ab=
out.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling,
the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow
up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that
wont even be removed to put in a taller door.

So you think the cripple stud isn't supporting any of the weight that's loaded
on the top plate?

I'm not blind ... but you're ignorant. Don't try to give structural advice.
You haven't the first clue.

On Oct 20, 12:35*pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 20, 2:42 pm, Harry K wrote:



Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner,
method. *It still would be **** poor work.

The full length studs will *easily* support the top plate (as they do
now), regardless of any code considerations.
*-----

- gpsman

Top plate yes. The load the top plate is carrying - no. Don't tell
me tht you also don't think it is a load bearing wall. Construction
standards have been developed for good and sufficient reasons - it is
best to follow them. Of course if you can convince a construction
engineer that that is o.k...

Harry K

On Oct 20, 12:35*pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 20, 2:42 pm, Harry K wrote:



Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner,
method. *It still would be **** poor work.

The full length studs will *easily* support the top plate (as they do
now), regardless of any code considerations.
*-----

- gpsman

Addition. You are also overlooking the function of that cripple stud
in the middle. It is transfering the load to the two jack studs.
Even with that put back in it still falls far short of standard
construction.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Oct 20, 12:35 pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 20, 2:42 pm, Harry K wrote:



Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner,
method. It still would be **** poor work.
The full length studs will *easily* support the top plate (as they do
now), regardless of any code considerations.
-----

- gpsman

Addition. You are also overlooking the function of that cripple stud
in the middle. It is transfering the load to the two jack studs.
Even with that put back in it still falls far short of standard
construction.

Harry K

I don't think anybody said he should build it back without a header over
the door. What most of us said was, for the time it takes to do the
work, the wall is unlikely to have any problems. But if OP is nervous, a
section of beam a little wider than the door, and a screw post or two,
to temporarily catch the weight of the joists over the door, would
eliminate any concern. Even a couple of angled 2x4 kickers under the top
plate, and toenailed into floor, would probably be plenty.

--
aem sends...

On Oct 20, 9:17*pm, aemeijers wrote:
Harry K wrote:
On Oct 20, 12:35 pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 20, 2:42 pm, Harry K wrote:

Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner,
method. *It still would be **** poor work.
The full length studs will *easily* support the top plate (as they do
now), regardless of any code considerations.
*-----

- gpsman

Addition. *You are also overlooking the function of that cripple stud
in the middle. *It is transfering the load to the two jack studs.
Even with that *put back in it still falls far short of standard
construction.

Harry K

I don't think anybody said he should build it back without a header over
the door. What most of us said was, for the time it takes to do the
work, the wall is unlikely to have any problems. But if OP is nervous, a
section of beam a little wider than the door, and a screw post or two,
to temporarily catch the weight of the joists over the door, would
eliminate any concern. Even a couple of angled 2x4 kickers under the top
plate, and toenailed into floor, would probably be plenty.

--
aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agreed that it will hold long enough to do the work. However what
'most' have said is far from what you re claiming:

One sample:
----------------------------------

On Oct 19, 5:46 pm, Aaron Fude wrote:


Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.


http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg


This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?



That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.

-----------------------------------

Harry K

On Oct 20, 5:59*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , ransley wrote:





On Oct 19, 10:12=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, ransley wrote:

On Oct 19, 4:46=3DA0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking ab=
out.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling,
the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow
up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that
wont even be removed to put in a taller door.

So you think the cripple stud isn't supporting any of the weight that's loaded
on the top plate?

I'm not blind ... but you're ignorant. Don't try to give structural advice.
You haven't the first clue.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A clue, Ive done years of remodeling like that, the HO will not have
any issues, I would not worry doing it in my house.

In article , ransley wrote:
On Oct 20, 5:59=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:

So you think the cripple stud isn't supporting any of the weight that's loaded
on the top plate?

I notice you didn't answer this. I wonder why.

I'm not blind ... but you're ignorant. Don't try to give structural advice.
You haven't the first clue.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A clue, Ive done years of remodeling like that, the HO will not have
any issues, I would not worry doing it in my house.

Yes, and I've done years of cleaning up after other people who did remodeling
like that. The homeowner sure as hell will have issues if he follows your
advice and rebuilds without a cripple stud; the cripple stud IS load-bearing,
whether you are able to understand that or not. The fact that you would not
worry about doing it in your house does not mean it's a good idea.

On Oct 21, 4:12*am, ransley wrote:
On Oct 20, 5:59*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:





In article , ransley wrote:

On Oct 19, 10:12=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, ransley wrote:

On Oct 19, 4:46=3DA0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.

http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg

This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?

Thanks!

Aaron

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking ab=
out.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling,
the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow
up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that
wont even be removed to put in a taller door.

So you think the cripple stud isn't supporting any of the weight that's loaded
on the top plate?

I'm not blind ... but you're ignorant. Don't try to give structural advice.
You haven't the first clue.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A clue, Ive done years of remodeling like that, the HO will not have
any issues, I would not worry doing it in my house.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is people like you who give real carpenters problems and causes the
public to look down upon the trades, assuming of course that you
actually do remodeling.

Harry K