On Oct 20, 8:09*am, ransley wrote:
On Oct 20, 9:00*am, Harry K wrote:
On Oct 20, 4:38*am, ransley wrote:
On Oct 19, 10:12*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , ransley wrote:
On Oct 19, 4:46=A0pm, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,
I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.
http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg
This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?
Thanks!
Aaron
Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you
leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would
just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be
easier than building support walls
Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking about.
The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.- Hide quoted text -
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You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling,
the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow
up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that
wont even be removed to put in a taller door.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
You _do_ see those two joists running across the top of th door
opening, right??
Take out that one cripple stud and you have two unsupported joists in
a load bearing wall. *Clues:
1: *at least one of the joists has been spliced above the door.
2: *The joists run at right angles to the wall.
Doug is correct - you don't know what you are talkign about.
Harry K- Hide quoted text -
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There is no concern, nor can anyone viewing it full 500% zoom on a 24"
monitor see one, to the right and left of door opening are single
studs floor to ceiling that hold all load, to the right in corner is
another full stud, above those is maybe a 4x6" beam under the joists
that will stay supported. The corner is well built. To the left of the
door are 2, 2x12 joists where stairs go up, supported by the full stud
to the left of the door and another stud about only 12" further left.
The 2 inner apx 7ft studs and one 12" *center in the door middle do
nothing for above support, they support the door itself, joists are
still suported by the double 2x4 under joists. *Remove those 3 and
lath-plaster and nothing will happen. Its plain as day. Do you guys
just guess, or actualy remove and design additions. This house was
well built.- Hide quoted text -
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Okay, you are figuring the double top plate is sufficient support. I
thought that was your idea. Call that a 36" opening between your two
full length studs (by the way, single full length studs in that
position would never pass modern standards). Per you, that is all that
is needed. Now say that the clear span is 48" - still enough?, 60"?
Just where do you, in your vast knowledge of constructions standards,
begin to add a real (as defined by construction standards) header and
cripples?
The standard is, or was when I took a carpentry course (applied) 40
years ago, a double 2x6 above all door openings and cripples at
16" (24" if studding is 2x6). Anything less would fail inspection.
Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner,
method. It still would be **** poor work.
Harry K