On Oct 20, 9:17*pm, aemeijers wrote:
Harry K wrote:
On Oct 20, 12:35 pm, gpsman wrote:
On Oct 20, 2:42 pm, Harry K wrote:

Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner,
method. *It still would be **** poor work.
The full length studs will *easily* support the top plate (as they do
now), regardless of any code considerations.
*-----

- gpsman

Addition. *You are also overlooking the function of that cripple stud
in the middle. *It is transfering the load to the two jack studs.
Even with that *put back in it still falls far short of standard
construction.

Harry K

I don't think anybody said he should build it back without a header over
the door. What most of us said was, for the time it takes to do the
work, the wall is unlikely to have any problems. But if OP is nervous, a
section of beam a little wider than the door, and a screw post or two,
to temporarily catch the weight of the joists over the door, would
eliminate any concern. Even a couple of angled 2x4 kickers under the top
plate, and toenailed into floor, would probably be plenty.

--
aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agreed that it will hold long enough to do the work. However what
'most' have said is far from what you re claiming:

One sample:
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On Oct 19, 5:46 pm, Aaron Fude wrote:


Hi,

I would like to make this doorway higher to match the rest of the
doors in my house.


http://freeboundaries.com/raisethedoor.jpg


This is weight bearing wall so my plan is to build two temp walls on
either side of the door, lining up with the joists. Then take out the
header, the "ladder" piece (if I'm not mistaken), the two 2x4's that
the header is resting on, and then rebuild. Does that sound like the
correct plan?



That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.

-----------------------------------

Harry K