I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers. This is just guesswork for now so the numbers
aren't that important. Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36" oak
DVD rack, assume it will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it
directly to the studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on
in case I move the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not
drywall will be able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I
actually don't know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.

on 7/22/2007 4:28 PM Eigenvector said the following:
I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers.

Where do you live? Here in the US, studs are usually 16" on center (or
24") which would be 48" for three studs (48" for 2 studs 24" OC).
This is just guesswork for now so the numbers
aren't that important. Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36" oak
DVD rack, assume it will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it
directly to the studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on
in case I move the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not
drywall will be able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I
actually don't know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.





--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

"Abe" wrote in message
...
I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers. This is just guesswork for now so the numbers
aren't that important. Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36"
oak
DVD rack, assume it will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it
directly to the studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on
in case I move the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not
drywall will be able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I
actually don't know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.

If you use molly bolts or toggle bolts you'll be fine.

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...infanchor.html

That's kind of what I was thinking, but I wanted to check first.

"willshak" wrote in message
...
on 7/22/2007 4:28 PM Eigenvector said the following:
I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers.

Where do you live? Here in the US, studs are usually 16" on center (or
24") which would be 48" for three studs (48" for 2 studs 24" OC).

Well like I said the numbers aren't important, besides the stud spacing in
my house isn't consistent enough to rely on. It'll all get measured out
when I build the rack.

This is just guesswork for now so the numbers aren't that important.
Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36" oak DVD rack, assume it
will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it directly to the
studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on in case I move
the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not drywall will be
able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I actually don't
know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.




--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Jul 22, 2:28 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
"willshak" wrote in message

...

on 7/22/2007 4:28 PM Eigenvector said the following:
I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers.

Where do you live? Here in the US, studs are usually 16" on center (or
24") which would be 48" for three studs (48" for 2 studs 24" OC).

Well like I said the numbers aren't important, besides the stud spacing in
my house isn't consistent enough to rely on. It'll all get measured out
when I build the rack.

This is just guesswork for now so the numbers aren't that important.
Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36" oak DVD rack, assume it
will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it directly to the
studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on in case I move
the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not drywall will be
able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I actually don't
know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

EV-

IMO molly toggles & molly bolts suck.
They're a PITA to work with, I hatethem, never use them.

I think your weight estimate ( 50 lbs) is good. SO even if you only
use three screws the withdrawl load on the center screw (worst case)
is less than 25 lbs.

I would use plastic wall anchors, I know they're not all that strong
but the loads in your situation are pretty low.


OR

use threaded drywall anchors (plastic or zinc); quick, easy, strong

http://www.artistcraft.com/Sealants/Anchors_Bits/210

Mollys are overkill for you application; too much work & harder to
remove & patch

cheers
Bob

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 22, 2:28 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
"willshak" wrote in message

...

on 7/22/2007 4:28 PM Eigenvector said the following:
I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide -
about
36" assuming 18" centers.

Where do you live? Here in the US, studs are usually 16" on center (or
24") which would be 48" for three studs (48" for 2 studs 24" OC).

Well like I said the numbers aren't important, besides the stud spacing
in
my house isn't consistent enough to rely on. It'll all get measured out
when I build the rack.

This is just guesswork for now so the numbers aren't that important.
Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36" oak DVD rack, assume
it
will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it directly to the
studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on in case I
move
the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not drywall will
be
able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I actually
don't
know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

EV-

IMO molly toggles & molly bolts suck.
They're a PITA to work with, I hatethem, never use them.

I think your weight estimate ( 50 lbs) is good. SO even if you only
use three screws the withdrawl load on the center screw (worst case)
is less than 25 lbs.

I would use plastic wall anchors, I know they're not all that strong
but the loads in your situation are pretty low.

Personally, I find most plastic wall anchors are made of cheap slippery
plastic and easily slide out of drywall. Anchors that spread the load behind
the drywall, I find best for taking weight.

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 22, 2:28 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
"willshak" wrote in message

...

on 7/22/2007 4:28 PM Eigenvector said the following:
I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide -
about
36" assuming 18" centers.

Where do you live? Here in the US, studs are usually 16" on center (or
24") which would be 48" for three studs (48" for 2 studs 24" OC).

Well like I said the numbers aren't important, besides the stud spacing
in
my house isn't consistent enough to rely on. It'll all get measured out
when I build the rack.

This is just guesswork for now so the numbers aren't that important.
Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36" oak DVD rack, assume
it
will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it directly to the
studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on in case I
move
the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not drywall will
be
able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I actually
don't
know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

EV-

IMO molly toggles & molly bolts suck.
They're a PITA to work with, I hatethem, never use them.

I think your weight estimate ( 50 lbs) is good. SO even if you only
use three screws the withdrawl load on the center screw (worst case)
is less than 25 lbs.

I would use plastic wall anchors, I know they're not all that strong
but the loads in your situation are pretty low.


OR

use threaded drywall anchors (plastic or zinc); quick, easy, strong

http://www.artistcraft.com/Sealants/Anchors_Bits/210

Mollys are overkill for you application; too much work & harder to
remove & patch

cheers
Bob

I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a bear to
patch and use, but my experience with plastic anchors is pretty ugly. I can
try what you have there, also perhaps may try those drywall toggles - they
seem a bit more solid - but probably won't work as well if there's
insulation behind the wall.

I know it's not a lot of weight per screw - I'm thinking 4 holes myself - so
that's less than 15 lbs per hole

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 13:28:04 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote:

I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers. This is just guesswork for now so the numbers
aren't that important. Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36" oak
DVD rack, assume it will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it
directly to the studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on
in case I move the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not
drywall will be able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I
actually don't know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.


Try using a French cleat (old thread I've read).

Building a French Cleat
Simple, Strong and Cheap

http://www.newwoodworker.com/frenchcleat.html

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

"Oren" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 13:28:04 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote:

I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers. This is just guesswork for now so the numbers
aren't that important. Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36"
oak
DVD rack, assume it will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it
directly to the studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on
in case I move the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not
drywall will be able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I
actually don't know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.


Try using a French cleat (old thread I've read).

Building a French Cleat
Simple, Strong and Cheap

http://www.newwoodworker.com/frenchcleat.html

--
Oren


Hmm, that's an idea. May be able to incorporate it into the design too.
That would also eliminate the need to put a hole in my nice oak boards too!

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 17:03:46 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 13:28:04 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote:

I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers. This is just guesswork for now so the numbers
aren't that important. Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36"
oak
DVD rack, assume it will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it
directly to the studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on
in case I move the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not
drywall will be able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I
actually don't know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.


Try using a French cleat (old thread I've read).

Building a French Cleat
Simple, Strong and Cheap

http://www.newwoodworker.com/frenchcleat.html

--
Oren


Hmm, that's an idea. May be able to incorporate it into the design too.
That would also eliminate the need to put a hole in my nice oak boards too!


Enlarge the pictures for the cabinet back

The cleat only needs two holes (1/4 X 3 1/2") lag bolts. And you can
move it with "minimal damage".

That site limits the cleat to 36".. bottom of page...
--
Oren

"I didn’t say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you."

On Jul 22, 3:58 pm, "EXT" wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Jul 22, 2:28 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
"willshak" wrote in message

...

on 7/22/2007 4:28 PM Eigenvector said the following:
I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide -
about
36" assuming 18" centers.

Where do you live? Here in the US, studs are usually 16" on center (or
24") which would be 48" for three studs (48" for 2 studs 24" OC).

Well like I said the numbers aren't important, besides the stud spacing
in
my house isn't consistent enough to rely on. It'll all get measured out
when I build the rack.

This is just guesswork for now so the numbers aren't that important.
Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36" oak DVD rack, assume
it
will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it directly to the
studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count on in case I
move
the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not drywall will
be
able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors. I actually
don't
know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

EV-

IMO molly toggles & molly bolts suck.
They're a PITA to work with, I hatethem, never use them.

I think your weight estimate ( 50 lbs) is good. SO even if you only
use three screws the withdrawl load on the center screw (worst case)
is less than 25 lbs.

I would use plastic wall anchors, I know they're not all that strong
but the loads in your situation are pretty low.

Personally, I find most plastic wall anchors are made of cheap slippery
plastic and easily slide out of drywall. Anchors that spread the load behind
the drywall, I find best for taking weight.


Plastic anchors are indeed made of "cheap slippery plastic"

but they do not easy slip out of drywall IF the correct drill size is
used AND the correct screw size is used.

Correctly installed, the anchor spreads & grips the drywall...never
had pull out problem with them as long as the loads were reasonable.

cheers
Bob

"Eigenvector" wrote:
I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a bear to
patch and use, but my experience with plastic anchors is pretty ugly.

If you take care to drill the right size hole with a new bit, insert the
insert flush with the wall, and use the right size screw in the insert (with
enough penetration), they hold well. You have to go by the numbers, though,
but if done right they are pretty sturdy.

Jon

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:34:50 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

"Eigenvector" wrote:
I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a bear to
patch and use, but my experience with plastic anchors is pretty ugly.

If you take care to drill the right size hole with a new bit, insert the

You would actually use a new bit in plaster? Doesn't that dull bits
faster than almost anything else?

I use the bits I paid 69 cents for 14 of them, and I don't think my
hole is any different in diameter or smoothness than any other bit
would make.

Comments?

insert flush with the wall, and use the right size screw in the insert (with
enough penetration), they hold well. You have to go by the numbers, though,
but if done right they are pretty sturdy.

Jon

Plastic wall anchors may be cheap, but that's because plastic is cheap
and anchors are easy to make.

They may be slippery, but they have little teeth that imbed themselves
in the plaster and the question is whether those teeth are sufficient
and whether they loose their corners so easily that the anchors slide
out. I don't think they do at low weights, but I've never weighed
things or compared them with the promised capacity so I don't know.


I don't know why the OP is asking about the NEXT time he hangs this
shelf, when he says that this time, he is putting the screws in studs.

I also don't know why it can't always be mounted on studs, since the
screws don't have to go through at the ends of the rack. If the rack
is 36 inches wide and 16" spacking, the left screw can go through the
rack say 8 inches from the left end, the next screw aat 24 inches from
the left end (and 12 from the right), and that is 16 inch spacing.

If there are holes from the previous mounting, one can put screws in
those too, even if those screws don't hit the studs and might bear no
weight.

"mm" wrote:
You would actually use a new bit in plaster? Doesn't that dull bits
faster than almost anything else?

I use the bits I paid 69 cents for 14 of them, and I don't think my
hole is any different in diameter or smoothness than any other bit
would make.

Comments?

The point is that the bit is straight, and makes a hole the correct
diameter, which the "use a new bit" recommendation will provide for.

Jon

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...
use threaded drywall anchors (plastic or zinc); quick, easy, strong

http://www.artistcraft.com/Sealants/Anchors_Bits/210


Yep, these will do just fine. The holding strength is 50 lbs per anchor.

They also make ones like these that have swing out hangers in the back that
hold 90 lbs per anchor.

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:34:50 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

"Eigenvector" wrote:
I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a bear
to
patch and use, but my experience with plastic anchors is pretty ugly.

If you take care to drill the right size hole with a new bit, insert the

You would actually use a new bit in plaster? Doesn't that dull bits
faster than almost anything else?


The OP stated 'drywall' not 'plaster'.

"Abe" wrote in message
...
I'm planning on mounting an oak DVD rack on my wall, 3 studs wide - about
36" assuming 18" centers. This is just guesswork for now so the numbers
aren't that important. Anyway, so I'm going to hang a single shelf 36"
oak
DVD rack, assume it will be filled with DVD's. The plan is to mount it
directly to the studs, but that's not something I can necessarily count
on
in case I move the rack in the future. So I'm wondering whether or not
drywall will be able to hold that much weight if I use drywall anchors.
I
actually don't know how much it will weigh I'm guessing less than 50 lbs.

If you use molly bolts or toggle bolts you'll be fine.

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...infanchor.html


I would use the "Threaded Drywall Anchors" or the "Threaded Drywall Toggles"
from the above link.

I have never had one come out...

EXT wrote:

I would use plastic wall anchors, I know they're not all that
strong but the loads in your situation are pretty low.

Personally, I find most plastic wall anchors are made of cheap
slippery plastic and easily slide out of drywall. Anchors that
spread the load behind the drywall, I find best for taking weight.

You and just about everyone else. Specifically, molly bolts, not
toggle bolts. A couple of those should easily hold your shelf with a
50# load.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

BobK207 wrote:

Mollys are overkill for you application; too much work & harder to
remove & patch

One doesn't - can't - remove them if they have been used properly.
All that is necessary is a swipe of spackle or DW compound over the
slightly sunken collar/flange.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Eigenvector wrote:

I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a
bear to patch and use,

What's so hard?

1. Drill bolt size holes in whatever you are going to put up.

2. Temporarily put against wall and use bolt holes to mark/drill holes
in drywall.

3. Drill holes in DW the diameter of the molly insert

4. Insert mollys

5. Tighten bolt so molly expands behind wall and the collar flange
sets slightly into DW

6. Remove bolts

7. Put bolts through what you want to hang. A washer under the head
may be needed depending on how big a hole you drilled.

8. Screw bolts into molly inserts

If you ever remove your shelf all you need do is swipe a bit of
spackle or DW compound over the sunken collar of the molly. Easier
than fixing a hole from a plastic insert, lots easier than fixing a
large hole from a toggle bolt or the big threaded DW anchors.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Ii0pi.3174$7w.42@trnddc05...
BobK207 wrote:

Mollys are overkill for you application; too much work & harder to
remove & patch

One doesn't - can't - remove them if they have been used properly.


So you're telling me I can't use a little hole saw and drill around the head
so it will fall into the wall? :-)

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Ii0pi.3174$7w.42@trnddc05...
BobK207 wrote:

Mollys are overkill for you application; too much work & harder
to remove & patch

One doesn't - can't - remove them if they have been used properly.


So you're telling me I can't use a little hole saw and drill around
the head so it will fall into the wall? :-)

Easier to just punch it through...but neither way *removes* it.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:10:56 -0500, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:34:50 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

"Eigenvector" wrote:
I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a bear
to
patch and use, but my experience with plastic anchors is pretty ugly.

If you take care to drill the right size hole with a new bit, insert the

You would actually use a new bit in plaster? Doesn't that dull bits
faster than almost anything else?


The OP stated 'drywall' not 'plaster'.

Doesn't drywall mean sheetrock?

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:42:09 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:


5. Tighten bolt so molly expands behind wall and the collar flange
sets slightly into DW

6. Remove bolts

7. Put bolts through what you want to hang. A washer under the head
may be needed depending on how big a hole you drilled.

8. Screw bolts into molly inserts

If you ever remove your shelf all you need do is swipe a bit of
spackle or DW compound over the sunken collar of the molly. Easier

I think the concern is that there will be a bump where the spackle is
put over the molly, a big bump if the flange only "sets slightly" in
the DW.

than fixing a hole from a plastic insert, lots easier than fixing a
large hole from a toggle bolt or the big threaded DW anchors.

mm wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:42:09 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:


5. Tighten bolt so molly expands behind wall and the collar flange
sets slightly into DW

6. Remove bolts

7. Put bolts through what you want to hang. A washer under the head
may be needed depending on how big a hole you drilled.

8. Screw bolts into molly inserts

If you ever remove your shelf all you need do is swipe a bit of
spackle or DW compound over the sunken collar of the molly. Easier

I think the concern is that there will be a bump where the spackle is
put over the molly, a big bump if the flange only "sets slightly" in
the DW.

Naw. You just take a hammer and dimple the insert a bit into the drywall.
You'd never know it was there.
--
Dave
www.davebbq.com

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:10:56 -0500, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:34:50 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

"Eigenvector" wrote:
I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a
bear
to
patch and use, but my experience with plastic anchors is pretty
ugly.

If you take care to drill the right size hole with a new bit, insert
the

You would actually use a new bit in plaster? Doesn't that dull bits
faster than almost anything else?


The OP stated 'drywall' not 'plaster'.

Doesn't drywall mean sheetrock?

Yes, but that still isn't plaster.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:rg5pi.3596$7V6.1871@trnddc03...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Ii0pi.3174$7w.42@trnddc05...
BobK207 wrote:

Mollys are overkill for you application; too much work & harder
to remove & patch

One doesn't - can't - remove them if they have been used properly.


So you're telling me I can't use a little hole saw and drill around
the head so it will fall into the wall? :-)

Easier to just punch it through...but neither way *removes* it.


It removes it from the drywall. :-)

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 21:01:20 -0500, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:10:56 -0500, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:34:50 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

"Eigenvector" wrote:
I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a
bear
to
patch and use, but my experience with plastic anchors is pretty
ugly.

If you take care to drill the right size hole with a new bit, insert
the

You would actually use a new bit in plaster? Doesn't that dull bits
faster than almost anything else?


The OP stated 'drywall' not 'plaster'.

Doesn't drywall mean sheetrock?

Yes, but that still isn't plaster.

Doesn't it dulls bits just as fast?

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 21:01:20 -0500, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:10:56 -0500, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:34:50 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

"Eigenvector" wrote:
I've never actually used a moly bolt. I can see how they'd be a
bear
to
patch and use, but my experience with plastic anchors is pretty
ugly.

If you take care to drill the right size hole with a new bit,
insert
the

You would actually use a new bit in plaster? Doesn't that dull bits
faster than almost anything else?


The OP stated 'drywall' not 'plaster'.

Doesn't drywall mean sheetrock?

Yes, but that still isn't plaster.

Doesn't it dulls bits just as fast?


No

Drywall is like chalk with paper on each side.

Plaster is normally called plaster and lath. Which has little stones in the
mix that dull bits/blades.