It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 16:40:28 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 6, 7:24 pm, wrote:
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks


I think this numbers above are for the heater... Here's the data from
the big fan thing outside:
Goodman Manufacturing Co.
Model No. CPKJ24-1A
Operating volts 197-253
208/230
Min circuit amps 15.3
Compressor RLA 11.5 LRA 60.0
Fan Motor FLA 0.9 HP 1/6
Part No. 14930-177

Go away.

On Jul 6, 7:24 pm, wrote:
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks


I think this numbers above are for the heater... Here's the data from
the big fan thing outside:
Goodman Manufacturing Co.
Model No. CPKJ24-1A
Operating volts 197-253
208/230
Min circuit amps 15.3
Compressor RLA 11.5 LRA 60.0
Fan Motor FLA 0.9 HP 1/6
Part No. 14930-177

wrote:
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

You really need a thermometer. The output of a properly-functioning A/C
should be in the neighborhood of 20 degrees less than the room's ambient
air.

Cost varies dramatically depending on your location and the cost per KWH.
For example, I'm in Houston (same latitude as Cairo) and my electric bill
(for 1500 sq ft), keeping a temp of 72 degrees, was less than yours.

wrote in message
ups.com...
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Running for hours could mean anything more than one hour. There's not
much information there. Let it run overnight. If it can't bring the apartment
down to temperature overnight, then there's something definitely wrong
with it.

Don

On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
....

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?

On Jul 6, 7:45 pm, "Don K" wrote:

Running for hours could mean anything more than one hour. There's not
much information there. Let it run overnight. If it can't bring the apartment
down to temperature overnight, then there's something definitely wrong
with it.

Don

It's been running non-stop since 12:00 PM, it's 7:46PM, and the temp
is still 83 deg, thermostat still at 80 deg. I would not have said
"hours" if it wasn't...

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
...

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?


It must be one of the jerks on alt.hvac.

Bob

I am not a HVAC person, but here are my goodman a/c symtoms, and cure
Goodman 2 1/2 ton split systen
Outside kept running. inside, airhandler fan, wasn't running.
Opening side of airhandler, you could see the coil was frozen, It also
froze part of the condensor coil, outside.

It would be ok for a few days, then freexe up.

The problem was the fan relay, which turns the fan on. It's located in
the airhandler, with the other wiring.

Good luck with it. Someone here might know the problem

wrote in message
ups.com...
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

for 2400sqft with the t-stat set at 76F and outside temps running mid 90s
with humidity at 60 - 90%, my electric bill was only $136

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

Hire a *competent*, licensed, bonded, insured, professionally trained HVAC
technician, instead of depending on some flunkie handiman that couldn't make
it doing anything else.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Cheapest POS there is

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

$75 - $150

Thanks

"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
...

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?


It must be one of the jerks on alt.hvac.


Ya think it might be because its CROSS POSTED TO 3 DIFFERENT GROUPS?????

HeyBub wrote:

wrote:


It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.





You really need a thermometer. The output of a properly-functioning A/C
should be in the neighborhood of 20 degrees less than the room's ambient
air.

Cost varies dramatically depending on your location and the cost per KWH.
For example, I'm in Houston (same latitude as Cairo) and my electric bill
(for 1500 sq ft), keeping a temp of 72 degrees, was less than yours.





Second the use of thermometer. It's the best test.

As mentioned above, if working correctly, the output should be about
20F lower than the input (room temp).

On Jul 6, 8:06 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:
"Bob F" wrote in message

. ..



wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
...

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?

It must be one of the jerks on alt.hvac.

Ya think it might be because its CROSS POSTED TO 3 DIFFERENT GROUPS?????

No, I didn't think that. The post is about repairing A/C, and
saving money. Three relevant groups is well within accepted usage
standards.
A quick check on Wikipedia for "crossposting" says "Crossposting
is usually practiced when material is relevant and of interest to the
readers of more than one newsgroup." and "Crossposting to more than a
small number of newsgroups is likely to be counterproductive. A
commonly suggested limit is three newsgroups."
I've read elsewhere that up to 5 is okay if the groups are
relevant.

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 16:40:28 -0700, wrote:


I think this numbers above are for the heater... Here's the data from
the big fan thing outside:

I love it when you talk technical.

Goodman Manufacturing Co.
Model No. CPKJ24-1A
Operating volts 197-253
208/230
Min circuit amps 15.3
Compressor RLA 11.5 LRA 60.0
Fan Motor FLA 0.9 HP 1/6
Part No. 14930-177

--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

On Fri, 6 Jul 2007 19:06:45 -0500, "Noon-Air"
wrote:


"Bob F" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
...

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?


It must be one of the jerks on alt.hvac.


Ya think it might be because its CROSS POSTED TO 3 DIFFERENT GROUPS?????


Could be.


--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

On Jul 6, 8:24 pm, wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 16:40:28 -0700, wrote:

I think this numbers above are for the heater... Here's the data from
the big fan thing outside:

I love it when you talk technical.

Goodman Manufacturing Co.
Model No. CPKJ24-1A
Operating volts 197-253
208/230
Min circuit amps 15.3
Compressor RLA 11.5 LRA 60.0
Fan Motor FLA 0.9 HP 1/6
Part No. 14930-177


I laughed for the first time in 3 days.

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 16:45:24 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
...

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?

No, Im suggesting you go away.

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 17:22:22 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 6, 8:06 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:
"Bob F" wrote in message

. ..



wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
...

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?

It must be one of the jerks on alt.hvac.

Ya think it might be because its CROSS POSTED TO 3 DIFFERENT GROUPS?????

No, I didn't think that. The post is about repairing A/C, and
saving money. Three relevant groups is well within accepted usage
standards.
A quick check on Wikipedia for "crossposting" says "Crossposting
is usually practiced when material is relevant and of interest to the
readers of more than one newsgroup." and "Crossposting to more than a
small number of newsgroups is likely to be counterproductive. A
commonly suggested limit is three newsgroups."
I've read elsewhere that up to 5 is okay if the groups are
relevant.


That's nice.

You'll find that alt.hvac is not for home-owner ( or renter )
questions.


--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 17:22:22 -0700, wrote:


On Jul 6, 8:06 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:

"Bob F" wrote in message

om...




wrote in message
egroups.com...

On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
...

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?

It must be one of the jerks on alt.hvac.

Ya think it might be because its CROSS POSTED TO 3 DIFFERENT GROUPS?????

No, I didn't think that. The post is about repairing A/C, and
saving money. Three relevant groups is well within accepted usage
standards.
A quick check on Wikipedia for "crossposting" says "Crossposting
is usually practiced when material is relevant and of interest to the
readers of more than one newsgroup." and "Crossposting to more than a
small number of newsgroups is likely to be counterproductive. A
commonly suggested limit is three newsgroups."
I've read elsewhere that up to 5 is okay if the groups are
relevant.



That's nice.

You'll find that alt.hvac is not for home-owner ( or renter )
questions.


How about supporting that with a cite to the charter?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 17:02:40 -0700, "
wrote:

I am not a HVAC person, but here are my goodman a/c symtoms, and cure
Goodman 2 1/2 ton split systen
Outside kept running. inside, airhandler fan, wasn't running.
Opening side of airhandler, you could see the coil was frozen, It also
froze part of the condensor coil, outside.

It would be ok for a few days, then freexe up.

The problem was the fan relay, which turns the fan on. It's located in
the airhandler, with the other wiring.

Good luck with it. Someone here might know the problem

And it isnt you or the maint. man.

Did they fixed it?

What did they say was the problem?

--
Moe Jones
HVAC Service Technician
Energy Equalizers Inc.
Houston, Texas
www.EnergyEqualizers.com


Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

wrote:


Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks



Generally speaking, you can save / spend about 2% for each degree,
although that can vary significantly depending on the indoor / outdoor
difference and the efficiency of your unit..

clams casino wrote:

wrote:


Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks



Generally speaking, you can save / spend about 2% for each degree,
although that can vary significantly depending on the indoor / outdoor
difference and the efficiency of your unit..

http://www.progress-energy.com/custs...lkit/step1.asp
- "Most people can be comfortable with a setting of 78-80 degrees
Fahrenheit, plus you'll save 7 percent to 10 percent of your cooling
costs for each degree above 78."

That seems a bit high vs. other sources I've read, but again, a lot
depends on where you live, etc.


When I lived in Charlotte, 76-78 was fine for us during the summer.
Now that I'm in RI, 74F is on the warm side.

I'd be curious to hear what someone in Phoenix might find comfortable
at this time of the year.

"Jeffrey Lebowski" wrote in message
news:NtOdnb_rX_NvdRPbnZ2dnUVZ_rmjnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Noon-Air" wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message
ups.com...
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

for 2400sqft with the t-stat set at 76F and outside temps running mid 90s
with humidity at 60 - 90%, my electric bill was only $136

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

Hire a *competent*, licensed, bonded, insured, professionally trained
HVAC
technician, instead of depending on some flunkie handiman that couldn't
make
it doing anything else.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Cheapest POS there is

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

$75 - $150


All depends on how many kw of heat strips are firing up along with the
A/C...

Its only a 2 ton and probably has a 5KW strip in it..... a losing
proposition if they are on at the same time

wrote:

On Jul 6, 7:24 pm, wrote:


It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks



I think this numbers above are for the heater... Here's the data from
the big fan thing outside:
Goodman Manufacturing Co.
Model No. CPKJ24-1A
Operating volts 197-253
208/230
Min circuit amps 15.3
Compressor RLA 11.5 LRA 60.0
Fan Motor FLA 0.9 HP 1/6
Part No. 14930-177


That is a 2-Ton condenser for a mere 800-sq.ft. in a dry climate, it
should handle that heatload with ease!
If the interior of your home has a low humidity, a mere 90-F outdoors is
not a heavy load on that system - when it is operating properly.
A room temperature of 76-F should not be difficult to achieve with a
very moderate electric usage.

I cool over 800-Sq.Ft in an old 1930's home with a lot of windows with a
mere Half-Ton window unit. Your unit is rated at 4 Times the BTUH and
mine will pull the temperature down to 76-F with outdoor Heat Index at
104-F.
http://www.udarrell.com/aircondition...harting.h tml


Check my pages & use a thermometer to get all the needed readings.
Post the data. There may be some useful clues in that test data.
Do the outdoor condenser Temp-Split, it can also be helpful. - udarrell

--
WISDOM PRINCIPLE DIRECTED EMPOWERMENT COMMUNICATIONS -
THE REAL POLITICAL ISSUES and WISDOM BASED PEOPLE EMPOWERMENT

http://www.udarrell.com/

http://www.udarrell.com/my_pages2.htm
(My Airconditioning Links, Hunting Shooting, Angus Cattle, etc.)

http://www.udarrell.com/principled_a...ju stice.html

http://www.udarrell.com/recognizing_real_enemies.html

http://jesuschristsavior.net/Beatitudes.html

http://www.antiwar.com/ ***

Reality Is Not An Easy Thing To Be Confronted With, or to Accept!

"Noon-Air" wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message
ups.com...
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

for 2400sqft with the t-stat set at 76F and outside temps running mid 90s
with humidity at 60 - 90%, my electric bill was only $136

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

Hire a *competent*, licensed, bonded, insured, professionally trained HVAC
technician, instead of depending on some flunkie handiman that couldn't
make
it doing anything else.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Cheapest POS there is

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

$75 - $150


All depends on how many kw of heat strips are firing up along with the
A/C...

--

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 6, 8:06 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:
"Bob F" wrote in message

. ..



wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 6, 7:40 pm, ftwhd wrote:
...

Go away.

Are you suggesting that this post is not on-topic to a particualr
group?

It must be one of the jerks on alt.hvac.

Ya think it might be because its CROSS POSTED TO 3 DIFFERENT GROUPS?????

No, I didn't think that. The post is about repairing A/C, and
saving money. Three relevant groups is well within accepted usage
standards.
A quick check on Wikipedia for "crossposting" says "Crossposting
is usually practiced when material is relevant and of interest to the
readers of more than one newsgroup." and "Crossposting to more than a
small number of newsgroups is likely to be counterproductive. A
commonly suggested limit is three newsgroups."
I've read elsewhere that up to 5 is okay if the groups are
relevant.


Despite what you might like to think, your post is not appropriate to the
group alt.hvac...

--

"clams casino" wrote in message
...
wrote:


Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks



Generally speaking, you can save / spend about 2% for each degree,
although that can vary significantly depending on the indoor / outdoor
difference and the efficiency of your unit..

Save a bundle, shut it clear off...

--

On Jul 6, 9:29 pm, clams casino wrote:
wrote:

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks

Generally speaking, you can save / spend about 2% for each degree,
although that can vary significantly depending on the indoor / outdoor
difference and the efficiency of your unit..

The power companies website (Progress Energy, NC) says there's a 10%
increase in cooling costs per degree above a 78 deg setting.

On Jul 6, 8:05 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:
wrote in message
....

Hire a *competent*, licensed, bonded, insured, professionally trained HVAC
technician, instead of depending on some flunkie handiman that couldn't make
it doing anything else.

What specifically do I ask him tomorrow? (Types of HVAC
certifications?) He is being sent by the landlord, which I don't pay
for.

wrote:
On Jul 6, 9:29 pm, clams casino wrote:

wrote:


Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks

Generally speaking, you can save / spend about 2% for each degree,
although that can vary significantly depending on the indoor / outdoor
difference and the efficiency of your unit..


The power companies website (Progress Energy, NC) says there's a 10%
increase in cooling costs per degree above a 78 deg setting.


above??

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

On Jul 6, 10:32 pm, "Jeffrey Lebowski" wrote:
wrote in message
....

Despite what you might like to think, your post is not appropriate to the
group alt.hvac...


The description of the group on Google is "Heating, venting and air
conditioning."
That's what this post is about.

I went and browsed the group and read some relevant threads. There is
no FAQ or charter that was voted on. There are a few people there
that are unhappy that sci.engr.heat-vent-ac didn't get popular...
which may be what this is about. The overwhelming response in the
threads is that alt.hvac is public, and for general discussion.

To anybody else replying to this guys post, note he added a "follow-up
to:" header to alt.****tard, and your newsreader may send it there and
not to the relevant groups. Posting via Google will do that, so just
replace alt.****tard with "alt.home.repair,misc.consumers.frugal-
living,alt.hvac"
This guy is talking about netiquette, and this says a lot about his
post.

On Jul 6, 11:05 pm, CJT wrote:
wrote:
On Jul 6, 9:29 pm, clams casino wrote:

wrote:

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks

Generally speaking, you can save / spend about 2% for each degree,
although that can vary significantly depending on the indoor / outdoor
difference and the efficiency of your unit..

The power companies website (Progress Energy, NC) says there's a 10%
increase in cooling costs per degree above a 78 deg setting.

above??

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Well, I thought if I knew the name of a couple certifications I could
mention them.
Just searched Google - found EPA Section 608 Certification, NEMI -
TABB certification, NATE, and HVAC Excellence.

On Jul 6, 10:55 pm, wrote:
On Jul 6, 8:05 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:

wrote in message
...

Hire a *competent*, licensed, bonded, insured, professionally trained HVAC
technician, instead of depending on some flunkie handiman that couldn't make
it doing anything else.

What specifically do I ask him tomorrow? (Types of HVAC
certifications?) He is being sent by the landlord, which I don't pay
for.

Just searched Google - found EPA Section 608 Certification, NEMI -
TABB certification, NATE, and HVAC Excellence.

Comments?

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...


Cost varies dramatically depending on your location and the cost per KWH.
For example, I'm in Houston (same latitude as Cairo) and my electric bill
(for 1500 sq ft), keeping a temp of 72 degrees, was less than yours.


I'd sure hope so!!!

"Don K" wrote in message
. ..


If it can't bring the apartment
down to temperature overnight, then there's something definitely wrong
with it.


A $320 electric bill, ya think????

wrote in message
ups.com...
I am not a HVAC person, but here are my goodman a/c symtoms, and cure
Goodman 2 1/2 ton split systen
Outside kept running. inside, airhandler fan, wasn't running.
Opening side of airhandler, you could see the coil was frozen, It also
froze part of the condensor coil, outside.


Outside coil froze up too my ass!

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 6, 8:05 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:
wrote in message
...

Hire a *competent*, licensed, bonded, insured, professionally trained
HVAC
technician, instead of depending on some flunkie handiman that couldn't
make
it doing anything else.

What specifically do I ask him tomorrow? (Types of HVAC
certifications?) He is being sent by the landlord, which I don't pay
for.


Good luck with that!!! LOL

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 6, 10:55 pm, wrote:
On Jul 6, 8:05 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:

wrote in message
...

Hire a *competent*, licensed, bonded, insured, professionally trained
HVAC
technician, instead of depending on some flunkie handiman that
couldn't make
it doing anything else.

What specifically do I ask him tomorrow? (Types of HVAC
certifications?) He is being sent by the landlord, which I don't pay
for.

Just searched Google - found EPA Section 608 Certification, NEMI -
TABB certification, NATE, and HVAC Excellence.

Comments?


Yeah, you're not footing the bill.

wrote in message
ps.com...
On Jul 6, 9:29 pm, clams casino wrote:
wrote:

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks

Generally speaking, you can save / spend about 2% for each degree,
although that can vary significantly depending on the indoor / outdoor
difference and the efficiency of your unit..

The power companies website (Progress Energy, NC) says there's a 10%
increase in cooling costs per degree above a 78 deg setting.


So set it at 88 (100% savings) on a hot 105 degree day and it should cost
you nothing!!!! LMAO