wrote in message
ps.com...
On Jul 8, 8:45 pm, udarrell wrote:
...
I thought you wanted an AC fixed or at least to be enabled to be
comfortable?
What is this nonsense all about, winning a dumb
argument.http://www.udarrell.com/ac-trouble-shooting-chart.html
Read & learn some things that can be helpful. It is all free... . -
udarrell


I browsed part of your site, and I appreciate your input. I don't know
anything about fixing the A/C, and I don't have time to learn it. The
site sheds light on all the different things that can be wrong. I
think I'll print it out and attach it to my letter to the landlord, as
an example of all the things that should be looked at, while that
repairman spent literally 2 minutes with what looked like a volt meter
before saying "it's working fine."


Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...

too bad you're not mute


Too bad you're an IDIOT.

Must suck to look in a mirror, Eh?

On Jul 9, 2:20 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message

oups.com...

too bad you're not mute

Too bad you're an IDIOT.

Must suck to look in a mirror, Eh?

Well done,every one of your replies did not address the content of
post to which you replied...must take a fair amount of effort to do
that.

No substance, just insults & name calling ......keep up those
valuable contributions.

Too bad you're an IDIOT.


Next will it be "your mom dresses you funny" ?

or the always rather powerful "you suck"

OR "you're an IDIOT"


oh, wait...you used that shining example of originality

Come on now....is that the best you can do?

remember no references to actual post content.

"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Jul 9, 10:12 am, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

wrote:

SNIP HAPPENS




I hear you can do that in Illinois, or that use to be the case - maybe
other places.

Used- past tense, no use.

Try to learn correct grammer. You might get better SAT scores with
which to impress us all.


Complaining about newsgroup grammer and spelling... Why am I replying?
Well, my CLEP w/essay was above the 99th &... (that was standardized
based on test results from people who just completed English 101).
Didn't take English 101...


Wow. I'm impressed. Not.

Is your AC working yet?

Have you figured out how to get it fixed now?

Or are you still waiting for your letter, envelope and stamp to fix the
AC?

Not too smart, and still wrapped far too tight.

Having an advanced degree in liberal arts only means you don't have to wear
the paper hat when you ask "Do you want fries with that??"

On Sun, 8 Jul 2007 18:43:24 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

The electricity savings may very well pay for the cost of the
repair guy. From what it sounds (from here) you need the outdoor
unit taken apart, and cleaned with chemicals that AC guys use.

Why do you constantly parrot what someone else has already said and
act like you know wtf your talking about?

What do you do, sit and wait for several answers and then pick the
most logical to repeat?

Gordon wrote:
Logan Shaw wrote in news:468ff118$0$30622
:

Gordon wrote:
Here are few things that need to be checked.

1)Outside coil should be hosed off at least once a year.
If you have access to a hose bib and a hoes you can
do this yourself.
Don't you think using a hoe would damage the coil? On the other
hand, if it is *really* overgrown with grass or vines or something...

- Logan


Yes it would smartass. You know I ment Hose.

He meant HO like in the OP.

Logan Shaw wrote:
wrote:
I've been here for over a year and a half, and never had an electric
bill like that, the A/C has never ran continously like it is, and I
never had any problems getting the temp down to 76 deg.

Prior to that, I did not know that this was not your first summer in
this apartment. Faced with that new information, I would say your
air conditioner is in fact broken.

- Logan

Simply BRILLIANT!! Wow!

wrote:
On Jul 9, 10:12 am, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
wrote:

SNIP HAPPENS



I hear you can do that in Illinois, or that use to be the case - maybe
other places.
Used- past tense, no use.

Try to learn correct grammer. You might get better SAT scores with
which to impress us all.

Complaining about newsgroup grammer and spelling... Why am I replying?
Well, my CLEP w/essay was above the 99th &... (that was standardized
based on test results from people who just completed English 101).
Didn't take English 101...


big ****IN deal! Now GET LOST!

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...

remember no references to actual post content.


I can at least read the thread and know the difference between AM/PM. I also
know it takes HOURS of run time to get a $320 electric bill.


You don't!!!!!!!

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
First, it sounds like the outdoor unit needs to be cleaned.

Second, it's not possible to really accurately predict your power
bill.


Welcome to another HVAC HACK!!

Yeah Chris, have you busted any door jams lately?

wrote in message
ps.com...
On Jul 8, 1:15 pm, Logan Shaw wrote:
wrote:
On Jul 7, 5:42 pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 09:27:18 -0700, wrote:
"Why do you think it should be 20 deg
different?" he says. I told him that's what I found on the internet.
He checked more wires with his probe for another 5 minutes, then
checked the temperature again. It now said 64 deg (18 deg
different).
Now the thing is working! Darn. It's much much harder to fix most
things when they are working right.
I'm not sure what you mean. Are you being sarcastic? He didn't adjust
anything, he was just using something that looked like a voltmeter
(and scratching his head, without actually doing that). Telling him
the A/C couldn't get the apt down below 83 deg all day didn't mean
anything to him.

The function of the A/C unit *itself* is to pump out air that's about
15F to 20F colder than the air that comes in (or actually, whatever
temperature difference is in its specifications). If it's doing that,
then *it* is working.

Now, in a larger context, the purpose of the A/C unit within your
actual apartment unit is to achieve a comfortable indoor temperature.
It is possible that the A/C unit is working perfectly according to its
specs but can't do that. In that case, the problem might be that the
A/C unit is simply undersized for the load it's having to handle.
That doesn't mean the A/C unit is broken. It means that you have the
wrong A/C unit. *If* this is the case, it cannot be fixed by tinkering
with the A/C unit.

To make a car analogy, if I try to tow a large trailer up a mountain
with a Toyota Corolla and I fail, does this mean the Toyota Corolla
is broken? No, and if I start looking in the engine compartment to
see what's "wrong" with the Toyota's engine, I am looking in the wrong
place.

The point is, perhaps the problem is that whoever designed the apartment
complex failed to choose appropriate A/C units given the size of the
apartments, the amount of insulation (which may be NONE), and variables
like that. And maybe they chose A/C units which are really energy-
inefficient. I don't know how common this type of bad engineering is,
but it seems like a plausible explanation for your situation.

- Logan


I've been here for over a year and a half, and never had an electric
bill like that, the A/C has never ran continously like it is, and I
never had any problems getting the temp down to 76 deg.

The unit couldn't get the temperature below 83 the other day, when the
temperature outside was ONLY 90 deg with 37% humidity.


Carie, Logan is lost as to what the actual problem is...

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
someone wrote:

keep jumping on the landlord

Just flat tell the SOB

call him on the phone dozens of times a day

Boy, this adversarial relationship between tenant and landlord (neighbor
and neighbor, boss and employee, contractor and homeowner, etc. ad
infinitum) that keeps getting advocated really irritates the **** out of
me. I'm a tenant and a landlord, and I have fantastic, cooperative,
sane, mutually beneficial relationships with the other party in both
circumstances. Luck? No. Intention.


Ever heard the term "slumlord"?

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Noon-Air" wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
someone wrote:

keep jumping on the landlord

Just flat tell the SOB

call him on the phone dozens of times a day

Boy, this adversarial relationship between tenant and landlord
(neighbor
and neighbor, boss and employee, contractor and homeowner, etc. ad
infinitum) that keeps getting advocated really irritates the **** out
of
me. I'm a tenant and a landlord, and I have fantastic, cooperative,
sane, mutually beneficial relationships with the other party in both
circumstances. Luck? No. Intention.

Maybe because you don't have to deal with slumlords that don't care
about
anything but the money going into their pocket.
If her landlord cared about the tenent at all, he would have sent a pro
to
begin with, not some minimum wage flake.

I don't choose to do business with people of no character. So no, you're
absolutely correct, I don't have to deal with slumlords. And I never
will, because I will never rent from one. Or be one, either.


That's obviously not the case here.

"udarrell" wrote in message
. net...
wrote:

On Jul 8, 1:15 pm, Logan Shaw wrote:


wrote:


On Jul 7, 5:42 pm, mm wrote:


On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 09:27:18 -0700, wrote:


"Why do you think it should be 20 deg
different?" he says. I told him that's what I found on the internet.
He checked more wires with his probe for another 5 minutes, then
checked the temperature again. It now said 64 deg (18 deg different).


Now the thing is working! Darn. It's much much harder to fix most
things when they are working right.


I'm not sure what you mean. Are you being sarcastic? He didn't adjust
anything, he was just using something that looked like a voltmeter
(and scratching his head, without actually doing that). Telling him
the A/C couldn't get the apt down below 83 deg all day didn't mean
anything to him.


The function of the A/C unit *itself* is to pump out air that's about
15F to 20F colder than the air that comes in (or actually, whatever
temperature difference is in its specifications). If it's doing that,
then *it* is working.

Now, in a larger context, the purpose of the A/C unit within your
actual apartment unit is to achieve a comfortable indoor temperature.
It is possible that the A/C unit is working perfectly according to its
specs but can't do that. In that case, the problem might be that the
A/C unit is simply undersized for the load it's having to handle.
That doesn't mean the A/C unit is broken. It means that you have the
wrong A/C unit. *If* this is the case, it cannot be fixed by tinkering
with the A/C unit.

To make a car analogy, if I try to tow a large trailer up a mountain
with a Toyota Corolla and I fail, does this mean the Toyota Corolla
is broken? No, and if I start looking in the engine compartment to
see what's "wrong" with the Toyota's engine, I am looking in the wrong
place.

The point is, perhaps the problem is that whoever designed the apartment
complex failed to choose appropriate A/C units given the size of the
apartments, the amount of insulation (which may be NONE), and variables
like that. And maybe they chose A/C units which are really energy-
inefficient. I don't know how common this type of bad engineering is,
but it seems like a plausible explanation for your situation.

- Logan


I've been here for over a year and a half, and never had an electric
bill like that, the A/C has never ran continously like it is, and I
never had any problems getting the temp down to 76 deg.

The unit couldn't get the temperature below 83 the other day, when the
temperature outside was ONLY 90 deg with 37% humidity.


That is a very low humidity & if the conditioned space is also low in
humidity the latent-heatload will be minimal, allowing the sensible
heatload to be removed & transferred outside much faster. Pull down the
shades & close the drapes to keep the radiant heat from entering the
conditioned space. Vent the bathroom after taking showers, don't cook
things that steam up the kitchen, etc., the latent heatload reduces the
evaporators Sensible (or Temperature Reducing) capacity!
You can do a lot to keep the heatload much lower; do those things &
reduce your utility bills!
- udarrell


Yeah that's the ticket, alter your everyday activities so you can get by
with a window unit.

Screw getting the central air repaired!!!!! ROLLEYES

"Tekkie®" wrote in message
. ..
Logan Shaw wrote:
wrote:
I've been here for over a year and a half, and never had an electric
bill like that, the A/C has never ran continously like it is, and I
never had any problems getting the temp down to 76 deg.

Prior to that, I did not know that this was not your first summer in
this apartment. Faced with that new information, I would say your
air conditioner is in fact broken.

- Logan

Simply BRILLIANT!! Wow!


LOL

There's some bright ones here, Tekkie! :-)

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
If the Toyota worked fine, for years. Now it's got a dirty air
filter, carbon on the sparks, and the ignition timing is off.
Does that mean the Toyota is under sized, and you need a
Suburban?


Chris STFU, you're talking out your ass again!

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 8, 1:40 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jul 7, 5:42 pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 09:27:18 -0700, wrote:
On Jul 6, 7:24 pm, wrote:
...
"Why do you think it should be 20 deg
different?" he says. I told him that's what I found on the internet.
He checked more wires with his probe for another 5 minutes, then
checked the temperature again. It now said 64 deg (18 deg
different).

Now the thing is working! Darn. It's much much harder to fix most
things when they are working right. Even things that only work
intermittently. You pretty much have to catch it when it's not
working to be able to fix many things.

I'm not sure what you mean. Are you being sarcastic? He didn't adjust
anything, he was just using something that looked like a voltmeter
(and scratching his head, without actually doing that). Telling him
the A/C couldn't get the apt down below 83 deg all day didn't mean
anything to him.

Quit screwing with that loser, call a pro to fix it, pay the man then
deduct
it from your rent.

I hear you can do that in Illinois, or that use to be the case - maybe
other places. The contract says no tenant repairs or improvements
will be deducted from the rent. Of course that wouldn't matter if the
contract was in IL because the law overrules it, but I don't believe
that's the case here.


Is it in the contract that your living space has air conditioning?

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
The electricity savings may very well pay for the cost of the
repair guy. From what it sounds (from here) you need the outdoor
unit taken apart, and cleaned with chemicals that AC guys use.


Just what information has she posted that lead you to that conclusion?

Guessing as usual.

"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:

SNIP HAPPENS


I hear you can do that in Illinois, or that use to be the case - maybe
other places.

Used- past tense, no use.

Try to learn correct grammer. You might get better SAT scores with
which to impress us all.



She will, right after everyone that's posted to this group understands the
difference between AM/PM and operating hours!!!!!

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
It sure sounds like her apartment guy isn't an AC tech.


Is it you???

On Jul 9, 11:54 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jul 8, 1:40 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...

On Jul 7, 5:42 pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 09:27:18 -0700, wrote:
On Jul 6, 7:24 pm, wrote:
...
"Why do you think it should be 20 deg
different?" he says. I told him that's what I found on the internet.
He checked more wires with his probe for another 5 minutes, then
checked the temperature again. It now said 64 deg (18 deg
different).

Now the thing is working! Darn. It's much much harder to fix most
things when they are working right. Even things that only work
intermittently. You pretty much have to catch it when it's not
working to be able to fix many things.

I'm not sure what you mean. Are you being sarcastic? He didn't adjust
anything, he was just using something that looked like a voltmeter
(and scratching his head, without actually doing that). Telling him
the A/C couldn't get the apt down below 83 deg all day didn't mean
anything to him.

Quit screwing with that loser, call a pro to fix it, pay the man then
deduct
it from your rent.

I hear you can do that in Illinois, or that use to be the case - maybe
other places. The contract says no tenant repairs or improvements
will be deducted from the rent. Of course that wouldn't matter if the
contract was in IL because the law overrules it, but I don't believe
that's the case here.

Is it in the contract that your living space has air conditioning?

Yes, and the same list is of things the landlord agrees to maintain.

On Jul 9, 5:17 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
wrote in message

ps.com... On Jul 8, 8:45 pm, udarrell wrote:
...
I thought you wanted an AC fixed or at least to be enabled to be
comfortable?
What is this nonsense all about, winning a dumb

argument.http://www.udarrell.com/ac-trouble-shooting-chart.html

Read & learn some things that can be helpful. It is all free... . -
udarrell

I browsed part of your site, and I appreciate your input. I don't know
anything about fixing the A/C, and I don't have time to learn it. The
site sheds light on all the different things that can be wrong. I
think I'll print it out and attach it to my letter to the landlord, as
an example of all the things that should be looked at, while that
repairman spent literally 2 minutes with what looked like a volt meter
before saying "it's working fine."

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

On Jul 9, 2:18 pm, jJim McLaughlin wrote:
wrote:
On Jul 9, 10:21 am, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

wrote:

SNIP HAPPENS

I'll be writing a detailed letter to the landlord, and the state
licensing board (they may have some input even though he apparently
doesn' have to know what he's doing).

You go girl. Write that letter. It will certainly fix your AC unit.
Amazing what can
be done with a stamp amd an envelope.

In the mean time, you will have yet another $ 320 - 350 power bill to pay.

A smart persom would get a real repair person in to fix the unit and
pay that person directly, thereby avoiding the ongoing excess power bills.

But, as you stated, your IQ is 135, so you are obviouly not smart enough
to figure that out.

Not too smart, clearly wrapped too tight.

As spomeone els said, it must suck to be you.

SNIP HAPPENS

Again, since you are too stupid to figure it out, I'll repeat:

YOU GO GIRL. WRITE THAT LETTER. IT WILL CERTAINLY FIX YOUR AC UNIT.
AMAZING WHAT CAN BE DONE WITH A STAMP AMD AN ENVELOPE.

IN THE MEAN TIME, YOU WILL HAVE YET ANOTHER $ 320 - 350 POWER BILL TO PAY.

A SMART PERSOM WOULD GET A REAL REPAIR PERSON IN TO FIX THE UNIT AND
PAY THAT PERSON DIRECTLY, THEREBY AVOIDING THE ONGOING EXCESS POWER BILLS.

BUT, AS YOU STATED, YOUR IQ IS 135, SO YOU ARE OBVIOULY NOT SMART ENOUGH
TO FIGURE THAT OUT.

NOT TOO SMART, CLEARLY WRAPPED TOO TIGHT.

AS SOMEONE ELSE SAID, IT MUST SUCK TO BE YOU.

Getting warm there this afternoon?

Again, I never said my IQ was 135. Go back and read that again.

On Jul 9, 2:22 pm, jJim McLaughlin wrote:
wrote:

SNIP HAPPENS



I never boasted about my SAT score, and I never said what it was. I
only implied it would be higher than that, and the motivation wasn't
boasting, it was about compatibility.

Umm humm, yeah, right.

You're about as compatable as a scorpion.

And have he interpersonal and problem solving skills of one as well.

Getting warm there tis afternoon?

You SNIPPED the ?? ...

wrote in message
oups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.


The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to diagnose what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data, everything is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 9, 11:54 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jul 8, 1:40 pm, "Noon-Air" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...

On Jul 7, 5:42 pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 09:27:18 -0700, wrote:
On Jul 6, 7:24 pm, wrote:
...
"Why do you think it should be 20 deg
different?" he says. I told him that's what I found on the
internet.
He checked more wires with his probe for another 5 minutes, then
checked the temperature again. It now said 64 deg (18 deg
different).

Now the thing is working! Darn. It's much much harder to fix
most
things when they are working right. Even things that only work
intermittently. You pretty much have to catch it when it's not
working to be able to fix many things.

I'm not sure what you mean. Are you being sarcastic? He didn't
adjust
anything, he was just using something that looked like a voltmeter
(and scratching his head, without actually doing that). Telling
him
the A/C couldn't get the apt down below 83 deg all day didn't mean
anything to him.

Quit screwing with that loser, call a pro to fix it, pay the man
then
deduct
it from your rent.

I hear you can do that in Illinois, or that use to be the case - maybe
other places. The contract says no tenant repairs or improvements
will be deducted from the rent. Of course that wouldn't matter if the
contract was in IL because the law overrules it, but I don't believe
that's the case here.

Is it in the contract that your living space has air conditioning?

Yes, and the same list is of things the landlord agrees to maintain.


And he's not, so get it repaired and have him reimburse you or take it off
the rent.

On Jul 9, 8:30 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message

oups.com...

remember no references to actual post content.

I can at least read the thread and know the difference between AM/PM. I also
know it takes HOURS of run time to get a $320 electric bill.

You don't!!!!!!!

Try a bit harder, you're not reading carefully enough....I merely
suggested she use noon & midnight instead of 12pm & 12am to avoid
confusion

I certainly do know how many operating hours it takes to generate a
$320 month's electric bill...

you know.......... tons, btu/hr, kilowatt-hrs, efficiency ........
all that REALLY complicated technical stuff that ONLY big bad HVAC
techs know....

It's only HVAC, it ain't rocket science.....don't kid yourself that's
its harder than it is.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

If the Toyota worked fine, for years. Now it's got a dirty air
filter, carbon on the sparks, and the ignition timing is off.
Does that mean the Toyota is under sized, and you need a
Suburban?



Only if you live in TX.

Carie?
#1 I have posted before from what I read in posting?
If you apartment Is 1500 Sq. feet, tomb rule "you need 3 ton".

#2 If you AC unit is drawing only around 15 amps at full load
your unit is only 1,1/2 ton "not big enough".

#3 If you unit is freezing out side as some one posted?
you have heat pump and it is working in reveres.

#4 If you unit is heat pump and it has booster heaters for
winter see that are not ON at same time while is cooling.

#5 If your unit have high back pressure and low discharge
pressure it is good possibility that compressor is going bad.

#6 If unit is heat pump you definitely need to check
operating pressures looking at unit would not help.

#7 If it is heat pump mechanic must check switching or
diverting solenoid's which make change from winter to
summer condition.

#8 Last but not least source power and that compressor
is running continuously and not shutting down intermittently

I believe you have stated that at one time was working ok
Then check # 3,4,5,6,7&8
Tony
www.cas-environ.com



wrote in message
ups.com...
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks

You really need to get some training and/or experience before you go
spouting off a bunch of BS

"Tony" wrote in message
news:iDNki.22391$z64.15349@trnddc07...
Carie?
#1 I have posted before from what I read in posting?
If you apartment Is 1500 Sq. feet, tomb rule "you need 3 ton".

There is no such thing as "rule of thumb". 1500 sqft could *NEED* as little
as 1 1/2 ton, or as much as 4 ton(or more). Unless you do the calculations,
your doing nothing but guessing.

#2 If you AC unit is drawing only around 15 amps at full load
your unit is only 1,1/2 ton "not big enough".

Ummmm......no. I have a customer with a 4 ton heat pump compressor that
only draws 13.1 amps(measured), and less than 15 amps total(measured).

#3 If you unit is freezing out side as some one posted?
you have heat pump and it is working in reveres.

Guess again..... overcharge on a piston system will do the same thing.

#4 If you unit is heat pump and it has booster heaters for
winter see that are not ON at same time while is cooling.

Not a normal scenerio unless a new thermostat was installed by somebody that
doesn't have a clue, or a sequencer went bad

#5 If your unit have high back pressure and low discharge
pressure it is good possibility that compressor is going bad.

Not necessarily, there could be a lot of other issues that will exhibit
simular symptoms

#6 If unit is heat pump you definitely need to check
operating pressures looking at unit would not help.

Same as *ANY* other heating/cooling system. If you don't take quantitative
measurements, your only guessing.

#7 If it is heat pump mechanic must check switching or
diverting solenoid's which make change from winter to
summer condition.

Not applicable with this problem

#8 Last but not least source power and that compressor
is running continuously and not shutting down intermittently

That would cause all kinds of other problems.

I believe you have stated that at one time was working ok
Then check # 3,4,5,6,7&8
Tony
www.cas-environ.com



wrote in message
ups.com...
It's 90 deg. outside, humidity is 37%. The A/C is set to 80 deg. The
temp in the apartment is at 83 deg, and hasn't gone below that. The A/
C has been running non-stop for hours. The temp out of the vents is
colder than the air in the apartment, but not a lot colder. (I don't
have a thermometer.)

Maintenance fixed the A/C only a month ago when it completely quit
working. Our electric bill that month was $320 for a 800 sq ft
apartment.

Maintenance is coming tomorrow. How do I make sure they fix the unit
right, or make the landlord replace it if it won't work properly? The
electric bill is outragous.

The unit doesn't show a manufacturing date, and I can't find the model
no. on the manufacturer's website. Here's what the stickers say:
Goodman Manufacturing Co, 1501 Seamist Dr,
Houston, TX 77008
Model No. AW30-05C
Part No. 20203-23
Regrig 22
Design PSIG 150
Heater Amps 208/240V
Motor 1PH 60HZ 3.5 Amps 1/3 HP
Single Circuit 17.3/20.0
Min Circuit Ampicity 26/29
Max Overcurrent Protection 30/30
UL Listed - G0587770080

Also, once the unit works properly, how much more does it cost to keep
the apartment at 76 as opposed to 80 (above conditions)?

Thanks

Oh my... you did it again. Since you're a refrigeration tech, why don't you
keep your mouth shut when it comes to residential air conditioning systems??

Replies follow...


"Tony" wrote in message
news:iDNki.22391$z64.15349@trnddc07...
Carie?
#1 I have posted before from what I read in posting?
If you apartment Is 1500 Sq. feet, tomb rule "you need 3 ton".


She has a 800 sq ft apartment. I know it's hard for you to know this as it's
in her FIRST post!!
She also has a Goodman 2 ton unit, as this is in her SECOND post!!


#2 If you AC unit is drawing only around 15 amps at full load
your unit is only 1,1/2 ton "not big enough".


Then how can Goodman get by with the following information for a 2-ton
unit??

"Compressor RLA 11.5"


#3 If you unit is freezing out side as some one posted?
you have heat pump and it is working in reveres.


Nothing has been said about the unit freezing. Nothing has been said about a
heat pump. Even though, by the model number it is a heat pump. But the fact
remains that it doesn't even have to bee a heat pump for freezing conditions
to show up!!


#4 If you unit is heat pump and it has booster heaters for
winter see that are not ON at same time while is cooling.


Wow, now there's an original thought. rolleyes
Why don't you check the model number? It is a heat pump!


#5 If your unit have high back pressure and low discharge
pressure it is good possibility that compressor is going bad.


Have you saw anything posted on the operating pressures??


#6 If unit is heat pump you definitely need to check
operating pressures looking at unit would not help.


Once again, model number says it's a HP!
But even if it wasn't a HP, we would still need the operating pressures and
temperatures!!


#7 If it is heat pump mechanic must check switching or
diverting solenoid's which make change from winter to
summer condition.


Once again, it's a HP.


#8 Last but not least source power and that compressor
is running continuously and not shutting down intermittently


Brillant, just brillant!!


I believe you have stated that at one time was working ok
Then check # 3,4,5,6,7&8
Tony
www.cas-environ.com


I believe that you need training in the HVAC field, if you want to actually
post helpful information!

"Noon-Air" wrote in message
. ..

#3 If you unit is freezing out side as some one posted?
you have heat pump and it is working in reveres.

Guess again..... overcharge on a piston system will do the same thing.

???

On Jul 10, 8:51 am, "Noon-Air" wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message

...





wrote in message
roups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to
take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to diagnose
what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data, everything
is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your
unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed
recently.... like in the last 2 months.

I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been
there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the
cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or
"disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were
set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the
house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was,
in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then
when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will
shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman
could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran
for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the
instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's
about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from
another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over;
the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns
away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return.
R
---------------------------------------------------
T
-------------
|
| Living Room
|

I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the
temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than
what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the
thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with
the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is
not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the
other side of the door).

The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes,
might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than
83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.

I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above)
bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get
through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as
it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the
same.

On Jul 10, 1:04 pm, wrote:
On Jul 10, 8:51 am, "Noon-Air" wrote:



kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message

.. .

wrote in message
roups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to
take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to diagnose
what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data, everything
is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your
unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed
recently.... like in the last 2 months.

I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been
there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the
cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or
"disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were
set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the
house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was,
in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then
when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will
shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman
could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran
for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the
instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's
about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from
another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over;
the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns
away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return.
R
---------------------------------------------------
T
-------------
|
| Living Room
|

I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the
temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than
what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the
thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with
the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is
not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the
other side of the door).

The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes,
might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than
83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.

I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above)
bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get
through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as
it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the
same.

Maybe I should add that 15 minutes after the A/C shuts off (or less?)
the bedroom (above) and Living room are at the same temperature - 78.
Surprised me a bit...

On Jul 10, 1:22 pm, wrote:
On Jul 10, 1:04 pm, wrote:



On Jul 10, 8:51 am, "Noon-Air" wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message

.. .

wrote in message
roups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to
take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to diagnose
what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data, everything
is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your
unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed
recently.... like in the last 2 months.

I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been
there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the
cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or
"disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were
set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the
house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was,
in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then
when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will
shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman
could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran
for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the
instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's
about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from
another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over;
the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns
away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return.
R
---------------------------------------------------
T
-------------
|
| Living Room
|

I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the
temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than
what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the
thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with
the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is
not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the
other side of the door).

The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes,
might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than
83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.

I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above)
bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get
through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as
it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the
same.

Maybe I should add that 15 minutes after the A/C shuts off (or less?)
the bedroom (above) and Living room are at the same temperature - 78.
Surprised me a bit...

Correction - the bedroom was still a couple degrees cooler...

On Jul 10, 1:22 pm, wrote:
On Jul 10, 1:04 pm, wrote:



On Jul 10, 8:51 am, "Noon-Air" wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message

.. .

wrote in message
roups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to
take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to diagnose
what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data, everything
is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your
unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed
recently.... like in the last 2 months.

I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been
there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the
cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or
"disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were
set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the
house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was,
in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then
when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will
shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman
could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran
for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the
instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's
about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from
another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over;
the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns
away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return.
R
---------------------------------------------------
T
-------------
|
| Living Room
|

I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the
temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than
what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the
thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with
the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is
not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the
other side of the door).

The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes,
might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than
83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.

I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above)
bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get
through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as
it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the
same.

Maybe I should add that 15 minutes after the A/C shuts off (or less?)
the bedroom (above) and Living room are at the same temperature - 78.
Surprised me a bit...

Correction - the bedroom was still a couple degrees cooler...

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 10, 8:51 am, "Noon-Air" wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message

...





wrote in message
roups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures
for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to
take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to
diagnose
what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data,
everything
is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your
unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed
recently.... like in the last 2 months.

I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been
there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the
cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or
"disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were
set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the
house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was,
in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then
when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will
shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman
could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran
for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the
instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's
about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from
another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over;
the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns
away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return.
R
---------------------------------------------------
T
-------------
|
| Living Room
|

I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the
temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than
what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the
thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with
the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is
not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the
other side of the door).

The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes,
might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than
83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.

I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above)
bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get
through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as
it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the
same.


Are you sure he didn't mess with the blower speed?

On Jul 10, 2:06 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jul 10, 8:51 am, "Noon-Air" wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message

.. .

wrote in message
roups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures
for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to
take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to
diagnose
what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data,
everything
is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your
unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed
recently.... like in the last 2 months.

I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been
there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the
cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or
"disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were
set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the
house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was,
in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then
when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will
shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman
could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran
for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the
instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's
about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from
another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over;
the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns
away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return.
R
---------------------------------------------------
T
-------------
|
| Living Room
|

I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the
temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than
what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the
thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with
the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is
not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the
other side of the door).

The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes,
might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than
83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.

I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above)
bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get
through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as
it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the
same.

Are you sure he didn't mess with the blower speed?

I don't know. He wouldn't talk, and left very nervously when I asked
him for his contractors license #, as I previously described.

On Jul 10, 2:06 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jul 10, 8:51 am, "Noon-Air" wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message

.. .

wrote in message
roups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures
for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to
take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to
diagnose
what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data,
everything
is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your
unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed
recently.... like in the last 2 months.

I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been
there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the
cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or
"disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were
set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the
house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was,
in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then
when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will
shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman
could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran
for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the
instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's
about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from
another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over;
the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns
away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return.
R
---------------------------------------------------
T
-------------
|
| Living Room
|

I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the
temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than
what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the
thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with
the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is
not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the
other side of the door).

The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes,
might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than
83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.

I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above)
bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get
through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as
it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the
same.

Are you sure he didn't mess with the blower speed?

I don't know how long the pressure out of the vents has been like
that, the noise I was referring to was from a few months ago. I don't
know if he changed it.

On Jul 10, 2:06 pm, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jul 10, 8:51 am, "Noon-Air" wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message

.. .

wrote in message
roups.com...

Never saw a volt meter that was capable of measuring line pressures
for
calculating superheat and subcooling. VBG

Looked very odd to me, and I don't know anything about fixing A/Cs.

The tech needs to hook up gauges to the outdoor unit. He also needs to
take
temperature reading on both of the outdoor lines. They need to
diagnose
what
is actually going on with this unit. Without the proper data,
everything
is
a guess. Which is why NOBODY here can tell you what's wrong with your
unit.

When you get the following information, one can help you.

Suction Pressure
Head Pressure
Suction Line Temp
Liquid Line Temp
Ambient Temp
Condenser Temp
Indoor Return Temp
Indoor Supply Temp
Indoor WetBulb Temp
Compressor Amps
Rated Compressor Amps 11.5

And make sure the electric elements are not ON!

Ummm...... nobody has asked if there has been a new thermostat installed
recently.... like in the last 2 months.

I was just reading about thermostats... It's the same one that been
there for a least 1.5 years. It's a Totaline P474-0100. I changed the
cycles per hour to 4 yesterday (it was 6; can be 2-6, "no limit," or
"disable 5 minute compressor lockout"). I read that if the cycles were
set to low the unit would simply not run enough to be able to cool the
house. (And may not control the humidity as well.) The thinking was,
in the mean time I'll live with it hot for part of the day, and then
when it's cooler and 4 cycles will take it down to 78 then it will
shut off because that's the temp setting. BUT, it appears the Goodman
could care less what the thermostat says about cycles per hour. It ran
for 2 straight hours. The fan is on Auto. I also noticed the
instructions say not to install it near a register or the return. It's
about 7'2" from the return, (at the same height, facing it from
another (parallel) wall, not directly across - about 6'6" feet over;
the walls are 3 feet apart; the wall with the thermostat ends (turns
away 90 deg) after 1'6" towards the return.
R
---------------------------------------------------
T
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|
| Living Room
|

I started taking temp readings, as suggested. In the Living Room the
temperature out of the register is consistently 15 degrees less than
what the thermostat says (and I set the thermometer on top the
thermostat to make sure they read the same...). In one bedroom (with
the door shut) the temperature will be 71 degrees if the register is
not shut (it's not), while the temp in the living room is 78 (the
other side of the door).

The repair guy, who I thought didn't do anything in those 2 minutes,
might have actually done something, as at least the apt is cooler than
83 now. But the A/C is running practically non-stop.

I also noticed than when I shut the vent in the (71 deg, above)
bedroom it's not making the noise it used to - some air used to get
through anyway. Not anymore - the air is not blowing nearly as hard as
it used to. Which registers are open and which doors are shut is the
same.

Are you sure he didn't mess with the blower speed?

I don't know how long the pressure out of the vents has been like
that, the noise I was referring to was from a few months ago. I don't
know if he changed it.