Hello, quick question for the experts out there. I live in the
midwest and have a sump pump in the basement. PVC from sump pump runs
up the basement wall and across a 10 foot ceiling section and connects
directly to the city sewer system underground (I think).

Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.
Replaced that myself. Still a lot of vibration. Had a plumber come
out...he recommended a new sump pump as our home is 12-years old.
Plumber installed that, and told me to secure the ceiling PVC better
to remove vibration. Winter came and I forgot about it. ;(

Now that we've had some thaws, vibration came back worse than ever. I
got some hangers and secured the PVC as solid as possible. Now, the
vibration is localized to the check valve, and it lasts like 30-45
seconds after the pump cycles. No banging, just loud vibration.

I had saved the original check valve, which the plumber had said was
still good. I put that back on, and all was quiet, until I noticed it
was leaking around the upper rubber flanges. I tightened it down and
now it's the same...massive vibration localized to the check valve
after a cycle, lasting around 30-45 seconds.

Any ideas what's happening?

On Mar 12, 10:31�am, "
wrote:
Hello, quick question for the experts out there. *I live in the
midwest and have a sump pump in the basement. *PVC from sump pump runs
up the basement wall and across a 10 foot ceiling section and connects
directly to the city sewer system underground (I think).

Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.
Replaced that myself. *Still a lot of vibration. *Had a plumber come
out...he recommended a new sump pump as our home is 12-years old.
Plumber installed that, and told me to secure the ceiling PVC better
to remove vibration. *Winter came and I forgot about it. *;(

Now that we've had some thaws, vibration came back worse than ever. *I
got some hangers and secured the PVC as solid as possible. *Now, the
vibration is localized to the check valve, and it lasts like 30-45
seconds after the pump cycles. *No banging, just loud vibration.

I had saved the original check valve, which the plumber had said was
still good. *I put that back on, and all was quiet, until I noticed it
was leaking around the upper rubber flanges. *I tightened it down and
now it's the same...massive vibration localized to the check valve
after a cycle, lasting around 30-45 seconds.

Any ideas what's happening?

with a vibrating load rubber mounts would be better, think of your
cars engine.

are you aware its illegal to put sump pump ground water down a
sanitary sewer? during heavy rains the extra groundwater floods the
sewer plant.

eventually your sewer company or at home resale will catch up with
you.

around here they check on avewrage every 2 years and at home resale
have a tanker truck come out with infrared dye stained water dump it
in all downspouts sump pumps etc, while checking at a manhole looking
for the tell tale of cheating.

On Mar 12, 10:31 am, "
wrote:
Hello, quick question for the experts out there. I live in the
midwest and have a sump pump in the basement. PVC from sump pump runs
up the basement wall and across a 10 foot ceiling section and connects
directly to the city sewer system underground (I think).

Illegal in many communities and just a bad practice generally.

Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.
Replaced that myself. Still a lot of vibration. Had a plumber come
out...he recommended a new sump pump as our home is 12-years old.
Plumber installed that, and told me to secure the ceiling PVC better
to remove vibration. Winter came and I forgot about it. ;(

Now that we've had some thaws, vibration came back worse than ever. I
got some hangers and secured the PVC as solid as possible. Now, the
vibration is localized to the check valve, and it lasts like 30-45
seconds after the pump cycles. No banging, just loud vibration.

I had saved the original check valve, which the plumber had said was
still good. I put that back on, and all was quiet, until I noticed it
was leaking around the upper rubber flanges. I tightened it down and
now it's the same...massive vibration localized to the check valve
after a cycle, lasting around 30-45 seconds.

Any ideas what's happening?

From a simple physics analysis, one could asume you're pumping into a
closed system which then relieves the pressure through the check
valve. Confirm by allowing the pump to discharge at atmospheric
pressure, i.e., out onto your lawn or into a (legal) storm sewer. The
water can't all drain, so some will return to the check valve and you
will hear a single bang as it closes, then nothing further.
if this cenario works, that will tell you how to modify the system for
better peac and quiet. Good luck.

Joe

On Mar 12, 11:02 am, " wrote:
On Mar 12, 10:31?am, "
wrote:





Hello, quick question for the experts out there. ?I live in the
midwest and have a sump pump in the basement. ?PVC from sump pump runs
up the basement wall and across a 10 foot ceiling section and connects
directly to the city sewer system underground (I think).

Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.
Replaced that myself. ?Still a lot of vibration. ?Had a plumber come
out...he recommended a new sump pump as our home is 12-years old.
Plumber installed that, and told me to secure the ceiling PVC better
to remove vibration. ?Winter came and I forgot about it. ?;(

Now that we've had some thaws, vibration came back worse than ever. ?I
got some hangers and secured the PVC as solid as possible. ?Now, the
vibration is localized to the check valve, and it lasts like 30-45
seconds after the pump cycles. ?No banging, just loud vibration.

I had saved the original check valve, which the plumber had said was
still good. ?I put that back on, and all was quiet, until I noticed it
was leaking around the upper rubber flanges. ?I tightened it down and
now it's the same...massive vibration localized to the check valve
after a cycle, lasting around 30-45 seconds.

Any ideas what's happening?

with a vibrating load rubber mounts would be better, think of your
cars engine.

are you aware its illegal to put sump pump ground water down a
sanitary sewer? during heavy rains the extra groundwater floods the
sewer plant.

eventually your sewer company or at home resale will catch up with
you.

around here they check on avewrage every 2 years and at home resale
have a tanker truck come out with infrared dye stained water dump it
in all downspouts sump pumps etc, while checking at a manhole looking
for the tell tale of cheating.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

(1) The check valve has rubber flanges on either side of it attaching
to the PVC. The check valve "moves" rapidly with the vibration, but
it is strong enough to make noise we can hear throughout the house,
and it lasts for quite some time after the sump cycle ends.

(2) I said "sewer" but I honestly have no idea where it goes. There's
nothing outside the house that's evident where the sump discharges, so
I assume it's hooked up underground to "something" that drains it
away. I've asked neighbors in the past and theirs are all the same
way, and it's a fairly new neighborhood (20 yrs). So, thanks, but I
assume I'm ok on that issue.

" wrote:

Hello, quick question for the experts out there. I live in the
midwest and have a sump pump in the basement. PVC from sump pump runs
up the basement wall and across a 10 foot ceiling section and connects
directly to the city sewer system underground (I think).

Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.
Replaced that myself. Still a lot of vibration. Had a plumber come
out...he recommended a new sump pump as our home is 12-years old.
Plumber installed that, and told me to secure the ceiling PVC better
to remove vibration. Winter came and I forgot about it. ;(

Now that we've had some thaws, vibration came back worse than ever. I
got some hangers and secured the PVC as solid as possible. Now, the
vibration is localized to the check valve, and it lasts like 30-45
seconds after the pump cycles. No banging, just loud vibration.

I had saved the original check valve, which the plumber had said was
still good. I put that back on, and all was quiet, until I noticed it
was leaking around the upper rubber flanges. I tightened it down and
now it's the same...massive vibration localized to the check valve
after a cycle, lasting around 30-45 seconds.

Any ideas what's happening?

Be sure you have a small hole drilled in the sump discharge pipe to
prevent air lock.

http://store.waterpumpsupply.com/supuinpr.html

"Drill a relief hole (1/8" or 3/16" diameter) in the discharge pipe.
This hole should be located below the floor line between the pump
discharge and the check valve. Unless such a relief hole is provided a
bottom intake pump could "air lock" and will not pump water even though
it will run."

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 08:31:11 -0700, "dan2590 wrote:

Hello, quick question for the experts out there. I live in the
midwest and have a sump pump in the basement. PVC from sump pump runs
up the basement wall and across a 10 foot ceiling section and connects
directly to the city sewer system underground (I think).

Some communities have separate 'sewage' pipe from drain water pipe. In
this case this is legal. Some communities don't require sump pumps, in
this case its probably legal. Otherwise, probably not a legal connection.
Not to mention what happens if water flows the other way...


Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.
Replaced that myself. Still a lot of vibration. Had a plumber come
out...he recommended a new sump pump as our home is 12-years old.
Plumber installed that, and told me to secure the ceiling PVC better
to remove vibration. Winter came and I forgot about it. ;(

Likely just your pipes working themselves loose. All you required was to
tighten the pipes brackets again. I had the same problem and replaced
various parts, but in the end it was just in fact a few 'strap' brackets
had snapped. I installed new ones and no more banging.

I also installed my own make shift 'water hammer' arrestor. Which
probably don't do much but it was a nice idea, and I put a cleanout on it
so I can snake the pipe without having to remove the pump...

I don't think you needed a new sump pump at all. Maybe take that one out
and clean it a bit. If any thing buy a new one to have on standby, but if
it ain't broke...


Now that we've had some thaws, vibration came back worse than ever. I
got some hangers and secured the PVC as solid as possible. Now, the
vibration is localized to the check valve, and it lasts like 30-45
seconds after the pump cycles. No banging, just loud vibration.

Well I do recommend tightning the straps to stop the banging. However,
you now have a different pump which probably pushes a different amount of
water, so your sound will be different. Especially if you got a 'more
powerful' one which may not have been needed and only will be noisier.


I had saved the original check valve, which the plumber had said was
still good. I put that back on, and all was quiet, until I noticed it
was leaking around the upper rubber flanges. I tightened it down and
now it's the same...massive vibration localized to the check valve
after a cycle, lasting around 30-45 seconds.

Any ideas what's happening?

Its the signature of your new probably more powerful pump.

On 12 Mar 2007 08:31:11 -0700, "
wrote:


Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.

I don't have a check valve, but was considering putting one in.

What say you all, do they all make a bang at the end of the cycle? Or
even a noise?

I was considering instead of a battery backup sump pump getting that
water powered thing, a bit cheaper but but more work to install.

If the check valve is going to go BANG, I would rather get the water
powered thing.

On Mar 12, 1:16 pm, mm wrote:
On 12 Mar 2007 08:31:11 -0700, "

wrote:

Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.

I don't have a check valve, but was considering putting one in.

What say you all, do they all make a bang at the end of the cycle? Or
even a noise?

I was considering instead of a battery backup sump pump getting that
water powered thing, a bit cheaper but but more work to install.

If the check valve is going to go BANG, I would rather get the water
powered thing.


No, ours originally was quiet, and the neigbors I've asked are quiet
as well. Something changed to make it bad in the first place. I
wouldn't make a decision based on a check valve making noise in my
case. Frankly, I didn't know this existed until last summer, it was
normal-sounding prior to that. FWIW a neighbor has a backup water
powered thing, and he feels it's a good solution.

The "relief" hole is bunk. not needed.

--
Steve Barker




"Ermalina" wrote in message
...
Be sure you have a small hole drilled in the sump discharge pipe to
prevent air lock.

http://store.waterpumpsupply.com/supuinpr.html

"Drill a relief hole (1/8" or 3/16" diameter) in the discharge pipe.
This hole should be located below the floor line between the pump
discharge and the check valve. Unless such a relief hole is provided a
bottom intake pump could "air lock" and will not pump water even though
it will run."

You know the vibration excess noise could all have one CAUSE!

What if the dischgarge line is somehow blocked?

Then the discharge water pressure back makes the check valve bang when
pump shuts off?

Creates your new vibration noise?

If I were you I would connect a garden hose to the discharge line to
make certain it passes water easily!

Or one day it may stop completely and flood your basement

wrote in message
eventually your sewer company or at home resale will catch up with
you.

around here they check on avewrage every 2 years and at home resale
have a tanker truck come out with infrared dye stained water dump it
in all downspouts sump pumps etc, while checking at a manhole looking
for the tell tale of cheating.

I'm glad I don't live where you live. I've never heard of that. Does the
tax assessor drop in on occasion also?

On Mar 12, 3:47�pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
wrote in message

eventually your sewer company or at home resale will catch up with
you.

around here they check on avewrage every 2 years and at home resale
have a tanker truck come out with infrared dye stained water dump it
in all downspouts sump pumps etc, while checking at a manhole looking
for the tell tale of cheating.

I'm glad I don't live where you live. *I've never heard of that. *Does the
tax assessor drop in on occasion also?

Yeah they came by and measured every home, all the pavement, for
sidewalks driveways etc. Alleghenyy county has one of the highest
property taxes nationwide Combined school, county and municipal over
3 grand per $100,000 of home value.

Most tax is for schools, starting salary in my area near 60 grand, tp
pay after 10 years about a $100,000.........

Nice money for working 190 days a year//////

The rules on sewage are really necessary, Flood the sewer plant means
untreated sewage goes in the river, where people boat, swim, and
drinking water comes from.

On Mar 12, 3:33 pm, " wrote:
You know the vibration excess noise could all have one CAUSE!

What if the dischgarge line is somehow blocked?

Then the discharge water pressure back makes the check valve bang when
pump shuts off?

Creates your new vibration noise?

If I were you I would connect a garden hose to the discharge line to
make certain it passes water easily!

Or one day it may stop completely and flood your basement


I did think of that. I'm "tellling myself" that's not the case since
when I took the check valve out to assess the situation last night,
some water obviously came down out of the blank PVC end, but not an
inordinate amount. I'm assuming that given the PVC travels up the
wall and then bends and goes up one more time, that area will have
some water post-cycle in it...that's about how much came out.

Anyway, I was telling myself that, and assumed there'd be some obvious
answer here on these boards or on the internet somewhere. That is
obviously not the case, and I'm beginning to think I need to hire a
plumber to assess the situation. It wasn't this way before, so
something somewhere is messing with my previous state of happiness.
Thanks for your thoughts!

On 12 Mar 2007 11:33:26 -0700, "
wrote:

On Mar 12, 1:16 pm, mm wrote:
On 12 Mar 2007 08:31:11 -0700, "

wrote:

Our sump had been making a BANGING noise at the end of each cycle.
Reading up about that, I determined it must be a bad check valve.

I don't have a check valve, but was considering putting one in.

What say you all, do they all make a bang at the end of the cycle? Or
even a noise?

I was considering instead of a battery backup sump pump getting that
water powered thing, a bit cheaper but but more work to install.

If the check valve is going to go BANG, I would rather get the water
powered thing.


No, ours originally was quiet, and the neigbors I've asked are quiet
as well. Something changed to make it bad in the first place. I
wouldn't make a decision based on a check valve making noise in my
case. Frankly, I didn't know this existed until last summer, it was
normal-sounding prior to that. FWIW a neighbor has a backup water
powered thing, and he feels it's a good solution.

Because of the extra installation work required, especially in my
house, it's tied, which I will get, so I'm looking for anything to
break the tie.

I found one on ebay where it said that he put in some other backup
sump pump or something like that, so he removed the water-powered one,
but it works. The bidding was over, but would you have believed this
story?

It's not like that space is useful for much. If I had one in, I
wouldn't take it out.

On 12 Mar 2007 11:33:26 -0700, "
wrote:


No, ours originally was quiet, and the neigbors I've asked are quiet

By the way, thanks for getting back to me on this. Much appreciated.

as well. Something changed to make it bad in the first place. I
wouldn't make a decision based on a check valve making noise in my
case. Frankly, I didn't know this existed until last summer, it was
normal-sounding prior to that. FWIW a neighbor has a backup water
powered thing, and he feels it's a good solution.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 17:23:13 -0400, mm wrote:

No, ours originally was quiet, and the neigbors I've asked are quiet
as well. Something changed to make it bad in the first place. I
wouldn't make a decision based on a check valve making noise in my
case. Frankly, I didn't know this existed until last summer, it was
normal-sounding prior to that. FWIW a neighbor has a backup water
powered thing, and he feels it's a good solution.

Because of the extra installation work required, especially in my
house, it's tied, which I will get, so I'm looking for anything to
break the tie.

I found one on ebay where it said that he put in some other backup
sump pump or something like that, so he removed the water-powered one,
but it works. The bidding was over, but would you have believed this
story?

It's not like that space is useful for much. If I had one in, I
wouldn't take it out.

damn sure wouldnt. plumbers removed my neighbors water backup and put in
a 2nd electrical pump. Not even a backup pump. Those idiots need to be
sued. no room for 2 electric pumps with arm style floats. Im disgusted
by it.

anyway, this has nothing to do with the water hammer. which I think is
just pipes working themselves loose.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 14:19:20 -0700, "dan2590 wrote:

On Mar 12, 3:33 pm, " wrote:
You know the vibration excess noise could all have one CAUSE!

What if the dischgarge line is somehow blocked?

Then the discharge water pressure back makes the check valve bang when
pump shuts off?

Creates your new vibration noise?

If I were you I would connect a garden hose to the discharge line to
make certain it passes water easily!

Or one day it may stop completely and flood your basement


I did think of that. I'm "tellling myself" that's not the case since
when I took the check valve out to assess the situation last night,
some water obviously came down out of the blank PVC end, but not an
inordinate amount. I'm assuming that given the PVC travels up the
wall and then bends and goes up one more time, that area will have
some water post-cycle in it...that's about how much came out.

Anyway, I was telling myself that, and assumed there'd be some obvious
answer here on these boards or on the internet somewhere. That is
obviously not the case, and I'm beginning to think I need to hire a
plumber to assess the situation. It wasn't this way before, so
something somewhere is messing with my previous state of happiness.
Thanks for your thoughts!

I gave you the answer. did you not see my post? I went through great
lengths to rid myself of that noise and in the end it was just the pipe
attachment. And now that you have a new pump, which I bet is stronger,
your pipes are going to work themselves loose that much faster if you dont
tighten them down snugly.


Its not the check valve, its the pressure drop. The pressure increase
caused by the water flowing in reverse and closing the check valve is
nothing compared to the pressure drop when that pump shuts off. I bet you
can see your pipes flex when the pump kicks on in certain places.

go ahead and remove the valve and see what happens. Let us know.

Presently I have 0 noise and a much stronger pump too. I would post
pictures but I dont think newsgroups take em.

On Mar 12, 5:16�pm, "dnoyeB" wrote:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 14:19:20 -0700, "dan2590 wrote:
On Mar 12, 3:33 pm, " wrote:
You know the vibration excess noise could all have one CAUSE!

What if the dischgarge line is somehow blocked?

Then the discharge water pressure back makes the check valve bang when
pump shuts off?

Creates your new vibration noise?

If I were you I would connect a garden hose to the discharge line to
make certain it passes water easily!

Or one day it may stop completely and flood your basement

I did think of that. *I'm "tellling myself" that's not the case since
when I took the check valve out to assess the situation last night,
some water obviously came down out of the blank PVC end, but not an
inordinate amount. *I'm assuming that given the PVC travels up the
wall and then bends and goes up one more time, that area will have
some water post-cycle in it...that's about how much came out.

Anyway, I was telling myself that, and assumed there'd be some obvious
answer here on these boards or on the internet somewhere. *That is
obviously not the case, and I'm beginning to think I need to hire a
plumber to assess the situation. *It wasn't this way before, so
something somewhere is messing with my previous state of happiness.
Thanks for your thoughts!

I gave you the answer. *did you not see my post? *I went through great
lengths to rid myself of that noise and in the end it was just the pipe
attachment. *And now that you have a new pump, which I bet is stronger,
your pipes are going to work themselves loose that much faster if you dont
tighten them down snugly.

Its not the check valve, its the pressure drop. *The pressure increase
caused by the water flowing in reverse and closing the check valve is
nothing compared to the pressure drop when that pump shuts off. I bet you
can see your pipes flex when the pump kicks on in certain places.

go ahead and remove the valve and see what happens. *Let us know.

Presently I have 0 noise and a much stronger pump too. *I would post
pictures but I dont think newsgroups take em.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well I would try garden hose flush of that discharge line!

Incidently my sump pump has a small hole thatrs been talked about, I
think its to avoid pump burn out if the exit gets blocked, remember
the flowing water cools the pump.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 17:10:27 -0500, "dnoyeB" wrote:


I found one on ebay where it said that he put in some other backup
sump pump or something like that, so he removed the water-powered one,
but it works. The bidding was over, but would you have believed this
story?

It's not like that space is useful for much. If I had one in, I
wouldn't take it out.

damn sure wouldnt. plumbers removed my neighbors water backup and put in
a 2nd electrical pump. Not even a backup pump. Those idiots need to be

But this sort of confirms the ebay guy's story. If your neighbor's
plumbers could be so stupid, so could an owner!

sued. no room for 2 electric pumps with arm style floats. Im disgusted
by it.

I agree.

Well I would try garden hose flush of that discharge line!

Incidently my sump pump has a small hole thatrs been talked about, I
think its to avoid pump burn out if the exit gets blocked, remember
the flowing water cools the pump.

My pumps have had a form of that hole as well. Also, I snake my exhaust
lines. I have pictures of that too. My pipes had about a 1/2" coating of
red mud on them. Thats why I installed the cleanout. I need to snake
once a year. Too bad I didnt know this before I put up the drywall or I
would have put in a better elbow...

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 22:24:32 -0400, mm wrote:

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 17:10:27 -0500, "dnoyeB" wrote:


I found one on ebay where it said that he put in some other backup
sump pump or something like that, so he removed the water-powered one,
but it works. The bidding was over, but would you have believed this
story?

It's not like that space is useful for much. If I had one in, I
wouldn't take it out.

damn sure wouldnt. plumbers removed my neighbors water backup and put in
a 2nd electrical pump. Not even a backup pump. Those idiots need to be

But this sort of confirms the ebay guy's story. If your neighbor's
plumbers could be so stupid, so could an owner!


definitely true. My neighbors pump has been running probably non-stop
since the plumber put it in. The arm is blocked and it just runs and runs
and steams. probably going on 3 months now. Strong little sucker. But
it will give up the ghost at that rate, soon enough...

there was a sewage pump in the pit, its coated with like 1" of red mud.
Probably does not work. They just replaced it. but all it needs is to be
opened up and clean the gunk off the blades. I guess Plumbers don't do
that. Of course they probably saw the Jaguar in the garage and said skip
it...


sued. no room for 2 electric pumps with arm style floats. Im disgusted
by it.

I agree.

On Mar 12, 5:16 pm, "dnoyeB" wrote:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 14:19:20 -0700, "dan2590 wrote:
On Mar 12, 3:33 pm, " wrote:
You know the vibration excess noise could all have one CAUSE!

What if the dischgarge line is somehow blocked?

Then the discharge water pressure back makes the check valve bang when
pump shuts off?

Creates your new vibration noise?

If I were you I would connect a garden hose to the discharge line to
make certain it passes water easily!

Or one day it may stop completely and flood your basement

I did think of that. I'm "tellling myself" that's not the case since
when I took the check valve out to assess the situation last night,
some water obviously came down out of the blank PVC end, but not an
inordinate amount. I'm assuming that given the PVC travels up the
wall and then bends and goes up one more time, that area will have
some water post-cycle in it...that's about how much came out.

Anyway, I was telling myself that, and assumed there'd be some obvious
answer here on these boards or on the internet somewhere. That is
obviously not the case, and I'm beginning to think I need to hire a
plumber to assess the situation. It wasn't this way before, so
something somewhere is messing with my previous state of happiness.
Thanks for your thoughts!

I gave you the answer. did you not see my post? I went through great
lengths to rid myself of that noise and in the end it was just the pipe
attachment. And now that you have a new pump, which I bet is stronger,
your pipes are going to work themselves loose that much faster if you dont
tighten them down snugly.

Its not the check valve, its the pressure drop. The pressure increase
caused by the water flowing in reverse and closing the check valve is
nothing compared to the pressure drop when that pump shuts off. I bet you
can see your pipes flex when the pump kicks on in certain places.

go ahead and remove the valve and see what happens. Let us know.

Presently I have 0 noise and a much stronger pump too. I would post
pictures but I dont think newsgroups take em.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I did see your post and appreciate it very much. I thought you were
mainly referring to banging, which was an issue but is not any
longer. Right now the sump cycles and that makes noise, and I'm fine
with that. AFTERWARD, there is intense vibration right at the check
valve for 30-45 seconds afterward. I did secure all pvc as best as
possible, so that's not really the problem...it's the intensity right
at the check valve.

I had assumed that was a sign of a problem with something?

However, reading your post and others, it sounds like something that I
can try to minimize the noise, but the fact that this is happening
isn't of grave concern?

To the posters suggesting I flush with Garden hose...If I remove the
check valve the hose water would still have to travel upward about 5
feet up my basement wall and then up a bit in one other spot. Is that
how you would do that? Will the hose water have enough power to get up
and out, and then still maintain power to flush way down at the other
end where there's a potential blockage? Remember, all external stuff
is underground, so my only access is where the check valve is.

On Mar 13, 6:56�am, " wrote:
On Mar 12, 5:16 pm, "dnoyeB" wrote:





On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 14:19:20 -0700, "dan2590 wrote:
On Mar 12, 3:33 pm, " wrote:
You know the vibration excess noise could all have one CAUSE!

What if the dischgarge line is somehow blocked?

Then the discharge water pressure back makes the check valve bang when
pump shuts off?

Creates your new vibration noise?

If I were you I would connect a garden hose to the discharge line to
make certain it passes water easily!

Or one day it may stop completely and flood your basement

I did think of that. *I'm "tellling myself" that's not the case since
when I took the check valve out to assess the situation last night,
some water obviously came down out of the blank PVC end, but not an
inordinate amount. *I'm assuming that given the PVC travels up the
wall and then bends and goes up one more time, that area will have
some water post-cycle in it...that's about how much came out.

Anyway, I was telling myself that, and assumed there'd be some obvious
answer here on these boards or on the internet somewhere. *That is
obviously not the case, and I'm beginning to think I need to hire a
plumber to assess the situation. *It wasn't this way before, so
something somewhere is messing with my previous state of happiness.
Thanks for your thoughts!

I gave you the answer. *did you not see my post? *I went through great
lengths to rid myself of that noise and in the end it was just the pipe
attachment. *And now that you have a new pump, which I bet is stronger,
your pipes are going to work themselves loose that much faster if you dont
tighten them down snugly.

Its not the check valve, its the pressure drop. *The pressure increase
caused by the water flowing in reverse and closing the check valve is
nothing compared to the pressure drop when that pump shuts off. I bet you
can see your pipes flex when the pump kicks on in certain places.

go ahead and remove the valve and see what happens. *Let us know.

Presently I have 0 noise and a much stronger pump too. *I would post
pictures but I dont think newsgroups take em.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I did see your post and appreciate it very much. *I thought you were
mainly referring to banging, which was an issue but is not any
longer. *Right now the sump cycles and that makes noise, and I'm fine
with that. *AFTERWARD, there is intense vibration right at the check
valve for 30-45 seconds afterward. *I did secure all pvc as best as
possible, so that's not really the problem...it's the intensity right
at the check valve.

I had assumed that was a sign of a problem with something?

However, reading your post and others, it sounds like something that I
can try to minimize the noise, but the fact that this is happening
isn't of grave concern?

To the posters suggesting I flush with Garden hose...If I remove the
check valve the hose water would still have to travel upward about 5
feet up my basement wall and then up a bit in one other spot. *Is that
how you would do that? Will the hose water have enough power to get up
and out, and then still maintain power to flush way down at the other
end where there's a potential blockage? *Remember, all external stuff
is underground, so my only access is where the check valve is.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah provided you have a decent garden hose and pressure.

If you connect it and water doesnt flow, hose bulges you have a
blockage, garden hose should do this easily. let it run awhile....

wonder where the water goes?

On Tue, 13 Mar 2007 04:56:50 -0700, "dan2590 wrote:

I did see your post and appreciate it very much. I thought you were
mainly referring to banging, which was an issue but is not any
longer. Right now the sump cycles and that makes noise, and I'm fine
with that. AFTERWARD, there is intense vibration right at the check
valve for 30-45 seconds afterward. I did secure all pvc as best as
possible, so that's not really the problem...it's the intensity right
at the check valve.

That is odd. So after the pump shuts off, the valve is vibrating for 30
seconds? That can only be water sliding back down the pipe into your pit.
Probably there is some dirt in the valve preventing it from closing
fully!? but you said it was cleaned I think.

its pretty weird. I dont have that problem.


I had assumed that was a sign of a problem with something?

However, reading your post and others, it sounds like something that I
can try to minimize the noise, but the fact that this is happening
isn't of grave concern?


I don't think it is. Probably means you are pumping more water than
necessary though since some is pumped twice.

To the posters suggesting I flush with Garden hose...If I remove the
check valve the hose water would still have to travel upward about 5
feet up my basement wall and then up a bit in one other spot. Is that
how you would do that? Will the hose water have enough power to get up
and out, and then still maintain power to flush way down at the other
end where there's a potential blockage? Remember, all external stuff
is underground, so my only access is where the check valve is.

garden hose did nothing for me. I have sticky red mud. You can try one
of those attachments that go on the end of the hose like a small balloon.
It causes the water to jet and vibrate through the pipe. i am sure your
pipes will be totally clean after that. but of course I am not sure your
pipes are designed to handle that pressure and vibration.

I put a cleanout on my pipe. And I snake it once or twice a year. I put
the cleanout at the end of a angled Y, and I added some piping above it so
there could be some air in there. so when the pumps shuts off, the water
can slosh back into that area and stop hammering. It probably does not
work, but it was worth a shot, my pipes are much quieter, and I have a
cleanout...