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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't
drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? I bought a 1 HP Harbor Freight 69300 dirty water pump to drain a green pool but it won't turn on at low water levels: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5458/1...ee73cc98_c.jpg Even with the obnoxious float switch manually set to permanent on, the pump stops pumping with plenty of dirty water left to pump out: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7699/1...45741c9b_c.jpg I'm currently shoveling the water into a garbage can and then pumping it out from the garbage can: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8811/1...f798a613_c.jpg But, pumping at 50 gallons per minute, I have to constantly run to the GCFI and pull the plug to shut it off before the garbage can runs dry: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7642/1...c37715ab_c.jpg Currently I have a 2-inch pool vacuum hose connected to the 1.5-inch outlet (female NPT thread) in the steel body of the pump: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8805/1...d602a39d_z.jpg But, I'd like to see if I can jury rig *something* (a rubber hose perhaps?) to go on the *underside* unthreaded inlet of the pump: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5443/1...ed88636b_z.jpg What could I shove into that inlet which will allow the pump to go shallower than the three or four or even five inches it seems to currently stop at? I have a few 1.5-inch NPT fittings which go on the *outlet* of the stainless steel body: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7644/1...bc0500f9_z.jpg The specs for the pump "say" it drains down to 1-3/8 inches: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-st...gph-69300.html But, the owners manual says it stops at 3 inches (which it seems to do): http://manuals.harborfreight.com/man...9999/69300.pdf Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? |
#2
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Danny D. formulated the question :
Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? I bought a 1 HP Harbor Freight 69300 dirty water pump to drain a green pool but it won't turn on at low water levels: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5458/1...ee73cc98_c.jpg Even with the obnoxious float switch manually set to permanent on, the pump stops pumping with plenty of dirty water left to pump out: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7699/1...45741c9b_c.jpg I'm currently shoveling the water into a garbage can and then pumping it out from the garbage can: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8811/1...f798a613_c.jpg But, pumping at 50 gallons per minute, I have to constantly run to the GCFI and pull the plug to shut it off before the garbage can runs dry: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7642/1...c37715ab_c.jpg Currently I have a 2-inch pool vacuum hose connected to the 1.5-inch outlet (female NPT thread) in the steel body of the pump: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8805/1...d602a39d_z.jpg But, I'd like to see if I can jury rig *something* (a rubber hose perhaps?) to go on the *underside* unthreaded inlet of the pump: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5443/1...ed88636b_z.jpg What could I shove into that inlet which will allow the pump to go shallower than the three or four or even five inches it seems to currently stop at? I have a few 1.5-inch NPT fittings which go on the *outlet* of the stainless steel body: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7644/1...bc0500f9_z.jpg The specs for the pump "say" it drains down to 1-3/8 inches: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-st...gph-69300.html But, the owners manual says it stops at 3 inches (which it seems to do): http://manuals.harborfreight.com/man...9999/69300.pdf Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? Translate this from Australian Cheap Shop Vacuum cleaners often allow WET USE HF most likely sells them for less than $50 http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ult?q=shop+vac Only get a tankfull at a time. Maybe 5 gallons. -- John G Sydney. |
#3
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In sci.electronics.repair Danny D. wrote:
But, pumping at 50 gallons per minute, I have to constantly run to the GCFI and pull the plug to shut it off before the garbage can runs dry: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7642/1...c37715ab_c.jpg I think I'd plug a power strip with switch into the long cord from the house, and then a short (like, 12') extension cord into the power strip, and then the pump into the short extension cord. This gives you a local switch so you don't have to run around. Yes, plugging extension cords into power strips into extension cords is against code. But, I'd like to see if I can jury rig *something* (a rubber hose perhaps?) to go on the *underside* unthreaded inlet of the pump: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5443/1...ed88636b_z.jpg First idea: Use a big hole saw to cut a round hole in the foot plate of that pump, concentric with the inlet. Then use something like a piece of radiator hose through the hole you just made and onto the inlet, secured with RTV maybe. Or, get a fitting with a long length of external thread and a big nut to fit that thread. Put the nut between the foot plate and the inlet, stick the fitting through the hole you cut, then thread the nut onto the fitting. Push the fitting up against the inlet and thread the nut down, so the nut forces the fitting up against the inlet. Then hook whatever hose you want to the free end of the fitting. Second idea: Drill out the spot welds? that hold the "legs" onto the foot plate. Then you have a straight shot at the inlet. You might be able to get a giant rubber sewer pipe fitting (the thing that's a length of rubber and two worm gear clamps) over the whole OD of the motor housing, and then step down to a reasonable diameter with PVC from there. Replace the foot plate with small stainless steel screws and locknuts later. Matt Roberds |
#4
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On 4/22/15 2:13 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? For some people, the solution is to dig a sump for the pump. |
#5
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In sci.electronics.repair Danny D. wrote:
I bought a 1 HP Harbor Freight 69300 dirty water pump to drain a green pool but it won't turn on at low water levels: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5458/1...ee73cc98_c.jpg The pump probably works fine. I'd make suspects out of those two salamanders, probably unplugging it before it's done running. -bruce |
#6
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On 4/22/2015 2:13 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? I modified a HF fountain pump by taping off the sides, so it would draw closer to the floor of the wet area. Wonder if you can modify this pump? The shovel routine sounds a bit like work. Others suggested a shop vac. When the shop vac is full, you can put the pump into the shop vac canister. Instead of running for the GFCI unplug, just let the float down. Might want to put the pump in a Rubbermaid with enough room for the float to move, while you shovel water into the 18 gallon Rubbermaid. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#7
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"Danny D." wrote in message
... Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? Danny? You know it's three inches because.................you measured it with yer gherkin? Do tell...............^@^ |
#8
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 06:13:33 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote: Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? There are simple solutions and cheap solutions. Pick one. The simple solution is to rent a proper trash pump: http://powerequipment.honda.com/pumps/trash-pumps Attach a suction hose (one that won't collapse) and most important, a strainer, http://www.hondaenergy.com/product.php/286/water_pump_strainer_2_inch and pump away. It should clear your swamp in a few minutes. As the water level goes down, use a snow shovel to clear out the remaining debris and dead bodies. It's better to stop and shovel than to constantly unclog the strainer. Resist the temptation to remove the strainer as that's the only thing keeping your pump from eating a rock and jamming. It takes two people. One person to operate the hose and the other to shovel. Do not ask how I learned to do this. The cheap way is a hand operated bilge pump borrowed from someone with a boat. https://www.google.com/search?q=hand+operated+bilge+pump&tbm=isch I have several of this type. Same ritual as the rented pump as these things really don't like dirty water and debris. The down side is that water weighs 8.3 lbs/gallon and it could take forever. The good news is that you'll get plenty of exercise. Estimate the amount of water you have to pump and calculate the weight. That's how much weight lifting exercise you're about to experience. If you don't mind some fabrication, you can build an Achemedes screw pump out of any kind of flex hose spiraled around a shaft with a crank. These can easily handle debris. https://www.google.com/search?q=archimedes+screw&tbm=isch Unfortunately, it may take longer to build and debug than to continue bailing with buckets. It will also need a small pipe in order to work at 3" and below. If you have a larger air bladder and some bricks, you can raise and displace the water to a higher water level, giving your Harbour Fright pump more depth with which to work. If that's too complicated, try a few boards to build a dam, and shove the water to one side of the pool for pumping. Last resort is to find a rectangular trash can, and drag it along the bottom of the pool. Not the most efficient but at least you'll be picking up the trash along with the water. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#9
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 06:13:33 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote: I bought a 1 HP Harbor Freight 69300 dirty water pump to drain a green pool but it won't turn on at low water levels: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5458/1...ee73cc98_c.jpg What are those, salamanders climbing the wall? I've counted three (3) in your photos. They may be protected by CA law and drought restrictions may prevent you from filling the pool. I hear Gov. Moonbeam is figuring a way to see how long you folks shower ![]() Hey Danny |
#10
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 03:12:12 -0400, J Burns
wrote: On 4/22/15 2:13 AM, Danny D. wrote: Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? For some people, the solution is to dig a sump for the pump. True for some people. Not in this case, with a pool. |
#11
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 08:53:05 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: Last resort is to find a rectangular trash can, and drag it along the bottom of the pool. Not the most efficient but at least you'll be picking up the trash along with the water. I just remembered how I cleared out the last of the debris and water. I used a plastic chicken or snow shovel to load it into a trash barrel. I couldn't find a photo of mine, but this is close: http://blogs.solidworks.com/teacher/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/6a00d83451706569e20162fe4c7aa2970d.jpg -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#12
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On 4/22/2015 12:13 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 06:13:33 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." wrote: I bought a 1 HP Harbor Freight 69300 dirty water pump to drain a green pool but it won't turn on at low water levels: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5458/1...ee73cc98_c.jpg What are those, salamanders climbing the wall? I've counted three (3) in your photos. They may be protected by CA law and drought restrictions may prevent you from filling the pool. I hear Gov. Moonbeam is figuring a way to see how long you folks shower ![]() Hey Danny Florida has had restrictions for watering lawns for years; using reclaimed water for that a lot. |
#13
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ShopVac with a garden hose rigged to fit the vac hose; there are quite a
few adapters available for ShopVacs. |
#14
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On 4/22/15 12:22 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 03:12:12 -0400, J Burns wrote: On 4/22/15 2:13 AM, Danny D. wrote: Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? For some people, the solution is to dig a sump for the pump. True for some people. Not in this case, with a pool. Is a green pool a kind of swimming pool? To drain the neighbor's swimming pool, we turned a valve to "drain" and switched on the pump. |
#15
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 09:24:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: More of the same... I just looked at my sump pump: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1273396 (For sale, incidentally). I had to add a 1.5" pipe extension and an anti-backflow spring valve to make it work right. http://www.poolsuppliescanada.ca/1-1-2-inch-pvc-check-valve-with-spring-female-threaded.html The problem was every time the pump began to suck air, the water in the vertical drain hose would flow backwards town the hose and try to leak out the intake. Turning off the power guaranteed a gallon or more of water going backwards. The spring valve solved that problem. Unfortunately, the valve didn't like getting fed rocks, so I was fairly careful when using the strainer. Ummm.... duz this pool have a drain? If so, does your HF sump pump fit into the drain? If yes, then just lower the pump into the drain and you'll get more than 3" of of water level. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#16
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J Burns wrote, on Wed, 22 Apr 2015 14:04:14 -0400:
Is a green pool a kind of swimming pool? To drain the neighbor's swimming pool, we turned a valve to "drain" and switched on the pump. This is a "fancy" self cleaning pool that doesn't have a main drain cock nor even a vacuum pump (nor do the skimmers filter anything whatsoever). You can open up the pool equipment, for example, at the filter, which will drain maybe half, maybe a bit more or less than half the pool (which is roughly about 20,000 gallons at the halfway mark). The next 20,000 gallons is never coming out unless it evaporates or it's pumped out. I had siphoned it all out, but, with all the moving of the siphon hose against the hard side of the pool, I ended up gouging out a hole. https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7675/1...f528726c_c.jpg Any idea if this tear is easily fixable (or is the 30-foot length now useless)? https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7714/1...abba6c49_c.jpg |
#17
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 14:04:14 -0400, J Burns
wrote: On 4/22/15 12:22 PM, Oren wrote: On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 03:12:12 -0400, J Burns wrote: On 4/22/15 2:13 AM, Danny D. wrote: Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? For some people, the solution is to dig a sump for the pump. True for some people. Not in this case, with a pool. Is a green pool a kind of swimming pool? To drain the neighbor's swimming pool, we turned a valve to "drain" and switched on the pump. I'm so happy for you I cannot express myself. |
#18
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Danny D. wrote:
Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? I bought a 1 HP Harbor Freight 69300 dirty water pump to drain a green pool but it won't turn on at low water levels: https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5458/1...ee73cc98_c.jpg Even with the obnoxious float switch manually set to permanent on, the pump stops pumping with plenty of dirty water left to pump out: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7699/1...45741c9b_c.jpg I'm currently shoveling the water into a garbage can and then pumping it out from the garbage can: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8811/1...f798a613_c.jpg But, pumping at 50 gallons per minute, I have to constantly run to the GCFI and pull the plug to shut it off before the garbage can runs dry: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7642/1...c37715ab_c.jpg The pump probably stops pumping when it starts drawing air. So, you need to keep air away from the input. I can suggest a couple possible solutions. 1. Take a sheet of bubble wrap, or maybe just plastic sheet, maybe 3 feet square at the minimum. Cut a hole in it to fit it to the pump just below the outlet tube. Tape or caulk it to the pump to eliminate air. Place the pump in the water, and place suitable boards, bricks, rocks under the plastic to maintain a water path to the pump, tapering towards the edge of the sheet to maybe 1/4" above the pool bottom. Thus, you have a long thin path for water to reach the pump in sufficient volume. The edge of the sheet will need to be weighted down to hold it on the spacers. A hard plastic layer under the plastic sheet could help keep it from collapsing between the spacers. The outer edge spacers could be narrow strips of corrugated plastic which is made like corrugated plastic, and is most commonly seen used for political campaign signs. Water would pass through the corrugations. 2. drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of a barrel, or even a plastic bucket deep enough to hold the whole pump. Keep the holes in from the edge of the bottom to reduce air whirlpools from reaching under. Place it in the water on some pea gravel to allow water to reach the holes. Place the pump in the barrel, Add a top with two holes, one for the outlet hose, sealed around the hose. The other, for your shop vac inlet. Attach the shop vac and turn it on. It will draw water into the barrel high enough to cover the pump. Then, turn on the pump. If the pump draws water too fast, either drill more holes, or use a valve to restrict outflow from the pump outlet.hose. When you start the pump. if air under the plastic keeps it from pumping, use your shop vac at the end of the outlet hose to draw the air out, and the pump should start pumping. Remove the vac before the water gets to it. 3. There are actually shop vac's available with pumps built into them. I don't know how high they can pump. |
#19
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Have same pump.
How about Gorilla tape all around the bottom and a few slits at the very bottom. That seals the intake down to the last quarter of an inch or so. But to run this, you have to have enough water in the pool to prime the pump, 3 inches. Otherwise use a water driven syphon to suck the last water out of the pool. Uses some water for the syphon to suck and push. Run the output into a barrel if the pool is too deep for the syphon to lift it out (water supply pressure and syphon design). I made my own out of PCV pipe and a few brass fittings. With all properly sealed it works well. Harbor Freight also has a clean water pump that will take the level way down. If your green water is just green, that will work and that pump is cheap. I use make-shift filter for the clean water filter to get large items out. That clean water pump will handle some nuggets. See the specs. --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
#20
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On Tuesday, April 21, 2015 at 11:14:38 PM UTC-7, Danny D. wrote:
Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? Kinda. You can put a sump outside the pool, and bridge to it with a siphon. Then, with the sump six inches lower than the bottom of the pool, it siphons from the pool down to the bottom, and the pump only leaves 3 inches in the SUMP, not in the pool. You can get fancy with a backflow preventer in the siphon, of the floating-ball variety, that will make it easier to prefill the siphon hose. |
#21
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 18:56:12 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote: Any idea if this tear is easily fixable (or is the 30-foot length now useless)? https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7714/1...abba6c49_c.jpg If the hose vinyl, RTV (silicon rubber) should work. You may need a piece of vinyl to act as an overlapping patch. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#22
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On 4/22/2015 6:30 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 18:56:12 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." wrote: Any idea if this tear is easily fixable (or is the 30-foot length now useless)? https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7714/1...abba6c49_c.jpg If the hose vinyl, RTV (silicon rubber) should work. You may need a piece of vinyl to act as an overlapping patch. I'd be thinking silicone caulk, followed by gorilla tape, and then cable ties. Not sure if that will work. That stuff is miserable to patch. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#23
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On 4/22/2015 4:16 PM, Oren wrote:
For some people, the solution is to dig a sump for the pump. True for some people. Not in this case, with a pool. Is a green pool a kind of swimming pool? To drain the neighbor's swimming pool, we turned a valve to "drain" and switched on the pump. I'm so happy for you I cannot express myself. Some swimming pools do have a bottom drain that could work for what Danny D is doing. I'm also thrilled beyond description. - .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#25
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 19:07:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 4/22/2015 6:30 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 18:56:12 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." wrote: Any idea if this tear is easily fixable (or is the 30-foot length now useless)? https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7714/1...abba6c49_c.jpg If the hose vinyl, RTV (silicon rubber) should work. You may need a piece of vinyl to act as an overlapping patch. I'd be thinking silicone caulk, followed by gorilla tape, and then cable ties. You forgot the traditional baling wire layer. I don't think silicone caulk will work. It's too thick and will not stick to the vinyl. I was thinking of silicone glue, which is thinner and more likely to stick, especially if the vinyl hose is roughed up a little with some sandpaper. It has to be some kind of rubberish adhesive because the glue needs to be flexible. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Nails-2-5-oz-Clear-Small-Projects-Silicone-Adhesive-LN-207/202203979 If desperate, there's always Awesome Goo: http://www.awesomegoo.com It's not very flexible, but it sure sticks to anything. If you really want it done right, start with a needle and thread, and sew the edges together. Some reinforcing tape along the edges will help prevent tears. I've done HVAC ducting repairs that way. Then add the silicone glue, duct tape, baling wire, cable ties, etc. Not sure if that will work. That stuff is miserable to patch. Yep, possibly because it has a layer of protective grease or slime on the surface. Sandpaper and solvent cleaner should take care of that. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#26
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 11:32:00 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: Ummm.... duz this pool have a drain? If so, does your HF sump pump fit into the drain? If yes, then just lower the pump into the drain and you'll get more than 3" of of water level. OK, no drain. One more idea. Find a blue tarp or equivalent and slide it UNDER the water and debris. You might need to shovel the debris onto the tarp, but the water should just flow over the tarp. Tie ropes to the sides and corners (usually through eyelets), and carefully lift straight up. You'll loose some water but you should be able to lift most of the yuck out of the mosquito hatchery. If you can't lift it all the way out of the pool, just dump it into the plastic trash can, and then try to lift the trash can[1]. [1] 8.3 lbs/gallon * 30 gallon trash can = 249 lbs. Have an engine hoist handy. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#27
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On Wed, 22 Apr 2015 19:08:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 4/22/2015 4:16 PM, Oren wrote: For some people, the solution is to dig a sump for the pump. True for some people. Not in this case, with a pool. Is a green pool a kind of swimming pool? To drain the neighbor's swimming pool, we turned a valve to "drain" and switched on the pump. I'm so happy for you I cannot express myself. Some swimming pools do have a bottom drain that could work for what Danny D is doing. Even a drill mount pump ![]() "Drill Powered Pump professional drill powered pump tool. Ideal for use with clearing blocked sinks, toilets, dishwashers, water heaters, aquariums, pools... and the list could go on." http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/drill-pump I'm also thrilled beyond description. I'm glad you're glad! -- Sometimes you just have a bad day at the dungeon |
#28
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On Thu, 23 Apr 2015 08:48:23 -0700, Oren wrote:
Even a drill mount pump ![]() "Drill Powered Pump professional drill powered pump tool. Ideal for use with clearing blocked sinks, toilets, dishwashers, water heaters, aquariums, pools... and the list could go on." http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/drill-pump Yech. I had to drain a small swamp under a rental house when the plumbing blew. I had a drill pump and never used it. The problem is that they have no volumetric capacity. My guess is about 1/2 gallon per minute at best. It also can't handle much of a head. Lifting even a few gallons in a 3/4" garden hose up out of a pool is going to take more than what a drill pump can supply. After about an hour of dribbling water and endless clogging, I gave up, rented a proper trash pump, and did the job in a few minutes. The drill pump went into the recycling pile. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#29
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On Thu, 23 Apr 2015 09:35:27 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: On Thu, 23 Apr 2015 08:48:23 -0700, Oren wrote: Even a drill mount pump ![]() "Drill Powered Pump professional drill powered pump tool. Ideal for use with clearing blocked sinks, toilets, dishwashers, water heaters, aquariums, pools... and the list could go on." http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/drill-pump Yech. I had to drain a small swamp under a rental house when the plumbing blew. I had a drill pump and never used it. The problem is that they have no volumetric capacity. My guess is about 1/2 gallon per minute at best. It also can't handle much of a head. Lifting even a few gallons in a 3/4" garden hose up out of a pool is going to take more than what a drill pump can supply. After about an hour of dribbling water and endless clogging, I gave up, rented a proper trash pump, and did the job in a few minutes. The drill pump went into the recycling pile. Makes sense. Strike the drill pump idea. |
#30
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On 4/23/2015 12:35 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Yech. I had to drain a small swamp under a rental house when the plumbing blew. I had a drill pump and never used it. The problem is that they have no volumetric capacity. My guess is about 1/2 gallon per minute at best. It also can't handle much of a head. Lifting even a few gallons in a 3/4" garden hose up out of a pool is going to take more than what a drill pump can supply. After about an hour of dribbling water and endless clogging, I gave up, rented a proper trash pump, and did the job in a few minutes. The drill pump went into the recycling pile. When my parents house cellar flooded, Dad tried a drill pump he'd got from hardware store. Much the same experience, no GMPM and no PSI to speak of. Danny D could use drill pump to fill the trash can or Rubbermaid where the trash pump is. Every now and agint he trash pump would cycle. - .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#31
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On Thu, 23 Apr 2015 13:02:25 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: Danny D could use drill pump to fill the trash can or Rubbermaid where the trash pump is. Every now and agint he trash pump would cycle. I thought the same after mentioning the drill pump. Sure beats a shovel to fill a homer bucket. Moving 5 gallons at a time. |
#32
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On Thu, 23 Apr 2015 10:10:09 -0700, Oren wrote:
Sure beats a shovel to fill a homer bucket. Moving 5 gallons at a time. I'll vote for the shovel. However, it should be a show shovel as I've been repeatedly recommending. Each shovel full holds about 1/2 gallon or 4 lbs of water, which is about right. Any more would be too heavy. Any less, too much shoveling. The best part is that it picks up both the water and the green slime on the bottom of the pool at the same time. No clogs, no jammed pump, and ready to compost in the trash barrel. Oops. No wonder I couldn't find my shovel on the Ace web pile. It's not a snow shovel, but rather a "grain scoop": http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3495129 -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#33
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On 4/22/15 8:26 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 4/22/2015 2:13 AM, Danny D. wrote: Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? I modified a HF fountain pump by taping off the sides, so it would draw closer to the floor of the wet area. Wonder if you can modify this pump? The shovel routine sounds a bit like work. Others suggested a shop vac. When the shop vac is full, you can put the pump into the shop vac canister. Instead of running for the GFCI unplug, just let the float down. Might want to put the pump in a Rubbermaid with enough room for the float to move, while you shovel water into the 18 gallon Rubbermaid. http://www.amazon.com/Wayne-Systems-VIP50-Submersible-Utility/dp/B000CQ6CU4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1429875701&sr=8-10&keywords=trash+pump Needs only 1/8". 2500gph through a garden hose. |
#34
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On 4/24/2015 1:59 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 23 Apr 2015 10:10:09 -0700, Oren wrote: Sure beats a shovel to fill a homer bucket. Moving 5 gallons at a time. I'll vote for the shovel. However, it should be a show shovel as I've been repeatedly recommending. Each shovel full holds about 1/2 gallon or 4 lbs of water, which is about right. Any more would be too heavy. Any less, too much shoveling. The best part is that it picks up both the water and the green slime on the bottom of the pool at the same time. No clogs, no jammed pump, and ready to compost in the trash barrel. Oops. No wonder I couldn't find my shovel on the Ace web pile. It's not a snow shovel, but rather a "grain scoop": http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3495129 The snow shovels found in NYS won't hold a half gal of water: http://img3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb2...SnowShovel.png The grain scoop might be handy for a list of jobs. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#35
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J Burns wrote:
On 4/22/15 8:26 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote: On 4/22/2015 2:13 AM, Danny D. wrote: Have you ever dealt with a dirty water pump that just wouldn't drain the last few inches? Is there a simple solution? I modified a HF fountain pump by taping off the sides, so it would draw closer to the floor of the wet area. Wonder if you can modify this pump? The shovel routine sounds a bit like work. Others suggested a shop vac. When the shop vac is full, you can put the pump into the shop vac canister. Instead of running for the GFCI unplug, just let the float down. Might want to put the pump in a Rubbermaid with enough room for the float to move, while you shovel water into the 18 gallon Rubbermaid. http://www.amazon.com/Wayne-Systems-VIP50-Submersible-Utility/dp/B000CQ6CU4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1429875701&sr=8-10&keywords=trash+pump Needs only 1/8". 2500gph through a garden hose. "Minimum water level to operate pump is 2 5/8-inch" |
#36
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On Fri, 24 Apr 2015 08:07:13 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 4/24/2015 1:59 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Oops. No wonder I couldn't find my shovel on the Ace web pile. It's not a snow shovel, but rather a "grain scoop": http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3495129 The snow shovels found in NYS won't hold a half gal of water: http://img3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb2...SnowShovel.png We don't have much snow (or water) in California, so we don't know what a proper snow shovel looks like. However, we do have plenty of swimming pools and are quite experienced in using a plastic shovel to remove debris from the bottom. When I managed my father's apartment building, fishing everything from broken glass to animal carcasses out of the pool was a regular task. (Note: shovel does not work on furniture tossed into the pool during parties). The half gallon capacity is my guess(tm), and probably wrong. If anyone is interested, I can measure it this weekend. The grain scoop might be handy for a list of jobs. I've used it for everything except shoveling grain. The original motivation for buying one will remain classified information, but since then, it has performed well for all manner of cleanup tasks. The nice part about a plastic scoop is that it doesn't wreck wood floors, carpet, tile, etc like a metal scoop. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#37
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On Fri, 24 Apr 2015 07:45:50 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote: http://www.amazon.com/Wayne-Systems-VIP50-Submersible-Utility/dp/B000CQ6CU4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1429875701&sr=8-10&keywords=trash+pump Needs only 1/8". 2500gph through a garden hose. "Minimum water level to operate pump is 2 5/8-inch" +1 That puts us back to the original subject question. |
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