My lovely wife just came in and asked to take me to town so we can pickup a
new Grizzly G0444Z contractors table saw. What a great surprise for me!
Now I can finally move up from the Craftsman bench saw I've been trying to
use (soon FS in the paper). I'm definately only a hobiest woodworker so a
cabinet model was out of the question.

In exchange, I've been told NOT to mention tools, wood, projects, or
anything else until January - so I'm mentioning it here. What is
recommended to clean the shipping grease from the cast top? The last thing
I want to do is mess up the iron by using the wrong cleaner before I cut my
first board. I'm also trying to decide between TopCoat or Paste Wax to
protect the top after it's cleaned. I haven't seen wax at the local grocery
store and may check at Ace. Otherwise it's another trip to town and
Woodcraft (or mail order from any number of sources).

TIA

Jeremy" wrote in message

What is
recommended to clean the shipping grease from the cast top?

WD40 or mineral spirits works for me. I've used both JPW and TopCote as a
rust control, and the latter seems to work better in the humid Gulf Coast,
at least in my shop (un air-conditioned in Houston, TX).

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

Lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, the usual stuff. I prefer mineral spirits. It
takes a bit longer, but the vapors are less hazardous. If you use regular rags,
it will be quicker than paper towels, and will elave less residue.

I use TopCoat on my cast iron tops, but it has to be resprayed on a fairly
regular schedule.

If you want that saw to cut really great, the one thing more you want to spend
on now is the blade. Make that blades, get a good rip blade, like the Amana 20
tooth Euro ripper, and a generic crosscut, like the Freud 50T all purpose.

Then, come January, upgrade the rip fence if you feel the need. Bies, Unifence,
a friend loves the Vega, they are all good.

Then you can change the pulley to a turned steel one and the belt to a link
belt, but that's really much less important than the blade.
Enjoy!

"Jeremy" wrote in
:

My lovely wife just came in and asked to take me to town so we can
pickup a new Grizzly G0444Z contractors table saw. What a great
surprise for me! Now I can finally move up from the Craftsman bench
saw I've been trying to use (soon FS in the paper). I'm definately
only a hobiest woodworker so a cabinet model was out of the question.

In exchange, I've been told NOT to mention tools, wood, projects, or
anything else until January - so I'm mentioning it here. What is
recommended to clean the shipping grease from the cast top? The last
thing I want to do is mess up the iron by using the wrong cleaner
before I cut my first board. I'm also trying to decide between
TopCoat or Paste Wax to protect the top after it's cleaned. I haven't
seen wax at the local grocery store and may check at Ace. Otherwise
it's another trip to town and Woodcraft (or mail order from any number
of sources).

TIA




Saw tops are typically coated in cosmoline which is petroleum based.Any
petroleum based solvent will cut it. Delta recommends (or did in the manual
for my saw anyway) kerosene. I've used Wd-40 succesfully as well as mineral
spirits.

would you ask your wife to call my wife and tell her how she did that..
smirks..
I need a little help in that direction


--
"Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up
and hurry off as if nothing happened." Sir Winston Churchill


"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Jeremy" wrote in message

What is
recommended to clean the shipping grease from the cast top?

WD40 or mineral spirits works for me. I've used both JPW and TopCote as a
rust control, and the latter seems to work better in the humid Gulf Coast,
at least in my shop (un air-conditioned in Houston, TX).

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04




---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.784 / Virus Database: 530 - Release Date: 10/27/2004

Don't worry much about messing up the metal top with most cleaning solvents.
But you do need to be a little careful with the paint. For removal I have
had great luck with Citrus based degreasers. Just put it on, let is set for
a few moment and work the thicker areas with fingertips. Then wipe off with
a wad of paper towels. As others said, WD40 works well just a little
messier.

For protection I bought a product from Grizzly called SLIPIT. It is a
protectant and contact lubricant. Comes in spray and brush-on paste form.
The Grizzly rep recommended brush on. It was $10 a can for most of a
lifetime supply. Works well when used a few times a year.

Griz is pretty good about providing touch up paint if the paint is scratched
or damaged.

RonB

"Jeremy" wrote in message
...
My lovely wife just came in and asked to take me to town so we can pickup
a
new Grizzly G0444Z contractors table saw. What a great surprise for me!
Now I can finally move up from the Craftsman bench saw I've been trying to
use (soon FS in the paper). I'm definately only a hobiest woodworker so a
cabinet model was out of the question.

In exchange, I've been told NOT to mention tools, wood, projects, or
anything else until January - so I'm mentioning it here. What is
recommended to clean the shipping grease from the cast top? The last
thing
I want to do is mess up the iron by using the wrong cleaner before I cut
my
first board. I'm also trying to decide between TopCoat or Paste Wax to
protect the top after it's cleaned. I haven't seen wax at the local
grocery
store and may check at Ace. Otherwise it's another trip to town and
Woodcraft (or mail order from any number of sources).

TIA



'Hoo be "SHMBO"? You don't have an affinitity for a certain central
Virginia university, do you?

Gary

"DarylRos" wrote in message
...
Lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, the usual stuff. I prefer mineral
spirits. It
takes a bit longer, but the vapors are less hazardous. If you use regular
rags,
it will be quicker than paper towels, and will elave less residue.



I would caution everyone about using lacquer thinner. It will attack some
plastics, and also some enamel paints.
On the other hand, mineral spirits are pretty safe. Either one will burn, so
no smoking!
Greg

Grizzly rules.

I got my G5959Z cabinet saw 8 months ago, cleaned the surfaces with WD40 and
since then SLIPIT has protected the surface. I have applied it on all my
jigs and slades with excellent results.

The reason for my good mood is that today I just learned that the G0543
jointer is available with a solid 75" table. The original G0500 and G0543
had 65" table with two 5" extensions. The confirmation from Grizzly was not
easy - in phone, web site, and once through e-mail they claimed that the
solid single-piece table was not available. After two independent e-mail
confirmations, I was convinced that the one-piece table is available.

I did order the jointer today and should get it on next week.

Cheers, Ollie

"RonB" wrote in message
news:iidgd.36233$EZ.5403@okepread07...
Don't worry much about messing up the metal top with most cleaning
solvents. But you do need to be a little careful with the paint. For
removal I have had great luck with Citrus based degreasers. Just put it
on, let is set for a few moment and work the thicker areas with
fingertips. Then wipe off with a wad of paper towels. As others said,
WD40 works well just a little messier.

For protection I bought a product from Grizzly called SLIPIT. It is a
protectant and contact lubricant. Comes in spray and brush-on paste form.
The Grizzly rep recommended brush on. It was $10 a can for most of a
lifetime supply. Works well when used a few times a year.

Griz is pretty good about providing touch up paint if the paint is
scratched or damaged.

RonB

No, just a brain cramp. Or maybe I was thinking of "How the Grinch Stole
Christmas" a favorite of SWMBO.
"Gary" wrote in message
link.net...

"Jeremy" wrote in message
...
My lovely wife just came in and asked to take me to town so we can
pickup
a
new Grizzly G0444Z contractors table saw. What a great surprise for me!
Now I can finally move up from the Craftsman bench saw I've been trying
to
use (soon FS in the paper). I'm definately only a hobiest woodworker so
a
cabinet model was out of the question.

In exchange, I've been told NOT to mention tools, wood, projects, or
anything else until January - so I'm mentioning it here. What is
recommended to clean the shipping grease from the cast top? The last
thing
I want to do is mess up the iron by using the wrong cleaner before I cut
my
first board. I'm also trying to decide between TopCoat or Paste Wax to
protect the top after it's cleaned. I haven't seen wax at the local
grocery
store and may check at Ace. Otherwise it's another trip to town and
Woodcraft (or mail order from any number of sources).

TIA



'Hoo be "SHMBO"? You don't have an affinitity for a certain central
Virginia university, do you?

Gary

I wasn't too confident about the can labeled paint (or lacquer) thinner
either, although at Ace paint thinner and minneral spirits seemed to be
interchangeable. I came out with a quart of 100% Oderless Minneral Spirits,
Johnson's Original Paste Wax, and a tube of silicone to put in the joints of
the stand. I saw that in one of my Taunton's books to reduce vibration and
noise on contractor saws.
"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"DarylRos" wrote in message
...
Lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, the usual stuff. I prefer mineral
spirits. It
takes a bit longer, but the vapors are less hazardous. If you use
regular
rags,
it will be quicker than paper towels, and will elave less residue.



I would caution everyone about using lacquer thinner. It will attack some
plastics, and also some enamel paints.
On the other hand, mineral spirits are pretty safe. Either one will burn,
so
no smoking!
Greg

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 11:45:02 -0600, "Jeremy"
wrote:

What is recommended to clean the shipping grease from the cast top?

Kerosene is far and away the best solvent for shipping grease
(cosmoline). More agressive solvents such as lacquer thinner may
potentially damage finishes elsewhere on the saw.

Trust me, mineral spirits, WD-40, etc., do NOT work as well.

What does SHMBO mean?

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 17:31:41 -0400, "Ollie"
wrote:

LR - What is the problem with WD40? It has worked fine for my cleaning and
other purposes.

It may very well be that WD-40 does an adequate job. It has not been
my experience that it does, with respect to cosmoline/packing grease.
Kerosene, however, cuts it like butter. It's as if it was made for it,
which, in a backwards way, it probably was.

It is my opinion, based on my experience, that those who espouse
mineral spirits, WD-40, and other mild solvents have not tried
kerosene because if they had, they would never bother with the others.

It is that much better.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

LR - What is the problem with WD40? It has worked fine for my cleaning and
other purposes.

Btw, we know that you know what SHMBO means. It is just a different
spelling for hu (who that is).

Cheers -- Ollie

"LRod" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 11:45:02 -0600, "Jeremy"
wrote:

What is recommended to clean the shipping grease from the cast top?

Kerosene is far and away the best solvent for shipping grease
(cosmoline). More agressive solvents such as lacquer thinner may
potentially damage finishes elsewhere on the saw.

Trust me, mineral spirits, WD-40, etc., do NOT work as well.

What does SHMBO mean?

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

"LRod" wrote in message

It is my opinion, based on my experience, that those who espouse
mineral spirits, WD-40, and other mild solvents have not tried
kerosene because if they had, they would never bother with the others.

It is that much better.

Maybe ... but I rarely have any other use for kerosene in a woodshop, while
WD40, another petroleum based product with similar solvent properties, is
always on-hand due to its usefulness for other tasks in a woodshop.

Besides, it is also THE 'killer app' for cleaning the stainless steel on
stove, rangehood, and refrigerator doors and tops.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 17:32:49 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

"LRod" wrote in message

It is my opinion, based on my experience, that those who espouse
mineral spirits, WD-40, and other mild solvents have not tried
kerosene because if they had, they would never bother with the others.

It is that much better.

Maybe ... but I rarely have any other use for kerosene in a woodshop, while
WD40, another petroleum based product with similar solvent properties, is
always on-hand due to its usefulness for other tasks in a woodshop.

Besides, it is also THE 'killer app' for cleaning the stainless steel on
stove, rangehood, and refrigerator doors and tops.

Heh, heh. In my yout when I worked at a factory that manufactured
stainless steel sterilizing machines for labs and hospitals, we used
to clean them up before crating with a mixture of kerosene and motor
oil.

Yeah, I use WD-40 on the stainless stuff in the kitchen (range,
fridge, dishwasher, hood), but since I have kerosene in the shop for
cleaning off packing grease, maybe I'll mix some up the next time I
clean the kitchen.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

LRod wrote:

It is my opinion, based on my experience, that those who espouse
mineral spirits, WD-40, and other mild solvents have not tried
kerosene because if they had, they would never bother with the others.

It is that much better.

I agree. I got a new table saw last spring, covered in that goo, with wax
paper or something stuck down in the muck. I tried mineral spirits first,
because I had some at hand. It worked slowly, and didn't have enough oomph
to soak through and get up all that paper crap. Then I tried some
ultra-pure lamp oil, which is basically highly refined kerosene. Night and
day. It didn't even smell much.

(It makes great trumpet valve oil too. $1.50 for a 1/4 oz. bottle of
official bona fide trumpet valve oil vs. $6 for half a gallon of Ultra
Pure. Hrm. I'll bet a chemical analysis would reveal they're the same
damn stuff.)

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

In article ,
LRod wrote:
On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 17:31:41 -0400, "Ollie"
wrote:

LR - What is the problem with WD40? It has worked fine for my cleaning and
other purposes.

It may very well be that WD-40 does an adequate job. It has not been
my experience that it does, with respect to cosmoline/packing grease.
Kerosene, however, cuts it like butter. It's as if it was made for it,
which, in a backwards way, it probably was.

It is my opinion, based on my experience, that those who espouse
mineral spirits, WD-40, and other mild solvents have not tried
kerosene because if they had, they would never bother with the others.

It is that much better.

*Any* 'light petroleum distillate' (kerosene, diesel fuel, gasoline, mineral
spirits, paint-thinner, 'Coleman fuel', naphtha, etc.) works almost equally
as well as any of the others. (WD-40 _is_ built around a 'light petroleum
distillate' base, but it is *very* expensive per unit of said distillates.)

Equipment manufacturers recommend kerosene for two primary reasons:
(1) it is the _least_ flammable of the collection,
(2) it is generally the 'least expensive' of the choices.

In addition, it is *usually* 'readily available' almost everywhere.

"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message

Equipment manufacturers recommend kerosene for two primary reasons:
(1) it is the _least_ flammable of the collection,
(2) it is generally the 'least expensive' of the choices.

In addition, it is *usually* 'readily available' almost everywhere.


If you can't find kero easily, buy lamp oil at Wal Mart.