Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for $59.99.
I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).

I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP...,
1.5HP
(and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate the
*consistency* offered by greater power).

The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife makers, were
those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand). I
guess this
is what is known as the "slippery slope".

I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to my
"low volume".
As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window shopper"
for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
with what
they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market place).

Bill

Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for $59.99.
I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).

OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
ha ha!)


I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4
HP..., 1.5HP
(and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate the
*consistency* offered by greater power).

The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife makers,
were
those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand). I
guess this
is what is known as the "slippery slope".

I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to
my "low volume".
As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window shopper"
for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
with what
they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market
place).

Bill

Not sure its a good recommendation or not. I have a Makita belt sander. 4x24 inch I think. The big handheld belt sander. I have a wood contraption I can turn it over and use it as a stationary sander. Small stationary sander compared to the dedicated models. Kind of a dual purpose machine with the little homemade stand.




On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:15:55 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing

for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started

reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
$59.99.

I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).*



I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4
HP..., 1.5HP

(and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate
the

*consistency* offered by greater power).



The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife
makers, were

those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand).*
I guess this

is what is known as the "slippery slope".*



I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due
to my "low volume".

As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window
shopper"

for the moment.* I just thought I would see how happy people here
are with what

they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market
place).



Bill

"Bill" wrote in message

Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for $59.99.
I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).

I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP...,
1.5HP
(and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate the
*consistency* offered by greater power).

The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife makers,
were those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand).
I
guess this
is what is known as the "slippery slope".

I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to my
"low volume".
As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window
shopper"
for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
with what
they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market
place).

Bill

I have a Rikon. It is alright. I use the disk a lot, belt rarely. If I
had it to do over, I would probably go for a 12" disk (only) sander and
skip the belt.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote in :

"Bill" wrote in message

Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
$59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).

I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4
HP..., 1.5HP
(and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate
the *consistency* offered by greater power).

The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife
makers, were those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a
closed stand). I
guess this
is what is known as the "slippery slope".

I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to
my "low volume".
As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window
shopper"
for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
with what
they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market
place).

Bill

I have a Rikon. It is alright. I use the disk a lot, belt rarely.
If I had it to do over, I would probably go for a 12" disk (only)
sander and skip the belt.

I'd agree with dadiOH. I have a 4x24 stationary belt+disk
sander (ancient Delta model) which very very rarely gets
used. Generally only if I need to adjust the size of a
piece of particle board or something like that that I don't
want to use a plane on(*). The disk & table can be useful.
More often the hand-held belt sander is more useful than
the stationary belt.

(you can plane particle board, of course, but only if you
don't mind sharpening the blade frequently).

John

On 12/12/2014 2:11 PM, Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for $59.99.
I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).

I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP...,
1.5HP
(and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate the
*consistency* offered by greater power).

The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife makers, were
those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand). I
guess this
is what is known as the "slippery slope".

I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to my
"low volume".
As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window shopper"
for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
with what
they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market place).

Bill


I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it much,
didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I do like
the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.

But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
sanding.



--
Jeff

On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:20:56 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing


As a hobbyist, I've been using a 1975 Craftsman 4X24 handheld belt sander. I flip it over, as Russell, to use as a stationary. Just recently, it is showing signs of the brushes or something wearing out. It's been making ugly groaning noises at startup. After a minute or 2, it sounds better, but it's not purring.

I vote get a good handheld, for now..... heavy weight and increase AMPs. With the handheld, let the weight of the sander be the applied pressure, i.e.., don't apply additional pressure, while sanding.

Sonny

On 12/12/2014 5:58 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:20:56 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing


As a hobbyist, I've been using a 1975 Craftsman 4X24 handheld belt sander. I flip it over, as Russell, to use as a stationary. Just recently, it is showing signs of the brushes or something wearing out. It's been making ugly groaning noises at startup. After a minute or 2, it sounds better, but it's not purring.

I vote get a good handheld, for now..... heavy weight and increase AMPs. With the handheld, let the weight of the sander be the applied pressure, i.e., don't apply additional pressure, while sanding.

Sonny


I have a Ryobi handheld that is like the Bosch. It has a sanding frame
so it can be used for large flattening. The frame is great.

The flat top on it makes it easy to flip over but I don't need to use
it. Like I said b4.

--
Jeff

Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
snip
---------------------------------------------
It's a classic POS product, IMHO.

Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.

Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
will have some decent equipment.

Lew

Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
$59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).

OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
ha ha!)


Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually even
start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop worth of
stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get using some of the
stuff you've got...

--

-Mike-

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started


I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my initial
reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke shave to smooth
them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled with a plane and inside
curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools could turn out to be faster
than the rasp or sanding...

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
$59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
ha ha!)

Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually even
start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop worth of
stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get using some of the
stuff you've got...

Didn't I say I was making push sticks? And, I mean ones suitable for
giving away to friends. : )

John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message
...
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started


I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my
initial reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke
shave to smooth them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled
with a plane and inside curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools
could turn out to be faster than the rasp or sanding...

Thank you for that insight, John! It had not occurred to me to use a
plane or a spoke shave for the curves--and it was *never* going to occur
to me to use a plane that way!
I appreciate the lesson!

Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
$59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
ha ha!)

Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually even
start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop worth of
stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get using some of the
stuff you've got...

I'm learning. Look what John taught me with his post! And I learned
quite a bit about air compressors, and their
substitutes such as electric paint sprayers, last week! I'm sure if you
lived next door and could provide me with your instruction
that I would be further along. And I could maybe borrow your tools! ; )

Bill

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
snip
---------------------------------------------
It's a classic POS product, IMHO.

Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.

Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
will have some decent equipment.

Lew


Tonight I worked my way from there. To the Ridgid oss/edge sander combo
tool ($200) which I looked at long enough
until it started seeming cheap (i.e. of somewhat low quality) to me.
Then up to the Jet benchtop 12" sander and OSS
which are about $1K for the two. The Jet OSS as well as the Ridgid OSS
both have mitered (tilting) tables. It seems like
a nice way to bevel off the corners (of many things). I will see how I
do first with the spokeshave and hand plane (as John suggested).
I am likely to enjoy the peace and quiet they offer.

Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
$59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
ha ha!)

Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually even
start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop worth of
stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get using some of the
stuff you've got...


Maybe I should go to the doctor and find out whether I have an Iron
deficiency? ; )

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
snip
---------------------------------------------
It's a classic POS product, IMHO.

Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.

Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
will have some decent equipment.

Lew


Here you go Lew, here's both in one:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Osci...c-Sander/G0529

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw,
I started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
$59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP
(ha ha ha!)

Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually
even start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop
worth of stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get
using some of the stuff you've got...

Didn't I say I was making push sticks? And, I mean ones suitable for
giving away to friends. : )


Now that's a Christmas gift idea. I'd order one for my wife but I'm afraid
she'd use it on me...

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw,
I started
reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
$59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP
(ha ha ha!)

Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually
even start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop
worth of stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get
using some of the stuff you've got...

I'm learning. Look what John taught me with his post! And I learned
quite a bit about air compressors, and their
substitutes such as electric paint sprayers, last week! I'm sure if
you lived next door and could provide me with your instruction
that I would be further along. And I could maybe borrow your tools! ; )


Oh no - you probably don't want to take advice from me! Unless you like
learning things the hard way, that is.

--

-Mike-

These are good points. Get a heavy belt sander and use it upside down when
you need to. Two jobs in one.

For a disc sander, make your own. I used an old motor and mounted a pulley
on it, then drilled and tapped three screw holes to hold a round piece of
MDF for the disc sandpaper base. You can stick the shaft of the motor out a
little past the pulley to use as a pilot center for the disc to keep it
centered. I made a rest for the wood out of some plywood and hinged it with
some piano hinge on the sides, so I can tilt the rest and sand bevels. On
the rest, I also put two threaded inserts to hold a fixed miter gauge so I
can repeat the same angle again and again.
this is a case where power is not real important. If you press hard enough
into the disc that you need a bigger motor, all you do is load up or ruin
the sandpaper. I think mine is about 1/5 HP, or about 4 amps.

"woodchucker" wrote in message
...

On 12/12/2014 5:58 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:20:56 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing


As a hobbyist, I've been using a 1975 Craftsman 4X24 handheld belt
sander. I flip it over, as Russell, to use as a stationary. Just
recently, it is showing signs of the brushes or something wearing out.
It's been making ugly groaning noises at startup. After a minute or 2,
it sounds better, but it's not purring.

I vote get a good handheld, for now..... heavy weight and increase AMPs.
With the handheld, let the weight of the sander be the applied pressure,
i.e., don't apply additional pressure, while sanding.

Sonny


I have a Ryobi handheld that is like the Bosch. It has a sanding frame
so it can be used for large flattening. The frame is great.

The flat top on it makes it easy to flip over but I don't need to use
it. Like I said b4.

--
Jeff


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com

On 12/13/2014 12:49 AM, Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
snip
---------------------------------------------
It's a classic POS product, IMHO.

Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.

Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
will have some decent equipment.

Lew


Tonight I worked my way from there. To the Ridgid oss/edge sander combo
tool ($200) which I looked at long enough
until it started seeming cheap (i.e. of somewhat low quality) to me.
Then up to the Jet benchtop 12" sander and OSS
which are about $1K for the two. The Jet OSS as well as the Ridgid OSS
both have mitered (tilting) tables. It seems like
a nice way to bevel off the corners (of many things). I will see how I
do first with the spokeshave and hand plane (as John suggested).
I am likely to enjoy the peace and quiet they offer.

Bill



The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
and is surprisingly well made.



--
Jeff

Bill wrote in
:

John Grossbohlin wrote:

I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my
initial reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke
shave to smooth them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled
with a plane and inside curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools
could turn out to be faster than the rasp or sanding...

Thank you for that insight, John! It had not occurred to me to use a
plane or a spoke shave for the curves--and it was *never* going to
occur to me to use a plane that way!
I appreciate the lesson!

To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...-block-planes?
node=4072

or something similar, you need one. It's the most useful tool
in the shop, ideal for making tiny adjustments in length or
thickness, putting a quick chamfer on an edge, making a square-
section piece into a round section (I used mine to make the
mast & yards for my sailing dingy)...you'll find it's always
on your bench.

John

(* sometimes I think there's too many of us Johns)

John McCoy wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

John Grossbohlin wrote:
I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my
initial reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke
shave to smooth them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled
with a plane and inside curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools
could turn out to be faster than the rasp or sanding...
Thank you for that insight, John! It had not occurred to me to use a
plane or a spoke shave for the curves--and it was *never* going to
occur to me to use a plane that way!
I appreciate the lesson!
To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...-block-planes?
node=4072

or something similar, you need one.

Lie_Nielsen, huh? I have "something similar"!

Cheers,
Bill

It's the most useful tool
in the shop, ideal for making tiny adjustments in length or
thickness, putting a quick chamfer on an edge, making a square-
section piece into a round section (I used mine to make the
mast & yards for my sailing dingy)...you'll find it's always
on your bench.

John

(* sometimes I think there's too many of us Johns)

woodchucker wrote:
On 12/13/2014 12:49 AM, Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:
Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
snip
---------------------------------------------
It's a classic POS product, IMHO.

Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.

Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
will have some decent equipment.

Lew


Tonight I worked my way from there. To the Ridgid oss/edge sander combo
tool ($200) which I looked at long enough
until it started seeming cheap (i.e. of somewhat low quality) to me.
Then up to the Jet benchtop 12" sander and OSS
which are about $1K for the two. The Jet OSS as well as the Ridgid OSS
both have mitered (tilting) tables. It seems like
a nice way to bevel off the corners (of many things). I will see how I
do first with the spokeshave and hand plane (as John suggested).
I am likely to enjoy the peace and quiet they offer.

Bill



The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not
universal and is surprisingly well made.


Thank you for your comment, Jeff. Coming back "down to Earth", that
tool should probably be on my short wish list.
Probably a common situation among those here, my wife was urging me to
go to the store to choose a tool for myself for Christmas.
I'll watch whether maybe the Ridgid edge/OSS goes on sale in the next
few weeks. In the meantime, I'll try out my spokeshave! : )
I think my 2 spokeshaves, which I picked up at auction, are flat (as
opposed to round), but it should be okay...


I ordered this book and gave it to my wife to wrap up for Christmas


"40 Power Tools You Can Make (Woodworking Classics)"

I hope she likes it! ; )

Bill

woodchucker wrote in news:6oGdnbZAT_hpDRHJnZ2dnUU7-
:

The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
and is surprisingly well made.

Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.
A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
spec tool.

John

(* the founder's name was Ridge)

woodchucker wrote:
I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.

But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.




I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
sanding.

On 12/13/2014 8:11 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.

But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.




I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
sanding.




you would melt the polyc.

that's because they are induction motors while the hand held are
universal motors. The induction can not be speed controlled by voltage.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 12/13/2014 8:11 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.

But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.




I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
sanding.




you would melt the polyc.

that's because they are induction motors while the hand held are
universal motors. The induction can not be speed controlled by voltage.


Thank you for that short lesson about motors, it is worth remembering!
I went and visited the Ridgid sander at Home Depot tonight,
and went to Menards too, as long as I was driving by, for the stated
purpose of checking sanding tube availability, as well as window
shopping the pneumatic tools.
I have to say that the MasterForce (Menards brand) tools appear that
they would hold up better than the Ridgid brand tools to me. I'd pay
more to get more.
I think the Ridgid sander is intended to be a "consumable" much like
Swingman described the 3-6 gallon air compressors. I think the same
applied to all of the "plastic" handheld power tools at Menards, I
suppose--that's just about ALL they have. I don't argue that they don't
provide good value. I saw someone write, "they won't remind you of your
grandfather's tools...". Somewhere tucked in the back of my memory is
a Porter Cable belt sander from 1978, or so--that someone was Proud to
show me. They didn't have anything bigger than a 3" plastic handheld
belt sander at Menards. The salesman said that's what the "average joe"
wants. Lew has told me before, I was shopping in the wrong places.
I'll give my hand tools a spin.

Cheers,
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message

woodchucker wrote:
I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.

But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.


I have no idea what "BS marks" might be but it sands OK to remove/shape
material. All plastics do but you get a buildup of fused particles along
the trailing edge. Easy to knock off with a file or knife.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Bill wrote:

I have to say that the MasterForce (Menards brand) tools appear that
they would hold up better than the Ridgid brand tools to me. I'd pay
more to get more.
I think the Ridgid sander is intended to be a "consumable" much like
Swingman described the 3-6 gallon air compressors.

I've never been in a Menards store Bill, so I have no idea what the quality
of their private label tools are, but I can tell you that Ridgid brand is a
very good brand of tool. It would surprise me if a chain store sold a
private label tool that was superior in quality to it.

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote in :

They didn't have anything bigger than a 3" plastic handheld
belt sander at Menards. The salesman said that's what the "average joe"
wants.

FWIW, a 4" handheld belt sander can be tedious to use. For
most applications a 3x21 is sufficient and easier to handle.

John

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

I've never been in a Menards store Bill, so I have no idea what the
quality of their private label tools are, but I can tell you that
Ridgid brand is a very good brand of tool. It would surprise me if a
chain store sold a private label tool that was superior in quality to
it.

As I mentioned elsewhere, most Ridgid tools are made by Ryobi.

I leave it to everyone's individual opinions as to the quality
of Ryobi tools, and whether Ridgid branded tools are better
or worse than Ryobi branded ones.

(but I agree that Menard's house brand is unlikely to be of
any better quality).

John

Bill wrote in news:m6i5lb01mq7
@news7.newsguy.com:

John McCoy wrote:

To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...-block-planes?
node=4072

or something similar, you need one.

Lie_Nielsen, huh? I have "something similar"!

Not so long ago, if you wanted a plane your choice was either
rehabilitating an old Stanley, or buying from Lie-Nielsen.
Now there are more choices in quality planes, but out of
habit I always recommend L-N. (plus many of the Veritas
planes are just plain ugly, whereas the L-N all look like
a tool should look).

John

dadiOH wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message

woodchucker wrote:
I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.

But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.


I have no idea what "BS marks" might be but it sands OK to
remove/shape material. All plastics do but you get a buildup of fused
particles along the trailing edge. Easy to knock off with a file or
knife.



Sorry, "BS marks" = marks left by a band saw. Thank you for your answer!

Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

I have to say that the MasterForce (Menards brand) tools appear that
they would hold up better than the Ridgid brand tools to me. I'd pay
more to get more.
I think the Ridgid sander is intended to be a "consumable" much like
Swingman described the 3-6 gallon air compressors.
I've never been in a Menards store Bill, so I have no idea what the quality
of their private label tools are, but I can tell you that Ridgid brand is a
very good brand of tool. It would surprise me if a chain store sold a
private label tool that was superior in quality to it.


It wasn't a direct apples-to-apples comparision. But I thought that the
MasterForce 6"-belt x 9" disk sander looked more robust
than the Ridgid, and it was on sale for $20 less than the Ridgid unit.
Here's another fact,
the nearest Ridgid "Customer Service Center" is at a rental-station
store more than 50 miles from Indianapolis. What does that
say about how much they care about their customers? The unit in
question has a lot of plastic parts...almost all. The main spindle
on the Ridgid, that runs all of the way the motor is used for every
operation. It is a built-in defect. Also, unsealed bearings.
When you consider that an inital stock of sanding materials could
approach $100, does one really want to "invest" in that unit?
I hope this shows that I did my homework, if nothing else.

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

Maybe I should go to the doctor and find out whether I have an Iron
deficiency? ; )

LOL

On 12/13/2014 10:59 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 12/13/2014 8:11 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.

But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.




I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
sanding.




you would melt the polyc.

that's because they are induction motors while the hand held are
universal motors. The induction can not be speed controlled by voltage.


Thank you for that short lesson about motors, it is worth remembering! I
went and visited the Ridgid sander at Home Depot tonight,
and went to Menards too, as long as I was driving by, for the stated
purpose of checking sanding tube availability, as well as window
shopping the pneumatic tools.
I have to say that the MasterForce (Menards brand) tools appear that
they would hold up better than the Ridgid brand tools to me. I'd pay
more to get more.
I think the Ridgid sander is intended to be a "consumable" much like
Swingman described the 3-6 gallon air compressors. I think the same
applied to all of the "plastic" handheld power tools at Menards, I
suppose--that's just about ALL they have. I don't argue that they don't
provide good value. I saw someone write, "they won't remind you of your
grandfather's tools...". Somewhere tucked in the back of my memory is
a Porter Cable belt sander from 1978, or so--that someone was Proud to
show me. They didn't have anything bigger than a 3" plastic handheld
belt sander at Menards. The salesman said that's what the "average joe"
wants. Lew has told me before, I was shopping in the wrong places. I'll
give my hand tools a spin.

Cheers,
Bill





Most hand held tools today are plastic Bill. In many ways it's superior.
It's lighter, it's self insulating (electrically). It can drop without
cracking the case to some degree. Even the Festools are plastic Bill. I
think you are being too critical. With your experience I think most will
work for you.

--
Jeff

On 12/14/2014 11:33 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Bill wrote in news:m6i5lb01mq7
@news7.newsguy.com:

John McCoy wrote:

To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...-block-planes?
node=4072

or something similar, you need one.

Lie_Nielsen, huh? I have "something similar"!

Not so long ago, if you wanted a plane your choice was either
rehabilitating an old Stanley, or buying from Lie-Nielsen.
Now there are more choices in quality planes, but out of
habit I always recommend L-N. (plus many of the Veritas
planes are just plain ugly, whereas the L-N all look like
a tool should look).

John

I have both. They are both good quality.

The veritas have some nice features. I like the set screws that center
the blade so you don't chip the blade on the corner. Wish the lie
nielsen would have that. I don't have any bronze castings, but a friend
does and he claims that they color his wood as he works with them and
curses them out. my bronze is in the handle on an 60 1/2 block plane, I
have the pre-nicker model.

I love my LN dovetail saw. Would like some of their bedrocks...
But I like my Veritas low angle #5. I like having multiple blades.

--
Jeff

On 12/13/2014 1:08 AM, Bill wrote:
Maybe I should go to the doctor and find out whether I have an Iron
deficiency? ; )

Better than a wood deficiency...

(hey, *somebody* had to say it)

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

woodchucker wrote:
Most hand held tools today are plastic Bill. In many ways it's
superior. It's lighter, it's self insulating (electrically). It can
drop without cracking the case to some degree. Even the Festools are
plastic Bill. I think you are being too critical. With your experience
I think most will work for you.



You are probably right, in that most would work for me. But think about
the edge sander being otherwise unsupported except by the main spindle,
rather like a flag. The vibrations will start increasing from there,
starting as soon as you use it. That's what I meant earlier by a
"built-in defect". I think the unit is okay as a consumable. It's
lightness is a convenience. The unit I am comparing to is the Jet
JBOS-5 which is closer to $400 on sale. So adding $100 worth of sanding
abrasives, the Ridgid is $300 and the Jet is $500.

Best,
Bill