Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club,
I have been without tools for some time. Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill. Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit that cost $400-$600. This time, something for an occasional hole drilling or screw driving will get the job done. Time to look at Harbor Freight. Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger and one battery for $16.99. Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain sucks. It requires 3-5 hours to charge. It has a red and a green pilot light. The green light indicates it is connected to shore power. The red light indicates the battery is being charged. There is no indication when the battery is recharged. Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it. Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around exists for a charging system. Buy a 2nd drill. You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger, and a 2nd drill which is always handy. Best of all, you have less than $40 invested. Not a bad deal, if it works. Time will tell. Lew power is connected |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
I started writing about my experience buying HF cordless drills until I
realized how dumb I looked getting suckered more than once. The drills are virtually indestructible and as strong as needed for drilling, driving and trailer jack power. However the batt4ry chargers are the worst available for any tool. Absolutely worthless. They burn out faster than a light bulb in a rock tumbler. The chargers are junk and have no fuse to replace when they burn out. The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under $100. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On 10/12/2014 10:50 PM, JohnnyDollar wrote:
I started writing about my experience buying HF cordless drills until I realized how dumb I looked getting suckered more than once. The drills are virtually indestructible and as strong as needed for drilling, driving and trailer jack power. However the batt4ry chargers are the worst available for any tool. Absolutely worthless. They burn out faster than a light bulb in a rock tumbler. The chargers are junk and have no fuse to replace when they burn out. The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under $100. $69 on sale a couple of times a year with 2 batteries. Yep, a pretty good buy. While not the best batteries, they are pretty good. Not pro rated, but I have seen many pros using them as they are cheap, and can replace the batteries inexpensively. -- Jeff |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On 10/12/2014 10:50 PM, JohnnyDollar wrote:
The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under $100. I'm going to have to make a decision in a couple of months. I have a Panasonic 15.6V that I really like. Nice size and enough power for anything I do. The batteries, however, are starting to lose charge fast. My options: Brand new drill kit with 2 batteries and charger is $190 Panasonic batteries are $195 for two Expert Power batteries are $102 for two. (I'm leaning this way) Rebuild both batteries for $130 All the options cost more than the Ryobi, but I really like the weight and balance of the Panasonic. I have an 18V Porter Cable, but it is my second choice when I grab a drill. I also use a Bosch quick change chuck in both of them. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club, I have been without tools for some time. Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill. Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit that cost $400-$600. This time, something for an occasional hole drilling or screw driving will get the job done. Time to look at Harbor Freight. Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger and one battery for $16.99. I think that's the one someone bought me for a wedding present. It is better at drilling than driving (screws). I know that YOU, of all people, are familiar with the expression which equates to the fact that you get what you pay for... I wish you luck with it! Bill Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain sucks. It requires 3-5 hours to charge. It has a red and a green pilot light. The green light indicates it is connected to shore power. The red light indicates the battery is being charged. There is no indication when the battery is recharged. Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it. Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around exists for a charging system. Buy a 2nd drill. You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger, and a 2nd drill which is always handy. Best of all, you have less than $40 invested. Not a bad deal, if it works. Time will tell. Lew power is connected |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:543b3110$0$1593
: Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club, I have been without tools for some time. Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill. Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit that cost $400-$600. This time, something for an occasional hole drilling or screw driving will get the job done. Time to look at Harbor Freight. Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger and one battery for $16.99. Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain sucks. It requires 3-5 hours to charge. It has a red and a green pilot light. The green light indicates it is connected to shore power. The red light indicates the battery is being charged. There is no indication when the battery is recharged. Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it. Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around exists for a charging system. Buy a 2nd drill. You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger, and a 2nd drill which is always handy. Best of all, you have less than $40 invested. Not a bad deal, if it works. Time will tell. Lew I use timers on my NiCd battery chargers. In the 3-5 hours it takes to charge a battery, I've usually forgotten about the battery being charged. Some timers are easy to set up to only shut off, while others require surgery. (The ones with the pins are super easy. Just remove the 'on' pin.) There are some chargers out there, though, that will discharge a battery if left "unplugged" with the battery in. It's always a good idea to remove the battery after it's done charging even if you aren't going to use it. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On 10/12/2014 7:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club, I have been without tools for some time. If that is a constant problem, get some spray paint and give all your tools the most garish, butt-ugly paint job you can think of. Either people will stop borrowing your tools, or they will return them just to relieve their eyes, or you will be able to spot your tools among theirs from a mile away. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On 10/12/2014 10:44 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/12/2014 10:50 PM, JohnnyDollar wrote: The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under $100. I'm going to have to make a decision in a couple of months. I have a Panasonic 15.6V that I really like. Nice size and enough power for anything I do. The batteries, however, are starting to lose charge fast. My options: Brand new drill kit with 2 batteries and charger is $190 Panasonic batteries are $195 for two Expert Power batteries are $102 for two. (I'm leaning this way) Rebuild both batteries for $130 All the options cost more than the Ryobi, but I really like the weight and balance of the Panasonic. I have an 18V Porter Cable, but it is my second choice when I grab a drill. I also use a Bosch quick change chuck in both of them. I had a Panasonic way back when, early 90's. The only drill that I have liked better is the Festool T15. Yes it is expensive but the T15-3 kit comes with well designed attachments and believe it or not I pretty much have not used my 12 volt Makita or 18 volt Bosch impact drivers since getting the Festool Drill driver. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On 10/13/2014 11:00 AM, Leon wrote:
I had a Panasonic way back when, early 90's. The only drill that I have liked better is the Festool T15. Yes it is expensive but the T15-3 kit comes with well designed attachments and believe it or not I pretty much have not used my 12 volt Makita or 18 volt Bosch impact drivers since getting the Festool Drill driver. Oh, I can believe you; nice looking tool. Most of u really don't need the 18V and more that just adds weight for driving a #6 x 1 1/4" screw. Maybe some day. I can keep the Panasonic going for $100 versus $500 for the Festool. If I used it two hours or more a day I'd go for it. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club, I have been without tools for some time. Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill. Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit that cost $400-$600. This time, something for an occasional hole drilling or screw driving will get the job done. Time to look at Harbor Freight. Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger and one battery for $16.99. Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain sucks. It requires 3-5 hours to charge. It has a red and a green pilot light. The green light indicates it is connected to shore power. The red light indicates the battery is being charged. There is no indication when the battery is recharged. Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it. Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around exists for a charging system. Buy a 2nd drill. You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger, and a 2nd drill which is always handy. Best of all, you have less than $40 invested. Not a bad deal, if it works. Time will tell. Lew I use a corded 3/8 variable speed for sanding the inside of bowls. I try to keep the dust blown out of it but in the last 14 years I have gone through two DeWalts and a BD. In all of them the switch failed, and a new switch costs nearly as much as another drill. This time I got a HF for $12. The cord is stiffer than a DeWalt but otherwise it works well. As you say, time will tell. -- GW Ross Fife. n. Small shrill instrument that rhymes with wife. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 01:02:05 -0600, Just Wondering
wrote: On 10/12/2014 7:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote: Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club, I have been without tools for some time. If that is a constant problem, get some spray paint and give all your tools the most garish, butt-ugly paint job you can think of. Either people will stop borrowing your tools, or they will return them just to relieve their eyes, or you will be able to spot your tools among theirs from a mile away. Then people will just think they're Ryobi or Panasonic. ;-) |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
Lew, I bought one of the Rybobi kits for $99 at a Father's Day sale after talking to my electrician. He swears by the Ryobis. They last him about 3 years of daily use (he does use the crap out of them!) and then something goes wrong. He tosses the drill in the garbage and buys another. He was so keen on them being solid performers I had to try them out as the drill kit I really wanted was $300, but I didn't want to spend the money.
So far, so good. I go a drill that has done everything I need it to do (really... even as a contractor I don't need to drive a couple of hundred 3" screws into kiln dried oak) for my normal repair work. The impact driver has been a great surprise. I don't use it often, but it is a slick little tool. I drove several 3" deck screws into hard yellow pine (no pilot holes)and it worked like a champ! Honestly, I didn't think it would do the job,but after about 25, the driver wasn't breathing hard. Battery life is very good, the do indeed charge in an hour, and replacement batteries are only $39. So for two tools, two batteries, a charger and a carry case, I am thinking at this point after a few months of use that my electrician could be on to something. That and the fact they have a 3 year limited warranty. I have a fella that used to work for me that has retired and is on a very tight budget. He bought one or the other of the HF cordless drills and he really likes it. The only draw back for him was his came with one battery, and took all of the 4 hours he allotted to recharge. He said the battery life is pretty good, but since batteries are about $19 at HF, he told me that he was buying another battery if he starts a larger home project. Until then, the said the HF fills the bill for a few screws and holes now and then, so he is pretty happy with his purchase. Robert |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
JohnnyDollar wrote: The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under $100. --------------------------------------------------------------- Ed Pawlowski wrote: I'm going to have to make a decision in a couple of months. I have a Panasonic 15.6V that I really like. Nice size and enough power for anything I do. The batteries, however, are starting to lose charge fast. My options: Brand new drill kit with 2 batteries and charger is $190 Panasonic batteries are $195 for two Expert Power batteries are $102 for two. (I'm leaning this way) Rebuild both batteries for $130 All the options cost more than the Ryobi, but I really like the weight and balance of the Panasonic. I have an 18V Porter Cable, but it is my second choice when I grab a drill. I also use a Bosch quick change chuck in both of them. ------------------------------------------------------------ While cost is an issue, staying with your beloved Panasonic is what is driving your evaluation process. Since you will be paying a price premium regardless of your decision, buying a new drill for $190 offers you several added benefits, especially if the new batteries are L-Ion. You will be able to get "drill" and "drive" dedicated units, no quick change chuck req'd. You get a back up charger. Most of all, you will be happy staying with a unit you like. Have fun. Lew |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
"G. Ross" wrote: I use a corded 3/8 variable speed for sanding the inside of bowls. I try to keep the dust blown out of it but in the last 14 years I have gone through two DeWalts and a BD. In all of them the switch failed, and a new switch costs nearly as much as another drill. This time I got a HF for $12. The cord is stiffer than a DeWalt but otherwise it works well. As you say, time will tell. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Abrasive dust and electric devices just don't coexist very well. When I was fairing out the boat hull, generated lots of fairing putty dust which is very abrasive. The only way to keep the sander/polisher units running was to spend about 5-10 minutes at the end of the day with a blow gun blowing the dust out of all the cavities of the sander/polisher. Even with that maintenance routine, Milwaukee was the only one that survived. Lew |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
wrote: I have a fella that used to work for me that has retired and is on a very tight budget. He bought one or the other of the HF cordless drills and he really likes it. The only draw back for him was his came with one battery, and took all of the 4 hours he allotted to recharge. He said the battery life is pretty good, but since batteries are about $19 at HF, he told me that he was buying another battery if he starts a larger home project. Until then, the said the HF fills the bill for a few screws and holes now and then, so he is pretty happy with his purchase. ----------------------------------------------------------------- That pretty well describes my situation today. Just need to be able to drill/screw a couple of pieces now and then. Was able to buy a complete drill with battery and charger for $16.99. A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill for another $16.99 instead. So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got two (2) complete systems. Now if the stuff holds together, I'm good to go. Lew |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On Monday, October 13, 2014 3:59:12 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill for another $16.99 instead. So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got two (2) complete systems. Now if the stuff holds together, I'm good to go. I had to chuckle when I read that. An excellent idea! From time to time I actually use two drills during an operation such as drilling holes and immediately driving in screws. Or drilling holes then running in the counter sink. A great time to have two drills! So good sir, for $40 you are set! I do hope you use them for a few months and let the rest of us know how you like them. A drill like that would be perfect for my brother in law. He bought a DeWalt 18v years ago after talking to me about cordless drills, but after about 5 years of sitting in his garage having been used (literally) for a couple of drilled holes and the couple of screws that went in said holes, the batteries won't hold a charge. Since the official DeWalt battery for his drill is $90 for one, he won't bite on a battery. So the drill sit unused, worthless. A drill like one of those HF models would make and excellent replacement for the DeWalt. He and my sister just bought a small piece of land and it has a really small cabin on it that he has plans for repairs and remodeling.... with no electricity up there and the need for only occasional use the HF could be the ticket... Robert |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 3:32:37 AM UTC-5, wrote:
A drill like one of those HF models would make and excellent replacement for the DeWalt. He and my sister just bought a small piece of land and it has a really small cabin on it that he has plans for repairs and remodeling.... with no electricity up there and the need for only occasional use the HF could be the ticket... PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
Lew Hodgett wrote:
A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill for another $16.99 instead. So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got two (2) complete systems. Now if the stuff holds together, I'm good to go. ------------------------------------------------------ SFWIW, got a flyer from HD indicating that for the next week, this drill is $14.99. While in the process of getting a drill, also needed some drill bits. Gone are the days when I needed full sets of number drills, fractional drills and brad point drills. Now all I need is something to meet my DIY needs and a way to store them away. To that extent, Ryobi/Home Depot offered the following: http://tinyurl.com/lnypxc8 Somebody had done the marketing about as well as it can be done. Multiple copies of the popular sizes, a full range of sizes from 1/16" thru 1/2" with a step down shaft to 3/8" for the 1/2" drill, and a well built non metallic drill index storage. Price: $11.00. The only draw back is these are black oxide drills. Not something I would expect to be able to use on a daily basis, but I no longer need that kind of performance. If I do a project that requires high usage of a |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
Opps, hit the wrong key.
--------------------------------------- Lew Hodgett wrote: A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill for another $16.99 instead. So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got two (2) complete systems. Now if the stuff holds together, I'm good to go. ------------------------------------------------------ SFWIW, got a flyer from HD indicating that for the next week, this drill is $14.99. While in the process of getting a drill, also needed some drill bits. Gone are the days when I needed full sets of number drills, fractional drills and brad point drills. Now all I need is something to meet my DIY needs and a way to store them away. To that extent, Ryobi/Home Depot offered the following: http://tinyurl.com/lnypxc8 Somebody had done the marketing about as well as it can be done. Multiple copies of the popular sizes, a full range of sizes from 1/16" thru 1/2" with a step down shaft to 3/8" for the 1/2" drill, and a well built non metallic drill index storage. Price: $11.00. The only draw back is these are black oxide drills. Not something I would expect to be able to use on a daily basis, but I no longer need that kind of performance. If I do a project that requires high usage of a Opps ----------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------- If I do a project that requires high usage of a particular size, there is always Grainger down the street. Again, time will tell. Lew |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On 10/15/2014 10:17 PM, Leon wrote:
PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48. Go anywhere but Primecell. They only have a pro rated 90 day warranty. And yes they stung me. 90 days seems common, but pro-rated seems like BS. Add in postage and why bother after the first month or so. |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On 10/15/2014 9:48 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/15/2014 10:17 PM, Leon wrote: PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48. Go anywhere but Primecell. They only have a pro rated 90 day warranty. And yes they stung me. 90 days seems common, but pro-rated seems like BS. Add in postage and why bother after the first month or so. Exactly! I ended up going to Batteries Plus, the battery in question was crap shortly after 60 days. I bought a new battery at Batteries Plus and it had a 1 year warranty. It was not the same manufacturers battery and was only a few dollars more expensive than the rebuilt from Prime Cell. A big plus, Batteries Plus has OEM Li-ion batteries too. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
Lew Hodgett wrote:
A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill for another $16.99 instead. So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got two (2) complete systems. ------------------------------------------------ Thanks to Puckdropper for suggesting a timer for the battery charger, made another trip to HF where I found a suitable timer for $4.99. Let's see now, two (2) cordless drills, a drill index box of drill bits and a timer. Not only is this becoming an investment of note, but also an engineering project. Oh well, keeps me out of bars at night and wild women on the week ends. Lew |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On Thu, 16 Oct 2014 19:40:22 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote: Lew Hodgett wrote: A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill for another $16.99 instead. So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got two (2) complete systems. ------------------------------------------------ Thanks to Puckdropper for suggesting a timer for the battery charger, made another trip to HF where I found a suitable timer for $4.99. Let's see now, two (2) cordless drills, a drill index box of drill bits and a timer. Not only is this becoming an investment of note, but also an engineering project. Oh well, keeps me out of bars at night and wild women on the week ends. I really don't want to know what you're doing with your drills. |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
Lew, we are taking the trip on the RYOBI drill bits together. When I bought the drill, I decided to set it up as a kit since there was room in the bag. So the RYOBI drill/driver set also has RYOBI drill bits to go along with it. I hate looking for bits, etc., as when I am ready to go, ..I am ready to go!..
So indexes, while they don't have usually have the best quality bits in them, keep the bit organized, all in one place, and protect themselves from rubbing around on one another to dull the bits while in transport or in the truck. I have so far found the bits to be satisfactory as I have never needed numbered drills as 90% of my work is woodwork, and my metal work is roof flashing and other water diverting fabrication that requires only 1/8" drill for rivets. Most of the screws I use on my metal work are self tapping, so not a lot of metal drilling these days. So the RYOBI bits have worked well so far. I have drilled a lot of wood, plastic, and other soft stuff and a few smaller holes in metal with them. They work just fine. I did drill some 3/16 soft steel plate holes a while back an the bits did fine, using pneumatic nail gun oil as a lubricant. Like everyone else, I would rather have a professional grade index from BluMol, Lennox and the like, but this is 1/5 the cost and does what I need for now. The only numbered bits I have these days are in the little case with my tap and die set that I use once every ten years. Since I drill a lot of pilot holes for wood screws and nails, I am not that interested in the exact bit to be used. I still use the same old method I was taught, and that was to match a bit to the screw that allowed you to see the entire thread of the screw, but no the shaft itself (unless fastening soft wood). With that in mind, I have bought a grab bag of resharpened drill bits from HF before, and they were as good as any bits I have ever bought, period. They are from some manufacturing industry, maybe event their own, and the come really sharp, properly along the length of the shaft as well, and straight. These bags of bits aren't always available and when I have found them they come in all lengths, sizes and twist variations. Perfect for wood working. They aren't marked with sizes (I don't need that) but are very finely ground and finished. They sell a big bag of bits covered in oil that has about 25 to 30 bits or so for $7. They are all smaller sizes like 3 3/32nds to about 5/16ths, and no guarantee which sizes you get. They also have a jumbo size, which only has a few really large bits in them, but they are too large for my wood working needs. Robert |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
|
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message ... On 10/15/2014 9:48 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 10/15/2014 10:17 PM, Leon wrote: PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48. Go anywhere but Primecell. They only have a pro rated 90 day warranty. And yes they stung me. Ditto that. Three or four years back I spent $72 for two Primecell rebuilds for a 12v Mikita impact driver. I didn't need the tool right away but wanted to have the availability if I needed. Several months passed before I had that need. The Primecell rebuilds wouldn't even take a charge. Dave in Houston |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On Friday, October 17, 2014 8:42:09 PM UTC-5, Dave in Texas wrote:
Ditto that. Three or four years back I spent $72 for two Primecell rebuilds for a 12v Mikita impact driver. I didn't need the tool right away but wanted to have the availability if I needed. Several months passed before I had that need. The Primecell rebuilds wouldn't even take a charge. I remember Leon's post about that from some years back. I had a Makita battery rebuilt here in town by a company that specializes in rebuilt batteries for older tools, but will do newer ones as well. They rebuilt my battery for my beloved Makita 14.4v monster, and it worked great. However, they went out of business. One of the reasons I finally decided on the Ryobi was because of the lack of ability to find good rebuilds along with the my problem of putting a $90 battery in an 8 year old drill. Looking at the Ryobi, it came with two batteries (granted, low milliamp models) but they recharge in 30 minutes. They also come with a three year battery warranty along with the rest of the tool. If lost, they can be replaced with an exact match for $35. You can also buy up the battery amperage and get much stronger batteries for a few dollars more. After trying out the drill and driving a hundred or so screws with no pilot hole, I think this will be fine for me. The drill wasn't close to breathing hard. Even as a contractor, I don't drill more than a hundred holes or drive more than a hundred screws all at once very often. So I don't have the huge battery needs a lot of guys do. And if I did, the other battery is charged and waiting be used, and another fully charge battery is only 30 minutes away. I am totally off any rebuilds for now. If my tool failed when using it on a job and the failure was due me being a little too tight with a buck by buying a rebuild I would be really ****ed off myself. Robert |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
|
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell
On Saturday, October 18, 2014 8:11:16 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Ryobi seems to have many followers for the reasons you state. One fellow I know just tosses it every few years and buys a new set of cordless tools. Yessir, and I made that reference in an earlier thread somewhere around here. It seems to be a trend. I don't think most "high performance" "professional tools" are worth the money these days. I make a living with my tools so I don't save a dime to spend a dollar, but so many of the more expensive tools we see these days are not much better quality than the home owner varieties it is pathetic. 40 years ago when I saved up to buy a real Milwaukee "hole shooter" it was a big drill. $90 for a corded drill 40 years ago! Used on the job nearly daily for a decade and off and on since then, it still runs. I have worn out more circular saws than I can count from my days as a production house/commercial framer, and then as a contractor. Milwaukees were the top of the heap then. My oldest Milwaukee is around 30 years old, and I finally got tired of rebuilding it with switch, bearings and cord when it came up to $125 or so to do it. But... it still works. My oldest Milwaukee Sawzall with the all aluminum housing and red lightening bolts down the side was my only recip saw for years and years. I bought it in a pawn shop for $50 bucks in the late 70s, and it still goes to the job once in a while when I need it. (It was replaced with a 15amp monster oscillating recip model.) I wear out tools now, so I always look at performance first, then bang for the buck. If I worked in a shop like Leon and NO ONE ELSE touched, handled or used my tools (rumor has it Karl was allowed to use the Domino machine only under close supervision, then just once...!) I would most likely buy Festool or brands similar and know they would last me the rest of my life. But I have to balance the price with the fact that my tools might get dropped or knocked off a scaffold or ladder (by me!), be used in the rain, subject to misuse by others, theft, or anything else out of my area of control. On a job, $hit just happens sometimes. I am hoping that this new Ryobi drill/driver set fills the bill for a while.. I am not really at risk for many dollars, and although now I find I use the impact driver much less than I thought I would it is a handy tool when needed. For its warranty, I almost bough the Rigid 18v li drill, but the handles are just too damn small for my mitts. Robert |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the
recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the battery is finished recharging. Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf componets. Enjoy. Lew ------------------------------------------------------------------ Hardwa 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip. 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets. 2, LED night lights. Directions: Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and "OFF" for 19 hours. I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM. Plug timer into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet. Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet. Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery to be recharged. Plug power outlet strip into a source of power. Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam. Turn the power outlet strip "ON". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "ON". When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "ON". After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the LED night light plugged into timer outlet will turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "OFF". At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "OFF". Remove the battery and allow to cool. NOTES: The timer only allows the recharger to be on for 5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours. It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned off the power during that 19 hour period. |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:5444bd2c$0$44749
: The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the battery is finished recharging. Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf componets. Enjoy. Lew ------------------------------------------------------------------ Hardwa 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip. 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets. 2, LED night lights. Directions: Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and "OFF" for 19 hours. I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM. Plug timer into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet. Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet. Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery to be recharged. Plug power outlet strip into a source of power. Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam. Turn the power outlet strip "ON". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "ON". When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "ON". After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the LED night light plugged into timer outlet will turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "OFF". At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "OFF". Remove the battery and allow to cool. NOTES: The timer only allows the recharger to be on for 5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours. It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned off the power during that 19 hour period. Why do you need all the extra stuff? The LED night lights and power strips? I just plug the timer in, set the off time to the charge time, and let it go. If you buy a timer that uses pins, all you have to do to disable the "on" function is remove the pin. (Others require a bit of cutting with a knife...) You do need to remove the battery from the charger, though, as many NiCD chargers don't include any kind of discharge protection (a fancy way of saying an ultra cheap --less than $0.01/charger-- diode.) It's usually not too bad, though. Catch it the next day or something and you'll still have most of a full charge. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
Why reinvent a cheaply made charger? Buy a good drill and save more in
the long run. I'll never waste another dime on a Harbor Freight drill. |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
On Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:37:35 -0700, Whaley
wrote: Why reinvent a cheaply made charger? Buy a good drill and save more in the long run. I'll never waste another dime on a Harbor Freight drill. +1 |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
I learned that trick charging ni-cads on my RC airplane. How to
have the batteries ready when I fly only 1 mourning a week. This keeps the battery from over charging or 'burning out' also. I have my emergency power for 12v and jumper cable power box this way. I my 11" telescope power pack for the RV wheel set this way. Works. Martin On 10/20/2014 2:43 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote: The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the battery is finished recharging. Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf componets. Enjoy. Lew ------------------------------------------------------------------ Hardwa 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip. 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets. 2, LED night lights. Directions: Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and "OFF" for 19 hours. I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM. Plug timer into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet. Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet. Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery to be recharged. Plug power outlet strip into a source of power. Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam. Turn the power outlet strip "ON". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "ON". When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "ON". After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the LED night light plugged into timer outlet will turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "OFF". At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "OFF". Remove the battery and allow to cool. NOTES: The timer only allows the recharger to be on for 5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours. It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned off the power during that 19 hour period. |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
|
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
"Lew Hodgett" wrote: The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the battery is finished recharging. Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf componets. Enjoy. Lew ------------------------------------------------------------------ Hardwa 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip. 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets. 2, LED night lights. Directions: Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and "OFF" for 19 hours. I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM. Plug timer into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet. Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet. Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery to be recharged. Plug power outlet strip into a source of power. Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam. Turn the power outlet strip "ON". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "ON". When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "ON". After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the LED night light plugged into timer outlet will turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "OFF". At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "OFF". Remove the battery and allow to cool. NOTES: The timer only allows the recharger to be on for 5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours. It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned off the power during that 19 hour period. ------------------------------------------------- "Puckdropper" wrote: Why do you need all the extra stuff? The LED night lights and power strips? I just plug the timer in, set the off time to the charge time, and let it go. If you buy a timer that uses pins, all you have to do to disable the "on" function is remove the pin. (Others require a bit of cutting with a knife...) You do need to remove the battery from the charger, though, as many NiCD chargers don't include any kind of discharge protection (a fancy way of saying an ultra cheap --less than $0.01/charger-- diode.) It's usually not too bad, though. Catch it the next day or something and you'll still have most of a full charge. --------------------------------------------------------- Pilot lights, in this case LED night lights are always optional in a control system. They earn their keep by providing information in a fashion that is easier to get and use than without them. In this case, they provide information about the status of the charging system from several feet away. The timer is large enough that if you plug it directly into a wall mounted duplex receptacle, you will block at least one receptacle, maybe more from a 2 gang duplex receptacle configuration. The only way to resolve this problem is to add an extension cord to allow remote location connection of the timer. These days, the cost of a 6 circuit switched power outlet strip is just the lowest cost extension cord available. SFWIW, the timer is not being used in a normal fashion. You program a single 5 hour "ON" time cam once and forget it. I used a toothpick to get around my fat fingers problem. No attempt is made to calibrate the timer to the "Real World" time. It's not relevant. You are only interested in a 5 hour chunk of time. The pilot lights provide this information in the blink of the eye at a cost of about $5/pair for the LED night lights. To each his own, but I'm willing to make that investment. Lew |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message eb.com... The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the battery is finished recharging. Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf componets. Enjoy. Lew ------------------------------------------------------------------ Go one better. Add a manual 7 day timer, plugged into the 24 hour timer. If you set it so it starts a one day 6 hour cycle when you start the charge, the same thing happens. It charges and shuts off, but since it will only run the 7 day timer for 5 hours per day and then stop, it will take about a month before the charger (plugged into the output strip of the 7 day timer) to start. No need to switch it over. Letting it charge once per month or so will keep it full. Old rc'er trick. 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip. 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets. 2, LED night lights. Directions: Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and "OFF" for 19 hours. I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM. Plug timer into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip. Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet. Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet. Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery to be recharged. Plug power outlet strip into a source of power. Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam. Turn the power outlet strip "ON". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "ON". When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "ON". After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the LED night light plugged into timer outlet will turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger will turn "OFF". At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF". The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip should turn "OFF". Remove the battery and allow to cool. NOTES: The timer only allows the recharger to be on for 5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours. It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned off the power during that 19 hour period. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
|
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Time Will Tell - Update
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: To be fair, the last time I asked HF Drill, the same one Lew bought, to help me mix paint for two days it did not disappoint. But a "driver" it is not. Why do you say that Bill? Because it left me disappointed from time to time (see if it will drive a #10 screw). But it's probably a good bang for the buck. Lew has surely used more drills than I have. Maybe he will do a review. I haven't used enough drills to do a good review. |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
If you will threaten Sherry's pavement from time to time clients, it will consistently travel the protocol. | Metalworking | |||
Just scheduling from time to time a bathroom in search of the garage is too historic for Joie to glare it. | Electronics Repair | |||
Start Part-Time and then Replace your Full Time Income | Electronics Repair | |||
Start Part-Time and then Replace your Full Time Income | Woodworking | |||
Furnace low heat run time = A/C low cool run time | Home Repair |