So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that you love
that new saw more than her?

--

-Mike-

On 11/29/2013 1:04 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today?


Is your wife telling you that you love
that new saw more than her?

+1

--
Jeff

Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that you love
that new saw more than her?

It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. I have plans to move the
saw into its rightful stand, into its appropriate place (not sure if I
should try that by myself) and install an appropriate outlet soon. In
the meantime, I had to settle for turkey and dressing, Canasta, apple
cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage
before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure the saw
was okay...

Bill

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that
you love that new saw more than her?

It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. I have plans to move the
saw into its rightful stand, into its appropriate place (not sure if I
should try that by myself) and install an appropriate outlet soon. In
the meantime, I had to settle for turkey and dressing, Canasta, apple
cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the
garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
the saw was okay...


Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.

--

-Mike-

On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
times today just to make sure the saw was okay...

Glad you didn't tuck it in...

I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
Works great, 5 minutes of work.
Has never caused a problem for me.
Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.

See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.


--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
times today just to make sure the saw was okay...

Glad you didn't tuck it in...

I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
Works great, 5 minutes of work.
Has never caused a problem for me.
Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.

See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.


How is that splitter (fundamentally) different than this one that came
with the saw, except that its attached to the blade guard? Maybe you
are not aware that I have it now? Please see the bottom of the page at
the following link:

http://web.newsguy.com//MySite/Splitter.pdf

woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
sort I need to use!

Thanks,
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage

I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit... I put
one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that replaced it.
The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages you to actually
use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.

John

Bill wrote in
:

Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade? Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for
practice anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away
from the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches
for this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this
is the sort I need to use!

Thanks,
Bill

Didn't the saw come with the appropriate wrenches? On the two saws I've
had, the wrenches were long enough to keep my hands safely away from the
teeth during tightening and loosening operations.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 11/29/2013 1:28 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade? Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for
practice anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away
from the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches
for this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this
is the sort I need to use!

Thanks,
Bill

Didn't the saw come with the appropriate wrenches? On the two saws I've
had, the wrenches were long enough to keep my hands safely away from the
teeth during tightening and loosening operations.

Puckdropper



Typically and of that era the saws came with an arbor nut wrench. It is
best to also use an arbor wrench. My old Jet cabinet saw did not come
with 2 wrenches I had to order the extra, my SawStop came with 2 wrenches.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the blade.
.....

You only need one wrench for the Unisaw, and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade. (I also use a dampener.) You just need to snug it and the rotation will spin the nut sufficiently tight.

I'd recommend this - it's a combined nut and flange to hold the blade. It's made my life a lot easier. It allows me to change blades in a matter of seconds, so I rarely use a combination blade. Here's a site that's selling this, and I have no interest blah, blah ...

http://www.tylertool.com/delta-36-20...32-288241267-2

John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message ...

cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage

I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit...
I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that
replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages
you to actually use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.

John
Thanks for the review of the product as well as the retailer!

Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today?

It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. Admittedly I did look into the
garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
the saw was okay...

Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.

Thanks Mike, please send money! No saw without a Christmas??? : )

Bill

On 11/29/2013 1:54 PM, wrote:

You only need one wrench for the Unisaw,

My UniSaw uses two, one for the "arbor w/flange", and one for the "jam
nut" on the outside of the blade and "flange", and came with both:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink


and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade.

True, the direction of the rotation of the blade, after the arbor nut is
snugged, insures the nut will not loosen.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 11/29/2013 11:53 AM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
times today just to make sure the saw was okay...

Glad you didn't tuck it in...

I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
Works great, 5 minutes of work.
Has never caused a problem for me.
Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.

See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.


How is that splitter (fundamentally) different than this one that came
with the saw, except that its attached to the blade guard? Maybe you
are not aware that I have it now? Please see the bottom of the page at
the following link:

http://web.newsguy.com//MySite/Splitter.pdf
Because you will want an outfeed table. It makes it much easier and
safer to work rather than having the wood you are cutting tip toward the
floor and you reaching over the blade.

With an outfeed table you don't want the back support. It requires you
to remove too much of the table to tilt your blade. Just remove the rear
support rod.

--
Jeff

On 11/29/2013 12:09 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
sort I need to use!

Thanks,
Bill
Until you become familiar your feed rate is a learning process too slow
you burn the blade.

Don't feed correctly you can bend the plate during a kick back.

Trust me until you are moderately familiar there are stupid things that
can be done... But a reasonable blade on it, then upgrade it after
making some sawdust. just my opinion, a soft recommendation.

BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.



--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 11/29/2013 12:09 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

Until you become familiar your feed rate is a learning process too
slow you burn the blade.

I knew you could burn the wood. I didn't think about "burning" the blade.

Don't feed correctly you can bend the plate during a kick back.

Well, we are NOT going to have any kick back!

Trust me until you are moderately familiar there are stupid things
that can be done...
I don't doubt you for a second.

But a reasonable blade on it, then upgrade it after making some
sawdust. just my opinion, a soft recommendation.
Ask Lew, I'm not the sort that has lots of extra hundred dollar bills to
toss around! The saw came with a sharp blade on it, and with no wrench!
The best way to proceed seems evident. : )

Bill


BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.

"Bill" wrote in message ...

John Grossbohlin wrote:

I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit...
I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that
replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages
you to actually use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.


Thanks for the review of the product as well as the retailer!

I'll post some photos to abpw so you can see how it looked mounted.

John

John Grossbohlin wrote:

I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM
unit... I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet
cabinet saw that replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the
ease of use encourages you to actually use it! BTW, I got them
both from Mike's.

I'll post some photos to abpw so you can see how it looked mounted.
---------------------------------------------------------
That's the beast.

As John said, "You actually use it".

Lew

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 15:08:29 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today?

It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. Admittedly I did look into the
garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
the saw was okay...

Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.

Thanks Mike, please send money! No saw without a Christmas??? : )

You're going to need the money for Christmas. You have to at least
balance the saw!

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 12:09:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
sort I need to use!

The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches. One is open-ended
to slips behind the blade to capture the arbor and the other is
box-end wrench used for the nut. Both are stamped steel and fit in a
slot in the motor cover.

You can also get one of these. I find it's too much trouble, but you
may find otherwise. http://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-blade-loc

BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
cards.

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 11:54:29 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the blade.
....

You only need one wrench for the Unisaw, and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade. (I also use a dampener.) You just need to snug it and the rotation will spin the nut sufficiently tight.

Unisaws use two. One for the arbor and one for the nut.

I'd recommend this - it's a combined nut and flange to hold the blade. It's made my life a lot easier. It allows me to change blades in a matter of seconds, so I rarely use a combination blade. Here's a site that's selling this, and I have no interest blah, blah ...

http://www.tylertool.com/delta-36-20...32-288241267-2

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 14:11:59 -0600, Swingman wrote:

On 11/29/2013 1:54 PM, wrote:

You only need one wrench for the Unisaw,

My UniSaw uses two, one for the "arbor w/flange", and one for the "jam
nut" on the outside of the blade and "flange", and came with both:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink


and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade.

True, the direction of the rotation of the blade, after the arbor nut is
snugged, insures the nut will not loosen.

Right. You don't want anything moving after setup and you certainly
don't want the blade slipping. Snug is necessary.

wrote:

BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
cards.

Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.

Not much, but I'll take what I can get.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 17:05:34 -0500, Bill
wrote:

woodchucker wrote:
On 11/29/2013 12:09 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

Until you become familiar your feed rate is a learning process too
slow you burn the blade.

I knew you could burn the wood. I didn't think about "burning" the blade.

Don't feed correctly you can bend the plate during a kick back.

Well, we are NOT going to have any kick back!

We're not? Well, I haven't had a lot of trouble with it but not all
are so lucky. I made up for it with kickbacks from my RAS. ;-)

Trust me until you are moderately familiar there are stupid things
that can be done...
I don't doubt you for a second.

Never reach across the blade. Hands on one side. Eyes on blade.

But a reasonable blade on it, then upgrade it after making some
sawdust. just my opinion, a soft recommendation.
Ask Lew, I'm not the sort that has lots of extra hundred dollar bills to
toss around! The saw came with a sharp blade on it, and with no wrench!
The best way to proceed seems evident. : )

;-)

You might want to inspect the blade to make sure it's still flat. It's
pretty easy to do, at this level anyway, by clamping a straight-edge
(or something) to the table. Adjust it to just touch a tooth. Rotate
the blade by hand (saw unplugged) and observe the other teeth. Some
will be not touch but half (or every third, depending on the blade)
should.



BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.

I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
works.

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 18:52:12 -0600, Swingman wrote:

wrote:

BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
cards.

Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.

Mine is left-tilt. also. If I stand on the left side I'd have to
reach across the blade. That's a pretty awkward position, compared
with standing in front.

Not much, but I'll take what I can get.

;-)

wrote:


Mine is left-tilt. also. If I stand on the left side I'd have to
reach across the blade. That's a pretty awkward position, compared
with standing in front.

Nothing awkward about it ... allows you to get both hands in front of you
and equally into play. Try it a few times, before you knock it.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote:
wrote:


Mine is left-tilt. also. If I stand on the left side I'd have to
reach across the blade. That's a pretty awkward position, compared
with standing in front.

Nothing awkward about it ... allows you to get both hands in front of you
and equally into play. Try it a few times, before you knock it.

Then again, I learned a long time ago that you don't need to raise the
blade to the full height to change it.

With the blade lowered to about half height, or less, there is more than
enough room for two LARGE hands. I generally put the index finger of the
left hand on the end of the arbor shaft, after the the nut is placed with
the right hand, and before turning it ... haven't dropped an arbor nut that
way in ten years, more or less.

Particular handy position when mounting a dado set.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

wrote:

BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.

I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
works.

On my list too. I use roller stands also, and they work, but not as well as
an outfeed. Maybe soon...

--

-Mike-

On Friday, November 29, 2013 6:45:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches.

Bill bought the used saw at an auction. The Unifence was initially on the shaper (table), the shaper's mobile base was under the Unisaw, the saw's mobile base was on top the saw/side table. Seems some parts for the different tools were scattered about the auction site. The saw's wrenchs and miter guage were not with the saw and no telling where the auction folks misplaced them, if they were ever there in the first place.

Bill, I'd take a peek inside the cabinet, to see if the wrenches have been stashed inside, there, among the sawdust.

Sonny

BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
----------------------------------------------------------

Once again, Norm to the rescue.

http://tinyurl.com/qg88zdr

Check out the roller stand.

It's stable which is more than you can say for the fold up units.

Lew

wrote:
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 17:05:34 -0500, Bill
wrote:

woodchucker wrote:
BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
works.

What do they call the ones that look like a series of long roller stands?

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 18:00:29 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

On Friday, November 29, 2013 6:45:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches.

Bill bought the used saw at an auction. The Unifence was initially on the shaper (table), the shaper's mobile base was under the Unisaw, the saw's mobile base was on top the saw/side table. Seems some parts for the different tools were scattered about the auction site. The saw's wrenchs and miter guage were not with the saw and no telling where the auction folks misplaced them, if they were ever there in the first place.

Yeah, I should have been clearer. When I said "should have" I meant
that it was "supposed to", not that it's lost (well, it is ;-) or that
he got screwed. They "should be" available as parts, though.

Bill, I'd take a peek inside the cabinet, to see if the wrenches have been stashed inside, there, among the sawdust.

Good idea.

On 11/29/2013 6:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
wrote:

BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
cards.

Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.

Not much, but I'll take what I can get.



So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.

And while it is a left tilt the "large" access door is on the right
under the extension table.

I have dropped the nut once before and I know that it is a 50/50 chance
of dropping into the dust chute or in to the BLACK innerds of the saw.
So I crawl down there with a flash light that has dead batteries and
cant see s____ because of the BLACK innerds of the TS. I wiggle the
dust hose and hear nothing. I feel around inside the BLACK bowels of
the TS and feel nothing. Out of the corner of my eye I see a BLACK lump
inside the front corner of the motor cover door. Sure enough that is
the nut. The nut dropped, bounced off the dust hose, did a triple sow
cow and landed in the door. What the heck are the chances.... Well the
chances are now, 33/33/33/1, not sure about the 1 yet.

So feeling right proud of myself for actually finding the nut where it
should not have been at all, I stand back up walk over to remove the
flange washer and, wait for it, wait for it, yup you guessed it. The
flange washer fell deep down into the BLACK innerds of the TS.

Now I know I have a 33/33/33/1 chance of it being in 4 different places.
Back down I go on my hands and knees crawl inside and rattle the dust
hose and sure enough that is where it landed. Fortunately that thing
comes off real easy. Unfortunately my arm does not real fit in that
hose... After a While I did get it off and got the washer out.

I put the nut and washer on top of the saw, removed the blade and went
inside for the night.

BTY I was standing to the left of the blade, wait for it, wait for it,






TWO TIMES!!! eh Rovert?

"Leon" wrote:

So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.

And while it is a left tilt the "large" access door is on the right
under the extension table.
snip

------------------------------------------------------
Leon,

Are you the one with the tilting roller conveyor used as a run out
table for your T/S?

Lew

On 11/29/2013 9:08 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
----------------------------------------------------------

Once again, Norm to the rescue.

http://tinyurl.com/qg88zdr

Check out the roller stand.

It's stable which is more than you can say for the fold up units.

Lew


I personally like the outfeed better than the rollers.
But I know that Leon likes the rollers better.



--
Jeff

Sonny wrote:
On Friday, November 29, 2013 6:45:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches.
Bill bought the used saw at an auction. The Unifence was initially on the shaper (table), the shaper's mobile base was under the Unisaw, the saw's mobile base was on top the saw/side table. Seems some parts for the different tools were scattered about the auction site. The saw's wrenchs and miter guage were not with the saw and no telling where the auction folks misplaced them, if they were ever there in the first place.

Bill, I'd take a peek inside the cabinet, to see if the wrenches have been stashed inside, there, among the sawdust.

Sonny

I thought of that possibility this afternoon. I checked. No wrench, but
I learned that "those legs" really need to be under the extension
table. I came too close to tipping it. I figured out a plan to move the
saw from one base to the other, while I was out there. I will just
skooch it out of one base and set in right into the other. I will seek
a willing helper.

I suspect someone can help me with this question.
The saw came with 3 sizable black things--2 appears to be "plastic"
motor covers, and the other (metal) looks like a basin. There is a 4"
round dust port on the back (bottom) of the saw, so I assume the one
black motor cover is used when that dust port is being use. I assume
the motor cover with a rectangular slot/adaptor (4"?) is used for an
alternate form of dust collection. Then there is the rectangular "black
metal basin" that is at least 3" deep. It actually fits in the inside
of the mobile base, it doesn't make sense to me (to put it there, under
the base of the saw), but it fits. Can you tell me what it's for? I'm
guessing maybe it fits inside the saw to facilitate dust collection
somehow. I haven't done my own "due diligence" regarding these covers
so I apologize for that in advance. Maybe it goes "upside down" in the
bottom on the saw (sorry, I haven't already tried)?

I took another look at the OEM splitter. It appears to sit quite a bit
further back from the blade than the Biesmeyer (78-961) would. If I
understand correctly, one doesn't get the choice of using any blade
guard with the 78-961 splitter.

Swingman wrote in
:

Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of
the saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade,
decreases your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by
about 50%.

Not much, but I'll take what I can get.


A large mesh screen could be put over the dust collection port to keep
the nut and washer from going down into the hose. A 1/2" or 3/4" mesh
would catch the nut and washer while allowing most sawdust to pass
through freely.

It's probably more trouble than it's worth, especially since the dropped
part usually winds up in the hose but I'm willing to sell prototypes to
anyone with excess cash.

A rare earth magnet or two outside the dust port might work better...

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Friday, November 29, 2013 8:24:41 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.

Paint the nut and washer neon yellow?

Sonny

"Bill" wrote:

I took another look at the OEM splitter. It appears to sit quite a
bit further back from the blade than the Biesmeyer (78-961) would.
If I understand correctly, one doesn't get the choice of using any
blade guard with the 78-961 splitter.
----------------------------------------------------------
The OEM supplied splitter/blade guard/anti-kick-back supplied by Delta
almost begs you not to use it.

It reminds me of a horse as designed by a committee, a CAMEL.

I finally got rid of the clear plastic blade guard and got some usage
as a splitter/anti-kick-back device.

Lew