So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that you love
that new saw more than her?

--

-Mike-

On 11/29/2013 1:04 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today?


Is your wife telling you that you love
that new saw more than her?

+1

--
Jeff

Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that you love
that new saw more than her?

It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. I have plans to move the
saw into its rightful stand, into its appropriate place (not sure if I
should try that by myself) and install an appropriate outlet soon. In
the meantime, I had to settle for turkey and dressing, Canasta, apple
cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage
before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure the saw
was okay...

Bill

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that
you love that new saw more than her?

It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. I have plans to move the
saw into its rightful stand, into its appropriate place (not sure if I
should try that by myself) and install an appropriate outlet soon. In
the meantime, I had to settle for turkey and dressing, Canasta, apple
cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the
garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
the saw was okay...


Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today?

It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. Admittedly I did look into the
garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
the saw was okay...

Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.

Thanks Mike, please send money! No saw without a Christmas??? : )

Bill

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 15:08:29 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today?

It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. Admittedly I did look into the
garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
the saw was okay...

Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.

Thanks Mike, please send money! No saw without a Christmas??? : )

You're going to need the money for Christmas. You have to at least
balance the saw!

On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
times today just to make sure the saw was okay...

Glad you didn't tuck it in...

I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
Works great, 5 minutes of work.
Has never caused a problem for me.
Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.

See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.


--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
times today just to make sure the saw was okay...

Glad you didn't tuck it in...

I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
Works great, 5 minutes of work.
Has never caused a problem for me.
Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.

See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.


How is that splitter (fundamentally) different than this one that came
with the saw, except that its attached to the blade guard? Maybe you
are not aware that I have it now? Please see the bottom of the page at
the following link:

http://web.newsguy.com//MySite/Splitter.pdf

On 11/29/2013 11:53 AM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
times today just to make sure the saw was okay...

Glad you didn't tuck it in...

I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
Works great, 5 minutes of work.
Has never caused a problem for me.
Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.

See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.


How is that splitter (fundamentally) different than this one that came
with the saw, except that its attached to the blade guard? Maybe you
are not aware that I have it now? Please see the bottom of the page at
the following link:

http://web.newsguy.com//MySite/Splitter.pdf
Because you will want an outfeed table. It makes it much easier and
safer to work rather than having the wood you are cutting tip toward the
floor and you reaching over the blade.

With an outfeed table you don't want the back support. It requires you
to remove too much of the table to tilt your blade. Just remove the rear
support rod.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
sort I need to use!

Thanks,
Bill

Bill wrote in
:

Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade? Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for
practice anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away
from the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches
for this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this
is the sort I need to use!

Thanks,
Bill

Didn't the saw come with the appropriate wrenches? On the two saws I've
had, the wrenches were long enough to keep my hands safely away from the
teeth during tightening and loosening operations.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 11/29/2013 1:28 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade? Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for
practice anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away
from the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches
for this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this
is the sort I need to use!

Thanks,
Bill

Didn't the saw come with the appropriate wrenches? On the two saws I've
had, the wrenches were long enough to keep my hands safely away from the
teeth during tightening and loosening operations.

Puckdropper



Typically and of that era the saws came with an arbor nut wrench. It is
best to also use an arbor wrench. My old Jet cabinet saw did not come
with 2 wrenches I had to order the extra, my SawStop came with 2 wrenches.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the blade.
.....

You only need one wrench for the Unisaw, and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade. (I also use a dampener.) You just need to snug it and the rotation will spin the nut sufficiently tight.

I'd recommend this - it's a combined nut and flange to hold the blade. It's made my life a lot easier. It allows me to change blades in a matter of seconds, so I rarely use a combination blade. Here's a site that's selling this, and I have no interest blah, blah ...

http://www.tylertool.com/delta-36-20...32-288241267-2

On 11/29/2013 1:54 PM, wrote:

You only need one wrench for the Unisaw,

My UniSaw uses two, one for the "arbor w/flange", and one for the "jam
nut" on the outside of the blade and "flange", and came with both:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink


and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade.

True, the direction of the rotation of the blade, after the arbor nut is
snugged, insures the nut will not loosen.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 11:54:29 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the blade.
....

You only need one wrench for the Unisaw, and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade. (I also use a dampener.) You just need to snug it and the rotation will spin the nut sufficiently tight.

Unisaws use two. One for the arbor and one for the nut.

I'd recommend this - it's a combined nut and flange to hold the blade. It's made my life a lot easier. It allows me to change blades in a matter of seconds, so I rarely use a combination blade. Here's a site that's selling this, and I have no interest blah, blah ...

http://www.tylertool.com/delta-36-20...32-288241267-2

On 11/29/2013 12:09 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
sort I need to use!

Thanks,
Bill
Until you become familiar your feed rate is a learning process too slow
you burn the blade.

Don't feed correctly you can bend the plate during a kick back.

Trust me until you are moderately familiar there are stupid things that
can be done... But a reasonable blade on it, then upgrade it after
making some sawdust. just my opinion, a soft recommendation.

BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.



--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 11/29/2013 12:09 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

Until you become familiar your feed rate is a learning process too
slow you burn the blade.

I knew you could burn the wood. I didn't think about "burning" the blade.

Don't feed correctly you can bend the plate during a kick back.

Well, we are NOT going to have any kick back!

Trust me until you are moderately familiar there are stupid things
that can be done...
I don't doubt you for a second.

But a reasonable blade on it, then upgrade it after making some
sawdust. just my opinion, a soft recommendation.
Ask Lew, I'm not the sort that has lots of extra hundred dollar bills to
toss around! The saw came with a sharp blade on it, and with no wrench!
The best way to proceed seems evident. : )

Bill


BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 12:09:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

woodchucker wrote:

Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.

Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.


Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.

I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
sort I need to use!

The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches. One is open-ended
to slips behind the blade to capture the arbor and the other is
box-end wrench used for the nut. Both are stamped steel and fit in a
slot in the motor cover.

You can also get one of these. I find it's too much trouble, but you
may find otherwise. http://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-blade-loc

BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
cards.

wrote:

BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
cards.

Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.

Not much, but I'll take what I can get.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Friday, November 29, 2013 6:45:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches.

Bill bought the used saw at an auction. The Unifence was initially on the shaper (table), the shaper's mobile base was under the Unisaw, the saw's mobile base was on top the saw/side table. Seems some parts for the different tools were scattered about the auction site. The saw's wrenchs and miter guage were not with the saw and no telling where the auction folks misplaced them, if they were ever there in the first place.

Bill, I'd take a peek inside the cabinet, to see if the wrenches have been stashed inside, there, among the sawdust.

Sonny

"Bill" wrote in message ...

cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage

I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit... I put
one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that replaced it.
The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages you to actually
use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.

John

John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message ...

cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage

I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit...
I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that
replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages
you to actually use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.

John
Thanks for the review of the product as well as the retailer!

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

John Grossbohlin wrote:

I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit...
I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that
replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages
you to actually use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.


Thanks for the review of the product as well as the retailer!

I'll post some photos to abpw so you can see how it looked mounted.

John

John Grossbohlin wrote:

I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM
unit... I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet
cabinet saw that replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the
ease of use encourages you to actually use it! BTW, I got them
both from Mike's.

I'll post some photos to abpw so you can see how it looked mounted.
---------------------------------------------------------
That's the beast.

As John said, "You actually use it".

Lew