Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my shop and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home. This means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the TS (soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the prep work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan for dust collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the other crap that gets in the way of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)

Gramp's shop wrote:
Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my shop and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home. This means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the TS (soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the prep work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan for dust collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the other crap that gets in the way of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)

Retirement is great when you have something you like to do to keep you
occupied. People ask me how it is to be retired. I tell them if I
had know how great it is I would have retired when I was 20.

Have fun in the shop. Half the fun is getting it set up like you want.

--
 GW Ross 

 When I was a kid, I was an imaginary 
 playmate. 

Gramp's shop wrote:
Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my
shop and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home.
This means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the
TS (soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the
prep work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan
for dust collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the
other crap that gets in the way of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)

Suggestion: Put the power outlets on the ceiling.

On 3/16/2013 2:05 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my shop and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home. This means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the TS (soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the prep work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan for dust collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the other crap that gets in the way of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)



Might I suggest putting every thing on a mobile base. I operated out of
a 2 car garage for 30 years and when more equipment that ended up on
mobile bases the more functional the shop became. I am now in a 3 car
garage and believe even more strongly in mobile bases.

I often erect a 4'x 8' break down work surface. a permanently placed
table saw would cramp working quarters. STILL there is no "best place"
for the table depending on the type cut.

On 03/16/2013 07:13 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/16/2013 2:05 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my shop
and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home. This
means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the TS
(soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the prep
work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan for dust
collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the other
crap that gets in the way of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)



Might I suggest putting every thing on a mobile base. I operated out of
a 2 car garage for 30 years and when more equipment that ended up on
mobile bases the more functional the shop became. I am now in a 3 car
garage and believe even more strongly in mobile bases.

I often erect a 4'x 8' break down work surface. a permanently placed
table saw would cramp working quarters. STILL there is no "best place"
for the table depending on the type cut.

Leon,

Do use a 4' x 8' web of 1xfours or 2xfours or a panel covered with
styrofoam?



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

"HeyBub" wrote in news:ZNGdndCgDsNN-
:


Suggestion: Put the power outlets on the ceiling.


I've got an extension cord that hangs down over my bench. It is extremely
convenient and gets used often. I mounted it at about wrist height, with
my hand fully extended, so it's easy to grab but tall enough to stay out of
the way if I ever move the bench.

I've been thinking about dropping a post in the middle of the table
saw/jointer/planer area to eliminate the power cord there. It'll also give
me a place to run a dust collection pipe.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 3/16/2013 9:35 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 03/16/2013 07:13 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/16/2013 2:05 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my shop
and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home. This
means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the TS
(soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the prep
work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan for dust
collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the other
crap that gets in the way of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)



Might I suggest putting every thing on a mobile base. I operated out of
a 2 car garage for 30 years and when more equipment that ended up on
mobile bases the more functional the shop became. I am now in a 3 car
garage and believe even more strongly in mobile bases.

I often erect a 4'x 8' break down work surface. a permanently placed
table saw would cramp working quarters. STILL there is no "best place"
for the table depending on the type cut.

Leon,

Do use a 4' x 8' web of 1xfours or 2xfours or a panel covered with
styrofoam?




Actually I have a couple of the light weight plastic saw horses that I
have had for several years. I have 2, 8' 2x4' running over them with
notches to lock on top of the saw horses. Then 4, 3.5' 2x4s evenly
spaced and half lapped with the long 2x4s. Shockingly sturdy, I have
had in excess of 8 sheets of plywood/MDF on top.

Normally I have a couple of half sheets of 3/4" plywood on top of the
2x4s to serve as a work surface. 2 halves are easier to move around. I
typically set this up in about 2~3 minutes.

When bringing new sheet goods into the shop I will leave the half sheets
of ply wood off and stack the new plywood directly out of the truck on
to the 2x4 grid. Last sheet gets a sheet of insulating styrofoam below
it. ;~) I then cut the sheets into manageable sizes and or finished
sizes. Using my Woodpeckers Deluxe 4' Story Stick I get very accurate
cuts with the track saw. Last sheet gets cut directly on top of the 2x4s.

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench however this crude
looking set up seems to fill the bill and does not take up much space
when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench
however this crude looking set up seems to fill the bill
and does not take up much space when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/


You probably can't afford a nice workbench after buying all of
those parallel clamps at ~$40 each... ;o)

Larry

Might I suggest putting every thing on a mobile base. I operated out of

a 2 car garage for 30 years and when more equipment that ended up on

mobile bases the more functional the shop became. I am now in a 3 car

garage and believe even more strongly in mobile bases.



I often erect a 4'x 8' break down work surface. a permanently placed

table saw would cramp working quarters. STILL there is no "best place"

for the table depending on the type cut.



Leon,


TS, BS, jointer and planer all on mobile bases now, Leon. The other day, you posted a link to the outfeed table you use. Any idea of approximate pricing? The site keeps it a secret.

Larry (47 days and counting)

Puckdropper wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in news:ZNGdndCgDsNN-
:


Suggestion: Put the power outlets on the ceiling.


I've got an extension cord that hangs down over my bench. It is
extremely convenient and gets used often. I mounted it at about
wrist height, with my hand fully extended, so it's easy to grab but
tall enough to stay out of the way if I ever move the bench.

I've been thinking about dropping a post in the middle of the table
saw/jointer/planer area to eliminate the power cord there. It'll
also give me a place to run a dust collection pipe.


I first saw the idea - power from ceiling outlets - in a large room full of
offset printing presses. The power cord for each press went straight up to
an outlet in the ceiling (with a clamp so the plug wouldn't fall out).
Twenty or so printing presses all humming along without the necessity of
bumps in the floor for conduit or digging up the concrete.

Worked swell.

On 3/16/2013 10:13 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/16/2013 2:05 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my shop
and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home. This
means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the TS
(soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the prep
work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan for dust
collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the other
crap that gets in the way of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)



Might I suggest putting every thing on a mobile base. I operated out of
a 2 car garage for 30 years and when more equipment that ended up on
mobile bases the more functional the shop became. I am now in a 3 car
garage and believe even more strongly in mobile bases.

I often erect a 4'x 8' break down work surface. a permanently placed
table saw would cramp working quarters. STILL there is no "best place"
for the table depending on the type cut.

I second the idea of mobile work areas. I learned of the idea when I was
working in instrument area in the Chemistry lab.

With everything mobile you can arrange the work area to fit the project.
If you are cutting stringers for the boat you are working on you can
move the T-saw next to the boat. If you are rip sawing and need an out
feed table, move the work bench into place for he out feed table. If
you are cutting many pieces, you can arrange the workbench as a staging
table for the saw. The combinations are limitless and will save many
steps in the shop.

On 3/16/2013 11:55 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in news:ZNGdndCgDsNN-
:


Suggestion: Put the power outlets on the ceiling.

I first saw the idea - power from ceiling outlets - in a large room full of
offset printing presses. The power cord for each press went straight up to
an outlet in the ceiling (with a clamp so the plug wouldn't fall out).
Twenty or so printing presses all humming along without the necessity of
bumps in the floor for conduit or digging up the concrete.

Worked swell.

But then, they weren't moving 4'x8' sheets of ply, 6' lengths of 1x,
etc. across the top of the presses. The ceiling drop cord is find for
just about any tool other than the TS

On Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:22:44 AM UTC-6, Puckdropper wrote:
"HeyBub" Suggestion: Put the power outlets on the ceiling.

I've got an extension cord that hangs down over my bench.

I have a drop-down cord over the 4'X6' outfeed table, that's shared by 2 TSs (90 degrees to one another). Very handy when doing tasks that stretch across the whole span - outfeed table plus the Ts's side tables make for a 6'X8' area.

I've been thinking about dropping a post in the middle of the table saw/jointer/planer area to eliminate the power cord there. It'll also give me a place to run a dust collection pipe. Puckdropper

I have 2 tree trunk posts (supporting a beam that supports the open ceiling joists/roof, i.e., I removed the walls inside the (old house) shop). Each post has outlets (easier to reach than on the ceiling, if need be) and pegs/nails for hanging handy tools - miter guages, push sticks, a few clamps (specific for the drill press area).

Since I'm still remodeling the house into a shop, the posts will likely be moved, for accommodating relocating the TSs and/or work bench, later. I thought this moving and relocating might happen, so I played out some extra wiring, to and above the posts, to accommodate any future redecorating. *One of these posts is inconvenient for one of my saws.

Your drop down post(s) may not be for ceiling support, but consider giving yourself some extra wiring and/or other "utilities", up above, in case you want to move/adjust the post(s), later.

Sonny

Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/16/2013 11:55 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in news:ZNGdndCgDsNN-
:


Suggestion: Put the power outlets on the ceiling.

I first saw the idea - power from ceiling outlets - in a large room
full of offset printing presses. The power cord for each press went
straight up to an outlet in the ceiling (with a clamp so the plug
wouldn't fall out). Twenty or so printing presses all humming along
without the necessity of bumps in the floor for conduit or digging
up the concrete. Worked swell.

But then, they weren't moving 4'x8' sheets of ply, 6' lengths of 1x,
etc. across the top of the presses. The ceiling drop cord is find for
just about any tool other than the TS

Not necessarily true. Just run the cord up to the ceiling out of the way of
the path of the wood.

--

-Mike-

HeyBub wrote:
Gramp's shop wrote:
Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my
shop and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home.
This means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the
TS (soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the
prep work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan
for dust collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the
other crap that gets in the way of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)

Suggestion: Put the power outlets on the ceiling.

Good suggestion. I have a couple of ceiling drops in my shop in the central
area where I have TS, joiner, dust collector, drum sander and router table.
Wall outlets around the perimeter too. I find the ceiling drops very handy,
best not located directly over a machine though.

I first started hanging power from the overhead in about 1963. I had a
photo studio, lights on stands with casters. Cords and casters don't mix
well so I strung aircraft cable end wall to end wall, three strands per
side, tensioned with turnbuckles (damn near pulled down the frame wall, the
other was concrete block). I used power cable the length of the room,
formed it into loops and hung it from the cables with metal rings, one per
loop and tying the power cords to the rings. Each power line was plugged
into a wall outlet, other end hung maybe 60" in the air. I could move
anyone most anywhere and hook a light to it, loops straighten out when
moved.. When not in use, they could just be shoved back to the end wall.
Worked well, ceiling was 12+'.

I intend to do something similar in my shop but will use a lazy "C" shape
curtain track attached to the ceiling and plastic slugs that fit it. What I
need is some coil cord that I can use as ends for the power cables. Coil
cord because the shop ceiling is lower, want to keep the power cord ends as
high as possible but still be able to reach them. I can find coil cord but
w/o a ground, want the ground. Someday...
--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Gramp's shop" wrote in message
...

Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my shop and
will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home. This means a
fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the TS (soon to be
equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the prep work first --
power distribution and lighting and a good plan for dust collection. Want
to minimize wires on the floor and all the other crap that gets in the way
of my feet.

Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)




Good luck. I retired in 1985 and still don't have enough time to do
everything I want to. WW

.. What I
need is some coil cord that I can use as ends for the power cables. Coil
cord because the shop ceiling is lower, want to keep the power cord ends
as high as possible but still be able to reach them. I can find coil cord
but w/o a ground, want the ground. Someday...

Look for a "camping" or other retractable clothesline reel. Hang it from
your track, add a clamp to hold the receptacle or plug on the end of the
retractable reel. A stick with a hook eye will be handy for pulling it down
from a fully retracted position. Extra loops midway around the cord to the
line will keep it "flaked up high out of the way while retracted.
--
Jim in NC

On 3/16/2013 11:04 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:




Might I suggest putting every thing on a mobile base. I operated out of

a 2 car garage for 30 years and when more equipment that ended up on

mobile bases the more functional the shop became. I am now in a 3 car

garage and believe even more strongly in mobile bases.



I often erect a 4'x 8' break down work surface. a permanently placed

table saw would cramp working quarters. STILL there is no "best place"

for the table depending on the type cut.



Leon,


TS, BS, jointer and planer all on mobile bases now, Leon. The other day, you posted a link to the outfeed table you use. Any idea of approximate pricing? The site keeps it a secret.

Larry (47 days and counting)



If you are talking about the 15 roller out feed I bought mine in 2000
for $200. Now about $329 and WORTH EVERY PENNEY.

http://www.htcproductsinc.com/downlo...talog_2006.pdf

FWIW this looks like a new catalog I could have sworn that a week ago
the out feed was $475.

Cheaper here

http://www.7corners.com/catalog/inde...ducts_id=45970


BTY the extension comes out from the saw far enough that the longer half
of a ripped 8' board or sheet of plywood is still on the outfeed and
saw. Read that as long enough that you don't have to balance the work
after making the cut providing it is 8' or shorter.

ALSO the older units, like mine had a fixed lower support that falls
right where the dust port is at on a SawStop TS. It appears that the
newer styles have a lower support that is no longer fixed at the bottom.
It appears to be adjustable to a different height depending on obstacles.

On 3/16/2013 7:57 PM, Leon wrote:
Cheaper here

http://www.7corners.com/catalog/inde...ducts_id=45970



BTY the extension comes out from the saw far enough that the longer half
of a ripped 8' board or sheet of plywood is still on the outfeed and
saw. Read that as long enough that you don't have to balance the work
after making the cut providing it is 8' or shorter.

ALSO the older units, like mine had a fixed lower support that falls
right where the dust port is at on a SawStop TS. It appears that the
newer styles have a lower support that is no longer fixed at the bottom.
It appears to be adjustable to a different height depending on obstacles.
Any chance that it is available as a retrofit to yours, sounds like just
an arm and bottom support.

--
Jeff

On 3/16/2013 7:28 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/16/2013 7:57 PM, Leon wrote:
Cheaper here

http://www.7corners.com/catalog/inde...ducts_id=45970




BTY the extension comes out from the saw far enough that the longer half
of a ripped 8' board or sheet of plywood is still on the outfeed and
saw. Read that as long enough that you don't have to balance the work
after making the cut providing it is 8' or shorter.

ALSO the older units, like mine had a fixed lower support that falls
right where the dust port is at on a SawStop TS. It appears that the
newer styles have a lower support that is no longer fixed at the bottom.
It appears to be adjustable to a different height depending on
obstacles.
Any chance that it is available as a retrofit to yours, sounds like just
an arm and bottom support.



I was looking at the "current" "design as you go" style owners manual.
It shows pictures of my style and obviously newer pictures of perhaps a
retrofit where the entire mount might be replaceable. Ill be callint
them in the next couple of days.

On 3/16/2013 5:51 PM, Morgans wrote:

. What I
need is some coil cord that I can use as ends for the power cables.
Coil cord because the shop ceiling is lower, want to keep the power
cord ends as high as possible but still be able to reach them. I can
find coil cord but w/o a ground, want the ground. Someday...

Look for a "camping" or other retractable clothesline reel. Hang it
from your track, add a clamp to hold the receptacle or plug on the end
of the retractable reel. A stick with a hook eye will be handy for
pulling it down from a fully retracted position. Extra loops midway
around the cord to the line will keep it "flaked up high out of the way
while retracted.

You may wish to consider the spiral cords like they use to put on
telephones. (You do remember telephones, don't you)

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message ...


You may wish to consider the spiral cords like they use to put on
telephones. (You do remember telephones, don't you)

Funny... I just replaced the corded phone in my shop today.... The handset
was cracked and the cord wouldn't stay connected properly. Corded phones are
a self defense move... There are four corded phones in the house so they
cannot walk off like the cordless handsets perpetually do !

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 3/16/2013 7:28 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/16/2013 7:57 PM, Leon wrote:
Cheaper here

http://www.7corners.com/catalog/inde...ducts_id=45970




BTY the extension comes out from the saw far enough that the longer half
of a ripped 8' board or sheet of plywood is still on the outfeed and
saw. Read that as long enough that you don't have to balance the work
after making the cut providing it is 8' or shorter.

ALSO the older units, like mine had a fixed lower support that falls
right where the dust port is at on a SawStop TS. It appears that the
newer styles have a lower support that is no longer fixed at the bottom.
It appears to be adjustable to a different height depending on
obstacles.
Any chance that it is available as a retrofit to yours, sounds like just
an arm and bottom support.



I was looking at the "current" "design as you go" style owners manual. It
shows pictures of my style and obviously newer pictures of perhaps a
retrofit where the entire mount might be replaceable. Ill be callint them
in the next couple of days.

Or just buy a new one. With the major coin you are going to pay for a new
table saw, if a new roller extension would fit, just buy it. You can always
tack on a little to the price of the old saw. It is a good saw and somebody
will appreciate it.

When talking to them see if anybody has mounted this item on a SawStop and
see what they have to say.

On 3/16/2013 9:39 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 3/16/2013 7:28 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/16/2013 7:57 PM, Leon wrote:
Cheaper here

http://www.7corners.com/catalog/inde...ducts_id=45970





BTY the extension comes out from the saw far enough that the longer
half
of a ripped 8' board or sheet of plywood is still on the outfeed and
saw. Read that as long enough that you don't have to balance the work
after making the cut providing it is 8' or shorter.

ALSO the older units, like mine had a fixed lower support that falls
right where the dust port is at on a SawStop TS. It appears that the
newer styles have a lower support that is no longer fixed at the
bottom.
It appears to be adjustable to a different height depending on
obstacles.
Any chance that it is available as a retrofit to yours, sounds like just
an arm and bottom support.



I was looking at the "current" "design as you go" style owners manual.
It shows pictures of my style and obviously newer pictures of perhaps
a retrofit where the entire mount might be replaceable. Ill be
callint them in the next couple of days.

Or just buy a new one. With the major coin you are going to pay for a
new table saw, if a new roller extension would fit, just buy it. You
can always tack on a little to the price of the old saw. It is a good
saw and somebody will appreciate it.

When talking to them see if anybody has mounted this item on a SawStop
and see what they have to say.

I have considered leaving it on the saw, make it a nice package deal
with the mobile base too.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 3/16/2013 5:51 PM, Morgans wrote:

. What I
need is some coil cord that I can use as ends for the power cables.
Coil cord because the shop ceiling is lower, want to keep the power
cord ends as high as possible but still be able to reach them. I
can find coil cord but w/o a ground, want the ground. Someday...

Look for a "camping" or other retractable clothesline reel. Hang it
from your track, add a clamp to hold the receptacle or plug on the
end of the retractable reel. A stick with a hook eye will be handy
for pulling it down from a fully retracted position. Extra loops
midway around the cord to the line will keep it "flaked up high out
of the way while retracted.

You may wish to consider the spiral cords like they use to put on
telephones. (You do remember telephones, don't you)

Yep. Saw a loft converstion to a 1 (large) room apartment. There was only
one electrical outlet in the room and it was centered on the ceiling. The
apartment owner created wall outlets by stringing about six bright-orange
curly extension cords from the one outlet to locations where power was
needed (fridge, TV, etc.). Looked wierd, but nice.

Larry wrote:

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench
however this crude looking set up seems to fill the bill
and does not take up much space when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/


You probably can't afford a nice workbench after buying all of
those parallel clamps at ~$40 each... ;o)

Larry

I got the Cabinet Master clamps for about $17 each so I loaded up.. This
was several years ago when the screw clamp end was made from aluminum.
Jorgensen switched to cast iron when the aluminum failed. With a lifetime
guarantee all 10 clamp ends were replaced for free. No problems sense.

On 3/17/2013 9:48 AM, Leon wrote:
Larry wrote:

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench
however this crude looking set up seems to fill the bill
and does not take up much space when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/


You probably can't afford a nice workbench after buying all of
those parallel clamps at ~$40 each... ;o)

Larry

I got the Cabinet Master clamps for about $17 each so I loaded up.. This
was several years ago when the screw clamp end was made from aluminum.
Jorgensen switched to cast iron when the aluminum failed. With a lifetime
guarantee all 10 clamp ends were replaced for free. No problems sense.


Me too from Woodcraft on a special. bought 4 of each size.
Mine have not failed, didn't know the reason for the black ones?
What caused the aluminum to fail?
Did yours fail or you were just pre-emptive?


--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 3/17/2013 9:48 AM, Leon wrote:
Larry wrote:

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench
however this crude looking set up seems to fill the bill
and does not take up much space when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/


You probably can't afford a nice workbench after buying all of
those parallel clamps at ~$40 each... ;o)

Larry

I got the Cabinet Master clamps for about $17 each so I loaded up.. This
was several years ago when the screw clamp end was made from aluminum.
Jorgensen switched to cast iron when the aluminum failed. With a lifetime
guarantee all 10 clamp ends were replaced for free. No problems sense.


Me too from Woodcraft on a special. bought 4 of each size.
Mine have not failed, didn't know the reason for the black ones?
What caused the aluminum to fail?
Did yours fail or you were just pre-emptive?



They were failing on one at a time and they replaced them one by one for
the first three. Next two failed and they asked how many more aluminum ones
that I had and they decided to replace the rest and be done with it.

They replaced 2 iron ones because of a gritty feel when you tightened the
clamp down. I later discovered that a drop of oil internally where the
swivel pad is attached to the screw makes them work like new again.

On 3/17/2013 1:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/17/2013 9:48 AM, Leon wrote:
Larry wrote:

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench
however this crude looking set up seems to fill the bill
and does not take up much space when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/


You probably can't afford a nice workbench after buying all of
those parallel clamps at ~$40 each... ;o)

Larry

I got the Cabinet Master clamps for about $17 each so I loaded up.. This
was several years ago when the screw clamp end was made from aluminum.
Jorgensen switched to cast iron when the aluminum failed. With a
lifetime
guarantee all 10 clamp ends were replaced for free. No problems sense.


Me too from Woodcraft on a special. bought 4 of each size.
Mine have not failed, didn't know the reason for the black ones?
What caused the aluminum to fail?
Did yours fail or you were just pre-emptive?



To answer your other questions. The ones that failed were not painted.
If yours are painted they are probably cast iron and the latest
version, so to speak. It was explained to me that there were small
voids in the aluminum casting and that created weak spots.

On 3/17/2013 7:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2013 1:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/17/2013 9:48 AM, Leon wrote:
Larry wrote:

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench
however this crude looking set up seems to fill the bill
and does not take up much space when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/


You probably can't afford a nice workbench after buying all of
those parallel clamps at ~$40 each... ;o)

Larry

I got the Cabinet Master clamps for about $17 each so I loaded up.. This
was several years ago when the screw clamp end was made from aluminum.
Jorgensen switched to cast iron when the aluminum failed. With a
lifetime
guarantee all 10 clamp ends were replaced for free. No problems sense.


Me too from Woodcraft on a special. bought 4 of each size.
Mine have not failed, didn't know the reason for the black ones?
What caused the aluminum to fail?
Did yours fail or you were just pre-emptive?



To answer your other questions. The ones that failed were not painted.
If yours are painted they are probably cast iron and the latest
version, so to speak. It was explained to me that there were small
voids in the aluminum casting and that created weak spots.
No, mine are just silver. That explains it. I assume the cast iron
needed the pad I see that mine don't have.

I like the clamps, they are heavy, but they are nice. BTW that htc link
showed me another way to mount my clamps.. upside down. Damn
That actually works well , I just freed one side of my rack by having
them flip up and down. I can now bring in many more of my other clamps.
I'll have to see how this works out. MAN can NEVER HAVE TOO MANY CLAMPS.


--
Jeff

On Saturday, March 16, 2013 12:05:48 AM UTC-7, Gramp's shop wrote:
Finally convinced my wife that I deserve the double garage for my shop and will soon be moving out of the single stall I now call home. This means a fixed location for most of my machinery, especially the TS (soon to be equipped with a fixed outfeed table). Need to do the prep work first -- power distribution and lighting and a good plan for dust collection. Want to minimize wires on the floor and all the other crap that gets in the way of my feet.



Larry (48 days to retirement, but who's counting?)

Give it a few months. It will be too small pretty soon. Problems always expand into the space given them.

Leon wrote in

..com:

Larry wrote:

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench
however this crude looking set up seems to fill the bill
and does not take up much space when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/


You probably can't afford a nice workbench after buying
all of those parallel clamps at ~$40 each... ;o)

Larry

I got the Cabinet Master clamps for about $17 each so I
loaded up.. This was several years ago when the screw clamp
end was made from aluminum. Jorgensen switched to cast iron
when the aluminum failed. With a lifetime guarantee all 10
clamp ends were replaced for free. No problems sense.

Damn, I wish mine had only cost $17. It appears I was too late
to the party and they hit me up for ~$36 each if I remember
right.

Larry

woodchucker wrote:
On 3/17/2013 7:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2013 1:15 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/17/2013 9:48 AM, Leon wrote:
Larry wrote:

As a side note I have always wanted a nice work bench
however this crude looking set up seems to fill the bill
and does not take up much space when knocked down.

You can kinda sorta see it here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8536729515/


You probably can't afford a nice workbench after buying all of
those parallel clamps at ~$40 each... ;o)

Larry

I got the Cabinet Master clamps for about $17 each so I loaded up.. This
was several years ago when the screw clamp end was made from aluminum.
Jorgensen switched to cast iron when the aluminum failed. With a
lifetime
guarantee all 10 clamp ends were replaced for free. No problems sense.


Me too from Woodcraft on a special. bought 4 of each size.
Mine have not failed, didn't know the reason for the black ones?
What caused the aluminum to fail?
Did yours fail or you were just pre-emptive?



To answer your other questions. The ones that failed were not painted.
If yours are painted they are probably cast iron and the latest
version, so to speak. It was explained to me that there were small
voids in the aluminum casting and that created weak spots.
No, mine are just silver. That explains it. I assume the cast iron needed
the pad I see that mine don't have.

Pad?