Finally had an occasion to use my oscillating tool. Cutting 8"x16"
holes on the underside of my eaves to create ventilation. 36 total!
3/8 inch plywood boxed eaves. Considered skill saw, saber saw, roto-
zip and oscillating tool.
Note: This is all overhead work, approximately 8-11 feet off ground.

Skill saw: While I do own a portable model, I considered it to be too
dangerous to be used upside down and overhead. Also if I make a
template, I could use it only to trace with a pencil and not trace
with the saw. I'd probably end up cutting it to shreds in no time.

Saber saw: This would require starting holes in the corners or some
clever plunge cuts. Template could be made to compensate for the shoe
width. Tried this and found it to be heavy and difficult especially
when coming across a rafter. Depth of cut can not be adjusted other
than by cutting off part of the blade.

Roto-Zip: This tool worked nicely. Template has to be made larger
due to the with of the shoe (base). Very agressive, hard to control
overhead and LOTS of sawdust.

Multifunction: (MF) THIS WAS THE WINNER!!! Fairly light weight.
Template (Masonite hardboard) with inside cutout exactly 8"x16".
Plunge cut no problem. Used the half-moon "Wood & Drywall" cutter.
Easy to follow template. WILL NOT CUT INTO TEMPLATE, except at the
ends. Method used: Template tucked up against facia board. This
offsets the cut-out 4 inches from the board. Template screwed to eave
facing with two diagonally placed drywall screws. These screw holes
match the holes in the new grill covers. MF tool traces lightly
around the cutout simply scoring at about 1/4 depth of th plywood. MF
tool stops about 1/2 inch short of the corners. Template is removed.
MF tool finishes the cuts at full depth and out to the corners. Grill
is screwed onto the hole (6 screws total) with two of the screws
falling into the existing holes used in the template. Instead of
working from a ladder, I welded a removable hand-rail unto my Kubota
tractor and stood in the bucket with all the tools. Simply drive from
location to location and adjusted the height accordingly.

TOOL PERFORMANCE: Loud, but performed very well. I did 14 holes by
the time the blade wore out. Not bad, considering that it's 48 inches
of cut per hole, for a total of 672 inches, or 56 feet. This would be
equivalent to undercutting about 100± door jambs!! Extremely safe.

QUESTION: The teeth on the cutter don't have any 'set'. Would this
work better with 'set' teeth? Is 'set' simply to allow saw dust to
get out of the way? Of course, having no 'set' is probably the reason
that the tool does not 'grab' and cut into the template as you slide
it along.

Ivan Vegvary

On Nov 7, 8:17*am, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Finally had an occasion to use my oscillating tool. *Cutting 8"x16"
holes on the underside of my eaves to create ventilation. *36 total!
3/8 inch plywood boxed eaves. *Considered skill saw, saber saw, roto-
zip and oscillating tool.
Note: *This is all overhead work, approximately 8-11 feet off ground.

Skill saw: *While I do own a portable model, I considered it to be too
dangerous to be used upside down and overhead. *Also if I make a
template, I could use it only to trace with a pencil and not trace
with the saw. *I'd probably end up cutting it to shreds in no time.

Saber saw: *This would require starting holes in the corners or some
clever plunge cuts. *Template could be made to compensate for the shoe
width. *Tried this and found it to be heavy and difficult especially
when coming across a rafter. *Depth of cut can not be adjusted other
than by cutting off part of the blade.

Roto-Zip: *This tool worked nicely. *Template has to be made larger
due to the with of the shoe (base). *Very agressive, hard to control
overhead and LOTS of sawdust.

Multifunction: *(MF) THIS WAS THE WINNER!!! *Fairly light weight.
Template (Masonite hardboard) with inside cutout exactly 8"x16".
Plunge cut no problem. *Used the half-moon "Wood & Drywall" cutter.
Easy to follow template. *WILL NOT CUT INTO TEMPLATE, except at the
ends. *Method used: *Template tucked up against facia board. *This
offsets the cut-out 4 inches from the board. *Template screwed to eave
facing with two diagonally placed drywall screws. *These screw holes
match the holes in the new grill covers. *MF tool traces lightly
around the cutout simply scoring at about 1/4 depth of th plywood. *MF
tool stops about 1/2 inch short of the corners. *Template is removed.
MF tool finishes the cuts at full depth and out to the corners. *Grill
is screwed onto the hole (6 screws total) with two of the screws
falling into the existing holes used in the template. *Instead of
working from a ladder, I welded a removable hand-rail unto my Kubota
tractor and stood in the bucket with all the tools. *Simply drive from
location to location and adjusted the height accordingly.

TOOL PERFORMANCE: *Loud, but performed very well. *I did 14 holes by
the time the blade wore out. *Not bad, considering that it's 48 inches
of cut per hole, for a total of 672 inches, or 56 feet. *This would be
equivalent to undercutting about 100± door jambs!! *Extremely safe.

QUESTION: *The teeth on the cutter don't have any 'set'. *Would this
work better with 'set' teeth? *Is 'set' simply to allow saw dust to
get out of the way? *Of course, having no 'set' is probably the reason
that the tool does not 'grab' and cut into the template as you slide
it along.

Ivan Vegvary

Forgot the link. Sorry.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 08:17:42 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Finally had an occasion to use my oscillating tool. Cutting 8"x16"
holes on the underside of my eaves to create ventilation. 36 total!
3/8 inch plywood boxed eaves. Considered skill saw, saber saw, roto-
zip and oscillating tool.
Note: This is all overhead work, approximately 8-11 feet off ground.

Skill saw: While I do own a portable model, I considered it to be too
dangerous to be used upside down and overhead. Also if I make a
template, I could use it only to trace with a pencil and not trace
with the saw. I'd probably end up cutting it to shreds in no time.

They can be tough, but for demo work, they're fine. They're heavy and
buck way too much to be tame enough for following lines precisely.


Saber saw: This would require starting holes in the corners or some
clever plunge cuts. Template could be made to compensate for the shoe
width. Tried this and found it to be heavy and difficult especially
when coming across a rafter. Depth of cut can not be adjusted other
than by cutting off part of the blade.

Less fun when running over the stray rafter, huh?


Roto-Zip: This tool worked nicely. Template has to be made larger
due to the with of the shoe (base). Very agressive, hard to control
overhead and LOTS of sawdust.

Much wider kerfs are like that. Yeah they are.


Multifunction: (MF) THIS WAS THE WINNER!!! Fairly light weight.
Template (Masonite hardboard) with inside cutout exactly 8"x16".
Plunge cut no problem. Used the half-moon "Wood & Drywall" cutter.
Easy to follow template. WILL NOT CUT INTO TEMPLATE, except at the
ends. Method used: Template tucked up against facia board. This
offsets the cut-out 4 inches from the board. Template screwed to eave
facing with two diagonally placed drywall screws. These screw holes
match the holes in the new grill covers. MF tool traces lightly
around the cutout simply scoring at about 1/4 depth of th plywood. MF
tool stops about 1/2 inch short of the corners. Template is removed.
MF tool finishes the cuts at full depth and out to the corners. Grill
is screwed onto the hole (6 screws total) with two of the screws
falling into the existing holes used in the template. Instead of
working from a ladder, I welded a removable hand-rail unto my Kubota
tractor and stood in the bucket with all the tools. Simply drive from
location to location and adjusted the height accordingly.

TOOL PERFORMANCE: Loud, but performed very well. I did 14 holes by
the time the blade wore out. Not bad, considering that it's 48 inches
of cut per hole, for a total of 672 inches, or 56 feet. This would be
equivalent to undercutting about 100± door jambs!! Extremely safe.

I'm happy with the blade life, too. I (mostly) cut notches in PT
tubasixes for decking and railings.


QUESTION: The teeth on the cutter don't have any 'set'. Would this
work better with 'set' teeth? Is 'set' simply to allow saw dust to
get out of the way? Of course, having no 'set' is probably the reason
that the tool does not 'grab' and cut into the template as you slide
it along.

The lack of set has made me a bit ornery at times, too, but I learned
to blow the sawdust out as I cut. I keep forgetting to put a piece of
tubing in the truck for my next job, though. Hmm, this would work,
though. I'll put it out there right now. done

I talked a newb into buying the cheapie at HF the other day, when I
replaced a missing t-bevel (and, what else?) buy some more clamps.
I had a coupon for the 12" quick clamp/spreaders for $1.99.

MFTs RULE!

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck

On 11/7/10 11:54 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:

They can be tough, but for demo work, they're fine. They're heavy and
buck way too much to be tame enough for following lines precisely.


Buck? Really?
I haven't noticed that at all.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Nice example of a use for the tool. I wonder how many Fein owners would
feel comfortable taking their $300+ tool up a ladder to do the same?


--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
TOOL PERFORMANCE: Loud, but performed very well. I did 14 holes by
the time the blade wore out. Not bad, considering that it's 48 inches
of cut per hole, for a total of 672 inches, or 56 feet. This would be
equivalent to undercutting about 100± door jambs!! Extremely safe.

If it interests you, some people sharpen their blades. Apparently, a
sanding/cutoff wheel in a Dremel can be used to cut new teeth in the
multifunction tool blade. I've never heard of a set being put on the teeth
and doubt it's necessary as long as your blades aren't getting stuck. Just
ensure that new teeth are clean and flat.

Add your comment to the HF review website. http://hfreviews.com/ I do
not believe the site is owned by HF.

Mike in Ohio

On 11/07/2010 11:17 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Finally had an occasion to use my oscillating tool. Cutting 8"x16"
holes on the underside of my eaves to create ventilation. 36 total!
3/8 inch plywood boxed eaves. Considered skill saw, saber saw, roto-
zip and oscillating tool.
Note: This is all overhead work, approximately 8-11 feet off ground.

Skill saw: While I do own a portable model, I considered it to be too
dangerous to be used upside down and overhead. Also if I make a
template, I could use it only to trace with a pencil and not trace
with the saw. I'd probably end up cutting it to shreds in no time.

Saber saw: This would require starting holes in the corners or some
clever plunge cuts. Template could be made to compensate for the shoe
width. Tried this and found it to be heavy and difficult especially
when coming across a rafter. Depth of cut can not be adjusted other
than by cutting off part of the blade.

Roto-Zip: This tool worked nicely. Template has to be made larger
due to the with of the shoe (base). Very agressive, hard to control
overhead and LOTS of sawdust.

Multifunction: (MF) THIS WAS THE WINNER!!! Fairly light weight.
Template (Masonite hardboard) with inside cutout exactly 8"x16".
Plunge cut no problem. Used the half-moon "Wood& Drywall" cutter.
Easy to follow template. WILL NOT CUT INTO TEMPLATE, except at the
ends. Method used: Template tucked up against facia board. This
offsets the cut-out 4 inches from the board. Template screwed to eave
facing with two diagonally placed drywall screws. These screw holes
match the holes in the new grill covers. MF tool traces lightly
around the cutout simply scoring at about 1/4 depth of th plywood. MF
tool stops about 1/2 inch short of the corners. Template is removed.
MF tool finishes the cuts at full depth and out to the corners. Grill
is screwed onto the hole (6 screws total) with two of the screws
falling into the existing holes used in the template. Instead of
working from a ladder, I welded a removable hand-rail unto my Kubota
tractor and stood in the bucket with all the tools. Simply drive from
location to location and adjusted the height accordingly.

TOOL PERFORMANCE: Loud, but performed very well. I did 14 holes by
the time the blade wore out. Not bad, considering that it's 48 inches
of cut per hole, for a total of 672 inches, or 56 feet. This would be
equivalent to undercutting about 100± door jambs!! Extremely safe.

QUESTION: The teeth on the cutter don't have any 'set'. Would this
work better with 'set' teeth? Is 'set' simply to allow saw dust to
get out of the way? Of course, having no 'set' is probably the reason
that the tool does not 'grab' and cut into the template as you slide
it along.

Ivan Vegvary

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote

Forgot the link. Sorry.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

I bought a Chicago Electric right angle grinder a few years ago. It ran for
about 40 seconds before the armature burned up.

Never again.
--
Jim in NC

In article ,
says...

On 11/7/10 11:54 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:

They can be tough, but for demo work, they're fine. They're heavy and
buck way too much to be tame enough for following lines precisely.


Buck? Really?
I haven't noticed that at all.

Perhaps he has the multifunction tools conflated with something else. I
notice that a _lot_ of people think that they are some variant of an
angle grinder.

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote

Forgot the link. Sorry.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

I bought a Chicago Electric right angle grinder a few years ago. It ran
for about 40 seconds before the armature burned up.

Never again.
--
Jim in NC


You didn't take it back? Usually the grinders last forever and at about $10
a pop are a terrific bargain. Also not that the Blade in the OP's MF tool
lasted 56 Feet. The blades are about $2, IIRC.

--
If your name is No, I voted for you - more than once ...

On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 15:14:54 -0500, "Morgans"
wrote:


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote

Forgot the link. Sorry.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

I bought a Chicago Electric right angle grinder a few years ago. It ran for
about 40 seconds before the armature burned up.

Never again.

You're one of the few. Most of us run them for years on end without a
hitch. Ten bucks well spent!

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Finally had an occasion to use my oscillating tool. Cutting 8"x16"
holes on the underside of my eaves to create ventilation. 36 total!
3/8 inch plywood boxed eaves. Considered skill saw, saber saw, roto-
zip and oscillating tool.
Note: This is all overhead work, approximately 8-11 feet off ground.

I had almost the exact same project except my holes for soffit vents were 8
inches by four feet. I tried several of the same tools you did.

What finally worked best for me was a branch-trimming chain saw!

Oh the edges of the resulting hole were not, er, "neat," but they were being
covered by a home-made screen, so the irregularities did not show.

And, as another responder said, you CAN "sharpen" a worn-out blade by using
a rotary Dremel to cut as many 1/8" slots in the blade as you can muster.

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
Sounds more like You are the problem. I used to be that way with watches,

Used to? I've got three watches that all have to be sent in for repair.
Almost $600 spent on these POS and they keep breaking down on me inside the
first year of warranty. I'm not violent with any with with them, don't bang
them on anything and don't drop them. Yet, they keep breaking down on me.

Please, please tell me how you solved your watch problem? Do you still wear
watches?

On 11/7/2010 10:17 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Finally had an occasion to use my oscillating tool. Cutting 8"x16"
holes on the underside of my eaves to create ventilation. 36 total!
3/8 inch plywood boxed eaves. Considered skill saw, saber saw, roto-
zip and oscillating tool.
Note: This is all overhead work, approximately 8-11 feet off ground.

Skill saw: While I do own a portable model, I considered it to be too
dangerous to be used upside down and overhead. Also if I make a
template, I could use it only to trace with a pencil and not trace
with the saw. I'd probably end up cutting it to shreds in no time.

Saber saw: This would require starting holes in the corners or some
clever plunge cuts. Template could be made to compensate for the shoe
width. Tried this and found it to be heavy and difficult especially
when coming across a rafter. Depth of cut can not be adjusted other
than by cutting off part of the blade.

Roto-Zip: This tool worked nicely. Template has to be made larger
due to the with of the shoe (base). Very agressive, hard to control
overhead and LOTS of sawdust.

Multifunction: (MF) THIS WAS THE WINNER!!! Fairly light weight.
Template (Masonite hardboard) with inside cutout exactly 8"x16".
Plunge cut no problem. Used the half-moon "Wood& Drywall" cutter.
Easy to follow template. WILL NOT CUT INTO TEMPLATE, except at the
ends. Method used: Template tucked up against facia board. This
offsets the cut-out 4 inches from the board. Template screwed to eave
facing with two diagonally placed drywall screws. These screw holes
match the holes in the new grill covers. MF tool traces lightly
around the cutout simply scoring at about 1/4 depth of th plywood. MF
tool stops about 1/2 inch short of the corners. Template is removed.
MF tool finishes the cuts at full depth and out to the corners. Grill
is screwed onto the hole (6 screws total) with two of the screws
falling into the existing holes used in the template. Instead of
working from a ladder, I welded a removable hand-rail unto my Kubota
tractor and stood in the bucket with all the tools. Simply drive from
location to location and adjusted the height accordingly.

TOOL PERFORMANCE: Loud, but performed very well. I did 14 holes by
the time the blade wore out. Not bad, considering that it's 48 inches
of cut per hole, for a total of 672 inches, or 56 feet. This would be
equivalent to undercutting about 100± door jambs!! Extremely safe.

QUESTION: The teeth on the cutter don't have any 'set'. Would this
work better with 'set' teeth? Is 'set' simply to allow saw dust to
get out of the way? Of course, having no 'set' is probably the reason
that the tool does not 'grab' and cut into the template as you slide
it along.

Ivan Vegvary
I found another use for my MF yesterday. I replaced a strike plate
for a door latch. The new one was larger than the old one and I had
to enlarge the mortise to set it in, and the hole behind the catch
hole. The MF worked great, a few seconds each cut and there it was.

Bill

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Snip



QUESTION: The teeth on the cutter don't have any 'set'. Would this
work better with 'set' teeth? Is 'set' simply to allow saw dust to
get out of the way? Of course, having no 'set' is probably the reason
that the tool does not 'grab' and cut into the template as you slide
it along.

Ivan Vegvary


Very doubtful if it blade would work better with set in the teeth. Teeth
are often set to create a wider kerf so that the work does not pinch the
back side of the blade.

Because the tooth travel is greatly limited you need to still use the tool
as if using a hand saw to clear the dust out of the teeth. Fein instructed
me to work the tool back and forth as if slicing a loaf of bread. FWIW
there are blades that do have a set and that do work with these type tools,
I have found that they do not perform better as a rule and leave a jagged
cut.

You're one of the few. *Most of us run them for years on end without a
hitch. *Ten bucks well spent!

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Margaret Lee Runbeck

I now own 7 HF 4-1/2" grinders, plus one parts grinder. Do not put
them through heave use, BUT, it's sure nice not to have to change
wheels etc., and simply pick up the nest grinder. Mounted are
grinding wheels, cut-off wheels, wire brushes, masonry wheels, diamond
wheel etc.
Had them for over 8 years. Yes, they are noisy, but at the price I'll
simply wear ear protection.
Contractors like them because if they walk off the job the loss isn't
so great.

Ivan Vegvary

On Nov 7, 11:17*am, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Considered skill saw, saber saw, roto-zip and oscillating tool.


Ivan Vegvary

I used my router for this job - I guess akin to your roto-zip. I
tacked the template to the wood and routed out the opening nicely,
clean and with little difficulty (well, I was working upside down on a
ladder with a fear of heights).

I was only adding extra ventilation so only did ten or so openings.

Did you use the cheap model or the more expensive variable speed unit?

On Nov 7, 3:14*pm, "Morgans" wrote:
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote

Forgot the link. *Sorry.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

I bought a Chicago Electric right angle grinder a few years ago. *It ran for
about 40 seconds before the armature burned up.

Never again.
--
Jim in NC

I've had much better luck with mine. About five years before the
little half-moon spline thing broke and my neighbor mad me another -
back in business for another five years (of intermittent, of course)
use. If I was a metal worker/had a welding shop, I might not want to
rely upon HFTools. But,, then, I could charge the customers for the
added cost of a more dependable grinder, no?

On Mon, 8 Nov 2010 07:05:15 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

You're one of the few. *Most of us run them for years on end without a
hitch. *Ten bucks well spent!


I now own 7 HF 4-1/2" grinders, plus one parts grinder. Do not put
them through heave use, BUT, it's sure nice not to have to change
wheels etc., and simply pick up the nest grinder. Mounted are
grinding wheels, cut-off wheels, wire brushes, masonry wheels, diamond
wheel etc.
Had them for over 8 years. Yes, they are noisy, but at the price I'll
simply wear ear protection.
Contractors like them because if they walk off the job the loss isn't
so great.

And at that price, you have extras if one does die some day. You enjoy
a whole lot more convenience while you wait, too.

PLUS, your out-of-pocket expense is still under half of what the other
tools guys want you to buy.

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
Sounds more like You are the problem. I used to be that way with watches,

Used to? I've got three watches that all have to be sent in for repair.
Almost $600 spent on these POS and they keep breaking down on me inside
the first year of warranty. I'm not violent with any with with them, don't
bang them on anything and don't drop them. Yet, they keep breaking down on
me.

Please, please tell me how you solved your watch problem? Do you still
wear watches?


Have not worn a watch for ten years. When I absolutely need one now, I use a
pocket watch. My problems were almost exclusively with analog wrist watches.
Bought a top of the line Timex in the PX at Lackland AFB just before I left
for my next duty station in 1961. It died - forever - on the plane between
San Antonio and Kansas City!

--
If your name is No, I voted for you - more than once ...

I never solved my problem with analogue watches, either. I had about 10-12
of them die when they were less than two weeks old, every time. I too,
resorted to a pocket watch for many years.

The digital era resolved that for me. They last an average of four to five
years (batteries, scratches and paint) now.


"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
...
Have not worn a watch for ten years. When I absolutely need one now, I use a
pocket watch. My problems were almost exclusively with analog wrist watches.
Bought a top of the line Timex in the PX at Lackland AFB just before I left
for my next duty station in 1961. It died - forever - on the plane between
San Antonio and Kansas City!

--
If your name is No, I voted for you - more than once ...

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
Sounds more like You are the problem. I used to be that way with watches,

Used to? I've got three watches that all have to be sent in for repair.
Almost $600 spent on these POS and they keep breaking down on me inside
the first year of warranty. I'm not violent with any with with them, don't
bang them on anything and don't drop them. Yet, they keep breaking down on
me.

Please, please tell me how you solved your watch problem? Do you still
wear watches?


I started buying Heuer watches, in 1984. I am wearing that watch this
morning and it is has has been my daily wear watch. I have another "Tag"
Heuer that I got for my 10th wedding anneversary, 20 years ago. My wife
wears one and we gave one to my son when he graduated from college. They
all work.

On 11/10/2010 08:19 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...

"Lobby wrote in message
Sounds more like You are the problem. I used to be that way with watches,

Used to? I've got three watches that all have to be sent in for repair.
Almost $600 spent on these POS and they keep breaking down on me inside
the first year of warranty. I'm not violent with any with with them, don't
bang them on anything and don't drop them. Yet, they keep breaking down on
me.

Please, please tell me how you solved your watch problem? Do you still
wear watches?


I started buying Heuer watches, in 1984. I am wearing that watch this
morning and it is has has been my daily wear watch. I have another "Tag"
Heuer that I got for my 10th wedding anneversary, 20 years ago. My wife
wears one and we gave one to my son when he graduated from college. They
all work.


I picked up a digital Casio waveceptor/tough-solar about 10 years ago
for $40 at Costco. Accurate to a fraction of a second (updates via
radio every night), solar battery powered (never had to change a
battery), shock proof as I've beat the crap out of it and supposedly
waterproof to 200M. Best watch I ever had.

I've been using my Milwaukee for 8 years now - almost 6 in a company
mode. I use it with grind wheels and brushes. It is tough.

I treat it right and it keeps going.

Martin


On 11/8/2010 11:25 AM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Nov 7, 3:14 pm, wrote:
"Ivan wrote

Forgot the link. Sorry.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multifu...ool-67256.html

I bought a Chicago Electric right angle grinder a few years ago. It ran for
about 40 seconds before the armature burned up.

Never again.
--
Jim in NC

I've had much better luck with mine. About five years before the
little half-moon spline thing broke and my neighbor mad me another -
back in business for another five years (of intermittent, of course)
use. If I was a metal worker/had a welding shop, I might not want to
rely upon HFTools. But,, then, I could charge the customers for the
added cost of a more dependable grinder, no?