On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 08:17:42 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Finally had an occasion to use my oscillating tool. Cutting 8"x16"
holes on the underside of my eaves to create ventilation. 36 total!
3/8 inch plywood boxed eaves. Considered skill saw, saber saw, roto-
zip and oscillating tool.
Note: This is all overhead work, approximately 8-11 feet off ground.

Skill saw: While I do own a portable model, I considered it to be too
dangerous to be used upside down and overhead. Also if I make a
template, I could use it only to trace with a pencil and not trace
with the saw. I'd probably end up cutting it to shreds in no time.

They can be tough, but for demo work, they're fine. They're heavy and
buck way too much to be tame enough for following lines precisely.


Saber saw: This would require starting holes in the corners or some
clever plunge cuts. Template could be made to compensate for the shoe
width. Tried this and found it to be heavy and difficult especially
when coming across a rafter. Depth of cut can not be adjusted other
than by cutting off part of the blade.

Less fun when running over the stray rafter, huh?


Roto-Zip: This tool worked nicely. Template has to be made larger
due to the with of the shoe (base). Very agressive, hard to control
overhead and LOTS of sawdust.

Much wider kerfs are like that. Yeah they are.


Multifunction: (MF) THIS WAS THE WINNER!!! Fairly light weight.
Template (Masonite hardboard) with inside cutout exactly 8"x16".
Plunge cut no problem. Used the half-moon "Wood & Drywall" cutter.
Easy to follow template. WILL NOT CUT INTO TEMPLATE, except at the
ends. Method used: Template tucked up against facia board. This
offsets the cut-out 4 inches from the board. Template screwed to eave
facing with two diagonally placed drywall screws. These screw holes
match the holes in the new grill covers. MF tool traces lightly
around the cutout simply scoring at about 1/4 depth of th plywood. MF
tool stops about 1/2 inch short of the corners. Template is removed.
MF tool finishes the cuts at full depth and out to the corners. Grill
is screwed onto the hole (6 screws total) with two of the screws
falling into the existing holes used in the template. Instead of
working from a ladder, I welded a removable hand-rail unto my Kubota
tractor and stood in the bucket with all the tools. Simply drive from
location to location and adjusted the height accordingly.

TOOL PERFORMANCE: Loud, but performed very well. I did 14 holes by
the time the blade wore out. Not bad, considering that it's 48 inches
of cut per hole, for a total of 672 inches, or 56 feet. This would be
equivalent to undercutting about 100± door jambs!! Extremely safe.

I'm happy with the blade life, too. I (mostly) cut notches in PT
tubasixes for decking and railings.


QUESTION: The teeth on the cutter don't have any 'set'. Would this
work better with 'set' teeth? Is 'set' simply to allow saw dust to
get out of the way? Of course, having no 'set' is probably the reason
that the tool does not 'grab' and cut into the template as you slide
it along.

The lack of set has made me a bit ornery at times, too, but I learned
to blow the sawdust out as I cut. I keep forgetting to put a piece of
tubing in the truck for my next job, though. Hmm, this would work,
though. I'll put it out there right now. done

I talked a newb into buying the cheapie at HF the other day, when I
replaced a missing t-bevel (and, what else?) buy some more clamps.
I had a coupon for the 12" quick clamp/spreaders for $1.99.

MFTs RULE!

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck