My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight. Other
Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing a
jigsaw don't wait.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 9/10/10 9:55 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight. Other
Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing a
jigsaw don't wait.

Puckdropper

Oooooo, and I'm in the market.
My B&D is great as cutting jigsaw puzzles, weather you're trying to or
not.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/10/2010 9:55 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight. Other
Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing a
jigsaw don't wait.

Puckdropper

I have that model, and it's a fine little machine. That's a smokin' good deal.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 9/11/2010 12:11 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 9/10/2010 9:55 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
Other
Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about
purchasing a
jigsaw don't wait.

Puckdropper

I have that model, and it's a fine little machine. That's a smokin' good
deal.

If they've got stock--none of the Lowes near me is showing stock.

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
Other
Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing
a
jigsaw don't wait.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

That is a good price the cheapest I have seen it is around $99. But that is
the "combination lock" model. A great saw but the blade change feature is
much more desirable on the later models. Yeah you don't change blades
often... till you use one that changing a blade takes a second or two. Good
find!

On 9/11/2010 7:35 AM, Leon wrote:
"Puckdropper"puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
Other
Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing
a
jigsaw don't wait.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

That is a good price the cheapest I have seen it is around $99. But that is
the "combination lock" model. A great saw but the blade change feature is
much more desirable on the later models. Yeah you don't change blades
often... till you use one that changing a blade takes a second or two. Good
find!

Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
first.

But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?



--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Sep 11, 7:51*am, Swingman wrote:

Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
first.

But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?

I about fell out of my chair laughing when I read that. It honestly
took me a few years of using ONLY that jigsaw to get where I remember
"the combination". And it has the instructions printed on the
machine!

But for the longest time, if I didn't have my readers with me, I was
up against it. I twisted, turned, counted, fussed and cussed getting
those damn blades in the thing.

Excellent tool, though.

Robert

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 9/11/2010 7:35 AM, Leon wrote:
"Puckdropper"puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
Other
Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about
purchasing
a
jigsaw don't wait.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

That is a good price the cheapest I have seen it is around $99. But that
is
the "combination lock" model. A great saw but the blade change feature
is
much more desirable on the later models. Yeah you don't change blades
often... till you use one that changing a blade takes a second or two.
Good
find!

Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
first.

But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?

LOL, That sounded a lot like Red Green.

wrote in message
...
On Sep 11, 7:51 am, Swingman wrote:

Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
first.

But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?

I about fell out of my chair laughing when I read that. It honestly
took me a few years of using ONLY that jigsaw to get where I remember
"the combination". And it has the instructions printed on the
machine!

But for the longest time, if I didn't have my readers with me, I was
up against it. I twisted, turned, counted, fussed and cussed getting
those damn blades in the thing.

Excellent tool, though.

Robert

One of the absolutely worst jig saws I read about and had first hand
experience changing blades on was the DeWalts from 8~10 years ago. You
thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade and won
the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with out the
saw attached to it.

"Upscale" wrote in
:


"Leon" wrote in message
thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade
and
won
the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with
out the saw attached to it.

I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On
some of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar,
I often drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood.
Occasionally, the wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's
hell to get the bit out of the wood without snapping it off.



Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
works about 90% of the time for me.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message news:
Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
works about 90% of the time for me.

Of course, but it's fraught with problems. Tightening a 5 pound drill down
on a 1/16" drill bit while keeping the drill perfectly vertical is
difficult to say the least.

I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like you're
describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck over the
bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to close the
chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will loosen the
rotating bit enough to ease its removal.

Mark

"Upscale" wrote in
:


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message news:
Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
works about 90% of the time for me.

Of course, but it's fraught with problems. Tightening a 5 pound drill
down on a 1/16" drill bit while keeping the drill perfectly vertical
is difficult to say the least. One little fraction of wavering with
the drill snaps the bit off. Don't know if that's ever happened to
you, but it's happened to me more than once. Can't think of a faster
way to blemish a project than trying to retract a tiny drill bit from
a piece of wood.



I can't say I've run in to that problem. Most my woodworking holes are
of the 3/16-1/8" minimum variety, and the model railroading holes are
usually done with a pin vise.

When I do break a 3/16" bit, usually the procedure is to grab vice grips
or the like and just twist and pull it out. If I'm lucky, I can get the
chuck back over the remaining part of the bit and then it's easy.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message news:
Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
works about 90% of the time for me.

Of course, but it's fraught with problems. Tightening a 5 pound drill down
on a 1/16" drill bit while keeping the drill perfectly vertical is
difficult to say the least. One little fraction of wavering with the drill
snaps the bit off. Don't know if that's ever happened to you, but it's
happened to me more than once. Can't think of a faster way to blemish a
project than trying to retract a tiny drill bit from a piece of wood.

Instead of using a drill bit, try grinding the head off of a nail, then
sharpen the point on two sides, opposite each other.

You pretty much can't break it, they are cheap and they work well for a
pilot hole.
--
Jim in NC

"Mark M" wrote in message
I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck
over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to
close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will
loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.

It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the drill's
heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch and the
drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end sharpened
sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one out.

"Mark M" wrote in message
I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck
over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to
close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will
loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.

It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the drill's
heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch and the
drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end sharpened
sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one out.

"Mark M" wrote in message
I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck
over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to
close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will
loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.

It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the drill's
heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch and the
drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end sharpened
sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one out.

"Mark M" wrote in message
I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck
over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to
close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will
loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.

It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the drill's
heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch and the
drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end sharpened
sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one out.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade and
won
the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with out
the saw attached to it.

I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On some
of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar, I often
drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood. Occasionally, the
wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's hell to get the bit out
of the wood without snapping it off.


That's because the flutes get packed with shavings and jam the drill in the
hole. While drilling, pull it out of the hole periodically to clear the
shavings.

On Sep 14, 6:34*am, "CW" wrote:
"Upscale" wrote in message

...



"Leon" wrote in message
thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade and
won
the tug of war. *It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with out
the saw attached to it.

I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On some
of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar, I often
drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood. Occasionally, the
wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's hell to get the bit out
of the wood without snapping it off.

That's because the flutes get packed with shavings and jam the drill in the
hole. While drilling, pull it out of the hole periodically to clear the
shavings.

AKA peck drilling. Keeps thing cooler as well. Drilling in acrylics
teaches one quickly to keep clearing the bit, because if a small bit
jams in a material like Corian, it ain't coming out.

Stuart wrote in
:


That figures.

I hate "keyless" chucks you can never get then as tight as a proper
keyed chuck. Worst invention ever.


I've found the keyless chucks on the better quality drills to be more
than adequate. You don't need to deform the drill bit, just hold it
very securely.

Cheap keyless chucks aren't worth the time.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On Sep 14, 10:13*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Stuart wrote :



That figures.

I hate "keyless" chucks you can never get then as tight as a proper
keyed chuck. Worst invention ever.

I've found the keyless chucks on the better quality drills to be more
than adequate. *You don't need to deform the drill bit, just hold it
very securely.

Cheap keyless chucks aren't worth the time.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

You said a mouthful. A quality keyless chuck is more that adequate. A
****-poor one, and there are many, totally suck canal water and I
would much prefer a keyed chuck in that case. The keyless on my
Milwaukee almost does deform the bit, the one on my Makita, not so
much.

What I have been looking for, is a chuck, keyless or otherwise, which
is mounted on a 1/4" hex shaft so I can pop it in my impact driver
when I need a quick pilot hole of an odd size..... besides, the drills
which come mounted in a 1/4" hex shank, all seem to suck.
Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.

Upscale wrote:


My computer died so I've been busy rebuilding, recovering and
installing Windows 7. Then I bought a Festool TS55 plunge saw, a
CT22 vacuum and a Domino. They've led me to spend quite a deal of
time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an argument
or political discussion in sight. I think the fact that it's a
Festool owned and operated site has much to do with the pleasant
behaviour.

"nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...

--

-Mike-

Upscale wrote:
....
... that it's a Festool owned and operated site has much to do
with the pleasant behaviour.

....

Indeed, cens^h^h^h^hmoderation can have that result... (or
depending on one's pov, I guess...)

--

On Sep 14, 9:00*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Upscale wrote:

My computer died so I've been busy rebuilding, recovering and
installing Windows 7. Then I *bought a Festool TS55 plunge saw, a
CT22 vacuum and a Domino. They've led me to spend quite a deal of
time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an argument
or political discussion in sight. I think the fact that it's a
Festool owned and operated site has much to do with the pleasant
behaviour.

"nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...

It ****ing well is.
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
=0)

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an argument
or political discussion in sight.

"nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...

Well, I used it, you understood its meaning completely so it fulfilled its
function as far as I'm concerned.
However, "Mike Marlow" is not in the dictionary and I don't have a clue what
it means, so your usage of it failed miserably.

Upscale wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an
argument or political discussion in sight.

"nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...

Well, I used it, you understood its meaning completely so it
fulfilled its function as far as I'm concerned.
However, "Mike Marlow" is not in the dictionary and I don't have a
clue what it means, so your usage of it failed miserably.

Damn - I thought is was. Right there in the definition of witty and clever.
We must be using different dictionaries...

--

-Mike-

In article ,
Mike Marlow wrote:
Upscale wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an
argument or political discussion in sight.

"nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...

Well, I used it, you understood its meaning completely so it
fulfilled its function as far as I'm concerned.
However, "Mike Marlow" is not in the dictionary and I don't have a
clue what it means, so your usage of it failed miserably.

Damn - I thought is was. Right there in the definition of witty and clever.

Yeah, _you_ think so. Others have concluded you are half right.

Robatoy wrote:

: What I have been looking for, is a chuck, keyless or otherwise, which
: is mounted on a 1/4" hex shaft so I can pop it in my impact driver
: when I need a quick pilot hole of an odd size..... besides, the drills
: which come mounted in a 1/4" hex shank, all seem to suck.
: Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.


Amazon sells several.

Here's a good one:

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-725405...4831599&sr=8-2

I also have the Makita, which works well, but the Hitachi seems smoother.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-763198-...4831599&sr=8-3

-- Andy Barss

On Sep 18, 1:42*pm, Andrew Barss wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

: What I have been looking for, is a chuck, keyless or otherwise, which
: is mounted on a 1/4" hex shaft so I can pop it in my impact driver
: when I need a quick pilot hole of an odd size..... besides, the drills
: which come mounted in a 1/4" hex shank, all seem to suck.
: Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.

Amazon sells several.

Here's a good one:

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-725405...-Drivers/dp/B0...

I also have the Makita, which works well, but the Hitachi seems smoother.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-763198-...B000O3I5GY/ref...

-- Andy Barss

Thank you kindly, sir.
Seriously. MUCH appreciated.