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Default New table saw - can't change blade

Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


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"gray asphalt" wrote in message
...
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


I would think that the problem is some kind of metal bonding, rust, paint,
etc. I would spray it with WD-40 or something similar. Let it soak
overnight. Then attack it with some kind of pipe over the wrenchs to provide
more leverage. Once it breaks free, you will know better what is happening.

Also, as long as you are going in the right direction, some hammer taps on
the wrench will help move a stubborn nut. Just don't overdo it or go the
wrong direction.



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Default New table saw - can't change blade

Try a little heat on the nut, make help loosen it with some thrmal shock.

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...

"gray asphalt" wrote in message
...
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


I would think that the problem is some kind of metal bonding, rust, paint,
etc. I would spray it with WD-40 or something similar. Let it soak
overnight. Then attack it with some kind of pipe over the wrenchs to provide
more leverage. Once it breaks free, you will know better what is happening.

Also, as long as you are going in the right direction, some hammer taps on
the wrench will help move a stubborn nut. Just don't overdo it or go the
wrong direction.




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Default New table saw - can't change blade


"gray asphalt" wrote in message
...
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?



Always loosen a saw blade arbor nut in the same direction that the blade
spins.


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Default New table saw - can't change blade

Your concern with warranty is valid. Email Ryobi with a detailed
report on the circumstances, with pictures, serial number, etc.
Discuss maintaining the warranty, in case something does break,
during your attempted fix. You want a record of having discussed the
problem with Ryobi, and not just blindside them after the fact. I'm
sure they will be accommodating, no matter if they allow you to
attempt a fix or accept replacing it. Doesn't Home Depot have some
sort of service personell. Get someone from HD to witness any
attempted fix, to support the efforts you report to Ryobi, should
future complications arise.

Any contact with Ryobi is evidence of an existing problem. There's no
doubt a phone number on their paperwork, owners manual, etc. That's
one of the reasons as to what the phone number is for, isn't it.

Sonny


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Default New table saw - can't change blade

On Jun 10, 10:51*am, "gray asphalt" wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


Haven't you ever watched Norm Abrams?

He doesn't change routers bits, he just opens that big drawer with the
15 routers in it and grabs the one with the right bit.

Go buy another table saw with a different blade. ;-)
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Default New table saw - can't change blade

gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


Not unless you do it yourself, no.

More than likely some Borg doofus turned it on w/o having fully
tightened the arbor nut or checking that it wasn't only finger
tight--that'll run one one extremely tightly for sure(+).

But, it won't be tight enough to have stretched the shaft bolt
sufficiently to do any damage, no...

If'en the supplied wrench isn't long enough, use a bigger one or
block the locking one and use a hammer to apply a shock to the nut a la
an impact wrench...

(+)Once upon a time when just a young lad (relatively speaking, of
course ) in a hurry I thought that would be the quick way so did just
hand-tighten and go...well, it wasn't time well saved given the time
required to undo it later... Lesson learned, however...

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Thanks for the new ideas. I'm on my way to Home Depot now.

"Sonny" wrote in message
...
Your concern with warranty is valid. Email Ryobi with a detailed
report on the circumstances, with pictures, serial number, etc.
Discuss maintaining the warranty, in case something does break,
during your attempted fix. You want a record of having discussed the
problem with Ryobi, and not just blindside them after the fact. I'm
sure they will be accommodating, no matter if they allow you to
attempt a fix or accept replacing it. Doesn't Home Depot have some
sort of service personell. Get someone from HD to witness any
attempted fix, to support the efforts you report to Ryobi, should
future complications arise.

Any contact with Ryobi is evidence of an existing problem. There's no
doubt a phone number on their paperwork, owners manual, etc. That's
one of the reasons as to what the phone number is for, isn't it.

Sonny



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Default New table saw - can't change blade

Nix the heat idea, It could weaken the shaft (lose temper) causeing more
serious problems in the future, like a broke shaft with a spinning blade on
it.

Joe M.
"gray asphalt" wrote in message
...
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?




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Default New table saw - can't change blade

On Jun 10, 11:20*am, "Leon" wrote:
"gray asphalt" wrote in message

...

Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


Always loosen a saw blade arbor nut in the same direction that the blade
spins.


So, being a left tilt saw, which this probably is, the threads are not
LH. My right tilt delta is reverse threads, or LH. My jobsite Dewally
is a left tilt and they thread on normally. Hey asphalt, you better
try righty-tighty lefty-loosy before you take it back brother.

RP


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In article , RP wrote:
On Jun 10, 11:20=A0am, "Leon" wrote:
"gray asphalt" wrote in message

...

Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


Always loosen a saw blade arbor nut in the same direction that the blade
spins.


So, being a left tilt saw, which this probably is, the threads are not
LH. My right tilt delta is reverse threads, or LH. My jobsite Dewally
is a left tilt and they thread on normally. Hey asphalt, you better
try righty-tighty lefty-loosy before you take it back brother.


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.
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Default New table saw - can't change blade

On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote:
On Jun 10, 11:20=A0am, wrote:
"gray wrote in message

...

Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?

Always loosen a saw blade arbor nut in the same direction that the blade
spins.


So, being a left tilt saw, which this probably is, the threads are not
LH. My right tilt delta is reverse threads, or LH. My jobsite Dewally
is a left tilt and they thread on normally. Hey asphalt, you better
try righty-tighty lefty-loosy before you take it back brother.


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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Default New table saw - can't change blade

On Jun 10, 6:54*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:





In , *wrote:
On Jun 10, 11:20=A0am, *wrote:
"gray *wrote in message


...


Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


Always loosen a saw blade arbor nut in the same direction that the blade
spins.


So, being a left tilt saw, which this probably is, the threads are not
LH. My right tilt delta is reverse threads, or LH. My jobsite Dewally
is a left tilt and they thread on normally. Hey asphalt, you better
try righty-tighty lefty-loosy before you take it back brother.


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? * :-p

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


What if some idiot put the blade on backwards? What if I'm working on
my saw upside down, backwards? What if only have a LH wrench?

RP
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On 6/10/10 6:11 PM, RP wrote:
Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? :-p


- Show quoted text -


What if some idiot put the blade on backwards? What if I'm working on
my saw upside down, backwards? What if only have a LH wrench?

RP


I hate when I buy a pair of drumstick and they put two left handed
sticks in by mistake.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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Default New table saw - can't change blade


"-MIKE-" wrote

I hate when I buy a pair of drumstick and they put two left handed sticks
in by mistake.

Not to worry.

You should be able to grasp them firmly with your multiple thumbs on each
hand.

rimshot





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"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In
,
wrote:
On Jun 10, 11:20=A0am, wrote:
"gray wrote in message

...

Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?

Always loosen a saw blade arbor nut in the same direction that the
blade
spins.

So, being a left tilt saw, which this probably is, the threads are not
LH. My right tilt delta is reverse threads, or LH. My jobsite Dewally
is a left tilt and they thread on normally. Hey asphalt, you better
try righty-tighty lefty-loosy before you take it back brother.


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the
arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional
arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

The way I remember is to put a wood block under the teeth and turn the
wrench so the teeth meets the wood. Make certain your fingers are out of the
way!!





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gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


Likely no damage done from over-torquing - if it's even over-torqued. Try
putting a bigger wrench on it for more leverage and don't be afraid to put
your butt into it.

--

-Mike-



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Sonny wrote:
Your concern with warranty is valid. Email Ryobi with a detailed
report on the circumstances, with pictures, serial number, etc.
Discuss maintaining the warranty, in case something does break,
during your attempted fix. You want a record of having discussed the
problem with Ryobi, and not just blindside them after the fact. I'm
sure they will be accommodating, no matter if they allow you to
attempt a fix or accept replacing it. Doesn't Home Depot have some
sort of service personell. Get someone from HD to witness any
attempted fix, to support the efforts you report to Ryobi, should
future complications arise.


Nope - Home Depot does not have service personell. You first advice
regarding contacting Ryobi is the best route.


--

-Mike-



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Default New table saw - can't change blade

On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 09:19:42 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Jun 10, 10:51*am, "gray asphalt" wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


Haven't you ever watched Norm Abrams?

He doesn't change routers bits, he just opens that big drawer with the
15 routers in it and grabs the one with the right bit.

Go buy another table saw with a different blade. ;-)


I would, but the drawer is full of routers.
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RP wrote:


What if some idiot put the blade on backwards? What if I'm working on
my saw upside down, backwards? What if only have a LH wrench?


The last question is just pure dumb. Stupid even. Everybody knows that if
you just have a left hand wrench, you use a mirror...

--

-Mike-





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In article , -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? :-p


Doesn't matter -- the teeth still point forward, no?
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On 6/10/10 9:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote:
On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? :-p


Doesn't matter -- the teeth still point forward, no?


I was joking.
First time I changed a blade, and for a long time after that, I used a
thin screwdriver in a gullet. Next saw I got had two wrenches with it,
and I was like, "Oh, so I don't need a screwdriver." :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , -MIKE-
wrote:
On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple
rule: whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you
turn the arbor nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw
teeth as directional arrows showing you which way to turn the
wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? :-p


Doesn't matter -- the teeth still point forward, no?


Whooosh, Doug...

--

-Mike-



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"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the
arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional
arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? :-p



I knew some one would mention that. LOL


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On Jun 10, 7:11*pm, RP wrote:
On Jun 10, 6:54*pm, -MIKE- wrote:





On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:


In , *wrote:
On Jun 10, 11:20=A0am, *wrote:
"gray *wrote in message


...


Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


Always loosen a saw blade arbor nut in the same direction that the blade
spins.


So, being a left tilt saw, which this probably is, the threads are not
LH. My right tilt delta is reverse threads, or LH. My jobsite Dewally
is a left tilt and they thread on normally. Hey asphalt, you better
try righty-tighty lefty-loosy before you take it back brother.


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.


You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.


But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? * :-p


--


* -MIKE-


* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


What if some idiot put the blade on backwards? What if I'm working on
my saw upside down, backwards? What if *only have a LH wrench?

RP- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


"What if some idiot put the blade on backwards?"

Even though I'm a righty, I use a left-handed (blade left) circular
saw (Porter-Cable).

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/pc743.htm

I was working with a guy who builds custom houses. I grabbed his
circular saw and said "WTF"?

He said "Mark a board to be cut and lay the saw on the cut line. Is
the cut line hidden on the other side of the motor, or is it right
there is plain view? No more leaning over the saw to see the cut
line." I was instantly convinced.

So I buy a left handed saw, and go to install a blade. The blade has
all kinds of text one side, including the direction-of-rotation
arrows. I slap the blade on the saw, look at it and then say to
myself "Ya know, that just doesn't look right."

As it turns out, most blades are "printed" for use with right-handed
saws. These have to be mounted "printed side in" on a blade left saw.
I'm glad this "idiot" realized that before I started the cut!




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"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 6/10/10 9:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In
,
wrote:
On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:


Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple
rule:
whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the
arbor
nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional
arrows
showing you which way to turn the wrench.

You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.

But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? :-p


Doesn't matter -- the teeth still point forward, no?


I was joking.
First time I changed a blade, and for a long time after that, I used a
thin screwdriver in a gullet. Next saw I got had two wrenches with it,
and I was like, "Oh, so I don't need a screwdriver." :-)

-MIKE-


That shows you Mike, as you get older you get smarter. WW


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When I realized one of the wrenches kind of slipped into a
slot that held it in place and put a lot of pressure on the other
wrench, it came loose. Thanks for the advice. I was being too
careful and your posts convinced me to give it a real strong
application of pressure.

"gray asphalt" wrote in message
...
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?




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On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 07:51:29 -0700, "gray asphalt"
wrote:

Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?



Put some Liquid Wrench along the nut and give the area a few taps (on
an area that wont be damaged) with a small hammer. I'd call Ryobi
customer support first--their solution is probably best. You may have
a damaged thread.
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Default New table saw - can't change blade

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


I have the same issue except that I change the blade one time and now I can't get the darn thing off. Tried for about 2 hours still no success. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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Default New table saw - can't change blade

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
eb.com...

wrote in
:

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:


Not sure the OP, gray asphalt, is still with us here on the rec... ;~)

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Default New table saw - can't change blade

wrote:
On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


I have the same issue except that I change the blade one time and now I
can't get the darn thing off. Tried for about 2 hours still no success. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


For sure you loosen the arbor nut in the direction that the blade spins.
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Default New table saw - can't change blade

wrote in message
...

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


I have the same issue except that I change the blade one time and now I
can't get the darn thing off. Tried for about 2 hours still no success.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


Got a heat gun? Aim it at the nut and the end of the arbor and let it heat
things up for a while, until you don't want to be leaving your finger on it
for more than a moment. Put your two wrenches on the arbor and the nut,
brace the arbor wrench with the heel of your hand, and tap the nut (in the
correct direction!) with a mallet or a hammer. Use a brass hammer if you've
got one.

Once you've got it off, take a look at the mating face of the nut to see if
it's been galled from over-tightening. If so, touch it with a small flat
file if necessary to take off any proud metal, then flatten it on a piece of
sandpaper or crocus cloth, using the table as the backing surface.
Afterwards, as an occasional maintenance task, give the arbor threads and
maybe the face of the nut a fingertip wipe with some anti-seizing compound.
It's not a lubricant, so you don't need to worry about it causing the nut to
loosen.

Tom






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Default New table saw - can't change blade

On Sat, 3 Jan 2015 10:07:41 -0800, "tdacon"
wrote:

wrote in message
...

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


I have the same issue except that I change the blade one time and now I
can't get the darn thing off. Tried for about 2 hours still no success.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


Got a heat gun? Aim it at the nut and the end of the arbor and let it heat
things up for a while, until you don't want to be leaving your finger on it
for more than a moment. Put your two wrenches on the arbor and the nut,
brace the arbor wrench with the heel of your hand, and tap the nut (in the
correct direction!) with a mallet or a hammer. Use a brass hammer if you've
got one.

Once you've got it off, take a look at the mating face of the nut to see if
it's been galled from over-tightening. If so, touch it with a small flat
file if necessary to take off any proud metal, then flatten it on a piece of
sandpaper or crocus cloth, using the table as the backing surface.
Afterwards, as an occasional maintenance task, give the arbor threads and
maybe the face of the nut a fingertip wipe with some anti-seizing compound.
It's not a lubricant, so you don't need to worry about it causing the nut to
loosen.

Tom



Actually it IS a bit of a lubricant - but I oil my threads and the
nuts still don't come loose.
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Default New table saw - can't change blade

wrote:
On Sat, 3 Jan 2015 10:07:41 -0800, "tdacon"
wrote:

wrote in message
...

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?


I have the same issue except that I change the blade one time and now I
can't get the darn thing off. Tried for about 2 hours still no success.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


Got a heat gun? Aim it at the nut and the end of the arbor and let it heat
things up for a while, until you don't want to be leaving your finger on it
for more than a moment. Put your two wrenches on the arbor and the nut,
brace the arbor wrench with the heel of your hand, and tap the nut (in the
correct direction!) with a mallet or a hammer. Use a brass hammer if you've
got one.

Once you've got it off, take a look at the mating face of the nut to see if
it's been galled from over-tightening. If so, touch it with a small flat
file if necessary to take off any proud metal, then flatten it on a piece of
sandpaper or crocus cloth, using the table as the backing surface.
Afterwards, as an occasional maintenance task, give the arbor threads and
maybe the face of the nut a fingertip wipe with some anti-seizing compound.
It's not a lubricant, so you don't need to worry about it causing the nut to
loosen.

Tom



Actually it IS a bit of a lubricant - but I oil my threads and the
nuts still don't come loose.


You might be applying oil to the wrong place. Are the arbor threads
rusted? You might apply a light film between the arbor nut and flange
washer.
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Default New table saw - can't change blade

On Sat, 03 Jan 2015 14:30:34 -0600, Leon wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 3 Jan 2015 10:07:41 -0800, "tdacon"
wrote:

wrote in message
...

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?

I have the same issue except that I change the blade one time and now I
can't get the darn thing off. Tried for about 2 hours still no success.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Got a heat gun? Aim it at the nut and the end of the arbor and let it heat
things up for a while, until you don't want to be leaving your finger on it
for more than a moment. Put your two wrenches on the arbor and the nut,
brace the arbor wrench with the heel of your hand, and tap the nut (in the
correct direction!) with a mallet or a hammer. Use a brass hammer if you've
got one.

Once you've got it off, take a look at the mating face of the nut to see if
it's been galled from over-tightening. If so, touch it with a small flat
file if necessary to take off any proud metal, then flatten it on a piece of
sandpaper or crocus cloth, using the table as the backing surface.
Afterwards, as an occasional maintenance task, give the arbor threads and
maybe the face of the nut a fingertip wipe with some anti-seizing compound.
It's not a lubricant, so you don't need to worry about it causing the nut to
loosen.

Tom



Actually it IS a bit of a lubricant - but I oil my threads and the
nuts still don't come loose.


You might be applying oil to the wrong place. Are the arbor threads
rusted? You might apply a light film between the arbor nut and flange
washer.

You misunderstood. I said I oil mine all the time and never have a
problem with the nut coming off by itself - and also never have a
problem taking the thing apart when I need to.
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Default New table saw - can't change blade

wrote:
On Sat, 03 Jan 2015 14:30:34 -0600, Leon wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 3 Jan 2015 10:07:41 -0800, "tdacon"
wrote:

wrote in message
...

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:
Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread.
Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty
of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to
return an item this expensive because someone overightened
the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged
anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any
damage done from overtightening in the first place?

I have the same issue except that I change the blade one time and now I
can't get the darn thing off. Tried for about 2 hours still no success.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Got a heat gun? Aim it at the nut and the end of the arbor and let it heat
things up for a while, until you don't want to be leaving your finger on it
for more than a moment. Put your two wrenches on the arbor and the nut,
brace the arbor wrench with the heel of your hand, and tap the nut (in the
correct direction!) with a mallet or a hammer. Use a brass hammer if you've
got one.

Once you've got it off, take a look at the mating face of the nut to see if
it's been galled from over-tightening. If so, touch it with a small flat
file if necessary to take off any proud metal, then flatten it on a piece of
sandpaper or crocus cloth, using the table as the backing surface.
Afterwards, as an occasional maintenance task, give the arbor threads and
maybe the face of the nut a fingertip wipe with some anti-seizing compound.
It's not a lubricant, so you don't need to worry about it causing the nut to
loosen.

Tom



Actually it IS a bit of a lubricant - but I oil my threads and the
nuts still don't come loose.


You might be applying oil to the wrong place. Are the arbor threads
rusted? You might apply a light film between the arbor nut and flange
washer.

You misunderstood. I said I oil mine all the time and never have a
problem with the nut coming off by itself - and also never have a
problem taking the thing apart when I need to.


Gotcha. And you should never have an issue with the nut coming off by
itself, arbor nuts are self tightening with use.
On the flip side of that, I have never oiled the arbor nut on any of my
saws and never had a problem with removing the nuts.
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Leon wrote in
:

Gotcha. And you should never have an issue with the nut coming off by
itself, arbor nuts are self tightening with use.
On the flip side of that, I have never oiled the arbor nut on any of
my saws and never had a problem with removing the nuts.


I would say that's an expected consequence of regular use.
If you routinely remove the nut (to switch from crosscut
to rip or dado set, etc) then corrosion and gunk never
collect on the threads, so they work as intended.

In the OP's case (the post from 2010) I'd guess Ryobi uses
air wrenches in their factory, and likely the nut was crossed
and the assembler just ran it up that way, not being able to
feel it wasn't right.

John
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