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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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How to change the blade on a PPro Table Circular Saw?
Hi,
I have a Performance Pro Sliding cut circular saw. I've tried to follow the instructions for changing the blade ( the default blade is a 40t ripper! ) and I can't get it apart! Does anyone have any hints/tips with this device? Also, what number tooth blade is best to use for neat cuts, cutting softwood ( e.g. pine ) Thanks! Dan |
#2
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In article .com,
Connor T wrote: I have a Performance Pro Sliding cut circular saw. I've tried to follow the instructions for changing the blade ( the default blade is a 40t ripper! ) and I can't get it apart! If it's like my Ryobi it's a reverse thread bolt - i.e. undoes in the opposite way to usual -- Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm [Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005] |
#3
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On 7 Sep 2005 02:34:02 -0700, "Connor T"
wrote: Hi, I have a Performance Pro Sliding cut circular saw. I've tried to follow the instructions for changing the blade ( the default blade is a 40t ripper! ) and I can't get it apart! You could try pushing the blade (with saw unplugged of course) against a scrap of wood held in a vice etc. Idea is to lock the blade from rotating. THen using a second block of wood as a cushion on the spanner, tap the second block with a hammer. Does anyone have any hints/tips with this device? Also, what number tooth blade is best to use for neat cuts, cutting softwood ( e.g. pine ) If you are using the original blade, then usually replacing it with a decent one like a Freud or a CMT will make a huge difference anyway. Watch the overall and hole diameters though. For finer work, a larger number of teeth is normally better. Other things that you can do is to put a second piece of material under the piece to be cut or to put some tape on the underside of the piece. THis should reduce or prevent tearout. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#4
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Excellent many thanks for both replys, i've not had time to take a look
tonight, I'll have a go over the weekend I think. Thanks! Dan Andy Hall wrote: On 7 Sep 2005 02:34:02 -0700, "Connor T" wrote: Hi, I have a Performance Pro Sliding cut circular saw. I've tried to follow the instructions for changing the blade ( the default blade is a 40t ripper! ) and I can't get it apart! You could try pushing the blade (with saw unplugged of course) against a scrap of wood held in a vice etc. Idea is to lock the blade from rotating. THen using a second block of wood as a cushion on the spanner, tap the second block with a hammer. Does anyone have any hints/tips with this device? Also, what number tooth blade is best to use for neat cuts, cutting softwood ( e.g. pine ) If you are using the original blade, then usually replacing it with a decent one like a Freud or a CMT will make a huge difference anyway. Watch the overall and hole diameters though. For finer work, a larger number of teeth is normally better. Other things that you can do is to put a second piece of material under the piece to be cut or to put some tape on the underside of the piece. THis should reduce or prevent tearout. -- .andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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