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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Steel cutting blade in table saw?
I was cutting up some 18 ga sheet with my Tenyru-style blade in my Skil
worm drive saw. The blade was perfect for this: 18 ga is too thick for my cheapo air shears and too slow with a sabre saw. The nuisance was clamping/holding the stock for the cuts. I thought: "This would be so much easier on the table saw". (Especially with the "sled".) I checked the speed on the table saw: 4400 rpm, the blade max is 5800. I'd have to clean out the sawdust first and the metal chips would be a mess. But I can't see any reason why this wouldn't work, or would be a bad idea. Any opinions? Bob |
#2
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Steel cutting blade in table saw?
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I checked the speed on the table saw: 4400 rpm, the blade max is 5800. I'd have to clean out the sawdust first and the metal chips would be a mess. But I can't see any reason why this wouldn't work, or would be a bad idea. Any opinions? I've done mabye 25 cuts of 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/4" angle iron on my Jet contractor table saw and didn't have any problems. I was cross cutting, mitering, and notching the angle iron for a welding bench and some other projects. (I used a Morse Metal Devil blade) It worked great. I don't have a dust collector so that wasn't an issue, but I wouldn't run a dust collector when using the Tenryu. As to a mess, it was very minimal. I did notice that the metal chips embedded themselves in the paint within the cabinet. However, using a masonry cutoff saw in my table saw to rip several dozen firebricks for a new fireplace DID make a huge mess. Had to clean off the gears as the ground refractory bricks gummed up everything. It is good that you are planning on using a sled. I wouldn't recommend cutting thin stuff without a sled as the chance for kickback with sharp metal would be quit scary. With that said, I asked a similar question in this group last summer and was told it was a bad idea... Regards, Aaron |
#3
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Steel cutting blade in table saw?
In article , Bob Engelhardt
wrote: I was cutting up some 18 ga sheet with my Tenyru-style blade in my Skil worm drive saw. The blade was perfect for this: 18 ga is too thick for my cheapo air shears and too slow with a sabre saw. The nuisance was clamping/holding the stock for the cuts. I thought: "This would be so much easier on the table saw". (Especially with the "sled".) I checked the speed on the table saw: 4400 rpm, the blade max is 5800. I'd have to clean out the sawdust first and the metal chips would be a mess. But I can't see any reason why this wouldn't work, or would be a bad idea. Any opinions? Bob Tenryu makes 3 different 7-1/4" Steel pro blades. 38 tooth for cutting up to 1/4" 48 tooth for cutting up to 1/8" 70 tooth for sheet metal. http://www.tenryu.com/Steel%20Pro%20and%20Select.htm |
#4
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Steel cutting blade in table saw?
Aaron Kushner wrote: [about using one in his table saw]
Thank you. That is exactly the kind of reply that is really useful. God bless RCM. Bob |
#5
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Steel cutting blade in table saw?
Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
Tenryu makes 3 different 7-1/4" Steel pro blades.... Actually, mine is a Matsu****a, 7 1/4", 48 tooth. They call it a "stud cutter", for 16 (?) ga and thinner. I'm hoping to cut thicker by being careful. (Not forcing it.) Bob |
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