Link to a good article posted in another newsgroup:

http://www.woodbin.com/misc/drywall_screws.htm

Personally, I'm pretty "old school" and something of a purist, and don't
like to use these other for their intended purpose (securing drywall to
framing), but I'll admit that I've grabbed them and used them a time or
three for other things.

Discussion in other ng was about coarse vs. fine threads: consensus
seems to be that coarse threads are better in wood.

Didja know that the fine-thread screws were originally made for putting
up drywall on metal framing? I didn't.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On 04/13/2010 04:14 PM, David Nebenzahl wrote:
Link to a good article posted in another newsgroup:

http://www.woodbin.com/misc/drywall_screws.htm

Personally, I'm pretty "old school" and something of a purist, and don't
like to use these other for their intended purpose (securing drywall to
framing), but I'll admit that I've grabbed them and used them a time or
three for other things.

Discussion in other ng was about coarse vs. fine threads: consensus
seems to be that coarse threads are better in wood.

Drywall screws are prone to snapping off the heads if torqued too much
in hardwood.

I generally use coarse-thread lo-root assembly screws. They're very
much like drywall screws in that they have sharp threads, but they're
designed for woodworking.

These Robertson-brand screws are good. Far superior to the flooring and
decking screws at the Borg. They also come in self-drilling versions:

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...306,41315&ap=1

These Spax screws are excellent but expensive. They really are easier
to drive:

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...306,41315&ap=1

Chris

David Nebenzahl wrote in
.com:

Link to a good article posted in another newsgroup:

http://www.woodbin.com/misc/drywall_screws.htm

Personally, I'm pretty "old school" and something of a purist, and
don't like to use these other for their intended purpose (securing
drywall to framing), but I'll admit that I've grabbed them and used
them a time or three for other things.

Discussion in other ng was about coarse vs. fine threads: consensus
seems to be that coarse threads are better in wood.

Didja know that the fine-thread screws were originally made for
putting up drywall on metal framing? I didn't.



I use them all the time. They hold extremely well, and I haven't had
one snap on me in a long time. Perhaps it's due to the impact driver
hammering the screw instead of just twisting it. The drywall screw
heads fit the DeWalt #2 Phillips head perfectly, so there's no slippage
when driving them in.

When screwing into plywood, the fine thread screws may work better.
However, when screwing boards together the coarse screws are far
superior to the fine threads. The fine threads strip out extremely
easily, especially in pine.

The guy mentioned that wood screws don't have the threads all the way
up, so they pull the boards together. The simple solution to this is
simply to drill a larger pilot hole. The pilot hole is there to prevent
the wood from splitting, so as long as it's sufficiently smaller than
the screw head it'll still do it's job.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 04/13/2010 05:10 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

For wood working, use S/S coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal
screws along with a 75% of thread OD pilot drill.

I'm curious about your rationale...

1) Why S/S unless it's in a damp location? They're way more expensive
and harder to find.

2) Why sheet metal screws? Aren't they normally threaded the full length?

3) The scientific literature suggests the pilot hole should be 75% of
the root diameter in low density woods and up to 100% of the root
diameter in high density woods. Technically the outer thread diameter
doesn't matter.

Chris

On 04/13/2010 05:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
The pilot hole is there to prevent
the wood from splitting, so as long as it's sufficiently smaller than
the screw head it'll still do it's job.

While that's one reason for it, a suitably sized pilot hole will
actually increase the strength of the joint. A pilot hole that is too
small results in crushed wood fibers which have less structural strength.

Chris

Chris Friesen wrote:
....

2) Why sheet metal screws? Aren't they normally threaded the full length?
....
Why for Lew I don't know but I use them because they have more
aggressive threads and drive much easier than traditional wood screw.

Habit developed before there was nearly as much choice as now.

Still use traditional methods where seems appropriate to do so...

--

On Apr 13, 4:43*pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
On 04/13/2010 05:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

The pilot hole is there to prevent
the wood from splitting, so as long as it's sufficiently smaller than
the screw head it'll still do it's job.

While that's one reason for it, a suitably sized pilot hole will
actually increase the strength of the joint. *A pilot hole that is too
small results in crushed wood fibers which have less structural strength.

Chris

I'm sure there is some sort of sexual joke hanging out there but I'll
just let it pass.

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
Link to a good article posted in another newsgroup:

http://www.woodbin.com/misc/drywall_screws.htm

Personally, I'm pretty "old school" and something of a purist, and don't
like to use these other for their intended purpose (securing drywall to
framing), but I'll admit that I've grabbed them and used them a time or
three for other things.

Discussion in other ng was about coarse vs. fine threads: consensus seems
to be that coarse threads are better in wood.

Didja know that the fine-thread screws were originally made for putting up
drywall on metal framing? I didn't.


Long ago I used dry wall screws but that was back in the early to mid 80's.
I know better now. The number one problem with them is that I typically
build furniture. You won't catch me using anthing less than a #8 screw on
furniture. Secondly you won't find me using any thing but a square drive
screw. I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never seen
a square head dry wall screw although McFeeleys does acutally sell a rather
queer square head dry wall screw.

I maintiain that using dry screw screws for furniture makes about much sense
as using #8 square drive screws for hanging dry wall.

Why?
You want dry wall screws to cam out and slip, you don't want that when
building furniture.

On Apr 13, 8:46*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message

.com...

Link to a good article posted in another newsgroup:

http://www.woodbin.com/misc/drywall_screws.htm

Personally, I'm pretty "old school" and something of a purist, and don't
like to use these other for their intended purpose (securing drywall to
framing), but I'll admit that I've grabbed them and used them a time or
three for other things.

Discussion in other ng was about coarse vs. fine threads: consensus seems
to be that coarse threads are better in wood.

Didja know that the fine-thread screws were originally made for putting up
drywall on metal framing? I didn't.

Long ago I used dry wall screws but that was back in the early to mid 80's.
I know better now. *The number one problem with them is that I typically
build furniture. *You won't catch me using anthing less than a #8 screw on
furniture. *Secondly you won't find me using any thing but a square drive
screw. *I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never seen
a square head dry wall screw although McFeeleys does acutally sell a rather
queer square head dry wall screw.

I maintiain that using dry screw screws for furniture makes about much sense
as using #8 square drive screws for hanging dry wall.

Why?
You want dry wall screws to cam out and slip, you don't want that when
building furniture.

Then there is the issue of the bugle head vs the proper countersink-
head. A drywall screw is just wrong in wood.

On Apr 13, 8:46*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message

.com...

Link to a good article posted in another newsgroup:

http://www.woodbin.com/misc/drywall_screws.htm

Personally, I'm pretty "old school" and something of a purist, and don't
like to use these other for their intended purpose (securing drywall to
framing), but I'll admit that I've grabbed them and used them a time or
three for other things.

Discussion in other ng was about coarse vs. fine threads: consensus seems
to be that coarse threads are better in wood.

Didja know that the fine-thread screws were originally made for putting up
drywall on metal framing? I didn't.

Long ago I used dry wall screws but that was back in the early to mid 80's.
I know better now. *The number one problem with them is that I typically
build furniture. *You won't catch me using anthing less than a #8 screw on
furniture. *Secondly you won't find me using any thing but a square drive
screw. *I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never seen
a square head dry wall screw although McFeeleys does acutally sell a rather
queer square head dry wall screw.

I maintiain that using dry screw screws for furniture makes about much sense
as using #8 square drive screws for hanging dry wall.

Why?
You want dry wall screws to cam out and slip, you don't want that when
building furniture.

"I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never
seen a square head dry wall screw ..."

Check out the screws on this page, especially the last row.

http://www.drillspot.com/hardware-an...-drive-coarse/

The first item on the last row is listed as # 8 and I think the last 2
items (which read 8") are typos and actually may be # 8's.

On 04/15/2010 12:28 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Apr 13, 8:46 pm, "Leon" wrote:

"I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never
seen a square head dry wall screw ..."

Check out the screws on this page, especially the last row.

http://www.drillspot.com/hardware-an...-drive-coarse/

Those are not actually drywall screws. They don't have a bugle head and
so would not hold the drywall paper very well.

If you look up "hillman fasteners 41907" and read the description,
they're actually square drive trim screws.

Chris

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Apr 13, 8:46 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message

.com...

Link to a good article posted in another newsgroup:

http://www.woodbin.com/misc/drywall_screws.htm

Personally, I'm pretty "old school" and something of a purist, and don't
like to use these other for their intended purpose (securing drywall to
framing), but I'll admit that I've grabbed them and used them a time or
three for other things.

Discussion in other ng was about coarse vs. fine threads: consensus
seems
to be that coarse threads are better in wood.

Didja know that the fine-thread screws were originally made for putting
up
drywall on metal framing? I didn't.

Long ago I used dry wall screws but that was back in the early to mid
80's.
I know better now. The number one problem with them is that I typically
build furniture. You won't catch me using anthing less than a #8 screw on
furniture. Secondly you won't find me using any thing but a square drive
screw. I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never seen
a square head dry wall screw although McFeeleys does acutally sell a
rather
queer square head dry wall screw.

I maintiain that using dry screw screws for furniture makes about much
sense
as using #8 square drive screws for hanging dry wall.

Why?
You want dry wall screws to cam out and slip, you don't want that when
building furniture.

"I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never
seen a square head dry wall screw ..."

Check out the screws on this page, especially the last row.

http://www.drillspot.com/hardware-an...-drive-coarse/

The first item on the last row is listed as # 8 and I think the last 2
items (which read 8") are typos and actually may be # 8's.

I think if a bag of candy was shown in that goup of screws it too would be
called a dry wall screw.

"Leon" wrote in message
news

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Apr 13, 8:46 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message

.com...

Link to a good article posted in another newsgroup:

http://www.woodbin.com/misc/drywall_screws.htm

Personally, I'm pretty "old school" and something of a purist, and
don't
like to use these other for their intended purpose (securing drywall to
framing), but I'll admit that I've grabbed them and used them a time or
three for other things.

Discussion in other ng was about coarse vs. fine threads: consensus
seems
to be that coarse threads are better in wood.

Didja know that the fine-thread screws were originally made for putting
up
drywall on metal framing? I didn't.

Long ago I used dry wall screws but that was back in the early to mid
80's.
I know better now. The number one problem with them is that I typically
build furniture. You won't catch me using anthing less than a #8 screw on
furniture. Secondly you won't find me using any thing but a square drive
screw. I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never
seen
a square head dry wall screw although McFeeleys does acutally sell a
rather
queer square head dry wall screw.

I maintiain that using dry screw screws for furniture makes about much
sense
as using #8 square drive screws for hanging dry wall.

Why?
You want dry wall screws to cam out and slip, you don't want that when
building furniture.

"I have never seen a #8 or larger dry wall screw and have never
seen a square head dry wall screw ..."

Check out the screws on this page, especially the last row.

http://www.drillspot.com/hardware-an...-drive-coarse/

The first item on the last row is listed as # 8 and I think the last 2
items (which read 8") are typos and actually may be # 8's.

The first one says it's a trim screw - on the item page.


I think if a bag of candy was shown in that goup of screws it too would be
called a dry wall screw.