Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my shop
tools.

The "big iron" items are pretty well taken care of (Thanks again, Leon!!!!),
but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or two) storage of the
smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal hand tools, squares, planes,
blades, chisels, etc. that I'm interested in.

Besides the usual desiccants, etc ... has anyone had any _firsthand_
experience/success with the impregnated rust/corrosion inhibitors in a form
that you can use in boxes to alleviate rusting, similar to these?:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=51&ap=3

How well did they work? How much do you need? Is there something, or a
combination of methods, that works better? Do they work better in airtight
containers? What you would have done different, etc ...

I figure some of you guys who went through Katrina/Rita on the Gulf Coast
may have "BTDT", so thanks in advance for any _firsthand_ experience in long
term (one to two year) storing of items like these.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote

Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my
shop tools.

The "big iron" items are pretty well taken care of (Thanks again,
Leon!!!!), but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or two)
storage of the smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal hand tools,
squares, planes, blades, chisels, etc. that I'm interested in.

Besides the usual desiccants, etc ... has anyone had any _firsthand_
experience/success with the impregnated rust/corrosion inhibitors in a
form that you can use in boxes to alleviate rusting, similar to these?:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=51&ap=3

How well did they work? How much do you need? Is there something, or a
combination of methods, that works better? Do they work better in airtight
containers? What you would have done different, etc ...

I figure some of you guys who went through Katrina/Rita on the Gulf Coast
may have "BTDT", so thanks in advance for any _firsthand_ experience in
long term (one to two year) storing of items like these.

Getting ready to move to a simpler State/time?

Why not just dip them in motor oil and put them in plastic zip-top
bags? As long as the bags are in a box or something so that friction
won't let the bits cut through the bags...

Or buy some of that rubbery goo they coat new router bits with, if you
can find it.

"Swingman" wrote:

The "big iron" items are pretty well taken care of (Thanks again,
Leon!!!!), but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or
two) storage of the smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal
hand tools, squares, planes, blades, chisels, etc. that I'm
interested in.

Contct a bit manufacturer or a saw sharpening service and find out
what they use for the soft plastic protective coating.

My sharpening service has a dip tank.

Maybe you could contract with a local source to dip your stuff.

Lew

Nothing specifically on the direct question, sorry, but I had similar
thoughts as have already been posited.

I'd only remind the obvious that the storage environment would make a
huge difference if at all possible to get at least minimal climate
control would be good...(maybe could rent bomb bay space in one of the
stored relics of the Air Force in AZ? )

--

On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 12:12:00 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my shop
tools.

The "big iron" items are pretty well taken care of (Thanks again, Leon!!!!),
but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or two) storage of the
smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal hand tools, squares, planes,
blades, chisels, etc. that I'm interested in.

Besides the usual desiccants, etc ... has anyone had any _firsthand_
experience/success with the impregnated rust/corrosion inhibitors in a form
that you can use in boxes to alleviate rusting, similar to these?:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=51&ap=3

How well did they work? How much do you need? Is there something, or a
combination of methods, that works better? Do they work better in airtight
containers? What you would have done different, etc ...

I figure some of you guys who went through Katrina/Rita on the Gulf Coast
may have "BTDT", so thanks in advance for any _firsthand_ experience in long
term (one to two year) storing of items like these.


A number of years ago, I was engaged in a study to determine what
prevented corrosion on the tops of table saws most effectively for
shipping and storage. So I partnered with a supplier of vapor paper
and sent about 25 samples to the humidity chamber. Various
combinations of solutions, greases, mikelman coated corrugated, wood
(to test its propensity to work through the other stuff and corrode,
i.e. pallets stacked several high) and vapor paper.

As it turned out, vapor paper by itself worked the best. We continued
to put a light grease, but only to hold the paper on while packing off
the unit.

It works by emmitting a vapor as opposed to collecting the water from
the air or providing a barrier. I'm not sure where you can get it,
it was a wholesale item for us.

So I packed off my "special Unisaw" with paper on the top and paper
wadded up in the body of the saw. It was doing fine in a very humid
climate, however, I can attest to the fact that it did not stand up to
being submerged in seven feet of brackish water and then not tended to
for several weeks after Katrina.

Frank

Easiest of all..........send them to me and I'll take care of thembig grin



"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my
shop tools.

The "big iron" items are pretty well taken care of (Thanks again,
Leon!!!!), but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or two)
storage of the smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal hand tools,
squares, planes, blades, chisels, etc. that I'm interested in.

Besides the usual desiccants, etc ... has anyone had any _firsthand_
experience/success with the impregnated rust/corrosion inhibitors in a
form that you can use in boxes to alleviate rusting, similar to these?:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=51&ap=3

How well did they work? How much do you need? Is there something, or a
combination of methods, that works better? Do they work better in airtight
containers? What you would have done different, etc ...

I figure some of you guys who went through Katrina/Rita on the Gulf Coast
may have "BTDT", so thanks in advance for any _firsthand_ experience in
long term (one to two year) storing of items like these.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of
my shop tools.

The "big iron" items are pretty well taken care of (Thanks again,
Leon!!!!), but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or
two) storage of the smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal
hand tools, squares, planes, blades, chisels, etc. that I'm
interested in.
Besides the usual desiccants, etc ... has anyone had any _firsthand_
experience/success with the impregnated rust/corrosion inhibitors in
a form that you can use in boxes to alleviate rusting, similar to
these?:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=51&ap=3

How well did they work? How much do you need? Is there something, or a
combination of methods, that works better? Do they work better in
airtight containers? What you would have done different, etc ...

I figure some of you guys who went through Katrina/Rita on the Gulf
Coast may have "BTDT", so thanks in advance for any _firsthand_
experience in long term (one to two year) storing of items like these.

Cosmoline?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Swingman wrote:

Besides the usual desiccants, etc ... has anyone had any _firsthand_
experience/success with the impregnated rust/corrosion inhibitors in a form
that you can use in boxes to alleviate rusting, similar to these?:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=51&ap=3

How well did they work? How much do you need? Is there something, or a
combination of methods, that works better? Do they work better in airtight
containers? What you would have done different, etc ...

I don't have any firsthand experience with long-term storage, but coming
from a physics background it seems apparent that anything that works by
emitting rust-preventing vapour or absorbing humidity would work best in
airtight containers.

One relatively cheap source of silica gel crystals is certain kinds of
cat litter. We use it for our cat. I'm still looking for a cheap
industrial source, but even at retail prices it's a whole lot cheaper
than buying "flower drying crystals" or "Silica Gel Dehumidifiers".

Also, Boeshield T-9 got top marks in Wood magazine's rust-prevention
test. (Available on their website at
http://www.boeshieldcanada.com/wood.pdf)

If you sprayed the tools down with a thickish coat and just let it set
without wiping, it would probably help.

Chris

wrote:

Cosmoline?

I think that is off the market.


Cosmolene is very definitely available.

Very effective, just messy clean up.

Lew

DJ Delorie wrote:
Why not just dip them in motor oil and put them in plastic zip-top
bags? As long as the bags are in a box or something so that
friction
won't let the bits cut through the bags...

Or buy some of that rubbery goo they coat new router bits with, if
you
can find it.

Cosmoline
http://www.mil-specproducts.com/cosm...FQpxHgoddxL_iA
and VCI wrap
http://www.uline.com/BL_5250/VCI-Ant...?pricode=WO442 is the
"traditional" way to do it.

The paper's got enough body that a few wraps should keep cutting edges
on router bits and the like separated.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

My favorite is LPS-3, hands down for storage in a damp non-heated shed
over many years.

Pete Stanaitis

Swingman wrote:
Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my shop
tools.

The "big iron" items are pretty well taken care of (Thanks again, Leon!!!!),
but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or two) storage of the
smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal hand tools, squares, planes,
blades, chisels, etc. that I'm interested in.

Besides the usual desiccants, etc ... has anyone had any _firsthand_
experience/success with the impregnated rust/corrosion inhibitors in a form
that you can use in boxes to alleviate rusting, similar to these?:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=51&ap=3

How well did they work? How much do you need? Is there something, or a
combination of methods, that works better? Do they work better in airtight
containers? What you would have done different, etc ...

I figure some of you guys who went through Katrina/Rita on the Gulf Coast
may have "BTDT", so thanks in advance for any _firsthand_ experience in long
term (one to two year) storing of items like these.

Swingman wrote:
Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my shop
tools.

[snip]

The humidity at my house is usually around 20-25%. Just send them to me
and I will take care of your problem. :-)
hopefully yours,
jo4hn

"Swingman" wrote in message
but it is the successful, relatively long term (year or two) storage of
the
smaller, boxed items, like router bits, metal hand tools, squares, planes,
blades, chisels, etc. that I'm interested in.

May I inquire as to why you need to store all your tools?

Reminds me of when I put most of my big tools (table saw, router, work bench
ect.) into public storage in 1994. At the rental rate of $100 a month, it
wasn't until four years later that I emptied the rental storage just to get
out from under the cost. I spent nearly $5000 on that storage rental,
frequently thinking about what my father once told me. "You don't sell your
tools" he said. With what I spent on rental costs holding onto those tools,
I could have bought similar new tools twice over. What a waste!

"Frank Boettcher" wrote

It works by emmitting a vapor as opposed to collecting the water from
the air or providing a barrier. I'm not sure where you can get it,
it was a wholesale item for us.

Lesson learned ... the hard way. Thanks for the first hand experience, hard
to come by, apparently even when specifically requested.

So I packed off my "special Unisaw" with paper on the top and paper
wadded up in the body of the saw. It was doing fine in a very humid
climate, however, I can attest to the fact that it did not stand up to
being submerged in seven feet of brackish water and then not tended to
for several weeks after Katrina.

Feel your pain, but I hope it doesn't come to that!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Upscale" wrote

May I inquire as to why you need to store all your tools?

In a word, "subsidence", with the attendant flood waters during heavy rains,
due to the proximity of new construction, and with regard to drainage of
same, something not unheard of in urban areas on the Gulf Coast.

The shop building itself is 60 years old, in a neighborhood of that age, but
with upscale houses of newer vintage, and I have contributed to the problem
myself, to some financial advantage, so pity is most definitely unwarranted.

Reminds me of when I put most of my big tools (table saw, router, work
bench
ect.) into public storage in 1994. At the rental rate of $100 a month, it
wasn't until four years later that I emptied the rental storage just to
get
out from under the cost. I spent nearly $5000 on that storage rental,
frequently thinking about what my father once told me. "You don't sell
your
tools" he said. With what I spent on rental costs holding onto those
tools,
I could have bought similar new tools twice over. What a waste!

Storage costs thus far are twice that ... you may have a point, except that,
like your Dad, I will NOT sell my tools (only death will us part)

And mainly because I'm convinced that "Made in China" is, indeed, a WARNING
LABEL!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"jo4hn" wrote
Swingman wrote:
Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my
shop tools.
[snip]

The humidity at my house is usually around 20-25%. Just send them to me
and I will take care of your problem. :-)
hopefully yours,

LOL ... yabbut, what about heat from the CA fires? Frying pan into the fire,
eh?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
"jo4hn" wrote
Swingman wrote:
Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of my
shop tools.
[snip]
The humidity at my house is usually around 20-25%. Just send them to me
and I will take care of your problem. :-)
hopefully yours,

LOL ... yabbut, what about heat from the CA fires? Frying pan into the fire,
eh?

But the fires drive down the humidity even more. Win win. Right? :-)

MANY years ago when working along the coast, we had a simple solution
for rust problems with small items. Before we knew it as being a ****
poor joke on homeowners, we used Water Displacement Formula 40 for its
intended purpose.

For those not familiar with the Gulf coast area, there are weeks where
it will rain EVERY day... at least a little... and then still curse
you with high humidity. Your high carbon tools will actually get a
fine coat of rust in a few hours there.

An open truck tool box (helpers), or the tools strung out on the job
when you get a quick shower made our tools rust like hell.

We started to wrap up our tools in towels we swiped from the hotels we
stayed in that were well sprayed with WD 40. In those towels, they
could be rained on and not rust. So we started putting any tools we
weren't using in the towels, giving them a quick spritz, and putting
them in the tool box.

Then we started to spray the open boxes of nails, and that killed the
rust problem on those as well.

FWIW, I had a bunch of hand tools (chisels, squares, dull drill bits
that I have intended to sharpen for several years, etc.) that were
older, less sturdy, and not "favorites" of mine that I put in a large
truck tool box that I pulled off an old work truck. I did the same
wrap, and just opened the box and sprayed the towels every six months
or so and never had a spot of rust. They stayed in there for about 4
years until I sold the box and most of the stuff in it. Others have
done this as well with great success. It seems the key to though, it
to make sure you put the items and towels/rags in a container that is
pretty well sealed to keep the WD40 from flashing off.

Our average humidity is not so far off Houston as you might think.
Our average morning humidity is 83%.

Just a low tech answer. I have no experience with those emitter
gizmos. As always, YMMV.

Hope you don't have the tools put up long.

Robert

jo4hn wrote in
m:

Swingman wrote:
"jo4hn" wrote
Swingman wrote:
Unfortunately, I find it necessary to pack up/store the majority of
my shop tools.
[snip]
The humidity at my house is usually around 20-25%. Just send them
to me and I will take care of your problem. :-)
hopefully yours,

LOL ... yabbut, what about heat from the CA fires? Frying pan into
the fire, eh?

But the fires drive down the humidity even more. Win win. Right? :-)


Just don't send any of those fine wooden handled tools over there...

Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

wrote:
....

Can you point to a source where I can buy some?

google is your friend...if you're not just looking for an argument


http://www.schafco.com/cosmoline.asp
http://www.mil-specproducts.com/cosm...FRfAQAodrGNW4Q

Since now it is a class that matches a Mil-Spec (whose number I don't
recall), there are a variety of products that can qualify as well as the
original...

--

wrote:

Can you point to a source where I can buy some?

google Cosmolene

I found several

Lew

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 15:26:34 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

wrote:

Can you point to a source where I can buy some?
google Cosmolene

I found several

Lew


Really? I just tried Google. Found many discussions about how to
remove it, and some dead links to places that USED to have it.

I think my original belief was correct. The cosmolene name still
exists,and they have new products with that familiar name on them, but
the stuff they used many years ago, that was called cosmolene, was
taken off the market because it contained carcinogens.

I also think, after seeing many of those google results, that many
people call any rustproof coating "cosmolene", regardless of what it
really is.

It would undoubtedly help if you spelled it correctly. Anything that
meets the Mil-Spec that described the WW-II stuff is close enough.

As I suspected, you're just itchin' as typical...

--

I have a 20 lbs jar of cosmoline that I want to sell.

i

On 2008-09-25, dpb wrote:
wrote:
On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 15:26:34 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

wrote:

Can you point to a source where I can buy some?
google Cosmolene

I found several

Lew


Really? I just tried Google. Found many discussions about how to
remove it, and some dead links to places that USED to have it.

I think my original belief was correct. The cosmolene name still
exists,and they have new products with that familiar name on them, but
the stuff they used many years ago, that was called cosmolene, was
taken off the market because it contained carcinogens.

I also think, after seeing many of those google results, that many
people call any rustproof coating "cosmolene", regardless of what it
really is.

It would undoubtedly help if you spelled it correctly. Anything that
meets the Mil-Spec that described the WW-II stuff is close enough.

As I suspected, you're just itchin' as typical...




--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 13:20:59 -0500, dpb wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 15:26:34 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

wrote:

Can you point to a source where I can buy some?
google Cosmolene

I found several

Lew

Really? I just tried Google. Found many discussions about how to
remove it, and some dead links to places that USED to have it.

I think my original belief was correct. The cosmolene name still
exists,and they have new products with that familiar name on them, but
the stuff they used many years ago, that was called cosmolene, was
taken off the market because it contained carcinogens.

I also think, after seeing many of those google results, that many
people call any rustproof coating "cosmolene", regardless of what it
really is.
It would undoubtedly help if you spelled it correctly. Anything that
meets the Mil-Spec that described the WW-II stuff is close enough.

As I suspected, you're just itchin' as typical...

It was sugested to google "cosmolene", by Lew Hodgett. That's what I
did. Perhaps your argument should be with him.

The cosmolene I am familiar with, came in blocks that you melted
before use. I can't seem to find anyting remotely like that despite
your rude protestations.


One of the links I posted references it if you'd look some...

--

"Ignoramus23784" wrote in message
I have a 20 lbs jar of cosmoline that I want to sell.

20 lbs? Thirty year supply?

wrote:
....
If you were sincere, rather than trolling and trying to start an
argument, you would simply provide a link.

You didn't say what you wanted, specifically (and can't imagine why one
would want the old form anyway).

I previously posted two, at least one of which has onsite links to
alternate formulations including the solid.

It didn't take long, but I'm not doing it again for you, sorry.

--

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 15:26:34 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


wrote:

Can you point to a source where I can buy some?

google Cosmolene

I found several

Lew


Really? I just tried Google. Found many discussions about how to
remove it, and some dead links to places that USED to have it.

If you spell it properly you'll find numerous sources.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=cosmoline&aq=f&oq=

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 14:41:54 -0500, dpb wrote:

wrote:
...
If you were sincere, rather than trolling and trying to start an
argument, you would simply provide a link.

You didn't say what you wanted, specifically (and can't imagine why one
would want the old form anyway).

I previously posted two, at least one of which has onsite links to
alternate formulations including the solid.

It didn't take long, but I'm not doing it again for you, sorry.

Troll admission noted.

On 2008-09-25, Upscale wrote:

"Ignoramus23784" wrote in message
I have a 20 lbs jar of cosmoline that I want to sell.

20 lbs? Thirty year supply?


Depending on how many toys you want to protect...

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 14:41:54 -0500, dpb wrote:

wrote:
...
If you were sincere, rather than trolling and trying to start an
argument, you would simply provide a link.
You didn't say what you wanted, specifically (and can't imagine why one
would want the old form anyway).

I previously posted two, at least one of which has onsite links to
alternate formulations including the solid.

It didn't take long, but I'm not doing it again for you, sorry.

Troll admission noted.

Look, ahole, there's a direct link on the front page to the solid wax
form from one of the two links I previously posted. If you can't do
that much effort on your own instead of bitching, I'm damned if I'm
going to do it for you...

plonk...

--

wrote:




It was sugested to google "cosmolene", by Lew Hodgett. That's what I
did. Perhaps your argument should be with him.

The cosmolene I am familiar with, came in blocks that you melted
before use. I can't seem to find anyting remotely like that despite
your rude protestations.


Try cosmoline with an "I".

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 16:21:11 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 15:26:34 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


wrote:

Can you point to a source where I can buy some?

google Cosmolene

I found several

Lew


Really? I just tried Google. Found many discussions about how to
remove it, and some dead links to places that USED to have it.

If you spell it properly you'll find numerous sources.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=cosmoline&aq=f&oq=

I still haven't found the familiar bricks of old, regardless of
spelling. Both spellings get a huge number of hits. As I thought
initially, it appears to be a thing of the past.

wrote:

Really? I just tried Google. Found many discussions about how to
remove it, and some dead links to places that USED to have it.

Got many hits, wouldn't use the stuff on a bet, so didn't pursue it.

Lew

On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 16:41:42 -0500, dpb wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 14:41:54 -0500, dpb wrote:

wrote:
...
If you were sincere, rather than trolling and trying to start an
argument, you would simply provide a link.
You didn't say what you wanted, specifically (and can't imagine why one
would want the old form anyway).

I previously posted two, at least one of which has onsite links to
alternate formulations including the solid.

It didn't take long, but I'm not doing it again for you, sorry.

Troll admission noted.

Look, ahole, there's a direct link on the front page to the solid wax
form from one of the two links I previously posted. If you can't do
that much effort on your own instead of bitching, I'm damned if I'm
going to do it for you...

plonk...

Gee. Thanks for your wonderful contribution to an otherwise okay
thread.

On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 22:15:39 GMT, Nova wrote:

wrote:




It was sugested to google "cosmolene", by Lew Hodgett. That's what I
did. Perhaps your argument should be with him.

The cosmolene I am familiar with, came in blocks that you melted
before use. I can't seem to find anyting remotely like that despite
your rude protestations.


Try cosmoline with an "I".

Thanks, I've tried both and both get a ton of hits. I guess it depends
on whether you feel its a derivative of gasoLINE, or keroSENE.

wrote:
....
Gee. Thanks for your wonderful contribution to an otherwise okay
thread.

Well, gee, let's recap...

I provided you two links to what you were looking for, at least one of
those has another link boldly shown on the page to another item you only
belatedly indicated you were interested in...

Doesn't seem like my contributions were particularly shabby at all to me...

--